Nikon D750 & D780

[snerkler]

Don’t use auto ISO with flash set the camera to expose for the background and the flash to expose for the subject.

TTL isn’t always a great idea either better to set the flash manually for off camera flash.

Tbh auto iso works OK with flash and TTL from my experience, however when using auto iso with flash it will only raise ISO by 2 stops from where you set it from memory.

 

[Lemaildetom]

Don’t use auto ISO with flash set the camera to expose for the background and the flash to expose for the subject.

TTL isn’t always a great idea either better to set the flash manually.

Getting lost already i know nothing about flash and only using the built in flash.

So should i avoid auto iso with built in flash?
And should i avoid TTL?

Here's a photo with exif:

I would link a raw but i don't know how...

 

[Lemaildetom]

Are you talking built in flash or speedlight?

Are you sure you don’t have bracketing on? How close is the subject? Any exp comp? How long between shots as sometimes if you don’t give enough time for the flash to charge up then it will underexpose? You could have flash exp comp set high, which overexposes the image but then depletes the flash so the next shot is underexposed as I said.

I could be wrong but
bracketing is OFF
exposure comp was OFF too
flash comp is set to 0
flash mode is a rectangle with an eye in it and TTL next to it.

auto iso was ON and base iso was set at 200iso

 

[snerkler]

I can’t see the EXIF as only on the phone, what was the aperture, how far away would you say the subject is. Looks like the flash is too powerful which could be exposure settings (too high iso or too wide an aperture) and/or the subject is too close. Flash works in a range, too close and it will overexpose, too far away and it will underexpose). Usually with flashes there’s a table somewhere in the manual, although with a lot of speedlights it will display the range on the back for a given exposure.

 

[f/2.8]

Getting lost already i know nothing about flash and only using the built in flash.

So should i avoid auto iso with built in flash?
And should i avoid TTL?

Here's a photo with exif:

I would link a raw but i don't know how...

Ooh okay let’s keep things simple don’t use auto iso with flash.

Dial in the base ISO at 100 use the on board flash with ttl adjust ISO as needed.

 

[Lemaildetom]

"subject" was a bit more that a meter away
exif
1/200 sec
86mm
f4
iso 5600 (why would it choose such a massive iso when it totally burn the whole image)

 

[f/2.8]

"subject" was a bit more that a meter away
exif
1/200 sec
86mm
f4
iso 5600 (why would it choose such a massive iso when it totally burn the whole image)

The camera is not accounting for the flash it won’t with auto ISO.

 

[Lemaildetom]

Ooh okay let’s keep things simple don’t use auto iso with flash.

Dial in the base ISO at 100 use the on board flash with ttl adjust ISO as needed.

Yes i will try next time but it is a bit off a pain.
You're taking a few photo and suddently think that you need a bit of flash then it mean not only you need to turn the flash on but then set the iso and likely the flash exposure compensation.

Can you not manage to "grab a simple shot" with built in flash without the need to manually set all of these variable?

 

[snerkler]

Getting lost already i know nothing about flash and only using the built in flash.

So should i avoid auto iso with built in flash?
And should i avoid TTL?

Here's a photo with exif:

I would link a raw but i don't know how...

Carrying on from my previous comment the reason that I say your flash is too powerful rather than the image being overexposed is that the background looks properly exposed, suggesting your actual exposure is OK.

Within the flash sync speed the shutter speed has no effect on the flash power, it will only effect background exposure. The flash power/exposure is influenced by ISO, aperture, and subject distance (and of course the power you set the flash at if using manual flash).

Edit, just seen you’ve added more posts before I wrote this, ISO 5600 seems odd when you set base ISO to 200. As I mentioned previously when I used flash on my D750 it would only raise ISO 2 stops from memory, but I used speedlights rather than built in flash.

 

[f/2.8]

Yes i will try next time but it is a bit off a pain.
You're taking a few photo and suddentlythink that you need a bit of flash then it mean not only you need to turn the flash on but then set the iso and likely the flash exposure compensation.

Can you not manage to "grab a simple shot" with built in flash without the need to manually set all of these variable?

That’s why it’s usually better to set everything manually you soon get a lot quicker changing settings. Auto ISO and automatic shooting modes are a bit of a crutch. They can be useful but are more limited for full control.

Direct flat light from an onboard flash is pretty unflattering too you would really be better if with a proper flash that you can bounce and use off camera etc.

 

[Lemaildetom]

Auto iso and exposure compensation have actually changed the way i take pictures nowadays. I don't do anymore the "everything manually" business and iI used to when i shot film and when i shot with canon which didn't have exposure compensation.

 

[f/2.8]

Auto iso and exposure compensation have actually changed the way i take pictures nowadays. I don't do anymore the "everything manually" business and iI used to when i shot film and when i shot with canon which didn't have exposure compensation.

Yes of course up to you but auto modes have limitations as you have just found out.

 

[snerkler]

"subject" was a bit more that a meter away
exif
1/200 sec
86mm
f4
iso 5600 (why would it choose such a massive iso when it totally burn the whole image)

Looking at this it appears that built in flash works differently than using a speedlight, ISO wouldn’t go that high when I used auto iso with flash and set it to 200.

However, as per my previous post the actual background exposure looks OK so you have a few options. Drop the shutter speed which will in turn lower the ISO. This will lower the flash exposure but keep the background properly lit. Or if you need shutter speed that high then lower the ISO to properly expose the subject, but meaning the background will be underexposed. You could also lower the flash compensation (but you would need to make sure that you had the flash compensation option for flash only), or you could move further away from the subject, 1m is prett close.

 

[andy1868]

Tbh auto iso works OK with flash and TTL from my experience, however when using auto iso with flash it will only raise ISO by 2 stops from where you set it from memory.

Slightly off topic but I noticed this myself recently and couldn’t get my head around it. Setting the camera for a base of ISO 100, if I enable AUTO-ISO and TTL I automatically get a figure of ISO 400. I simply couldn’t fathom it out and was going to ask in here if anybody else had the same results. It’s not normally a problem as I tend to shoot static ISO with flash, especially TTL as the exposures were always all over the place with changing lighting (normally DJ lights) but just wondered!

 

[Ed Sutton]

I find that if I want a quick snap using the pop-up flash the dreaded green AUTO mode saves thinking about it and gets acceptable results.

 

[snerkler]

Slightly off topic but I noticed this myself recently and couldn’t get my head around it. Setting the camera for a base of ISO 100, if I enable AUTO-ISO and TTL I automatically get a figure of ISO 400. I simply couldn’t fathom it out and was going to ask in here if anybody else had the same results. It’s not normally a problem as I tend to shoot static ISO with flash, especially TTL as the exposures were always all over the place with changing lighting (normally DJ lights) but just wondered!

Seems your auto iso behaves the same way mine did with flash, ie will only raise a couple of stops. I would guess ISO would have needed to go higher but 400 was the limit. If you get this behaviour too it’s strange that lemaildetom’s behaved differently and allowed ISO of 5600

 

[andy1868]

Off the top of my head I don’t know if the resulting image was ISO400 or above, just that the ISO on camera jumps to 400 if I have AUTO ISO and TTL enabled. If I disable either it returns to 100. Same thing happens across 2 bodies and 3 differing flashguns.

As I mentioned, not really a massive issue as I don’t tend to shoot that way, just a curiosity!

 

[snerkler]

Off the top of my head I don’t know if the resulting image was ISO400 or above, just that the ISO on camera jumps to 400 if I have AUTO ISO and TTL enabled. If I disable either it returns to 100. Same thing happens across 2 bodies and 3 differing flashguns.

As I mentioned, not really a massive issue as I don’t tend to shoot that way, just a curiosity!

Is that regardless of what the background exposure should be? I assume shutter speed alters accordingly, ie shutter speed raises when you use flash and ISO goes up to 400? Could it be a min shutter speed setting when using flash causing a higher shutter speed and therefore higher ISO to compensate?

 

[andy1868]

Sorry I was meant to check this last night, I can’t remember off the top of my head, perhaps tonight I’ll be less forgetful

 

[Ed Sutton]

Glad of having my 70-200/ f2.8 with me to reduce background clutter of a mate giving a fly casting demo yesterday.

 

[kingo15]

Glad of having my 70-200/ f2.8 with me to reduce background clutter of a mate giving a fly casting demo yesterday.

Where was this?

 

[Ed Sutton]

Where was this?

Westmorland County Show. Last year he said he wasn't doing it again!.

 

[Livin The Dream]

If it’s a little fill flash you want then you’re best slightly under exposing the ambient (use A with some exp comp dialled down) and use TTL.

Have a good read around flash, it might baffle at first but know the limitations. Manual is for like anything - locking exposure in consistent light. Some may advise not to use TTL, but that’s adding an extra layer of complexity at first, it does a great job. The bottom line is that you need to consider ambient and flash power separately. Manual flash output is fine if you have time to work it all out with a meter but for general fill TTL isn’t complicated to use. Auto ISO in manual is pointless. Remember that the shutter value affects the ambient only, whilst iso and aperture affect flash power. So if you do want to use manual (best for indoors) then for outdoors you’ll want to set as high as possible (sync of the 750 is 1/200) and for indoors around 1/60. Set your iso accordingly and chimp the aperture to balance the ambient.

 

[Deleted sulking member 63079]

When the background is a golf course.

ISO50, F8, 1/200th

Godox AD200 camera right with magspehere

 

[trevorbray]

When the background is a golf course.

ISO50, F8, 1/200th

Godox AD200 camera right with magspehere

View attachment 134501

Magic. Nice one

 

[Graham]

I done something really strange today, yup, I took the D750 out early AM
Don`t believe me, here`s the proof
1st day of my holiday`s and I get up at stupid o/clock

GRE_1753 by Graham, on Flickr

GRE_1748 by Graham, on Flickr

GRE_1742 by Graham, on Flickr

GRE_1728 by Graham, on Flickr

GRE_1710 by Graham, on Flickr

 

[bbk]

Seems your auto iso behaves the same way mine did with flash, ie will only raise a couple of stops. I would guess ISO would have needed to go higher but 400 was the limit. If you get this behaviour too it’s strange that lemaildetom’s behaved differently and allowed ISO of 5600

Is that regardless of what the background exposure should be? I assume shutter speed alters accordingly, ie shutter speed raises when you use flash and ISO goes up to 400? Could it be a min shutter speed setting when using flash causing a higher shutter speed and therefore higher ISO to compensate?

A quick test. With built in flash, auto ISO can go to max value set. Using my Godox TT685 mounted on camera, auto ISO only goes up to 2 stops from whatever is base ISO. Exposure meter displays on aperture mode depending on under/over exposure and min shutter speed set on Auto ISO. Is this the way to do it: either change aperture or raise base ISO so the exposure meter goes off?

 

[wibbly]

Bit of a loose end yesterday afternoon, so took a couple of photographs of my favourite muse!


_D759119 by Dave Young, on Flickr


_D759129 by Dave Young, on Flickr


_D759173 by Dave Young, on Flickr

 

[snerkler]

A quick test. With built in flash, auto ISO can go to max value set. Using my Godox TT685 mounted on camera, auto ISO only goes up to 2 stops from whatever is base ISO. Exposure meter displays on aperture mode depending on under/over exposure and min shutter speed set on Auto ISO. Is this the way to do it: either change aperture or raise base ISO so the exposure meter goes off?

I’m not sure what you are trying to achieve tbh, but if you want to expose the background correctly then you need to use the light meter to get the correct exposure as you normally would, you can the use TTL flash or manual flash to light the subject, either as flash fill or to light a dimly lit subject such as someone with their back to the sun.

If you want an underexposed background or black background you can set exposure so that the light meter is showing under exposure and then use TTL or manual flash to expose the subject properly.

Of course, this will change if you use bounce flash or the background is very close to the subject.

 

[bbk]

If I use ttl and auto ISO in aperture mode, camera's meter in most indoor situations is underexposing. I was not aware of the fact that auto ISO only raises 2 stops from set base ISO. Normally I use M mode to expose for background to my liking and use flash in TTL. But it's too much hit and miss. Still trying to find a balance

 

[kingo15]

evie party 12 by Mark Kingston, on Flickr

Another family party and only took the 35mm. Must be getting brave

 

[Ed Sutton]

I needed a pic for some promotional material so nipped out for a couple of hours. Left plenty of sky for some text, so the grey clouds were quite handy. Another couple of weeks and the colours might be nice for a return visit. Although I probably will have forgotten abut it by then...

 

[snerkler]

If I use ttl and auto ISO in aperture mode, camera's meter in most indoor situations is underexposing. I was not aware of the fact that auto ISO only raises 2 stops from set base ISO. Normally I use M mode to expose for background to my liking and use flash in TTL. But it's too much hit and miss. Still trying to find a balance

I used to adjust base ISO to the lowest that I might need and then hope that 2 stops would be enough leeway. It’s not ideal, but it was the quickest way I found if I was quickly moving from one thing to the next.

 

[Lemaildetom]

Thanks for explaining about the flash. So yes i sitche off auto-iso from now on for the pop up flash. It's just something to remember next time. I use the flash so very rarely!

 

[kingo15]

Thanks for explaining about the flash. So yes i sitche off auto-iso from now on for the pop up flash. It's just something to remember next time. I use the flash so very rarely!

I've got the option to turn it on or off set up in my custom menu thing.

 

[andy1868]

You can also set the record button to be ISO for quick removal

 

[snerkler]

You can also set the record button to be ISO for quick removal

Yes set record to ISO then press and hold whilst turning the rear control dial to change ISO setting, press and hold whilst turning the front control dial to toggle Auto ISO on/off, it's a doddle

 

[bbk]

That's how I do it. Auto ISO is new to me and seeing so many good photographers using here, I started playing with them. D750 is my first FF and since high ISO images are so good with this camera, I've no problem setting it to the highest ISO. As the flash topic came up here, I spent almost 2hrs reading & digesting Neil Van's website yesterday evening . Wife and daughter are fed up, so lil short on model to test the knowledge .

There are some impressive portrait shots here and if don't mind me asking, can anyone post their workflows? like where and how to meter, metering mode used,M/A/S, other settings, any filters and what to avoid (certain ISO, shutter speed, min/max distance to subject, time of the day etc). Indoor with good diffused natural light, I normally get min 800 ISO with Metrix metering for same setting as kingo15's while in his b&w above, he managed with 100. Same lens. Don't have 85mm but wibbly's daughter on 2nd pics above is very sharp wide open on her frame.

 

[snerkler]

That's how I do it. Auto ISO is new to me and seeing so many good photographers using here, I started playing with them. D750 is my first FF and since high ISO images are so good with this camera, I've no problem setting it to the highest ISO. As the flash topic came up here, I spent almost 2hrs reading & digesting Neil Van's website yesterday evening . Wife and daughter are fed up, so lil short on model to test the knowledge .

There are some impressive portrait shots here and if don't mind me asking, can anyone post their workflows? like where and how to meter, metering mode used,M/A/S, other settings, any filters and what to avoid (certain ISO, shutter speed, min/max distance to subject, time of the day etc). Indoor with good diffused natural light, I normally get min 800 ISO with Metrix metering for same setting as kingo15's while in his b&w above, he managed with 100. Same lens. Don't have 85mm but wibbly's daughter on 2nd pics above is very sharp wide open on her frame.

There are so many variables to portraiture that it is very difficult to pin point a single workflow. For me ISO will always be at base IF the environment allows me to. Shutter speed will generally be min 1/160 to avoid movement, although flash of course helps, and I often use priority mode outdoors. Aperture will depend. Outdoors I tend to shoot wide open, indoor can be anywhere from wide open to f16 depending on what I'm trying to achieve and what the background is, and I generally use manual mode for studio type situations. In a studio using flash(es) then ideally you want to use a light meter to get the exposure. Outdoor matrix works well as the D750 has. face priority option in matrix metering, meaning it will recognise a face and bias the metering to get the face exposed properly (within reason). If you want to make sure you have the exact exposure then use manual exposure, get close ish to your 'model' and use spot metering on their cheek or similar area and set the parameters accordingly. I've never used filters for portraits (it's a genre I don't shoot much of unfortunately) but like most things you generally get what you pay for. Glass are generally better than plastic/resin, but are very easy to break/damage.

As for time of day, for portraits you ideally want soft light so that you don't get harsh unflattering shadows. Unless you specifically want to take unflattering pics then shooting at high noon in the summer is a no no. Low sun can be nice to get some good backlighting, but will generally require flash/strobe to light the subject 'properly'.

 

[Livin The Dream]

Thanks for explaining about the flash. So yes i sitche off auto-iso from now on for the pop up flash. It's just something to remember next time. I use the flash so very rarely!

Set it up in one of your user modes (U1/U2) [emoji6]