Nikon D750 & D780

rob-nikon said:
If you go back through the thread there are pages and pages discussing screen protectors!! It's been an ongoing joke in this thread when no one has posted for a few hours. If it's a serious question any of the plastic stick on protectors on Amazon should be ok otherwise GGS glass protectors are the Rolls Royce option.

Officially Nikon say the PCs glass is tougher so it doesn't need a plastic protector like old dslrs did.

This is the one I use:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NMK8F2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Ha ha! No it was actually a serious question. Sorry I should have searched first. Thanks! [emoji51]
 
At some point yes but until I can get my shoulder stonger I need the VC.

Looking at Nikon versions too on Friday as day off!
 
I kinda like the concept Rob, but I think 10 seconds is too long. Some crashing waves with a quicker SS would have probably rendered a sharper bird. Alternatively you could take two exposures and PS the sharp bird into the LE frame. If there was a big flock of birds then it could pass as some fancy fine art and you could be a millionaire...
 
rob-nikon said:
Whilst in Norfolk last month I tried wildlife long exposures. I can see why they aren't many wildlife long exposures, with a 10 stop filter and 10 second shutter times its difficult to get a reasonable outline of one let alone two cormorants! Please let me know what you think, is it worthwhile trying again?


Coastal Cormorant by Rob Cain, on Flickr
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I like the concept. You could cheat and take one short exposure and one long.
 
I've been photographing lonely balls since 2010. This is number 385. :D

But I can't decide which picture is best...

tpZReP6SPggQRHJ6GYCre2FxADOq3YZ5CcDGBscDMjmxxvRmv_u6EbivDJ33Ust3S1iMJcHVzOxexkVltrc4VmPWabU632aCV3eUcL-9Qs6_yFjfZB5l7M1-SaxmywUEg8VlpnTCeQPiw01sd751fEqSOsXaf-isrv-y0yKN934C9nL56qz6KcSTVMmbnE1Knm5R0_jQ4J6F-OC-PSkxMXwyhdc9QSiiKNZn6tGdpXTRBGUb2yrWoh_3jk3wLaKLBfI-WwaG-5Usn8PXIhKvOZNWb5PXgchjuBREvmKlkCHUvJPJyhWKHCgA_2SMEOIOVDjxYqwhjfN8k-DdpVBsISocKeHjZAzpfUlUdFdkcaKHFm2-OOw1_8f_n_gjmY0JFcpOHHaDsjd6z__FSes_79iww5mtapXL477_72oC0_Qy-RtGV5ZH8NYb-McuggeUBKIUfxkk1LFg5iEjPPnrLEnqbjY_b6qC4LqWtnxt6g7iNxl3mCPQKRSDkBWcC343RuzjtRj3_dFv3TyGsDkVPx28Kumj5MeNcfpGJ83JVAUBHOftlTYiS0TN9NqKZDXbFNB1J93iZb4Nc850bsk77qAXG5ghRjWu8Sm3Xy7o7TQN1vbM3A=w475-h711-no


_7504687.jpg
 
minnnt said:
I kinda like the concept Rob, but I think 10 seconds is too long. Some crashing waves with a quicker SS would have probably rendered a sharper bird. Alternatively you could take two exposures and PS the sharp bird into the LE frame. If there was a big flock of birds then it could pass as some fancy fine art and you could be a millionaire...
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Ed Sutton said:
I like the concept. You could cheat and take one short exposure and one long.
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Unfortunately I didn't get much time for trial and error. I think your right that 10 seconds is too long unless they had outstretched wings. 5 seconds would be better and possible to do. At the time I was going for the milky water look and it was difficult to capture the two cormorants posing without moving. At the time I was more wondered about not toppling off the rock I was balancing on or knocking over the tripod. I had visions of the camera going one way and me the other!
 
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WWA said:
@Ed Sutton The first conveys loneliness and desperation. A black and white conversion would hold even more emotion.
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I think that's right, the first one has more to it than a picture of a ball.
 
Ed Sutton said:
I think that's right, the first one has more to it than a picture of a ball.
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If it's ok with you, I might print it, frame it and listen to early Bob Dylan tracks whilst looking at it. Emotional stuff right there.
 
WWA said:
If it's ok with you, I might print it, frame it and listen to early Bob Dylan tracks whilst looking at it. Emotional stuff right there.
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Be my guest.:)
 
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While i was looking at the firmware of a sigma lens i checked my D750 firmware. Mine was on firmware 1.01, there's been a 1.02 and now a 1.10 version. So i did the really simple update, there's a list of little improvements/bug corrections coming with the newer software but nothing crazy, i don't think it will change anything really but still did it!
 
I think I've left mine on 0, and generally use highlight metering, or whatever it's called. *[ ] < That one. Over expose by up to 2 notches on the meter, depending on the scene.
I'm going to play around with multiple exposure blending (for landscapes at least)
 
Peter123 said:
How are you all finding exposure?
I shoot with mine at -0.3 most of the time.
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I'm surprised at that as Nikon's apparently expose slightly due to the left to prevent highlight clipping knowing that shadow recovery is excellent. I leave mine on 0 but often find I need to boost exposure in post.
 
I think it really depend if you are using for metering spot / center weighted / matrix. I was using center weighted before and the lock exposure function, but I find both the spot and center weighted give me very different exposure from one picture to the next. Now I use matrix and adjust the +/- exposure compensation accordingly to the brightness of the background compare to the subject and a few test shots which never is the same but often 0 is good.

I don't say it's the best method really, I'm always learning i would be interested to hear everyone approach on this!

PS: I also have the flashing highlights on when reviewing picture and it is a bit too safe, sometime the whole white background flashes but there's still plenty of detail in it when in lightroom.
 
Question about tracking focus. Let's say focusing on a individual which is running toward you what is the best settings? I don't mind so much having a huge burst but i would like a few in focus shot?
At the moment i'm set up in the auto-focus priority: AF-S priority release! Should i be using AF=S priority focus instead to get less shot but more shots in focus? What do you use?
 
AF-C with full 51 point focus area.....AF-C has predictive subject tracking. I have to say I've not yet to get into this with my d750 as its new to me still, but I struggled with this on my d7000 tbh
 
I use AF-C at the moment, setup on the back button. But don't really use the focus point groups. Maybe a small cluster would help. The 51 points might be an overkill? and likely focus on other things such as an arm pointing forward?
 
Lemaildetom said:
Question about tracking focus. Let's say focusing on a individual which is running toward you what is the best settings? I don't mind so much having a huge burst but i would like a few in focus shot?
At the moment i'm set up in the auto-focus priority: AF-S priority release! Should i be using AF=S priority focus instead to get less shot but more shots in focus? What do you use?
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You should never use AF-S on moving targets, especially ones coming towards or moving away from you. Between locking focus and pressing the shutter fully the subject will have moved out of critical sharpness.

For runners I use single AF point, AF-C set to focus priority (as I want all my shots to be in focus) and tracking set to 4 or 5. 3D tracking works well BUT it tends to move from the face to the torso so if using a wide aperture lens the face might be out of the zone of focus, which is why I prefer just using single point.

I don't use BBF as I find the AEL button a bit awkward.
 
Gosh i got confused in what i wrote down! I use single AF point, AF-C set to focus priority that what i use too! I look up the setting in my menu my AF-S is set to priority release but that for static as you said!
 
I like using bbf but the only draw back is, when the other half wants to take a pic with my camera she can never remember what to do even if I tell her several times.
 
snerkler said:
You should never use AF-S on moving targets, especially ones coming towards or moving away from you. Between locking focus and pressing the shutter fully the subject will have moved out of critical sharpness.

For runners I use single AF point, AF-C set to focus priority (as I want all my shots to be in focus) and tracking set to 4 or 5. 3D tracking works well BUT it tends to move from the face to the torso so if using a wide aperture lens the face might be out of the zone of focus, which is why I prefer just using single point.

I don't use BBF as I find the AEL button a bit awkward.
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When you say tracking set to 4 or 5. What does that do? I should maybe read the manual but probably far quicker to ask here lol.

I also use single focus but never sure what metering mode to use!
 
kingo15 said:
I like using bbf but the only draw back is, when the other half wants to take a pic with my camera she can never remember what to do even if I tell her several times.
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I have U2 set to use the shutter release for focus for such situations and for use with a remote.
 
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