Nikkormat FT3 anyone using one?

Haven't used one, but I suspect the shutter speed control and film speed setting around the lens mount would annoy me. I believe the FM was effectively the replacement, and I'd seriously consider one of those unless you're getting the FT3 for pennies...

Both have an excellent reputation for reliability. The FT3 has mirror lock-up and duplicates the match-needle thing on the top plate while the FM doesn't, but the FM has a conventional speed/ASA dial on the top and match-LED metering rather than match-needle. The FM meter has a wider EV range (FM: 1-18, FT3: 3-17) and can go a stop faster at 3200asa. Both have the same focussing screen, DoF preview and the little flippy-lever thing for pre-AI lenses. The FT3 only shows shutter speed in the finder, while the FM has both. The FM can take a motor drive while the FT3 can't (MD11 or MD12 - usually £25 or less).

When I was shopping for a 35mm SLR, I didn't look at Nikkormats, but I did choose an FM from various all-mechanical options specifically for its conventional layout, DoF preview, general compactness and good reputation. Wasn't bothered about a motor drive, but recently ordered one (still to arrive) when I found out how cheap they are. As a camera, I'm well pleased with it. Back in the day, I had a Minolta SRT that had mirror lock-up, which was virtually never used, so wasn't bothered about the FM not having that feature. I kinda-sorta prefer match needle metering because I get a better feel for how far away from the meter reading the current settings are, but the LEDs are definitely better in low light and are an obvious indication that the meter is switched on.

If going for an FM, there was a transition at serial number 3,000,000. Before that, there's a rotating collar around the shutter release to switch between normal use and motor drive - fit a drive, and you need to set the collar or risk a resolvable mechanical lock-up (drive off, short contacts, refit drive). Setting the collar for drive also locks the camera's shutter button. The later ones dispensed with this and integrated the lock into the film advance lever - lever out to ready position to unlock, and motor drive mode changes automatically when the lever is in and out. If the lever is out and you fire the shutter, the film doesn't advance until you push the lever back in (not sure if manual advance is possible). When the motor drive is fitted, the meter is switched on without having to pull the advance lever out - with the MD12, the meter automatically powers off after 50 secs and a half-press of the drive's shutter button switches it back on. With the MD11, the meter stays on unless you switch the drive off, and may also have a small drain on its own batteries if not switched off. I've read that the later FMs were also slightly more beefed up inside, but don't know what was done (they'll both have things like ball bearing spinny bits and hardened gears to accommodate the motor drive). The earlier ones have knurling on the collar around the shutter release, and the later ones have a plain collar, Best combo is the later camera and MD12 drive.
 
The reason I thought of buying a Nikkormat FT3 is that I am using Nikon for my digital photography and I wanted a mechanical film camera.

Also I used to have an Olympus OM1 amongst many other film cameras and I found it far easier to use with the shutter speed around the back of the lens and the Nikkormat has that.

Thanks for the posts and information.
 
In that case, it looks like the FT3 is the only one to choose, since only it works with AI lenses. Reports and opinions all seem good. Something else to note is that it's quite heavy - something like 800-900g for the body.
 
Nikkormat meters are prone to twitchiness, but otherwise they are arguably just as solid and reliable (and nearly as heavy) as the F and F2 they were sold alongside. Probably the best bargain these days in Nikon mechanical bodies.
 
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