New build has a significant issue.,...BSOD and beyond!

My starting point would be to unplug everything in the computer except bare essentials and just leave a single memory stick in place after removing and reinserting it. If it won't boot normally then swap for the other stick. If it still won't boot then likely mobo, PSU or processor. You could also make a bootable USB stick with Linux just to see if the windows install is stuffed - could be cumulative corruption due to cloning instead of fresh install.
This.
Plus EUFI does not like cloning.
I suspect bad memory, which the quoted post will diagnose.
If you installed the cpu yourself take it out and make sure you've not bent a pin.
 
This.
Plus EUFI does not like cloning.
I suspect bad memory, which the quoted post will diagnose.
If you installed the cpu yourself take it out and make sure you've not bent a pin.
Ok. I've read the rest of the thread now and this is getting real messy.
Use media creation tool. Put win 10 on usb.
Install to new hdd.
You win 10 license and its xfer is a diffent issue.
Do the new drive clean install first to prove the hardware.
Too many variables being juggled here.
 
Sounds like the DVD may be dirty or just not readable.
If the lens on the drive is a bit dusty, it will read some disks and not others as well.

Yes, it is a good idea to remove all drives except the one you are installing to.
Then when you add the drives back again, start with what was the D drive and make sure it is the D drive after putting it back, and change the drive letter if it is not what you want it to be before putting the next drive back.

Other things you may want to back up are the favourites folder (most browsers now you have to export and import) the fonts folder, and any add-ons or plug ins that may be in the programmes folder, unless you have them elsewhere. I never store emails only locally, I always leave copies on the mail server, deleting them from the server was an old idea when data was limited or expensive, but if you have deleted them from the server, emails will need to be backed up, if they are on the server you will be able to download them all again.

I always use an account with admin rights, but by default it still asks for permission to make any system changes.

You can't just copy a DVD to a USB stick if you want it to boot, however the software asks you whether you want to create a DVD or USB boot device.

It is important during the first stages of install to delete all the old partitions and let the install create them again.

If you bought w10 pro on DVD then I think that is the best thing to use, as the key will be correct for it. You cold not use your key to install from a volume licence edition DVD, not could you use a volume licence key to install from your DVD. The licence key will determine many things such as what features are installed etc, not just that you have a licence. That means the installation will probably be common, and what you get depends on your key. I have never installed home edition, so can't say that from experience.

If it was mine, I would remove all drives except the system drive and the DVD drive. I would remove the graphics card too, and any other hardware extras.
Reset the BIOS to default, check that it sees the system drive (you may have to change the settings for it to see the drive, and you may have to change them later for the installation to run correctly, but usually not)

Run a fresh install from the purchased DVD, deleting all partitions, complete the install, then run updates as many times as it takes until it says none available.

Install what ever programmes you want on the system drive. (I install all programmes on the system drive, they will often not run from another drive without reinstalling anyway, as all the registry entries for those programmes will be missing)

Run it for a while, enter the key etc and make sure it is accepted for a few days, install Malwarebytes and SyncFolder app from microsoft (the easiest and quickest way to make backups I have found)

Add your data drive, and back it up.

If all is well, put the video card back in and install the drivers it needs.


I personally think all will be well :)

Couple of random thoughts, having done similar every day for 25 odd years before I stopped work, it is a bit different doing it, where your instincts and past experiences tend to put you on autopilot, than it is trying to think of the processes to write down. I know that others doing it for a living find the same thing, some may not.
Also, you referred back to posts where you had already answered something, or had already been said. Unfortunately that is a feature of threads like this, simply if people had to keep up to date with the thread, they would not reply :) Also, you will get the same thing said in different was from different people

You said you have two M2 drives, have you already put data on the second one? If not, or if you have it securely backed up, it might be an idea to use that as the new system drive, incase you don't save something you need from the old one, though as it was cloned, I would assume you still have the source drive?

With windows, re-installing is not a nuclear option, it is a basic one :)
Steve

Thanks for your comprehensive post, much appreciated :)

More to absorb..........and all very sensible.

In regard to the DVD being unreadable, I did contact the supplier (a used by many UK eTailer) and they have reassured me that the I can use the Media Creation Tool to create the USB and that is does indeed have both Home & Pro version that are offered during the installation process and more importantly that the DVD License Key can be used with that type of media.

In regard to your feedback about this, the version I bought was OEM not retail in case that makes a difference to your advice on that ???
 
My starting point would be to unplug everything in the computer except bare essentials and just leave a single memory stick in place after removing and reinserting it. If it won't boot normally then swap for the other stick. If it still won't boot then likely mobo, PSU or processor. You could also make a bootable USB stick with Linux just to see if the windows install is stuffed - could be cumulative corruption due to cloning instead of fresh install.

This.
Plus EUFI does not like cloning.
I suspect bad memory, which the quoted post will diagnose.
If you installed the cpu yourself take it out and make sure you've not bent a pin.
Sorry I missed your details @ancient_mariner about the Linux Bootable USB 'test'.

Re: query a bent pin? When I inserted the CPU I ensured it was flat, level and engaged with the locator notches before latching it down. Also, the system worked for about a total of 36 hours before throwing it's toys out if the pram. So, AFAIK if there was an issue of a bent pin it would not have booted at all after the build.
Ok. I've read the rest of the thread now and this is getting real messy.
Use media creation tool. Put win 10 on usb.
Install to new hdd.
You win 10 license and its xfer is a diffent issue.
Do the new drive clean install first to prove the hardware.
Too many variables being juggled here.
Yes, I have made a rod for my own back by going the cloning route :(

Lesson learned, so back to square one.

As for my W10 License, this is a new OEM DVD bought for the express use on the new build i.e. it is not being transferred from my old PC;)

Right, off to find a suitable Linux version to try as a bootable and clarify the hardware question. Ideally a version that will work with the Logitech MX keys & MX Ergo with their Unifying Receiver (I do have a wired keyboard available but cannot lay my hands my old wired mouse....). I would welcome any pointers to a suitable Linux distribution to download :thinking:
Edit ~ so many distributions to choose from
 
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The OEM version bought for that new machine should be fine, the only possible issue I could see is with all that has gone on, you may end up having to phone microsoft as they may think it has already been installed on another machine, but that is quick and easy.

I don't remember reading about the mouse, I have never had any mouse or keyboard that eventually plugs into a USB port give any issues for basic operation for many years now, and they should work on the BIOS setup.

I wouldn't at this stage add to the many things by downloading any Linux or boot up diagnostics. If the mouse works in the BIOS setup, it will work in windows, if it doesn't work in the BIOS setup, get any cheap one from a local supermarket/shop and use your wired keyboard.

Basically everyone has said one common thing to do, fresh install, other problems may well disappear once you have that done.
 
Mint cinnamon edition. If you make the USB stick bootable then there's no need for an install. I use Rufus for this, but others available.

Mint tends to 'just works' in a way Apple can only envy.
 
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The OEM version bought for that new machine should be fine, the only possible issue I could see is with all that has gone on, you may end up having to phone microsoft as they may think it has already been installed on another machine, but that is quick and easy.

I don't remember reading about the mouse, I have never had any mouse or keyboard that eventually plugs into a USB port give any issues for basic operation for many years now, and they should work on the BIOS setup.

I wouldn't at this stage add to the many things by downloading any Linux or boot up diagnostics. If the mouse works in the BIOS setup, it will work in windows, if it doesn't work in the BIOS setup, get any cheap one from a local supermarket/shop and use your wired keyboard.

Basically everyone has said one common thing to do, fresh install, other problems may well disappear once you have that done.
Thanks.

I have now found my old Trackball mouse...
So to take the wireless kB and mouse of the equation I will use the wired ones. I did find the wireless kB a bit slow in response when (trying) to enter the BIOS screen on the new build.

Yes, rod for my own back.......fresh square one for me now ;)

Re: Linux..... purely as a precautionary tool I will download one/it.

Mint cinnamon edition. If you make the USB stick bootable then there's no need for an install. I use Rufus for this, but others available.

Mint tends to 'just works' in a way Apple can only envy.
Thanks
I will look up the Mint Bootable USB (especially now I have found my wired mouse i.e. no concerns about Logitech wireless support.
 
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Thanks.

I have now found my old Trackball mouse...
So to take the wireless kB and mouse of the equation I will use the wired ones. I did find the wireless kB a bit slow in response when (trying) to enter the BIOS screen on the new build.

Yes, rod for my own back.......fresh square one for me now ;)

Re: Linux..... purely as a precautionary tool I will download one/it.


Thanks
I will look up the Mint Bootable USB (especially now I have found my wired mouse i.e. no concerns about Logitech wireless support.


Yes the Linux is an excellent idea, I used to use Hirens Boot CD as well, but at the moment I think you may be looking for a problem that is not there :)
 
Also stop worrying about windows licenses. You don’t need one to install it. Yes you need a license to unlock advanced features but this can be done afterwards for as little as a fiver.

I feel your adding in far too many unnecessary steps to delay the inevitable. Stop messing around with the dvd. Download a windows iso, put it in a usb stick and you could be up and running in 30 mins.
 
If you bought w10 pro on DVD then I think that is the best thing to use, as the key will be correct for it. You cold not use your key to install from a volume licence edition DVD, not could you use a volume licence key to install from your DVD. The licence key will determine many things such as what features are installed etc, not just that you have a licence. That means the installation will probably be common, and what you get depends on your key. I have never installed home edition, so can't say that from experience.

:)
I don't think you're right about there being differences in the OS installation images as I've successfully installed W10 from the image downloaded with the MS media creation tool and used a volume licencing key. Home, Pro or Enterprise is determined by the key.
 
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I don't think you're right about there being differences in the OS installation images as I've successfully installed W10 from the image downloaded with the MS media creation tool and used a volume licencing key. Home, Pro or Enterprise is determined by the key.
You're probably right, I did also say the key determines what you get, my thoughts were probably carry overs from earlier versions. We used to get a large folder with lots of discs, and if the wrong disc was used get a message the key was not valid for that version.

When I left the last place of work, most of the machines were all nearly 7 years old and struggled to run W10, so used to avoid it where possible.
 
Ok update....

I removed the non boot M.2 drive.

Put in the Bootable W10 installer USB

Got into BIOS and altered the boot sequence to disable the M.2 (though the USB showed activity it still tried the M.2)

However.....
It will not start the install and I either get the same BSOD with error WHEA INCORRECTABLE ERROR
or it cycles ~ power down and restart by itself.

NB I found that even when accessing the BIOS it would freeze! No showing on the screen, the motherboard make splash screen a a half circle of the whirling dots!

NB when in the BIOS the CPU temp is stable at 29degrees.

Looks like a call to the seller of the motherboard & CPU

Oh, I also did the swapper rooney of the ram sticks, just in case.

As it will not boot to the W10 installer is there any benefit to be gained from trying Mint Linux?
 
Ok update....

I removed the non boot M.2 drive.

Put in the Bootable W10 installer USB

Got into BIOS and altered the boot sequence to disable the M.2 (though the USB showed activity it still tried the M.2)

However.....
It will not start the install and I either get the same BSOD with error WHEA INCORRECTABLE ERROR
or it cycles ~ power down and restart by itself.

NB I found that even when accessing the BIOS it would freeze! No showing on the screen, the motherboard make splash screen a a half circle of the whirling dots!

NB when in the BIOS the CPU temp is stable at 29degrees.

Looks like a call to the seller of the motherboard & CPU

Oh, I also did the swapper rooney of the ram sticks, just in case.

As it will not boot to the W10 installer is there any benefit to be gained from trying Mint Linux?
Did you remove your video card?
If it won't work properly in BIOS setup, I don't see the point in trying Linux
 
If it’s not stable when you’re just accessing the BIOS, then it’s looking to me like a motherboard issue.
 
Did you remove your video card?
If it won't work properly in BIOS setup, I don't see the point in trying Linux
Yes, it was the first thing I removed once the BSOD issue started.
If it’s not stable when you’re just accessing the BIOS, then it’s looking to me like a motherboard issue.
This is my growing supposition

It will confirmyour suspicion that the hardware is faulty if it can't boot off the stick. Shouldn't need to touch a drive inside.
Hmmm! as even the BIOS access is temperamental :thinking:
 
BIOS is on the mobo, so yes, although if BIOS access is iffy then it's almost confirmed already.
Re: Mint Linux
Downloading now and reading up about checking the Hash verification......................it does read as a bit tortorous ???
 
Re: Mint Linux
Downloading now and reading up about checking the Hash verification......................it does read as a bit tortorous ???

It's to make certain the version you have is untampered and intact. For the purposes of the experiment it's really unnecessary provided you downloaded from the Mint website and not just from a random site or torrent.
 
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It's to make certain the version you have is untampered and intact. For the purposes of the experiment it's really unnecessary provided you downloaded from the Mint website and not just from a random site or torrent.
I used the topmost download mirror
I followed the instructions of how to check the Hash Key (using GNUpg) the Hash Key matched the key from the Mint Linux page and then Etcher Portable to flash the ISO to the USNB stick) Oddly, to me that once the USB was flashed it was not readable in Windows Explorer :thinking:
 
I used the topmost download mirror
I followed the instructions of how to check the Hash Key (using GNUpg) the Hash Key matched the key from the Mint Linux page and then Etcher Portable to flash the ISO to the USNB stick) Oddly, to me that once the USB was flashed it was not readable in Windows Explorer :thinking:
Thats ok, the flash drive will be now in a Linux format.
 
Right I have tried to boot from the Mint Linux Cinnamon USB

I see the Linux Boot Grub LoaderIMG_20230406_134124465.jpg
Click return for the default selection and it does not launch Mint !

Motherboard 'toast' ???

PS and FWIW I also start again and clicked on the UEFI Firmware Settings and that accessed the BIOS as expected but the mouse and keyboard (both wired not wireless) were unresponsive !!!
 
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Just on the off chance that it could be a corrupt bios, could you possibly update it. That's if it's even possible with your current predicament.
 
Just on the off chance that it could be a corrupt bios, could you possibly update it. That's if it's even possible with your current predicament.
At the very start I updated the BIOS to allow for use with the GPU and all was well..................the system ran (not continuously) for a little over 36 hours.

PS the BIOS update was done using the Q-Flash
 
OK?

I will see if I can get a stable access 'session' of the BIOS and select default values....though note I did not make any changes like overclocking etc.

Either way will also follow the battery removal reset method and see what happens????

Note ~ just above the item 21 on page 32 about the battery method this item 20 using screwdriver to "Short Clear CMOS values"
 
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Update

BIOS default has not helped.........cannot now even access the BIOS !

Time to phone Novatech.
 
OK?

I will see if I can get a stable access 'session' of the BIOS and select default values....though note I did not make any changes like overclocking etc.

Either way will also follow the battery removal reset method and see what happens????

Note ~ just above the item 21 on page 32 about the battery method this item 20 using screwdriver to "Short Clear CMOS values"
I would remove battery AND clear cmos. The capacitors can hold the settings for a surprisingly long time.
 
I would remove battery AND clear cmos. The capacitors can hold the settings for a surprisingly long time.
Yes, did that. .... including as the manual says to short the battery terminals.
 
Right.......

Discussed with Novtech support and it was mutually agreed that the it is either the motherboard and/or the CPU. So stripdown time to remove the board and as discussed with the tech guy to leave the CPU in situ.

Will have to be patient as they have a queue of work so from receipt turnround is 5 days and what with Easter Holiday..................w.c. 17th before I know the outcome. BUT I made it plain to him I expect (subject to their findings?) a brand new motherboard & CPU !

PS I went through all the checks I had done and the last thing he suggested was the CMOS battery out & clear ;) NB I explained from the very beginning that the initial build by cloned drive but the clean install etc was done done /attempted.
 
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^^Good luck, I hope you get a fully satisfactory outcome.
 
Just need to buy some thermal paste cleaning swabs.......

One set includes a spatula to aid the removal of the paste......are the swabs good on their own???
 
Just need to buy some thermal paste cleaning swabs.......

One set includes a spatula to aid the removal of the paste......are the swabs good on their own???
I would remove as much as possible with very careful use of a scraper and then clean the residual paste by swab/solvent. Think I used IPA (not the beer) last time.
 
I would remove as much as possible with very careful use of a scraper and then clean the residual paste by swab/solvent. Think I used IPA (not the beer) last time.
For expediency I have ordered the 'kit' with the spatula and 3 swabs (and unnecessary kit TIM......on the surmise that the tube that came with the HSF still has enough for another application?) :)
 
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Whilst I wait for the replacement(s) I will have time to organise my stuff to re-install all of my programs on a clean W10 installation ;)
 
Since 1979, I have never had a DOA processor! I can't remember having more than a couple at all in that time.
Bad memory, disc drives, add-on cards, mother boards, but never a processor.

If your is faulty, either I have been very lucky, or you very unlucky :)

I would be surprised if it was faulty, but let's hope they get it sorted for you and find a clear problem.
 
Sorry it's toast, but sometimes that's just how it is. Hope you get up and running soon.
Thanks :) and sh*t can happen.
Since 1979, I have never had a DOA processor! I can't remember having more than a couple at all in that time.
Bad memory, disc drives, add-on cards, mother boards, but never a processor.

If your is faulty, either I have been very lucky, or you very unlucky :)

I would be surprised if it was faulty, but let's hope they get it sorted for you and find a clear problem.
When I chatted it through with the support guy, I said and he acknowledged (based on the symptoms & my testing) it can only be the motherboard and/or the CPU.

He going on to say both need to be returned for their inspection & analysis........ for/prior to repair or replacement.

I told him that bearing in mind how recently this was purchased, I would require brand new in their boxes replacements.
NB though he wanted me to return the motherboard with the CPU in situ he said I need to include the Intel CPU box! Lucky for both of us it keep all boxes:D

I have had the returns email that includes a none surprising "We must also advise under our terms and conditions for returns that once inspected if there is found to be any user caused physical damage then the item maybe returned to yourself unrepaired or will not be replaced."

Suffice to say I will take pictures of the motherboard on my ESD mat before bagging in its ESD bag and boxing up.......with pictures of each aspect etc for my own peace of mind.

NB recording, where they exist, serial numbers etc
 
Thanks :) and sh*t can happen.

When I chatted it through with the support guy, I said and he acknowledged (based on the symptoms & my testing) it can only be the motherboard and/or the CPU.

He going on to say both need to be returned for their inspection & analysis........ for/prior to repair or replacement.

I told him that bearing in mind how recently this was purchased, I would require brand new in their boxes replacements.
NB though he wanted me to return the motherboard with the CPU in situ he said I need to include the Intel CPU box! Lucky for both of us it keep all boxes:D

I have had the returns email that includes a none surprising "We must also advise under our terms and conditions for returns that once inspected if there is found to be any user caused physical damage then the item maybe returned to yourself unrepaired or will not be replaced."

Suffice to say I will take pictures of the motherboard on my ESD mat before bagging in its ESD bag and boxing up.......with pictures of each aspect etc for my own peace of mind.

NB recording, where they exist, serial numbers etc
My only observation with all of that is that they have mentioned repair a couple of times. No no no no no.
 
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