Nikon D7xxx owners thread

specialman said:
I'm not making it difficult, just asking how much video fits on 'X' amount of space. I need at least four cards so there is a massive price difference depending on the capacities I go for.....

Remember, I'm currently running cameras from the dark ages so all this is all witchcraft to me :LOL:

Hello,

I'm shooting a doc at the moment in Thailand using the D7000 and I am getting just under 1.5hours if I'm recording audio aswell onto a 16gb card, if you get 4 16gb cards that will do you because you dump your footage onto hard drives at the end of the day anyway and 6hrs is a lot of footage for one day
 
That's what I needed to know Jacob, thanks for the info. I'll be shooting video (with audio) plus stills so a 16gb card in each slot, assigned to each task, sound like a good way to go. :)
 
jacob12_1993 said:
Hello,

I'm shooting a doc at the moment in Thailand using the D7000 and I am getting just under 1.5hours if I'm recording audio aswell onto a 16gb card, if you get 4 16gb cards that will do you because you dump your footage onto hard drives at the end of the day anyway and 6hrs is a lot of footage for one day

Thanks, I was interested in this info as well.
 
Hey everyone,

I have come across a very annoying little trait of the d7000 when trying to upload images to a macbook using the USB cable.

I have noticed that you can only have 1 application running that is capable of importing pictures when you plug the camera in, otherwise the images do not appear.

So for example, if I have capture one open, and image capture open at the same time, plug the camera in, neither sees the images. If I close capture one, image capture then magically sees the images. Bizarre - anyone else observed this type of thing??

I guess I'll just use a card reader instead...:|
 
It has 2 SD slots which can be set up in various ways. 1 for RAW 1 Jpeg. Or 1 video 1 images or when 1 is full 2nd goes to overflow etc etc.
 
Just ordered four Transcend 16gb class 10 cards - just over a tenner each seems good value.

GHP said:
It has 2 SD slots which can be set up in various ways. 1 for RAW 1 Jpeg. Or 1 video 1 images or when 1 is full 2nd goes to overflow etc etc.

Deffo going down the route of one slot for raw and the other for video, even though I haven't bought the camera strictly for stills.

Wil - I only ever use the USB connection these days, although that's mainly down to card readers bending pins and ruining CF cards..... Obviously no issue with SD in that respect.
 
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Would £650 be a good price for a used version of this camera? 1000 shutter actuations. :)
 
Ok, thanks for the help! Will get that ordered, also, do many of you guys keep your point and shoot cameras as well as the DSLR? I have an HX9 and I dont know if I should sell to fund the D7000??
 
Dom7 said:
Ok, thanks for the help! Will get that ordered, also, do many of you guys keep your point and shoot cameras as well as the DSLR? I have an HX9 and I dont know if I should sell to fund the D7000??

I don't, but I know many that do. Especially with the black rapid strap and a nice small prime lens I carry my d7000 nearly anywhere with me :)
 
Are there any ladies out there who use a D7000? I have always struggled with the weight of the camera, however it was really shown this evening. I have just bought a Jessops flash which I used with my 50mm to take some quick portraits for practice. My right wrist was killing after 25 shots. I have a grip but unsure whether this will only add to the weight. Has anyone found a way of combating this??? Sarah
 
fidsey79 said:
Are there any ladies out there who use a D7000? I have always struggled with the weight of the camera, however it was really shown this evening. I have just bought a Jessops flash which I used with my 50mm to take some quick portraits for practice. My right wrist was killing after 25 shots. I have a grip but unsure whether this will only add to the weight. Has anyone found a way of combating this??? Sarah

I have carpal tunnel syndrome and struggle at times with the weight of my D7000 (especially with my 24-70 on it). I find if I use wrist straps it lessens the problem. I got a couple of Vulkan wrist straps from Boots - about £11 each. Might be worth a try - they are basically wide elastic you hook over the thumb and the wrap around the wrist and secure with velcro.
BTW - I'm male and find it heavy with my wrists - cant ever see me going up to full frame:)
 
Are there any ladies out there who use a D7000? I have always struggled with the weight of the camera, however it was really shown this evening. I have just bought a Jessops flash which I used with my 50mm to take some quick portraits for practice. My right wrist was killing after 25 shots. I have a grip but unsure whether this will only add to the weight. Has anyone found a way of combating this??? Sarah

Sarah, I use the ladies black rapid strap (can't remember the exact model number, but they only do one ladies model) and find this really helps. To be honest, I don't really struggle with a small lens on my D7000. If I use my 70-200mm then I really feel that after an hour or two! The black rapid strap has definitely made a huge difference. I've never tried using a grip - I guess it will definitely add to the weight though:LOL:
 
So it's arrived. First impressions...

Nice box, gold gives you a sense of immense well-being. Also takes the sting off the £880 I've just spent. The charger is nice and compact compared to the bad boy for the D2x I've been using for years. User manual will remain sealed - seems straightforward enough setting it up.

Handling is a game of two halves, so to speak; in its own right it is chunky and very tactile, even if the rubber grips don't feature quite enough texture. However, seeing as I'm a D2x user (brilliant handling) it's a bit of a step down as such, but one that I'm sure I'll get used to quickly. Definitely going to have to get a grip for it though, especially for the 70-200mm, as it feels too small to support the lens in its current form.

Button layout is logical, although again, I'm going to have to get used to dedicated zoom buttons for image playback.

The D-pad is excellent, really positive... having an 'OK' button in the centre is great too.

In most areas, everything feels as well-made as my D2x, although I'm not keen on the D200-esque memory card door. I do love the dual cards slots though and the fact I can assign different tasks to each card. Plus, if I take the cards out and pout them in the wrong slots, the camera detects this and displays an ERR message... very clever.

Haven't tried it with flash yet - that's to come.

High ISO is excellent - very useable at 6400 for double-page spreads, that's at least three stops more than my D2x. ISO 100 is excellent, a must for strobist work.

Movie mode seems pretty straightforward; set aperture then jog the shutter speed dial for exposure adjustment if needs be (or use Auto ISO). Quality is good and I love the flick switch to get it into live view. The record button is in totally the wrong place though - it should be where the AE-l/AF-L button is.

AF is fast and although I've yet to look into AF fine-tuning for lenses, it's snappy and silent and I already love that, especially in low-contrast scenes such as indoors. AF in movie mode is okay at times, poor at others. I knew this would be the case though going by reviews and anyway, I'm looking forward to doing it in MF.

Massive screen - love it. Easy enough to set up blinks etc to show on image playback.

One massive bonus of it using SD cards (aside from the price - £10 for 16GB class 10) is the fact I don't need to do anything other than remove the card - my macbook pro has a built-in SD card reader... bonus :)

Disappointed they've binned the continuous AF function on the switch at the base of the lens mount but I can see they were tight in space.

No rubber on the base seems strange; not sure if there is rubber on the base of the grip but I see it as a bit of a strange ommission. Even if there were some small areas of rubber it would give grip when placed on flat surfaces.

Glad to see the FN button has the 'disable-flash' option, without doubt the most important custom function there is for what I shoot.

One thing I can't seem to work out iOS why on the top LCD there is no scale for exposure compensation..... the '+/-' sign comes up when using easy exposure comp and the scale shows in the viewfinder but not on the LCD.... seems a strange thing.

The viewfinder is okay but no way as good as the D2x for brightness, especially when wearing specs. But that's because there was a custom glass in the D2x - haven't looked into whether there are others to fit the D7000.

Although I bought it specifically for video (and as a back-up body) I can see myself using this a lot, especially in low light because of the good high ISO. I do know one thing though now..... both my D2x bodies are going because even if I don't replace my main D2x with one of these, I'll replace with a more modern Nikon (D700/D3) because AF has moved on by light years and ISO handling is soooo much better on later Nikons.
 
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specialman said:
Movie mode seems pretty straightforward; set aperture then jog the shutter speed dial for exposure adjustment if needs be (or use Auto ISO) . Quality is good and I love the flick switch to get it into live view. The record button is in totally the wrong place though - it should be where the AE-l/AF-L button is.

That's now how you control exposure with video, you need to keep the shutter speed at 1/40 or 1/50 when shooting 24fps to maintain the 180 shutter rule and alter ISO, aperture or NDs to get it right

The not being able to change aperture in live view is super annoying and one reason why two of my three lenses are AF-D non G style.

I would personally want the record button to be near the shutter button so I don't have to move my grip at all when trying to steady shots, I can believe Nikon never released a firmware update to address these issues, I'm thinking they much be mechanically impossible with the current design as the D800 and D4 both fixed the problems.
 
Movie mode seems pretty straightforward; set aperture then jog the shutter speed dial for exposure adjustment if needs be (or use Auto ISO). Quality is good and I love the flick switch to get it into live view. The record button is in totally the wrong place though - it should be where the AE-l/AF-L button is.

AF is fast and although I've yet to look into AF fine-tuning for lenses, it's snappy and silent and I already love that, especially in low-contrast scenes such as indoors. AF in movie mode is okay at times, poor at others. I knew this would be the case though going by reviews and anyway, I'm looking forward to doing it in MF.

Massive screen - love it. Easy enough to set up blinks etc to show on image playback.

One massive bonus of it using SD cards (aside from the price - £10 for 16GB class 10) is the fact I don't need to do anything other than remove the card - my macbook pro has a built-in SD card reader... bonus :)

Get at least 1 of the 45MB/s cards if you ever likely to use the 6FPS, the buffer performance is horrendous with class 10s.

Disappointed they've binned the continuous AF function on the switch at the base of the lens mount but I can see they were tight in space.

It's actually better the way the D7000 has it set up, enough so that the D800 and D4 have adopted the D7000 method. You push the little button inside the switch, and rotate the rear dial for AF mode (AF-S, AF-C, AF-A) and the front dial for number of points (1, 9, 21, 39, 3D, Auto), and the mode and points display in the viewfinder. So this way, you can control most of the things you need to for AF without ever taking your eye off the viewfinder.

No rubber on the base seems strange; not sure if there is rubber on the base of the grip but I see it as a bit of a strange ommission. Even if there were some small areas of rubber it would give grip when placed on flat surfaces.
Think that's one of the higher end things that gets omitted on this type of camera.

Hope you enjoy the camera!
 
I am close to obtaining one of these, I am trying to find out the shutter actuation number from the seller, but he doesnt know how to find it. Can anyone help?

Dont worry, sorted. Online checkers I take it? :)
 
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Dom7 said:
I am close to obtaining one of these, I am trying to find out the shutter actuation number from the seller, but he doesnt know how to find it. Can anyone help?

Dont worry, sorted. Online checkers I take it? :)

Yep, myshuttercount is a good bet :)
 
That's now how you control exposure with video, you need to keep the shutter speed at 1/40 or 1/50 when shooting 24fps to maintain the 180 shutter rule and alter ISO, aperture or NDs to get it right

The not being able to change aperture in live view is super annoying and one reason why two of my three lenses are AF-D non G style.

I would personally want the record button to be near the shutter button so I don't have to move my grip at all when trying to steady shots, I can believe Nikon never released a firmware update to address these issues, I'm thinking they much be mechanically impossible with the current design as the D800 and D4 both fixed the problems.

Cheers for that. I'd read about 1/50th (but not the 180 rule - will look into this) and thought it odd that shutter speed should be freed up to be changed throughout filming. I suppose it's a foible of the D7000's movie mode, as I've read lots of remarks about the lack of aperture control using 'G' lenses via the command dial. (y)


Get at least 1 of the 45MB/s cards if you ever likely to use the 6FPS, the buffer performance is horrendous with class 10s.

Had a go yesterday on burst and CH was no different to CL..... probably 3fps.....woeful really considering the rest of the camera seems so good. Will look into a few higher speed cards. I don't do much high speed stuff but it's nice being able to do a burst, especially for casting sequences that I am required to shoot now and then.

It's actually better the way the D7000 has it set up, enough so that the D800 and D4 have adopted the D7000 method. You push the little button inside the switch, and rotate the rear dial for AF mode (AF-S, AF-C, AF-A) and the front dial for number of points (1, 9, 21, 39, 3D, Auto), and the mode and points display in the viewfinder. So this way, you can control most of the things you need to for AF without ever taking your eye off the viewfinder.

I suppose this is something that is totally different on the D2x; focussing mode (M, AF, AF-C) controlled by the switch on the rear and the number of focussing points/groups decided by a switch on the rear, which means you never have to press a button....

Think that's one of the higher end things that gets omitted on this type of camera.

This is just a slight niggle, more because i'm a clumsy oaf who needs every bit of help to stop camera's being knocked off tables :LOL:

Hope you enjoy the camera!

Loving it already :)
 
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What cards are you using as i use about 8 of the 7dayshop cheapy class 10 16gb and get easily 6fps and roughly about 10-15 shots off the buffer before it slows down

No you don't, not at 6FPS in RAW. You'll get 10 in the buffer, you won't get 15 at 14 bit lossless RAW. The initial framerate has nothing to do with the card - the length of time that is sustained and the recovery time are what the card makes a difference for.

With 45MB/s cards, you can get 17 6FPS 12 bit compressed raw before the buffer fills, then 2 FPS. With class 10s it's 12 and then 1 FPS.

Not only that, with class 10s the buffer takes 15-25 seconds to clear (depending on which class 10). With the 45MB/s cards, the buffer goes from full to empty in 7. And if you're so inclined, you can shoot large fine JPEGs indefinitely with the 45MB/s cards, can't with the 10s.
 
I wonder how to test my 90Mb/s card :)
 
No you don't, not at 6FPS in RAW. You'll get 10 in the buffer, you won't get 15 at 14 bit lossless RAW. The initial framerate has nothing to do with the card - the length of time that is sustained and the recovery time are what the card makes a difference for.

With 45MB/s cards, you can get 17 6FPS 12 bit compressed raw before the buffer fills, then 2 FPS. With class 10s it's 12 and then 1 FPS.

Not only that, with class 10s the buffer takes 15-25 seconds to clear (depending on which class 10). With the 45MB/s cards, the buffer goes from full to empty in 7. And if you're so inclined, you can shoot large fine JPEGs indefinitely with the 45MB/s cards, can't with the 10s.

Like I said roughly 10-15, as I don't have the manual I can't read the specs off the top of my head. I'm using class 10 cards and I guarantee to you that unless you are shooting high speed sports you won't have an issue at all. I am shooting a doc at the moment and class 10 cards work perfect for recording HD video so unless you are a sports shooter I wouldn't fork out for the more expensive cards, and if you're a sports shooter the D7000 isn't the best camera for the job anyway. :D
 
Had a go yesterday on burst and CH was no different to CL..... probably 3fps.....woeful really considering the rest of the camera seems so good. Will look into a few higher speed cards. I don't do much high speed stuff but it's nice being able to do a burst, especially for casting sequences that I am required to shoot now and then.

Loving it already :)

Was the camera in focus or release priority? In focus priority it will not fire if it has not acquired focus, and it does a focus check between each shot. That can kill the FPS quite easily.

CL can be set to between 1 and 5 FPS, is set to 3 by default.

Like I said roughly 10-15, as I don't have the manual I can't read the specs off the top of my head. I'm using class 10 cards and I guarantee to you that unless you are shooting high speed sports you won't have an issue at all. I am shooting a doc at the moment and class 10 cards work perfect for recording HD video so unless you are a sports shooter I wouldn't fork out for the more expensive cards, and if you're a sports shooter the D7000 isn't the best camera for the job anyway. :D

It's almost as if you didn't read what I wrote :p
if you ever likely to use the 6FPS, the buffer performance is horrendous with class 10s.
If you're going to use the continuous burst on a regular basis, the 22 second clearing time is absolutely an issue. Of course the class 10s work well for video, video uses low reliably sustained datarates, not high burst datarates.

As for sports, IMO the D7000 is the best DX camera Nikon makes for sports. AF is as good as the D300s tracking wakeboarders, bikes, rugby and capoeira (though not the D700 or D3/s) and it has far better low light performance. The buffer issues go away if you use 12 bit compressed + 45MB/s cards, and in that case the only thing you lose out on is 2 FPS to a gripped D300s.

In other news, got

:D by ausemmao, on Flickr

yesterday, and it's every bit as awesome as expected. It's funny sitting it next to the PC-E, but they both definitely have their uses. :D
 
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Has anyone used a D7000 (unmodified) for IR shots?

Logic says that by hot mirrors would be super IR resistant, but there's photo's on Flickr that suggest otherwise, although they don't specify whether the cameras were modified or not?
 
Is that the 24mm f1.4 by any chance?
Hmmmm, nice...

Yup. Spent ages trying to tell myself I "didn't need it because I have a 24mm already". You can see how well that worked. :LOL:


Has anyone used a D7000 (unmodified) for IR shots?

Logic says that by hot mirrors would be super IR resistant, but there's photo's on Flickr that suggest otherwise, although they don't specify whether the cameras were modified or not?

IIRC most hot mirrors do not block 100% of incident IR (brickwall filters are hard to make). So you should be able to do IR exposures, but you'll need a filter that blocks visible light and passes IR, and longish exposures.
 
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I've tried IR using the IR filters, but it acts like a "big stopper", ND32 or more, never measured the difference , but I have noticed it blocks more IR than the D5000 did, so I need longer exposures.
For quick peeks in IR i use a compact which has no IR blocking at all and just hold the IR filter in front of the lens for "live view" in IR. Shame its only a 2Mb camera.
 
Anyone have a non-nikon right angle finder - what dya recommend (make supplier etc) several on amazon , are they anygood for use on 7000 with copy stand?
 
Hey,

So I was shooting some video on the d7000 a couple of days ago.

Set it to 24fps HQ 1080p.

Noticed when playing back in quicktime that when the camera pans, there was serious juddering in the frame rate....not impressed! Anyone know of this or how to sort it out?
 
wil said:
Hey,

So I was shooting some video on the d7000 a couple of days ago.

Set it to 24fps HQ 1080p.

Noticed when playing back in quicktime that when the camera pans, there was serious juddering in the frame rate....not impressed! Anyone know of this or how to sort it out?

Is this different to the rolling shutter "jelly wobble" artefact that all DSLRs suffer from?
 
Hi, looking for some advice on Thinktank Photo Urban Disguise 35 V2.0.
It will be holding D7000 with grip, 18-200mm, 10-20mm, 50mm prime, SB800, MacBook Pro 13"
Reviews show it will hold my kit no problem & when I finally get the 70-200 2.8 that too, does anyone use this bag?
 
1. Whats the latest on 3rd party batteries ? or best price for nikon ones.

2. I have a nikon chipped samyang 1.4 85mm - do i need to plug this into the d7000 as a non cpu lens or a cpu lens (it does register exposure but it is a manual focus)
 
If it is metering and providing you with the correct aperture when you are changing the aperture then all is fine nothing else to do...
 
Thanks for that - the samyang is a great lens, even though its manual focus it is very sharp. Next point i (wifey for my birthday) have some money to burn (spend i mean) what is the very sharpest zoom (nikon sigma et al) as a street, travel lens with 25 - 70 or thereabouts available for £600 or less or maybe a tad more for something exceptional!!!!!
 
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