Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Interesting about iso800 is the max you are happy with. I have the em1 mk1 and find similar issues in poor quality light ( not just low light ).

I'm still wondering how much better the mk2 is..
 
damianmkv said:
Interesting about iso800 is the max you are happy with. I have the em1 mk1 and find similar issues in poor quality light ( not just low light ).

I'm still wondering how much better the mk2 is..
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Having had an OMD -EM1 Mkii side by side with my usual Fuji X-T2, at first I thought that the shadow noise recovery on the Olympus was poor, even more so in low light (higher ISO), I realise that the Fuji has a bigger sensor, but after some @snerkler style labcoat testing, I found that the Olympus highlight recovery was a lot better than the Fuji.

But this is actually a misnomer, as I believe that the histograms are effectively in different places on the 14bit RAW spread, I use the histogram a lot and expose to the right so that it doesn't clip.But to match the histograms so that shadow and highlight recovery was the same on both cameras, Either the Olympus needs to clip to the right, or the Fuji needs to be more to the left!! They are just in different places, once I understood this the shadow/highlight recovery on the two cameras was broadly similar.

So on the histogram the Olympus can be pushed much further to the right and still retain detail (than the Fuji), having done this the shadow recovery was good. Its just a different way of shooting (I'm not used to seeing clipping on the RHS of the histogram), so I think the MKii can be pushed further in the ISO than the histogram leads you to believe.
 
Interesting...thanks. I'll try it with the mk1 next time I use it ( which isn't often nowadays )
 
damianmkv said:
Interesting about iso800 is the max you are happy with. I have the em1 mk1 and find similar issues in poor quality light ( not just low light ).

I'm still wondering how much better the mk2 is..
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Yes in normal shooting 800iso but of cause a bird at 20ft iso 800 then cropped is about the same noise wise as if the bird was 10ft at iso 1600 needing less crop so there is a bit of variance that said its not often a bird is 20ft let alone 10 ft :)
Rob.
 
Billy said:
It looks like the firmware has been out for a couple of months, Olympus have only just sent me the email saying that a new firmware is out!
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It looks like firmware version 3.0 for the EM5ii came out on 8th May, so you were right up to date. I don't think I was notified, so thanks for the heads up.
 
I've just seen a video where with the olympus om-d e-m10 mkII focus with touch screen whilst using viewfinder can this be done on the e-m5 MKII?
 
damianmkv said:
i see the eglobalcentral have the e-m1 mk2 at £ 1270..must resist

https://www.eglobalcentral.co.uk/0lympus-om-d-e-m1-mark-ii-body-digital-camera-black-en.html
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I've seen this and also keep hovering over the buy it now button, I recently sold my 40-150mm f/2.8 and missed it so much I purchased another off eglobal for £18 pound cheaper than I sold my used one for, the lens arrived within 4 days of ordering.

I also keep looking at the DJI mavic fly more bundle £999.00 on there website but £1105.00 via eBay, I'm rather order off eBay as you've got more back-up with eBay but I've noticed you can pay via PayPal on there site, also if you register on there site you get a money off voucher I have a £35.00 off £800.00 spend.
 
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Quite possibly...am about to go away so it will have to wait until next month ( when, no doubt, the price will have gone up )
 
Hi there,

I have an EM10ii and looking to get a separate flash + a flash extension cable - both as cheap as poss as they're going to get v minimal use. Unfortunately, I've managed to completely confuse myself and can't work out what is going to work and what isn't! Can anyone help me please? Am I right in thinking that anything with 'TTL' connection will work?
 
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kewri said:
Hi there,

I have an EM10ii and looking to get a separate flash + a flash extension cable - both as cheap as poss as they're going to get v minimal use. Unfortunately, I've managed to completely confuse myself and can't work out what is going to work and what isn't! Can anyone help me please? Am I right in thinking that anything with 'TTL' connection will work?
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An Olympus M4/3 extension cable will work, but a cheaper option is either a Canon or Canon clone extension lead. Most of the M4/3 flashes tend to be fairly expensive new but options include Olympus/Panasonic, Metz and Nissin for TTL exposures. Most recent Olympus cameras also have an optical off camera flash facility using the built in camera flash and a compatible external flash, such as the Olympus FL36R and FL50R (must be the R versions, Metz AF48/ AF50/ AF52 which may require a user firmware update, this offers freedom from a lead but the off camera flash needs line of sight and subdued lighting, settings are in the menus. I have a 36R and two x Metz AF 48, all bought secondhand and these work just fine, my extension lead is a Jessops branded Canon lead.
 
HarveyM said:
An Olympus M4/3 extension cable will work, but a cheaper option is either a Canon or Canon clone extension lead. Most of the M4/3 flashes tend to be fairly expensive new but options include Olympus/Panasonic, Metz and Nissin for TTL exposures. Most recent Olympus cameras also have an optical off camera flash facility using the built in camera flash and a compatible external flash, such as the Olympus FL36R and FL50R (must be the R versions, Metz AF48/ AF50/ AF52 which may require a user firmware update, this offers freedom from a lead but the off camera flash needs line of sight and subdued lighting, settings are in the menus. I have a 36R and two x Metz AF 48, all bought secondhand and these work just fine, my extension lead is a Jessops branded Canon lead.
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ianp5a said:
I have the Nissin i40, m4/3 edition. With TTL and slave compatible to olympus. I wrote a short review here in the equipment review section.
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/reviews/nissin-i40.15/
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Thanks very much to both of you for your help. @HarveyM are you able to send a link to the Canon lead please? I don't seem to be able to find it on the Jessops website.
 
kewri said:
Thanks very much to both of you for your help. @HarveyM are you able to send a link to the Canon lead please? I don't seem to be able to find it on the Jessops website.
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It was on sale when I bought it so might not be stocked any more by them. Godox do one on Amazon, genuine Canon cords also turn up secondhand at MPB Photographic or London Camera Exchange now and again. The fourth pin doesn't matter, the 3 other pins line up.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Godox-Came...56&sr=1-1&keywords=canon+flash+extension+cord
 
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No idea...mixed reviews and it's not like I want to gamble with 1200 quid
 
milster said:
£1230 now!....Is eglobalcentral alright....I thought I read some bad reviews on them a while ago? Might be mistaken
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I've bought from them before. They will deliver your camera but if you have any warranty issues they are slow (camera needed to go back to HK) and in my case didn't resolve the issue (they never sent the camera to Olympus). So my advice is if you buy from them factor in that you might have to pay for any warranty repairs yourself.
 
Nawty said:
Tidy.
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srhmoto said:
These are great to see John!

Simon.
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Bebop said:
Really impressive! (y)
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footman said:
Beautifully crisp and clean images, colour rendition is spot on.
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Thanks for the comments folks, this was only my second time with the 4 wheels, not too many with the 2 wheels either ;)
For info, I only shot standard EM1 jpegs and I increased contrast with the amazing Dehaze brush in LR, plus a bit of sharpening. Everything else was in camera C.Af and Low continuous shutter limited to 3 frames burst. I'm quite impressed with the cheap zoom too ! The whole kit is so light vs my Canon stuff perhaps that's why my keeper rate was higher!
 
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Don't worry, I have the mk1. On the other hand, if I machine gunned it was disappointing how many misfocused shots there were - probably something like 50% were either OOF or soft so I was left wondering about the mk2 as well
 
damianmkv said:
Don't worry, I have the mk1. On the other hand, if I machine gunned it was disappointing how many misfocused shots there were - probably something like 50% were either OOF or soft so I was left wondering about the mk2 as well
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Ah yes, it was @johnty52 who has the mark ii. Both sets are impressive.

I haven't tried my EM5ii for action shots. For panning like this would you set it to continuous focus or continuous focus with tracking? And presumably multi shot? I really should have a go.
 
Single point only, never with tracking as it's useless on the em1 mk1. Usually spot metering
 
Bebop said:
Ah yes, it was @johnty52 who has the mark ii. Both sets are impressive.

I haven't tried my EM5ii for action shots. For panning like this would you set it to continuous focus or continuous focus with tracking? And presumably multi shot? I really should have a go.
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Yes, I was panning with the 40-150 f4/5.6 and C-Af (not Af tracking) using the small focus square in the centre position and using the IBS, I found that on an angle I could get very sharp areas of a car depending on where the focus was on shutter press, but depth of field (lack of at 6.3ish) must be causing some blurring or possibly some car movement in the Vertical direction (bounce). I think mostly I got good focus but I was after sharpness throughout so I only found I achieved this when the cars were almost parallel. Some shots were obvious camera shake ( my bad) but most I rejected probably too harshly for not sharp all the way through.
In the attached shot, you can see the plane of focus goes (roughly) from the rear wheel through the yellow number and over the roof leaving the car from the rear door to front bumper progressively less sharp..
I did try C-Af Tr but this only really worked for head - on shots and you do need to keep the camera pretty still, so not too useful for highspeed sports. Overall I found the light weeight of the kit very beneficial to sharpness when panning.
John
Example DoF shot
OultonBT-May17-P5210071 by John Hallard, on Flickr
 
johnty52 said:
Yes, I was panning with the 40-150 f4/5.6 and C-Af (not Af tracking) using the small focus square in the centre position and using the IBS, I found that on an angle I could get very sharp areas of a car depending on where the focus was on shutter press, but depth of field (lack of at 6.3ish) must be causing some blurring or possibly some car movement in the Vertical direction (bounce). I think mostly I got good focus but I was after sharpness throughout so I only found I achieved this when the cars were almost parallel. Some shots were obvious camera shake ( my bad) but most I rejected probably too harshly for not sharp all the way through.
In the attached shot, you can see the plane of focus goes (roughly) from the rear wheel through the yellow number and over the roof leaving the car from the rear door to front bumper progressively less sharp..
I did try C-Af Tr but this only really worked for head - on shots and you do need to keep the camera pretty still, so not too useful for highspeed sports. Overall I found the light weeight of the kit very beneficial to sharpness when panning.
John
Example DoF shot
OultonBT-May17-P521
0071 by John Hallard, on Flickr
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Thanks John. I have that same lens and am amazed at how sharp it is for the price - and light! I must try it out on some panning shots.

I suppose you could have increased the DOF at the expense of higher ISO, but I'd still have been very happy with that shot.
damianmkv said:
Single point only, never with tracking as it's useless on the em1 mk1. Usually spot metering
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Thanks @damianmkv I only ever use single point. I've never used the tracking at all which is why I was wondering if I've been missing out.

I think I read that in the latest firmware update the metering was now related to the focus point for the EM5ii.
 
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