Nikon Z* mirrorless

Anyone have experience of using the newer version Tamron 17-35mm lens on Z bodies with the FTZii.?... SWMBO has opened her purse and okayed a ZF for me at the end of the month. I was planning on keeping the 12-28mm I have for the ZFC/Z8 but as I'll be selling the ZFC I don't think there's much point in keeping the DX lens anymore with two FF bodies.

I cant afford the 14-30 or 17-28mm lenses at present and the Tamron 17-35mm would only be used for occasional use.
 
Anyone have experience of using the newer version Tamron 17-35mm lens on Z bodies with the FTZii.?... SWMBO has opened her purse and okayed a ZF for me at the end of the month. I was planning on keeping the 12-28mm I have for the ZFC/Z8 but as I'll be selling the ZFC I don't think there's much point in keeping the DX lens anymore with two FF bodies.

I cant afford the 14-30 or 17-28mm lenses at present and the Tamron 17-35mm would only be used for occasional use.
I had an early iteration of this lens when I first bought into Z cameras, the Z6. Optically it was fine, but personally I found it a bit clunky and out-of-balance with the FTZ. As indeed I find more or less any lens using the adaptor.
 
Anyone have experience of using the newer version Tamron 17-35mm lens on Z bodies with the FTZii.?... SWMBO has opened her purse and okayed a ZF for me at the end of the month. I was planning on keeping the 12-28mm I have for the ZFC/Z8 but as I'll be selling the ZFC I don't think there's much point in keeping the DX lens anymore with two FF bodies.

I cant afford the 14-30 or 17-28mm lenses at present and the Tamron 17-35mm would only be used for occasional use.
I used an F mount Tamron 17-35 OSD quite a bit on a Z8 with FTZ2 and had reasonably decent results with it before I bit the bullet and bought a Z mount WA zoom late last year. Used mostly on a tripod for landscapes. Anything in particular you want to know?
 
I had an early iteration of this lens when I first bought into Z cameras, the Z6. Optically it was fine, but personally I found it a bit clunky and out-of-balance with the FTZ. As indeed I find more or less any lens using the adaptor.
I had a older version on my then D750 and for the price it performed okay. I'm looking at the OSD version now.
I used an F mount Tamron 17-35 OSD quite a bit on a Z8 with FTZ2 and had reasonably decent results with it before I bit the bullet and bought a Z mount WA zoom late last year. Used mostly on a tripod for landscapes. Anything in particular you want to know?
I don't mind using the FTZ as I use my Sigma ART 24-35 f2 a lot with it. Although heavy, for the amount of times I do use it the weight becomes a little bit more bearable.

I just want to know what the IQ is like with the lens, AF etc.... I would guess I will use it more on the ZF when I get it rather than my Z8....Was there any particular reason why you moved to the Z mount version lens?

Thanks both for your replies.
 
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I had a older version on my then D750 and for the price it performed okay. I'm looking at the OSD version now.

I don't mind using the FTZ as I use my Sigma ART 24-35 f2 a lot with it. Although heavy, for the amount of times I do use it though the weight becomes a little bit more bearable.

I just want to know what the IQ is like with the lens, AF etc.... I would guess I will use it more on the ZF when I get it rather than my Z8....Was there any particular reason why you moved to the Z mount version lens?

Thanks both for your replies.
AF is really good, fast and accurate but then that's my experience with every lens I've tried with the FTZ. Image quality is a little more subjective - reasonably decent I'd say, but it doesn't render as nicely as either the better WA Nikon F or Z mount lenses I've used. That said, it isn't an expensive lens and I do think it punches above it's weight in that regard. I swapped because I wanted something wider and because I didn't find the Tamron that great wide open for astro/night stuff
 
AF is really good, fast and accurate but then that's my experience with every lens I've tried with the FTZ. Image quality is a little more subjective - reasonably decent I'd say, but it doesn't render as nicely as either the better WA Nikon F or Z mount lenses I've used. That said, it isn't an expensive lens and I do think it punches above it's weight in that regard. I swapped because I wanted something wider and because I didn't find the Tamron that great wide open for astro/night stuff
Which WA angle did you decide to get, I guess the f2.8 version for your Astro/Night stuff....Looking at the finances again I could probably push for the 14-30mm F4 Z lens second-hand. Bit undecided for the amount of WA stuff I photo. I'm Ambulant disabled so most of my photos are taken from my mobility scooter and I will never climb mountains any time soon.

If I went for the Tamron I can then buy a 70-300mm lens as lighter option to my 70-200mm f2.8 for holidays.

Decisions decisions and impatient.:D
 
Which WA angle did you decide to get, I guess the f2.8 version for your Astro/Night stuff....Looking at the finances again I could probably push for the 14-30mm F4 Z lens second-hand. Bit undecided for the amount of WA stuff I photo. I'm Ambulant disabled so most of my photos are taken from my mobility scooter and I will never climb mountains any time soon.

If I went for the Tamron I can then buy a 70-300mm lens as lighter option to my 70-200mm f2.8 for holidays.

Decisions decisions and impatient.:D
I went for the 14-24 2.8 Z in the end after a lot of procrastination. It's a lovely lens and the filter solution is really well implemented, the only issue with it being that the filters are huge and therefore costly. If it hadn't been for wanting to do more astro photography I'd likely have settled for the 14-30
 
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Hi

Sorry I have a question which may be a stupid question but going to ask it anyway.....

So I have a Z6ii, when shooting in AP or Manual in Matrix metering mode, I put the focus point on the subject, half press the shutter and recompose, when I do this the exposure changes.

Should I be moving the focus point to the subject and taking the picture as opposed to focus and recompose? Or is there another setting that I need to change on the body?

I hope the question makes sense.

Thank you
 
Hi

Sorry I have a question which may be a stupid question but going to ask it anyway.....

So I have a Z6ii, when shooting in AP or Manual in Matrix metering mode, I put the focus point on the subject, half press the shutter and recompose, when I do this the exposure changes.

Should I be moving the focus point to the subject and taking the picture as opposed to focus and recompose? Or is there another setting that I need to change on the body?

I hope the question makes sense.

Thank you
Matrix ignores the focus spot, it’s taking the whole frame to calculate the exposure, you might want to use exposure lock function if you want to hold the original exposure while recomposing or if you are comfortable with it, use full manual mode including ISO
 
I went for the 14-24 2.8 Z in the end after a lot of procrastination. It's a lovely lens and the filter solution is really well implemented, the only issue with it being that the filters are huge and therefore costly. If it hadn't been for wanting to do more astro photography I'd likely have settled for the 14-30
Thanks for the reply Si.
 
Which WA angle did you decide to get, I guess the f2.8 version for your Astro/Night stuff....Looking at the finances again I could probably push for the 14-30mm F4 Z lens second-hand. Bit undecided for the amount of WA stuff I photo. I'm Ambulant disabled so most of my photos are taken from my mobility scooter and I will never climb mountains any time soon.

If I went for the Tamron I can then buy a 70-300mm lens as lighter option to my 70-200mm f2.8 for holidays.

Decisions decisions and impatient.:D

Another 14-24mm user here, also with future astro stuff in mind, but went a different route for filters.

My filter collection has built up extensively over the years, mainly for long exposure landscapes, so I have been invested in a 100mm square system for quite some time. Most of the filter system companies supply a 14-24mm adapter to use what you already have, so for me, I spent less than £25 and carried on as usual.

This option doesn't seem to be discussed anywhere near as often as putting 112mm filters in a different hood and I'm not sure why. People used to knock the previous 14-24mm as you needed a bigger 150mm square system at great cost just for that lens but most seem happy at buying expensive round 112mm filters at great cost for the new lens, go figure! You also have many, many more options if you want them.

Whilst square systems don't seem to be trendy anymore, some of us still like to use the odd grad filter every now and then and if you still have an older square system, it's a far cheaper solution to just buy an adapter. If you took advantage of the recent offer to get the 14-24mm for £1499 with the usual price of the 14-30mm being £1299 then the difference would have been negligible for a far better lens.

Downsides? A little vignetting with 3x filters at 14-15mm, gone at 16mm

Upsides? Possible to use polariser, grad and 'big stopper' at the same time on probably every lens you need it to.

Food for thought?!
 
Another 14-24mm user here, also with future astro stuff in mind, but went a different route for filters.

My filter collection has built up extensively over the years, mainly for long exposure landscapes, so I have been invested in a 100mm square system for quite some time. Most of the filter system companies supply a 14-24mm adapter to use what you already have, so for me, I spent less than £25 and carried on as usual.

This option doesn't seem to be discussed anywhere near as often as putting 112mm filters in a different hood and I'm not sure why. People used to knock the previous 14-24mm as you needed a bigger 150mm square system at great cost just for that lens but most seem happy at buying expensive round 112mm filters at great cost for the new lens, go figure! You also have many, many more options if you want them.

Whilst square systems don't seem to be trendy anymore, some of us still like to use the odd grad filter every now and then and if you still have an older square system, it's a far cheaper solution to just buy an adapter. If you took advantage of the recent offer to get the 14-24mm for £1499 with the usual price of the 14-30mm being £1299 then the difference would have been negligible for a far better lens.

Downsides? A little vignetting with 3x filters at 14-15mm, gone at 16mm

Upsides? Possible to use polariser, grad and 'big stopper' at the same time on probably every lens you need it to.

Food for thought?!
Seems to be an awful lot of glass/acetate to put in front of a quality lens ;) :)
 
Matrix ignores the focus spot, it’s taking the whole frame to calculate the exposure, you might want to use exposure lock function if you want to hold the original exposure while recomposing or if you are comfortable with it, use full manual mode including ISO
Thank you for the heads up on this. Have set the AF-L button to use to lock AE.
 
Seems to be an awful lot of glass/acetate to put in front of a quality lens ;) :)
Maybe, I've never used all three at once, maximum of 2 normally but I've spent a lot of money over the years specifically to avoid any problems.

As an example, I read an article that showed that resin filters can reduce sharpness by around 15-20% and the Big Stopper did have a huge colour cast I could never quite get perfect results with. As soon as I understood that, I sold off my Lee Filters kit (bought because 'they are the best'), replacing them with high quality glass grad filters and NDs with no colour cast (at the time HiTech Firecrest).

This also gave me more options, so as well as the 10 stop, I've added 3,6,13 & 16 stop filters too. At around a hundred quid a pop it took a while to build it up so you can see why I was determined to use them all on the 14-24mm. Chatting about this has reminded me that I never bought that reverse grad I was thinking about and looking at the Hitech site just now I've learned that you can now get 18, 20 22 and even 24 stop filters now, yikes! Thinking about it out loud just now, I'm guessing a lot of my filters aren't even available in that 112mm size.

The filter holder system that I've ended up with and is rarely talked about is the Cokin NX system. Systems like these are based around putting square filters in frames so that you don't get fingers prints all over them, circular polarisers have a wheel on the side to adjust, and this one specifically is design to be as thin as possible with a thin polariser too. It's highly recommend and the adapter for the 14-24mm is only around the £25 mark. Well worth a look.
 
Gary gough done a Test on three different 10 stop filters a lee one , and one for about £50 and a £10 one think it was called a pig iron he couldnt see any difference in all three but the £10 one was more like 11 stops , i have a set of three nd filters think they 95mm but are a pain to screw on and off , ive now bought a 3d printer and have printed. A slot in holder for them works great . And have printed an adptor to use the them on a canon 17-85 which works fine
 
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No major camera/lens acquisitions for me these days, since the 135/1.8 Plena I bought myself as a Christmas present. I am concentrating on flash gear renewal with a big move from Phottix to Godox.

I basically have all the lenses I need, until Nikon decides to launch native Z-mount tilt-shifts. On the camera front, I am waiting for the next iteration of the Z7 II, which according to Nikon Rumors, should be coming but not anytime soon. The Z8 and Z9 would do nothing for me that the Z7 II doesn’t do (and better).
 
Why's that, Trevor?
Something about the way it feels. I loved my original Z6. I knew that this was a bit bigger and ordered anyway. I wanted the latest AF. Including subject recognition. Wanted the SPAM dial with U1-U3. It’s a fabulous camera. I’m gonna give it the benefit of the doubt for a while. So far I’ve picked it up three times and used it once.
We’ll see how it goes. Might visit a camera shop and have a feel of Z50 ii
 
I've deffo decided that my Z6 III is a keeper and much better overall than my Z6 II. I'm doing more and more video now, and I'm just finding the footage crisper, better colour depth (10 bit) and better frame rates. The IBIS is also by a measure better. The slight size increase doesn't bother me (it's certainly much smaller and lighter than my Z8). The only thing I'm not sold on is the viewfinder. Not to say it's bad, but coming from my Z7 II, Z9 and Z8 all with the paltry 3mp viewfinders, I expected more from the 5mp on the Z6 III, but just not seeing it. Having said that it's no worse of course than the other models (and they, given their relatively low resolution, are simply cracking, with zero lag.) At least the quality of the viewfinder doesn't go to a low res mode whilst focussing like it does on my A7RV :)

One thing that really does bug me on the Nikon Z bodies though is that you can't truly separate your shooting and video settings like you can on Sony (except on my Z9). For instance on my Z8 if I set up a user bank when in photo mode, and then change the settings in video mode and save to the same user slot, the shooting mode (PASM), isn't independent but it taken from the last time set (whether it be in photo or shooting mode). I really wish when flicking across to video mode everything was separated including the shooting mode (that damned A6700 and A7RV has been spoiling me).
 
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One thing that really does bug me on the Nikon Z bodies though is that you can't truly separate your shooting and video settings like you can on Sony (except on my Z9). For instance on my Z8 if I set up a user bank when in photo mode, and then change the settings in video mode and save to the same user slot, the shooting mode (PASM), isn't independent but it taken from the last time set (whether it be in photo or shooting mode). I really wish when flicking across to video mode everything was separated including the shooting mode (that damned A6700 and A7RV has been spoiling me).
Yep totally agree, was a little shocked by this... flicking from photos to videos for wildlife, sometimes there isn't long to change everything, like going from 1/2500 for a still, then wanting 1/250th for a 120p video, and of course everything else that needs changing with it.
can you not use a whole bank for video ? - so you have to flick from photo to video and load the bank with the 'I menu'. and all your PASM settings therefore update too? would be pretty quick,

Admittedly you only have 4 banks, so doubling them up for video is not great, but as they are stored on the memory cards im guessing a work around is you could store different settings on each card - therefore having 8 saved banks all the time.
 
I've deffo decided that my Z6 III is a keeper and much better overall than my Z6 II. I'm doing more and more video now, and I'm just finding the footage crisper, better colour depth (10 bit) and better frame rates. The IBIS is also by a measure better. The slight size increase doesn't bother me (it's certainly much smaller and lighter than my Z8). The only thing I'm not sold on is the viewfinder. Not to say it's bad, but coming from my Z7 II, Z9 and Z8 all with the paltry 3mp viewfinders, I expected more from the 5mp on the Z6 III, but just not seeing it. Having said that it's no worse of course than the other models (and they, given their relatively low resolution, are simply cracking, with zero lag.) At least the quality of the viewfinder doesn't go to a low res mode whilst focussing like it does on my A7RV :)

One thing that really does bug me on the Nikon Z bodies though is that you can't truly separate your shooting and video settings like you can on Sony (except on my Z9). For instance on my Z8 if I set up a user bank when in photo mode, and then change the settings in video mode and save to the same user slot, the shooting mode (PASM), isn't independent but it taken from the last time set (whether it be in photo or shooting mode). I really wish when flicking across to video mode everything was separated including the shooting mode (that damned A6700 and A7RV has been spoiling me).
There is a lot of firmware tidying up needed by Nikon as all the Expeed 7 models (Z9, Z8, Z6III, Zf and Z50II) have different limitations and capabilities. For example the Z50II is the only model that you can save FPS settings,and the Z50II has bird AF, but the Z6III and Zf don't.

I can't remember other examples, but reading the reviews as each new model came out has highlighted differences that suggest firmware updates being needed for the existing models.
 
Something about the way it feels. I loved my original Z6. I knew that this was a bit bigger and ordered anyway. I wanted the latest AF. Including subject recognition. Wanted the SPAM dial with U1-U3. It’s a fabulous camera. I’m gonna give it the benefit of the doubt for a while. So far I’ve picked it up three times and used it once.
We’ll see how it goes. Might visit a camera shop and have a feel of Z50 ii
It is always about the 'way it feels in your hands' in my selection process.
 
Something about the way it feels. I loved my original Z6. I knew that this was a bit bigger and ordered anyway. I wanted the latest AF. Including subject recognition. Wanted the SPAM dial with U1-U3. It’s a fabulous camera. I’m gonna give it the benefit of the doubt for a while. So far I’ve picked it up three times and used it once.
We’ll see how it goes. Might visit a camera shop and have a feel of Z50 ii

Why is that? I was considering adding one alongside my Z8, interested to hear your opinions and why you are considering selling?
 
Great newson the Zf. I recently added the Z6iii. Not sure it’s a keeper.
Shame the Z6iii isn't a possible keeper.

I bought the ZFC twin lens kit as a lighter travel alternative to my Z8 but found it was too small for me even with a grip. I know the ZF isn't much bigger than the ZFC but I'm hoping it will sit better in the hand. I have ordered the Haoge grip for the ZF, I had the Neewer one on the ZFC.
 
I've deffo decided that my Z6 III is a keeper and much better overall than my Z6 II. I'm doing more and more video now, and I'm just finding the footage crisper, better colour depth (10 bit) and better frame rates. The IBIS is also by a measure better. The slight size increase doesn't bother me (it's certainly much smaller and lighter than my Z8). The only thing I'm not sold on is the viewfinder. Not to say it's bad, but coming from my Z7 II, Z9 and Z8 all with the paltry 3mp viewfinders, I expected more from the 5mp on the Z6 III, but just not seeing it. Having said that it's no worse of course than the other models (and they, given their relatively low resolution, are simply cracking, with zero lag.) At least the quality of the viewfinder doesn't go to a low res mode whilst focussing like it does on my A7RV :)

One thing that really does bug me on the Nikon Z bodies though is that you can't truly separate your shooting and video settings like you can on Sony (except on my Z9). For instance on my Z8 if I set up a user bank when in photo mode, and then change the settings in video mode and save to the same user slot, the shooting mode (PASM), isn't independent but it taken from the last time set (whether it be in photo or shooting mode). I really wish when flicking across to video mode everything was separated including the shooting mode (that damned A6700 and A7RV has been spoiling me).

Maybe of use for Video users....Just had this email from Grays, a new video lens designed for the Z system.



Breaking News!​


Nikon Announces the NEW
NIKKOR Z 28-135mm f/4 PZ Video Lens!​

Nikon releases the first full-frame Z lens specifically designed for video. Built to support solo video shooters and small crews, the NIKKOR Z 28-135mm f/4 PZ lens resolves high-definition 8k video footage straight from the camera, and it’s light enough to shoot handheld. Engineered to be exceptional, it’s a game changer for video makers using full-frame Nikon Z cameras like the Z9 and the Z8.

This is a compact, well-balanced and dependable go-to video lens for videographers and film makers who want to work with minimal kit.
 
Shame the Z6iii isn't a possible keeper.

I bought the ZFC twin lens kit as a lighter travel alternative to my Z8 but found it was too small for me even with a grip. I know the ZF isn't much bigger than the ZFC but I'm hoping it will sit better in the hand. I have ordered the Haoge grip for the ZF, I had the Neewer one on the ZFC.
IMO, Nikon should have scrapped the z50 and zfc and revamped the z30 with a viewfinder and IS.
 
IMO, Nikon should have scrapped the z50 and zfc and revamped the z30 with a viewfinder and IS.
I like the ZFC for the retro look.

I agree with your comments though, looking at the Z30 it seems as if it's a nice chunky grip from the photos on line, which would suit me personally along with the IBIS. I suppose Nikon are trying to cover as much users as possible with the different cameras.
 
Maybe of use for Video users....Just had this email from Grays, a new video lens designed for the Z system.



Breaking News!​


Nikon Announces the NEW
NIKKOR Z 28-135mm f/4 PZ Video Lens!​

Nikon releases the first full-frame Z lens specifically designed for video. Built to support solo video shooters and small crews, the NIKKOR Z 28-135mm f/4 PZ lens resolves high-definition 8k video footage straight from the camera, and it’s light enough to shoot handheld. Engineered to be exceptional, it’s a game changer for video makers using full-frame Nikon Z cameras like the Z9 and the Z8.

This is a compact, well-balanced and dependable go-to video lens for videographers and film makers who want to work with minimal kit.​
It is an f4, mediocre mtf but a giant price tag

I just don't see it .....

35mm f1.2 is at least a decent optic. You can see why they don't allow in sigma glass yet. Shame because I'm not buying into the system until such time
 
I like the ZFC for the retro look.

I agree with your comments though, looking at the Z30 it seems as if it's a nice chunky grip from the photos on line, which would suit me personally along with the IBIS. I suppose Nikon are trying to cover as much users as possible with the different cameras.
Are Nikon losing users to Sony though, who provide a better option? I wish I could fit Z lenses on a Sony body.
 
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