My photography work

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AMFCP

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18
Edit My Images
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DSC_0092.jpg

1. Central Park, NY, USA (New York)

Trade_Center_NY.jpg

2. Trade Center, NY, USA
Houses_Of_Parliament.jpg

3. Houses of Parliament, London, United Kingdom
Piccadilly_Circus.jpg

4. Piccadilly Circus, London, United Kingdom
St_Pauls.jpg

5. St Paul's Cathedral, London, United Kingdom
Trafalgar_Square.jpg

6. Trafalgar Square, London, United Kingdom
Masada.jpg

7. Masada, Judea, Israel

Tell What you think of Them?
 
Thanks for posting.

If I'm honest, these look like casual snapshots of places you've been to and not 'photographs'. They are lacking any real focal point or engaging subject. For example, the photo of Piccadilly Circus - I work in London and probably have that exact shot on my phone - as has everyone else who has walked past it. I wouldn't showcase it as an example of my work though.

The Trafalgar Square shot - again, what's the story or subject of the photo? It just looks like every other tourist snapshot to me.

Also, don't try and make your photos more interesting by adding effects on them. The orange hue on them, and in particular the World Trade Centre edit don't help the photos.

With the Israel shot, remember that black & white means just that - black and white, not grey. There needs to be much more contrast in that shot as there are too many mid tone greys. There should be stronger blacks and brighter highlights.

Try not to shoot just a general 'scene', unless it's particularly dramatic or impressive. Think about what it is you're photographing and look to make it more interesting. And look online or on YouTube at some landscape editing tutorials for techniques and styles which work best on theses types of shots.

Hope that helps.
 
I have looked on YouTube as I was doing some research and I have found out that people are using Lightroom. Is it better than what I am using which is Photoshop?
 
Ok
If it is possible look at a comparison photo fore which I did last Thursday in Islington.
old.jpg

And if you look at the 'After' photo fore which I did
23st7cn.jpg


And if you look at the difference, I have regained the colour that was lost and make it more brighter

Do you think that I may have improved?
And I did use Lightroom instead of Photoshop
 
It looks over saturated to me.

To be honest as Oliver said, it seems like you're lacking a focus or reason for the photos. Anybody can take a photo like that with their phone and change some effects. Have a look at the landscape section and see what other people are doing in urban environments.

Obviously you've posted these in photos for pleasure so I'm not saying they should be up to the standard of the best landscape images posted on this forum, but the section may help you get an idea of what to photograph. These do seem like just snapshots that any tourist would take. Sorry.
 
Sorry I didn't mean it to sound harsh and I know you're trying and we all have to start somewhere. Unfortunately I only shoot wildlife so I don't really have any further advice rather than check what people are doing in the landscape section (as there's an urban section there too). What is your aim? To take a picture of what you see, just for fun? If so then you're doing nothing wrong :) if you want something better you need to think more about your subject matter.

Regarding the oversaturation, are you using a decent monitor? Even here on my phone I can tell you've gone way over the top, look at the reds and blues on the front boat.
 
Well have a look at the last one here:
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/a-few-from-london-last-night.615712/

The couple at the front add a nice touch, the path is leading away and the lighting is quite nice. Trouble is, with photography, lighting is everything. Maybe what you're lacking is good light. Looking at the Islington one, the light is very dull and flat. You need some nice light such as at sunrise or sunset. That will definitely help.

As i say I only shoot wildlife so I can't help with these kinds of things as my subject is generally the animal or bird that's sitting there.
 
Hi AMFCP (whats your name? :))

On that last image, you could have waited until a canal boat came through the tunnel under the bridge and zoomed in - that would have made for an interesting shot, containing a canal boat, the arches and reflection - makes it more interesting :) or if there were no traffic, usually a dog walker will let their dog jump in the canal, a shot like that makes it interesting also. Just dont photograph a scene for the sake of it. Wait a few minutes, soak in the scene and think about what you want to get out of the image before clicking the shutter.

Agree about the processing - just do some basic work to your images, I promise in years to come you will look back and think "why did I go doing all of that to my photos" - promise you :)

Just some contrast, adjust exposure if its over or under exposed, lift shadows if necessary - shoot RAW as Photoshop utilises Camera RAW to allow you to manipulate lots of things before it even gets into Photoshop. Most of my work is now done in camera raw, the only work I tend to do in Photoshop is remove dust spots, clean up the image (remove any rubbish or birds if it distracts) and crop. I also do my B&W stuff in Photoshop as well, but 90% of the work can be done before it even goes into Photoshop. Of course, the more you get right in-camera, the less time you're stuck in front of a computer adjusting the image to get it the way you want it to look.

Also, use the straighten tool in Camera Raw or Photoshop, find a horizontal line (building roof, ledge, horizon) and straighten your image from that.

Have fun (y) (y)
 
Oliver Pohlmann said:
remember that black & white means just that - black and white, not grey.
Click to expand...
•


This statement shows the misunderstanding of tonal range
recording and rendition.

Of the 256 bits recorded by every pixel, 255 are recording light
or a shade of grey. 000/255 being black, 001/255 to 254/255
are greys and 255/255 white.

So, one black, one white and 254 greys! B&W photography
is mostly "SHADES OF GREY PHOTOGRAPHY"
 
@htid
So let me get this straight

Find Good Light between Sunrise & Sunset
------------------------------------------------------------------
@Carlh
My Name is Alexander
Yes I could have waited and zoomed it for a start.
2nd. Do you think I could have adjusted the contrast on my camera before shooting?
3rd. I did shoot RAW
4th. I'll make sure to clean up the image next time and straighten it also
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Kodiak Qc said:
•


This statement shows the misunderstanding of tonal range
recording and rendition.

Of the 256 bits recorded by every pixel, 255 are recording light
or a shade of grey. 000/255 being black, 001/255 to 254/255
are greys and 255/255 white.

So, one black, one white and 254 greys! B&W photography
is mostly "SHADES OF GREY PHOTOGRAPHY"
Click to expand...

You don't have to explain tonal range to me my friend ;-)

Edited:

I'm explaining the basic concept of b&w image appearance to someone who doesn't understand how to process one. Even describing a tonal S curve would be overkill. What I'm trying to suggest to the OP is the need to emphasise the blacks, shadows, whites and highlights in the image, with fewer mid-tone greys.

Your explanation is irrelevant in the sense of explaining the visual appearance of a well retouched b&w image.
 
Last edited:
Oliver Pohlmann said:
use that explanation of yours to a novice photographer?
Click to expand...
•


That's what I explain my students and mentorees
every week! Novices are what they are: novices.
But I have learned that they don't stay novices very
long as they have the nasty habit of learning very
fast.

Oliver Pohlmann said:
black & white means just that - black and white, not grey.
Click to expand...
Is a wrong statement and I was explaining why. I am
not very competent in English so I may have read it
wrong.
 
Kodiak Qc said:
•


That's what I explain my students and mentorees
every week! Novices are what they are: novices.
But I have learned that they don't stay novices very
long as they have the nasty habit of learning very
fast.


Is a wrong statement and I was explaining why. I am
not very competent in English so I may have read it
wrong.
Click to expand...

I edited my previous post before I read your reply, as I didn't word it very clearly. I was referring to the need to emphasise the blacks, shadows, whites and highlights over the mid tone greys.

Your English is perfect!
 
AMFCP said:
@htid
So let me get this straight

Find Good Light between Sunrise & Sunset
------------------------------------------------------------------
@Carlh
My Name is Alexander
Yes I could have waited and zoomed it for a start.
2nd. Do you think I could have adjusted the contrast on my camera before shooting?
3rd. I did shoot RAW
4th. I'll make sure to clean up the image next time and straighten it also
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
Hi Alexander :) You shot in raw so dont worry about contrast etc.. until you've popped those suckers into camera raw, setting contrast etc... will make no difference to the RAW file. Then in camera raw app , you can adjust. Everyone uses it different, but I tend to have:
exposure slider set accordingly
contrast around +38
highlights usually down if I have some blown out bits
shadows + 0 - + 70 if I've got the shadows really dark and want to show some detail
clarity +7 maybe +13
vibrance +5
I dont touch saturation
I have sharpness at +70 radius 1.4
Lens correction set to the lens on the camera, 90% of the time camera raw will select it for you once you enable it
Set chromatic abberation on appropriate to your lens, a lot of the new lenses dont have or have very little CA. The only lens I have where I have to set CA is on my tokina 11-16, everything else works a-ok,
WB is neutral in RAW so set it how you want - if there was something pure white in the image, select the white balance tool and then click on that white bit, otherwise change it to whatever condition was i.e. cloudy/daylight etc.. and if things are a little too yellow or a little too blue, adjust the sliders as you see fit. Its all about interpretation and how you want it to look - if you can make it look like the scene you saw then job is done (y) though some creative input on that can make interesting images. Experiment and throw it into a C&C thread - we're all here to help, we all started off and I've had help off loads of people, just take the comments on the chin and not personally and you'll pick up so much more than standing your ground - but of course, if you feel the opinion is wrong, then feel free to object. Its all <just> opinions at the end of the day, they mean nothing but if taken correctly can be very useful when you turn to good use (y)

Change your settings to however <<you>> feel it represents your image best you can. Post, post and post some more. :)
 
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