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The 70mm backs for the RB/RZ series also have a vacuum bulb for sucking the film flat..
OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!
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Picked up dev in town and got the blackout blind up tonight,
Is that an LPL, it kinda looks like mine.....not that I've seen a right lot of it lately, through the loft gloom..
fixedimage
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Aye, an LPL c7700.
Cost me a case of Stella.
Cost me a case of Stella.
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Good deal !
Mines a C7700 too, £50 but I gave him £70, cos I'm not a tight arse..
What lens are you using for 6x6
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joxby said:Good deal !
Mines a C7700 too, £50 but I gave him £70, cos I'm not a tight arse..
What lens are you using for 6x6
I only shoot 35mm. It's got a rodenstock 80mm in it which is probably more suited to mf but seems to work alright so far.
excalibur2
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Well I haven't a new toy but new feature.....I bought a Konica FT1 about 1.5 years ago and it worked ok except the diodes in the viewfinder didn't show what aperture was set on auto same for using the camera on manual....well today it started working 
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80mm should work fine for 35mm, it might cut down the size you can print to, but as long as you are getting the size you want, it doesn't matter.
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Yeah, printing on 10x8 mostly. Have some bigger paper but can goto the darkroom in town to use that.
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Apart from the smaller printing size you may find that the larger focal length allows slightly more reverse vignetting (in other words slightly darker in the centre and lighter at the edges). This may sound weird and I may not be explaining it properly but there will be a difference in light fall off between a lens designed for the format and one designed for a larger format. Of course if you use a lens designed for a smaller format you will get proper vignetting with fall off at the periphery.
If you come across a decent lens for 35mm at a reasonable cost (I have bought 50mm f2.8 El Nikkors for less than £25) it may well be worth buying it and see the difference, mind at 10 x 8 max I doubt it will be a big issue.
If you come across a decent lens for 35mm at a reasonable cost (I have bought 50mm f2.8 El Nikkors for less than £25) it may well be worth buying it and see the difference, mind at 10 x 8 max I doubt it will be a big issue.
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Cheers.
Doubt I'll be printing much bigger here anytime soon as I've just realised I'd also need a bigger easel too!
Doubt I'll be printing much bigger here anytime soon as I've just realised I'd also need a bigger easel too!
CT
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If you can reverse the head on the column you can probably print much larger - even project right down onto the floor.
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Head can be tilted to side to project onto wall, not sure how I'd get it to project onto floor, that baseboard would be in the way!
CT
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I'm not sureshow the baseboard could be in the way? I'm talking about sliding the head off the top of the column, turning it through 180 degs and mounting back on the column so that the baseboard is behind the head.
I used to do this years ago - you might need to weight the baseboard to keep things stable. It does depend on the shape of the column though - if it's grooved to only slide on one way you're snookered. It does work though with a round column.
I used to do this years ago - you might need to weight the baseboard to keep things stable. It does depend on the shape of the column though - if it's grooved to only slide on one way you're snookered. It does work though with a round column.
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Oh right yeah I get you.
Knew I was missing something, wasn't till you said weight the baseboard to keep it stable that I figured it out!
Just had a look though and woudn't work.
It's ok though, I like 10x8. Or rather 9x6 or whatever it is with the bit of rebate.
Knew I was missing something, wasn't till you said weight the baseboard to keep it stable that I figured it out!
Just had a look though and woudn't work.
It's ok though, I like 10x8. Or rather 9x6 or whatever it is with the bit of rebate.
excalibur2
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Interesting buy today at the bootie for £18:- Aluminium case with foam cutouts for MTL5 and CZJ tessar 50mm, and 135mm f3.5 SONNAR, and FLEKTOGON 35mm f2.4 all mint and been in a garage for 20 years but the blades on the lenses are very slow to move (just freed the Tessar though).
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Be very careful, "once bitten forever smitten"
Best 35mm camera I have ever used, the metering is sublime.
Use the spot function on the darkest part of the image you wish to retain detail in and then press the shadows button adjust until meter bar is in the middle job done, yes you can do this in your head, but it just so much easier and quicker.
Same with the brightest part of the image you wish to retain detail, press highlight button adjust meter bar, take picture.
I really does bring the 'meter for the shadows, develop for the highlights' to the fore.
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I've just noticed your listed cameras, they are not too different from mine:
I have Olympus Bodies OM1n, 4x OM2n, OM2SP, OM4T, OM4Ti, Pentax Bodies 2x ME Supers, Super A, Super Program (on its way), LX and Spotmatic SP.
I have bought some Tamron Adaptall 2 lenses (17mm, 28mm, 90mm and 80-210) with adapters for M42, PKA and Olympus, which makes cross platform doable.
Just put a half roll of Tri-X in the SP and I will try it out over the next couple of days for a bit of fun (this was the first camera I ever used at college in the late 70s) as a bit of a nostalgia trip for me.
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Indeed Ed, I'm catching up with your collection slowly!
It's the metering I want mainly, plus the lighter weight over the OM2 and flash sync at all speeds it's all very tempting! It is mainly the lack of spot metering that keeps my LX in the bag most of the time.
I keeo meaning to find out, can you use spot metering in AE mode on the OM4?
It's the metering I want mainly, plus the lighter weight over the OM2 and flash sync at all speeds it's all very tempting! It is mainly the lack of spot metering that keeps my LX in the bag most of the time.
I keeo meaning to find out, can you use spot metering in AE mode on the OM4?
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Indeed Ed, I'm catching up with your collection slowly!
It's the metering I want mainly, plus the lighter weight over the OM2 and flash sync at all speeds it's all very tempting! It is mainly the lack of spot metering that keeps my LX in the bag most of the time.
I keeo meaning to find out, can you use spot metering in AE mode on the OM4?
Yes, you can, you can also use multi-spot too.
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Unless its radically different on the OM2SP, about every camera with TTL metering used 'centre weighted average metering' until the introduction of 'matrix metering' on the Nikon FA (with the possible exception of the Minolta SRT series 'contrast light control' system which used two photocells to measure the difference between the top and bottom of metered area).
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Lots of cameras have built in flash, doesn't make it any good!
Anyay, here's my new baby. It's almost immaculate - just the mark above the strap ring and some wear on the memo holder, otherwise it looks and feels as if it came out the factory last week. Well worth the rather high price tag. You'll have to prise it from my cold dead fingers before I part with it!
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Lots of cameras have built in flash, doesn't make it any good!
Well what metering would you use instead?
Spot metering is fine, but you have to find something roughly equal to 18% grey or you have to use exposure compensation, not exactly the quickest way of doing it and has the possibility to go wildly wrong if you meter off something and don't use the correct compensation, centre weighted will get it right about 80% of the time, you just might need to use some compensation the for the other 20%.
Last time I looked you had a Pentax Super A and a selection of other manual cameras, whats wrong with the centre weighted metering on them suddenly?
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You can spot meter off anything, it doesn't have to be grey, simple zone system is fast and accurate and also telss you your contrast and dynamic range.
All the other cameras have ended up being sold, They've usually been bought for some useful feature or other but ultimately the OM2 always got more use and the rest has just been sold on. Spot metering rules!
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I like to spot meter with B&W when I get the chance. Meter off of the part of the image that will be darkest that still contains detail and then up the shutter speed by 2 full stops (very basic zone system I know, bu its otherwise a bit complicated for me!). In fact I am thinking of getting a spot meter specifically!
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Camera looks luvverly Alan,
I know, but it was the closest lens to hand for a pic!
I thought of that to keep my LX going, but it means an extra bit of kit to carry and they're scandalously expensive!
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I do realise that, hence the reason that I said 'roughly equal to 18% grey', i.e in how similar in tone it is is so grass, a blue sky etc and then use exposure compensation to correct the exposure if you meter off something darker/lighter than approximately 18%.
I do use spot metering on my Minolta AF cameras sometimes, but I usually find that the centre weighted meter in my Spotmatic F accurate enough so I've no problem with using it.
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That's how I used to do, it but the OM4 series uses 2 and 2/3rd stops when you hit the shadow button after spot metering on the darkest part in which you wish to retain detail, it still uses 2 stops for the highlights though.
The first film through the camera using the spot meter facility really impressed me, especially the dynamic range after using the shadow button.
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menthel said:
I can get intermediate speeds on my M4 except in between 1/4 and 1/8, your M6 should be able to do that too.
excalibur2
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