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The max 100 is the max before it stops regardless of buffer!
If for instance you are shooting continuous 30 sec exposures for star trails your buffer won't max out but the exposures will stop at 100.
Nikon D7xxx owners thread
- Thread starter tim_uk
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The max 100 is the max before it stops regardless of buffer!
If for instance you are shooting continuous 30 sec exposures for star trails your buffer won't max out but the exposures will stop at 100.
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- Ivan
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You can, but the quality has to be set to jpeg Basic and S size, I get a buffer of 99
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- Will
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Just checked, it's set to 100 in the menu but definitely only firing 14 until it fills the buffer. I genuinely don't know what the 100 shot limit is for if the buffer can't get near that.
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Set it to Jpeg Basic and set the size to S, use both dials while changing the quality setting
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- Will
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The max 100 is the max before it stops regardless of buffer!
If for instance you are shooting continuous 30 sec exposures for star trails your buffer won't max out but the exposures will stop at 100.
Ah, that figures
Set it to Jpeg Basic and set the size to S, use both dials while changing the quality setting
You're right, thanks for that
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The key is to look at the ' r' number in the view finger when the shutter is half pressed. It will show you how many shots you can take.
When it gets down to 1/0 the buffer runs out and things get slow.
In my case it shows r08, so I just ensure I let the buffer empty and shoot with small pauses between every 6/7 burst shots.
I shoot exclusively in 14-Bit RAW at the best settings incl lens correction enabled.
Riz
When it gets down to 1/0 the buffer runs out and things get slow.
In my case it shows r08, so I just ensure I let the buffer empty and shoot with small pauses between every 6/7 burst shots.
I shoot exclusively in 14-Bit RAW at the best settings incl lens correction enabled.
Riz
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To be fare to him the manual on page 320 does show 100 shots for all jpeg settings except jpeg fine large size that is 31 shots. Raw (NEF) files is 10-15 depending on settings. The data shown in the manual is based upon a SanDisk 8gb extreme SDHC memory card. The card speed could be the reason here, the buffer acts as storage until the image has been written to the memory card. The faster the memory card can write the long the buffer takes to fill up. If you you use a slow card then the buffer fills up faster and eventually runs out of storage space.
Willienium, what card were you using in the test?
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The key is to look at the ' r' number in the view finger when the shutter is half pressed. It will show you how many shots you can take.
When it gets down to 1/0 the buffer runs out and things get slow.
In my case it shows r08, so I just ensure I let the buffer empty and shoot with small pauses between every 6/7 burst shots.
I shoot exclusively in 14-Bit RAW at the best settings incl lens correction enabled.
Riz
Thanks Ive learnt something new (r number in the viewfinder). I've just done a test at 12-bit lossless compressed NEF files and got 11 images before running out of buffer, the same as the manual. Buffer in viewfinder said says r-11 before starting (smaller size files than Rizvan)
I'm also one for shooting small bursts, probably around 5 images at a time so Ive never experienced hitting the buffer image. Think of it this way at least you get more consecutive images than on a D7100, I've just tried the same test on the D7100 (with the same settings) and got 6-7 images before hitting the buffer. Thankfully this doesn't bother me as I don't shot more than 5-6 consecutive shots in burst mode.
The key is to look at the ' r' number in the view finger when the shutter is half pressed. It will show you how many shots you can take.
When it gets down to 1/0 the buffer runs out and things get slow.
In my case it shows r08, so I just ensure I let the buffer empty and shoot with small pauses between every 6/7 burst shots.
I shoot exclusively in 14-Bit RAW at the best settings incl lens correction enabled.
Riz
That's something I wanted to find out about - does anyone have a processing flowchart, so I can see what processing is applied to RAW files?
I assume RAW bypasses everything, but I could be wrong...
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Just talking about buffer size on the D7000 page and it made me look up the difference between normal dx mode and 1.3 crop mode. I've always been happy about the buffer size and knew the possible issue before buying the D7100. Its interesting to read that the dx to 1.3 crop mode increases number of shots from 7-12 before the buffer fills (NEF 12-bit lossless compressed).
I've never tested it before but the 1.3 crop mode does make a difference by nearly doubling consecutive frames captured before hitting the buffer. I will probably now use the dx mode more often if I need speed and more buffer capacity.
I've never tested it before but the 1.3 crop mode does make a difference by nearly doubling consecutive frames captured before hitting the buffer. I will probably now use the dx mode more often if I need speed and more buffer capacity.
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If you're shooting raw only (so not raw + jpeg) then turn off all the extras like active lighting and lens correction. Those are applied in the conversion to jpeg. All your doing is spending buffer on the preview image that's thrown away as soon a you hit the computer.
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I tend to use the crop mode for this very reason. When photographing these Hobbies I knew all the shots would need to be cropped anyway and the extra buffer capacity would be very useful.
Hobby flyby by NikonNigel, on Flickr
The only drawback is you run the risk of not keeping the subject in frame, especially if it suddenly comes closer than you expect. This image was taken in the 1.3 crop mode and is full frame, somehow I managed to keep the bird in the frame.
It's in the claws..... by NikonNigel, on Flickr
p.s.
Don't forget, it also save a bit of space on your hard drive as the file size is smaller.
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As posted before i recently got the 70-200 2.8 vr1, ive never normally been a lens snob but i have also got the sigma 70-200 2.8 non os.
You can tell the difference and the sigma has just come back from a major service and repair.
The quality in the images is so plain to see. I appreciate there is a major price difference in the 2 lenses but why soend all that money on a body to have its image quality let down.
There is also the option with sigma build quality but still im glad i was fortunate to be able to get the vr1 version. Hate to think how much better the vr2 version is lol
You can tell the difference and the sigma has just come back from a major service and repair.
The quality in the images is so plain to see. I appreciate there is a major price difference in the 2 lenses but why soend all that money on a body to have its image quality let down.
There is also the option with sigma build quality but still im glad i was fortunate to be able to get the vr1 version. Hate to think how much better the vr2 version is lol
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Well my camera came back today and they've sent me a new body
Not had chance to use it yet but very happy with the service. I bought my camera from pixel_deals on eBay which I think has something to do with hdew cameras although I could be wrong?
Not had chance to use it yet but very happy with the service. I bought my camera from pixel_deals on eBay which I think has something to do with hdew cameras although I could be wrong?
Me also, just can't make up my mind if I want to continue with DX as I only use my D700 these days and my D90 sits in the drawer
It'd make a great 2nd body to my D700.
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Can someone help me with file naming/numbering?
I have my memory cards set to RAW only and card slot 2 to act as overflow
It seems like when the images start to overflow the image counter number restarts at 1 rather than continuing from whatever the last image number of card slot 1 was
Is there anyway to set this up so the numbering continues between the two cards? And is there any way to fix the file naming/numbering of the ones that have already overflowed to card slot 2?
I have my memory cards set to RAW only and card slot 2 to act as overflow
It seems like when the images start to overflow the image counter number restarts at 1 rather than continuing from whatever the last image number of card slot 1 was
Is there anyway to set this up so the numbering continues between the two cards? And is there any way to fix the file naming/numbering of the ones that have already overflowed to card slot 2?
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I guess you mean the counter shown on the LCD screen? The image files are stored on the memory cards in folders, i think with a maximum of 999 image files per folder. You can have more than one folder on each memory card. The counter is reset to 1 each time a new folder is created. I would guess as it changes from one memory card to the other memory card a new folder is created on the 2nd memory card, hence the numbering appearing to reset back to 1. You would now have images stored on two memory cards, each within a separate folder on each card rather than the same folder on both cards if that makes sense.
You can start a new folder too by selecting a new folder number in the shooting menu. This could be helpful if you were shooting to separate events or wanted to separate the folders where the images are stored on the memory card. I would guess this would help if a single folder on a memory card was corrupted, it would mean losing only the images stored in that folder rather than all images.
Its confused me a few times but as far as Ive seen the actual image file name shown on a computer carries on in the numerical sequence so its not bothered me.
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Ok...yeah I realised I was a bit confused. You are right the actual image numbering in the file name continues. I was looking at the image viewer on the camera and when it got to the second card it was showing on the LCD screen 100-1 100-2 etc.....which I suppose is fine when you realise it's not the actual image file name count but just an indication of the sequence on that particular card slot
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Well my camera came back today and they've sent me a new body
Not had chance to use it yet but very happy with the service. I bought my camera from pixel_deals on eBay which I think has something to do with hdew cameras although I could be wrong?
Looks like you're getting a better deal than me. I bought legit U.K Vat paid stock and mines got to go back for repair. Nikon are quoting 3-4weeks.
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Ok...yeah I realised I was a bit confused. You are right the actual image numbering in the file name continues. I was looking at the image viewer on the camera and when it got to the second card it was showing on the LCD screen 100-1 100-2 etc.....which I suppose is fine when you realise it's not the actual image file name count but just an indication of the sequence on that particular card slot
The 100-1 means folder 100, image file 1 in that particular folder. You could have more folders 101, 102,103 etc on one memory card too if you have a large number of photos (thousands) on one card or if you start a new folder before one is full. I can understand your confusion its got me before.
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Hello,
I'm trying to do a macro using a 18-200 VR II but for some reason camera won't focus that close ?! It's a non moving object and I've tried to use a 12-24 but no luck either ?! What am I doing wrong?
Thanks a lot in advance.
I'm trying to do a macro using a 18-200 VR II but for some reason camera won't focus that close ?! It's a non moving object and I've tried to use a 12-24 but no luck either ?! What am I doing wrong?
Thanks a lot in advance.
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Neither lens is a macro lens - rent a macro lens from lens locker?
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I know, but when I had a canon 40d with a 24-105 and that wasn't a macro lens either. But still able to focus very close with it.
I thought maybe they're some other settings on my d7000 I didn't know about.
Lenses have varying close-focus distances.
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You can get reasonably close with the 18-200 but obviously not macro level. I recently bought a close-up filter to try (+10) but it was OTT. I'd be tempted to try a +2 or a +4 which may be a bit more appropriate for the lens but it may be just as bad. I have a +4 which fits my 50mm 1.8D and works quite well.
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Iam tempted to take the plunge on this despite the varied focus issues,
Not sure about these retailers though:|
http://www.procamerashop.co.uk/cameras/nikon/nikon-d7100-digital-slr-camera-body.html
http://www.eglobaldigitalstore.co.uk/nikon-d7100-body-only-digital-slr-cameras.html
Not sure about these retailers though:|
http://www.procamerashop.co.uk/cameras/nikon/nikon-d7100-digital-slr-camera-body.html
http://www.eglobaldigitalstore.co.uk/nikon-d7100-body-only-digital-slr-cameras.html
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Confused regarding AF area mode in AF-C.
Hello fellow TP'ers
I've never used AF-C but used it the other day when shooting a football game. I set the area mode to show 9 focal points in an attempt to keep the players in focus. The top panel on the camera showed that the 9 points had been selected but the viewfinder only showed one point even when following the movement of the subject.
Focus was achieved but I expected all the nine points to be shown and highlighted in the viewfinder.
I've read through the manual and I'm sure that I've done what should be done but have I
missed something ?
Any help would be gratefully accepted
regards
NN
Hello fellow TP'ers
I've never used AF-C but used it the other day when shooting a football game. I set the area mode to show 9 focal points in an attempt to keep the players in focus. The top panel on the camera showed that the 9 points had been selected but the viewfinder only showed one point even when following the movement of the subject.
Focus was achieved but I expected all the nine points to be shown and highlighted in the viewfinder.
I've read through the manual and I'm sure that I've done what should be done but have I
missed something ?
Any help would be gratefully accepted
regards
NN
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Norm, I think you only see the central point of the nine in the viewfinder. The other 8 will come into play if the subject "wanders" slightly off centre giving a better chance of achieving focus but they don't illuminate.
That's how I understand it anyway, maybe completely mistaken though
That's how I understand it anyway, maybe completely mistaken though
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Norm, I think you only see the central point of the nine in the viewfinder. The other 8 will come into play if the subject "wanders" slightly off centre giving a better chance of achieving focus but they don't illuminate.
That's how I understand it anyway, maybe completely mistaken though
I'm certain Phil1974 is correct Norm. I remember picking up the D7000 for the first time in Jessops last December. The viewfinder lit up like a Christmas tree! I though "I gotta get one of these!!!"
Anyway, a couple of months into my ownership, I remembered about it lighting up in the shop but not on my camera. I messed around for days trying to get it to light up then I realised the the body in the shop was on Auto and I had started on Manual from day one.
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Thank you Phil and Jesus - you reflect the true spirit of this forum - friendly support and help when it's needed.
I'm tempted to have another bash at this football mullarky - blood and sand it's not easy! how the pro shooters get the type of shots that are seen in the newspapers is beyond me, thank you for your help.
regards
NN.
I'm tempted to have another bash at this football mullarky - blood and sand it's not easy! how the pro shooters get the type of shots that are seen in the newspapers is beyond me, thank you for your help.
regards
NN.
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It might be a credit to your 'aiming' that you keep the tastiest subject in the centre? In other words the other eight points aren't coming into play.
Maybe.
I wasn't to happy with it's choice on fish in a river (the water surface was more attractive to the AF) so I set it to centre afterwards. I'm sure footy is different.
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- Dave
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Its an interesting experiment to set the camera to show the actual focus point after you have taken the shot on the lcd.
You will only ever see the one point in these modes, the one point is what you are using to focus the subject, I think you are confusing it with 3d tracking.
If you select 9 point, the other points around it will assist the focus point by analysing small movement details, it also provides additional contrast information to the main focus point.
If you move the single point from your subject, it will focus on something else. This is all described in the manual.
The debate will come down to whether af-c really helps for shooting this kind of thing because the subject is unpredictable and your lens may be slow at re-focusing, something like motor sports however is generally more predictable.
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Thank you all for your replies, sometimes the information in the manual isn't user friendly and can be difficult to put into practise.
I'm going to have another go at shooting football tomorrow if and when it stops raining - it is a Bank Holiday remember!!!
I'm going to have another go at shooting football tomorrow if and when it stops raining - it is a Bank Holiday remember!!!
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I went with eglobal £716 with a 32gb sd card and lens pen,arrived in 5 days had a little bit of chow with the import duty but was refunded and given an extra £10 offJust waiting for the battery to charge and the sun to come out so I can play with it
Just waiting for the battery to charge and the sun to come out so I can play with it