Beginner Nikon D3300 Camera body. Looking for a beginner telephoto/zoom lens.

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Literally been researching for a good 4 months for a good telephoto/zoom lens to start off with so I can shoot sport. A lot of people say to me that the Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 is the best lens for shooting sport and it looks amazing from the reviews I've watched and read but it is quite an expensive lens.

Is there any other lens people can recommend to me? What are people's thoughts on the "70-200mm F2.8 EX DG APO HSM - Nikon fit"? HSM is just a type of auto focus is that correct?
 
Literally been researching for a good 4 months for a good telephoto/zoom lens to start off with so I can shoot sport. A lot of people say to me that the Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 is the best lens for shooting sport and it looks amazing from the reviews I've watched and read but it is quite an expensive lens.

Is there any other lens people can recommend to me? What are people's thoughts on the "70-200mm F2.8 EX DG APO HSM - Nikon fit"? HSM is just a type of auto focus is that correct?
HSM means it has an internal focusing motor, which you will need for sigma lenses on the d3300.
 
HSM means it has an internal focusing motor, which you will need for sigma lenses on the d3300.

Thank you for clearing that up for me. I don't think this has image stabilization though according to a few reviews which is probably important for a beginner.
 
Probably won't be a big issue as you will need the shutter speed up higher for sports and 1/300s and faster would be about right to overcome camera shake.

So you'd probably recommend this to a beginner sports photographer then?
 
So you'd probably recommend this to a beginner sports photographer then?
I don't do any sports photography and haven't used the lens, so I couldn't say. I was just clarifying the acronym in the lens title and commenting on the technique that would negate the need for image stabilization. You may get more specific advice in the sports photography section.
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/talk-sports.96/
 
So you'd probably recommend this to a beginner sports photographer then?
Hate to sound pedantic, but no one can 'recommend' to that degree, it's a good lens, has been updated with stabilisation, lowering the price of s/h ones.

If you've never used anything similar before, it takes some practice, and it'll be heavy. I'd recommend a monopod if you're planning hours of use.

It depends on the sport though, for many sports it's not really long enough, even on a crop body.

Buy a good second hand one and you'll not lose much if you want to swap it later.
 
What sports though ? 200mm is only long enough for some sports depending where you stand or area you are forced to be in.

I'm not a sports photographer but I have a 55-200mm on a crop body and its not that long, I always wish I had a 600mm +
 
Start-Small, get technique over technology.

Tele-photo's are a bit of a one trick-dog, especially for a beginner, they delver 'instant impact' from the narrow angle of view, cropping out clutter, and making the subject big in the frame. At the same time, long focus ranges, tend to slim Depth-of-Field, so back-grounds get out-of-focus, easily, again disassociating the subject from the setting adding 'impact'....

'Sports' is also pretty vague.. on the one hand you have something like Ice-Hockey.. a tiny little puck being knocked about at near light speed, often in poorly lit ice-rink, usually with horribly hash and contrasty lighing, and the little niggle, basic scene is far from average exposure.... that is probably about as challenging as it gets I imagine. At the other end, you have the old-folks-home lawn-bowls legue.... Nice evenly lit outdoor setting, and 'balls' moving with the velocity of a glacier....

BUT.. take ANY 'sport' and start racking in and filling the frame with 'face'.... a pained expression of conentration and exhaustion of some-one dripping sweat.. a-n-d... what 'sport' are they playing? After initial impact has grabbed a viewers attention, what's left?

Racking 'out' and including 'more' scene from LESS zoom, is where you gve your pictures 'interest' to make sense and explain that 'impact'; where you provide the 'context' to show the viewer, what sport they are playing, and why they are pulling that face, and start 'adding' interest in what you don't crop from the frame.....

CONTEXT IS ALL!! Composition, Composition, COMPOSITION!

Then Technique over Technology.

Shooting sports SO much is in the 'know-how' and not just in the know-how of the camera gear, but of the sport itself... just like bird watching, you have to know the subject to shoot it; where will the bird or ball be? What are they doing? What do you need to include in the frame to explain what you are looking at?

BIG zoom now starts to become an impediment to the beginner; once a few big impact shots have grabbed attention, everything else starts to disappoint, as the big zoom 'looses' so much interest for that impact...

Meanwhile they are hard to use! No, not use 'well'.. at all! No point having frame filling 'reach' if you are most often filling frame with back-ground, not subject! You can pretty much cover half a football pitch with a standard angle lens (35mm aprox on DX) from the side-lines; you can capture the entire scene. Go up to 70mm on DX and now you are getting 'in' on individual players or small groups in the middle of the field.. but try tracking them as they start to 'run'....

As a generalist, my interest in 'sport' has tended to be of the motor veriety; cars and motorbikes may move pretty quick, but they also tend to be reasonably large.. still challenging to not chop in half, or get dissapearing out of the frame with even not 'that' much zoom. School-Sports-Day? If they still let you take photo's of kids without calling the cops(?!?) Again context is all; I could take pictures of my kids running around all day long, anywhere, any time... what tells viewer that was when they won the green ribbon for effort that makes THAT moment 'special'? B-U-T, on 'full-frame' film cameras, 70-210 was as much as I ever used, and even then, in that sort of situation, 28-80 was probably more use, going 'wide' getting context, or getting close to the action BY getting close to the action, and sitting on the finish line or getting down on the grass next to the high-jump or whatever....

On DX Digital; I have the kit 18-55 and the 55-300. That 55-300 isn't a fantastic lens, it's cheap reach, B-U-T still 'useful', a-n-d, as far as the reach goes, its probably TOO much reach for a lot of stations; and at a couple of motor-bike events, its been the 'cross-over' between 18-55 and 55-300 that has had me vexed, and to get the framing I want in that region, 'really' I wanted an 18-140ish super-zoom to save having to swap lenses in a hurry; and I have shot SO LITTLE over 200mm, the extra up top really has been a bit of a waste... as said, with more reach in the bag for film, I rarely reached for it, so no surprise really I don't use it on digital, where even 200mm gives the equivalent framing of a 300mm thanks to the crop-factor...

Which is to beg a suggestion.... 200m on DX is probably more than enough 'zoom' for most sports and certainly most beginners. You are pondering 70-200 lenses so that added reach is already discounted, which begs the suggestion, that IF you went 70-200, the likely 'lack' you 'may' find, if after discovering the one-trick-dog of big impact frame filling zoom, IS the 'context' from the wider end, where 70mm is going to be the pinch-point, and having that extra beneath it in the 55-70 area, which is so often far more useful, starts to become a silent failing... likely to either steer you to use the kit 18-55 more often and grumble you don't get the 'impact' or reach for the big-reach zoom, and grumble you don't get the context... or the subject!

My reccomend then, IS for the 'cheap' now under £100 brand new and should be under £50 2nd hand Nik-Kit 55-200... or possibly an 18-1X0 extended range kit zoom.

The wider end of the zoom, will give you that more oft used Field-of-View for 'context'; meanwhile it will also, IF you use it make tracking sujects before racking easier, to keep them in the frame. Should also dscourage over-using too much 'zoom' and loosing context and interest.

Meanwhile, that 55-200 has HUGE advantage in its favor of being SO 'cheap'.. it gets you into that higher reach range, to see what you can do and start evolving technique cheaply and with the added wide-end, easily, NOT making life quite 'so' hard for yourself. So WHAT it doesn't resolve quite so many lines per inch! Or its 'Focus Speed' isn't quite up to pro expectations.... TECHNIQUE... Before AF we worked with what we got and used manual focus! Starting out, these sort of qualities are NOT going to be the maker-or-breaker of your shots! And £50 gets you into the game, gets you learning, and WHEN you have acquired the technique to exploit it, THEN might be time to ponder the upgrade to something 'better'... and you'd have cash in the bank to do so... but there Here and now is to start small, and learn to get the most of the gear, rather than expecting the gear to deliver the results for you..

On which basis, 'what lens' tends to a point of insignificant semantics.. you could hand me a professional tennis racket, wont make me win Wimbledon when I cant serve a ruddy ball!! I would need a racket for sure, and probably not a table-tennis paddle, but beyond that? TECHNIQUE over TECHNOLOGY! Don't sweat the small stuff! Get a lens in the right region, and go gt the craft.
 
I have the 70/300 vr Nikon lens and love it for my d3300, check my post out I posted couple days ago in beginners sec.
 
Lots of choice out there in telephoto lenses. I purchased the af-s55-200 dx vr and it produces very sharp images on my nikon d3200. I have seen lots of images taken with the tamron 18-400 new lens and it looks very sharp but the price can be high. I usually purchase used lenses and research on "dxomark" web site. It gives impartial opinion {I think}.
 
Hello

I'm new here (1st post, be gentle!), but I have a D3300 and this is the very question I posed myself not so long ago.

I shoot motorsports, and quite frankly the D3300 is a poor choice for it. I bought it because it was cheap and I didn't know, of all the many features more expensive cameras have, which features I'd need. I figured start cheap, discover through trial and error what features really mattered, then trade it in for something with those features. The D3300 suffers through lack of auto-focus points (11 plus 1 centre cross-type), poor frame-rate (5fps but only if not using continuous AF, not shooting RAW, and only for a second or 2 before the buffer is full).

I mention this because I also considered the 70-200 f2.8, it's supposedly the "pro" choice sports lens. I was going to also buy a teleconverter to give it more reach (a viable proposition on the f2.8 but not on most lens). I figured that fast f2.8 might help in low light situations, but I don't shoot in low light. It might make the D3300's auto-focus a bit snappier, but if I had to stick the teleconverter on for more reach it's not a f2.8 anymore anyway.

I have a cheap (very) Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG zoom (the DG meaning it's for full-frame cameras, meaning it's really a 105-450mm zoom on a D3300). It works fine for the most part, just watch the shutter speed (again depending on what you're shooting).

I've also just purchased a Sigma 150-600mm zoom, as I intend to do more circuit photography this year and the extra reach will come in handy (plus I have a mind to do some wildlife photography). At £700 (new) it's half the price of a 2nd hand 70-200 f2.8 + teleconverter.

My advice, based on the experiences I've had in the last year or so, is start cheap, even budget lens can give good results if used correctly, and the case for more expensive kit will be made, or not as the case may be, as you discover what you can and can't do with the kit you have. Don't just buy a lens because someone says it's the best, it's what's best for you that's important.

I guess knowing which sport(s) you're intending to shoot would illicit better answers?
 
I've had a Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG Macro for a couple of years now and for the £80 I paid new it works a treat.

A lot better lenses to be had but I've used it for BIF and football matches and had some great pictures out of it. Will keep it long after I've got my hands on something a bit longer though.
 
I've got the Tamron 18-200mm for my D3300 as I wanted an all-rounder as a beginner. It's a very good lens, stood me in good stead thus far and wasn't massively expensive either.
 
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