Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 & Mark 2 Owners Thread

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Just a quick heads up for anyone that's done the EM1-II update, it reset my card saving to single card and I hadn't realised until this weekend when I had no images on one card. If you use both card slots it worth double checking that the setting hasn't changed.
Thanks I will check this.
 
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Argh... not only did that happen but I have used it in a compressed jpeg mode this week while we are away :rolleyes:- one of my Custom Modes was not shooting RAW for some bizarre reason. Must be my mistake not spotting it. At least we can come back here without it breaking the bank. Fortunately a couple of days were using the Canon.
 
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Can anyone recommend a small case/bag for my Em10 mk2 with the 45mm lens attached? It's for days when I only want to take that combo.
I use an Olympus Streetcase M with my e-m10ii with a lens attached - leaves room for another lens (or two depending on which ones).
It'll just take it with the 12-40 PRO too. Mine came with the Olympus Portrait kit which included the cheaper 40-150 lens. I've had it years and it's still in decent nick.
It looks like a little Pan Am bag. Doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere though but people might have one kicking around unused as the design is a bit marmite :)
The dimensions might be helpful in searching something else
Product Dimensions: 10 x 17 x 16 cm

I also have the larger Streetcase L and now an ONA Bowery (which is in a different league for size and cost).

The replacement/equivalent seems to be "Olympus Mini Messenger Bag for Camera".
Again a design you'll either love or perhaps hate?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B568NEC/ref=psdc_4202565031_t1_B005AQ1H0G
 

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I use an Olympus Streetcase M with my e-m10ii with a lens attached - leaves room for another lens (or two depending on which ones).
It'll just take it with the 12-40 PRO too. Mine came with the Olympus Portrait kit which included the cheaper 40-150 lens. I've had it years and it's still in decent nick.
It looks like a little Pan Am bag. Doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere though but people might have one kicking around unused as the design is a bit marmite :)
The dimensions might be helpful in searching something else
Product Dimensions: 10 x 17 x 16 cm

I also have the larger Streetcase L and now an ONA Bowery (which is in a different league for size and cost).

The replacement/equivalent seems to be "Olympus Mini Messenger Bag for Camera".
Again a design you'll either love or perhaps hate?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B568NEC/ref=psdc_4202565031_t1_B005AQ1H0G

Thanks. I was looking to carry just camera and one lens. I have a Vanguard bag I use for camera and 3 lenses.
I was going to say something,like this....


But I think that something likes this could be the right size I'm looking for :LOL:
 
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On phone now, makes keeping track and searching less easy than when on main PC......so has this been mentioned already.

Rapidly following on from v3 firmware for the E-M1.2 there is now version 3.1

Found mentioned on DP Review forum and posters there report it as good "fix" :)

Here
http://dl01.olympus-imaging.com/ww/ud2/ENU/0001/1250/index31a.html
 
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FWIW

A quick review(?) of my first outing with firmware v3 on my E-M1.2

  1. The C-AF was quicker responding and latched on better with cluttered backgrounds, using the 9 AF pattern
  2. Now, though I did not take many long bursts I thought great I can chimp whilst it still 'writing/clearing the buffer'
    Well, imo it seems that the buffer clearing is much quicker.................it cleared before I had the chance to even hit the review button ~ a real wow! moment for me. I await to see how that aspect behaves when I do shoot a longer burst
  3. So, I stuck with C-AF all the time I was at Warnham LNR and found that even quite small songbirds high up in the clutter of the tree branches & leaves the focus using the single central AF point was almost unerringly locked on to the subjects.
    NB including where the bird was in a shady section.

  4. Where it misses the focus ~ I put that down almost entirely to my fault...............but with the new power FW3 brings = more cameracraft to refine :)
I am sure I will find more that pleases but the above alone makes to camera feel like is as the website said "download your new camera" ~ to me the FW3 update is a game changer
Just a bit of an update

Re: the C-AF locking onto the subject against a cluttered background. Maybe stating the obvious ~ it is better when the subject is paler than the background. My initial above was with gulls and a Grey Heron against trees but this week with a marsh Harrier against tree/shrubbery the performance was more mixed. Reducing the AF sensitivity might have helped???

But C-AF used against a bright sky was a revelation. Swallow and Martin's ~ a few sessions with these and subject to actually seeing them on the PC there are a decent number of keepers ?:)

In regard to S-AF if the subject is quite small in the frame when using C-AF I found the focus seemed a little uncertain, switching to S-AF was better but still got some that though shutter fired they were oof! So not too sure what to make of that???
Maybe v3.1 will also add that?
 
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Think I've mentioned before, I know bugger all about motorsport or photos of, but you could sell it to me with shots like these! Excellent
Thanks, really appreciate that (y)
 
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A little insight from other E-M1.2 users please.

I think today was the first time I can recall of doing indoor photography since getting the camera last year and ISO was for (all?) almost all at 6400.

Note ~ I am not talking about long exposure....max I think was 1/10second

Not 100% sure how many frames shot before I noticed but was suddenly aware of a fixed "hot" or is it a "stuckgreen pixel (off centre on the mid-line closeish to the RHS).

It was visible in the EVF and on the LCD screen...but I could not find "it" on the review of the images themselves! I could not discern it's presence using lower ISO's outdoors.

Lastly, just sorting the kit out this evening and with lenscap on and ISO 6400 in use I could see "it" again.

Obviously if not showing in the captured image it is not a problem, is it??? But is it a concern I should get looked at sooner rather than later???

Has anyone else seen similar and what did you do about it???

TIA :)
 
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A little insight from other E-M1.2 users please.

I think today was the first time I can recall of doing indoor photography since getting the camera last year and ISO was for (all?) almost all at 6400.

Note ~ I am not talking about long exposure....max I think was 1/10second

Not 100% sure how many frames shot before I noticed but was suddenly aware of a fixed "hot" or is it a "stuckgreen pixel (off centre on the mid-line closeish to the RHS).

It was visible in the EVF and on the LCD screen...but I could not find "it" on the review of the images themselves! I could not discern it's presence using lower ISO's outdoors.

Lastly, just sorting the kit out this evening and with lenscap on and ISO 6400 in use I could see "it" again.

Obviously if not showing in the captured image it is not a problem, is it??? But is it a concern I should get looked at sooner rather than later???

Has anyone else seen similar and what did you do about it???

TIA :)
How’re are you viewing the images on your computer? If you import directly into software such as Lightroom I’m pretty sure they perform a kind of automatic ‘pixel mapping’ and so would mask any dead/stuck pixels.

If you do do this then what I’d suggest is shoot a jpeg shot, open it directly on the computer without importing into software and see if the stuck pixel is there.
 
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A little insight from other E-M1.2 users please.

I think today was the first time I can recall of doing indoor photography since getting the camera last year and ISO was for (all?) almost all at 6400.

Note ~ I am not talking about long exposure....max I think was 1/10second

Not 100% sure how many frames shot before I noticed but was suddenly aware of a fixed "hot" or is it a "stuckgreen pixel (off centre on the mid-line closeish to the RHS).

It was visible in the EVF and on the LCD screen...but I could not find "it" on the review of the images themselves! I could not discern it's presence using lower ISO's outdoors.

Lastly, just sorting the kit out this evening and with lenscap on and ISO 6400 in use I could see "it" again.

Obviously if not showing in the captured image it is not a problem, is it??? But is it a concern I should get looked at sooner rather than later???

Has anyone else seen similar and what did you do about it???

TIA :)
There's also a pixel mapping feature built into the camera (Custom Menu J1). Might want to give that a try and see if the camera can map the hot pixel out ?
 
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How’re are you viewing the images on your computer? If you import directly into software such as Lightroom I’m pretty sure they perform a kind of automatic ‘pixel mapping’ and so would mask any dead/stuck pixels.

If you do do this then what I’d suggest is shoot a jpeg shot, open it directly on the computer without importing into software and see if the stuck pixel is there.
Ooops! I should have said..... reviews only on camera LCD.....will not be back at PC until Sunday.

PS I use LR and a couple of others so can look at them critically when I can.
 
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Ooops! I should have said..... reviews only on camera LCD.....will not be back at PC until Sunday.

PS I use LR and a couple of others so can look at them critically when I can.
Ah! yes, I did think I read that it had pixel mapping......will check that out :)
Don't review on LR etc straight away, as I said they will automatically correct any dead/stuck pixels so won't show if you have an issue. It seems very odd that the final image on camera doesn't show it. If it's an issue with the LCD and EVF screen then you would expect it to show on image review (highly unlikely that the LCD and EVF would have the same stuck pixel), and likewise if it's a stuck pixel on the sensor then you would again expect it to show, unless of course Olympus applies pixel mapping to the jpeg.

My guess would be the latter, a stuck pixel on the sensor which the jpeg is mapping out. If this is the case you could use the pixel mapping tool on the camera to remove it at all times, or just leave it if it doesn't bug you too much when shooting.
 
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On phone now, makes keeping track and searching less easy than when on main PC......so has this been mentioned already.

Rapidly following on from v3 firmware for the E-M1.2 there is now version 3.1

Found mentioned on DP Review forum and posters there report it as good "fix" :)

Here
http://dl01.olympus-imaging.com/ww/ud2/ENU/0001/1250/index31a.html
Oh that’s interesting. I did see a wobble in my EVF and wondered if it was developing a problem, or was it my eyes?
Thanks for sharing.
 
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Don't review on LR etc straight away, as I said they will automatically correct any dead/stuck pixels so won't show if you have an issue. It seems very odd that the final image on camera doesn't show it. If it's an issue with the LCD and EVF screen then you would expect it to show on image review (highly unlikely that the LCD and EVF would have the same stuck pixel), and likewise if it's a stuck pixel on the sensor then you would again expect it to show, unless of course Olympus applies pixel mapping to the jpeg.

My guess would be the latter, a stuck pixel on the sensor which the jpeg is mapping out. If this is the case you could use the pixel mapping tool on the camera to remove it at all times, or just leave it if it doesn't bug you too much when shooting.
I think I will do a couple of checks with lenscap on at various ISO levels just to get a "picture" ;) of its behaviour and try to confirm , in camera review, whether it is appearing in the images with such a completely dark scene where it should stand out. And likely do the pixel mapping as well after the testing.

Edit ~ as mentioned above I did a check @ a couple of iso and could see it in the actual frame. It was most pronounced at 1600 and diminished at 200. So did a Pixel Mapping ........voila green pixel is banished :)

PS I recall doing this on Canon bodies ~ though different process in that it was an undocumented (by Canon) method....more like an "Easter egg" one;)
 
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Of my prime lenses I have to say I've always thought the 45mm 1.8 was my least sharp. I dd suspect user error as I was usually manually focusing it. Last night I proved this was the case when using autofocus - it is definitely sharp enough - although thinking about it, I probably wasn't on 1.8 for most of the shots. Must try some at 1.8 tonight.

Here is one of the lead guitarist and singer of 'Z Trinity' at the Rhythm Tree Festival on the Isle of Wight. She was a tad close, but I quite like the close crop. ISO 4000 and no noise reduction been done. 1/160s f/2.8.

190712221010-BC123214.jpg
 
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Of my prime lenses I have to say I've always thought the 45mm 1.8 was my least sharp. I dd suspect user error as I was usually manually focusing it. Last night I proved this was the case when using autofocus - it is definitely sharp enough - although thinking about it, I probably wasn't on 1.8 for most of the shots. Must try some at 1.8 tonight.
The 45mm isn't a particularly sharp lens wide open tbh, but great stopped down. I buy fast lenses to use wide open though, and the 45mm f1.8 is one of those that I deem 'sharp enough' as long as you don't pixel peep. It renders nicely though and is convenient to carry around as it's so small and light therefore I'm still happy to use it.
 
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The 45mm isn't a particularly sharp lens wide open tbh, but great stopped down. I buy fast lenses to use wide open though, and the 45mm f1.8 is one of those that I deem 'sharp enough' as long as you don't pixel peep. It renders nicely though and is convenient to carry around as it's so small and light therefore I'm still happy to use it.
Hmm that makes me wonder whether I'd be as well off using the 12-40 2.8. It would also make it an awful lot easier to compose a shot when you are penned in amongst people.

it is the 'small and light' aspect that I love about Olympus primes. Last night I carried the 75mm the 17mm and the 45mm. I used them all and changed frequently.
 
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Of my prime lenses I have to say I've always thought the 45mm 1.8 was my least sharp. I dd suspect user error as I was usually manually focusing it. Last night I proved this was the case when using autofocus - it is definitely sharp enough - although thinking about it, I probably wasn't on 1.8 for most of the shots. Must try some at 1.8 tonight.
My copy of the 45 f/1.8 isn't that great wide open either. Stopping down dramatically improves IQ on mine. I'm keeping it because it is small, light and very portable - my original rationale for buying into m4/3.
 
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Anybody with an E-M5 ii had the memory card door become quite stiff to open? Mine seems to be getting worse but there is nothing obvious to suggest why.
 
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Hmm that makes me wonder whether I'd be as well off using the 12-40 2.8. It would also make it an awful lot easier to compose a shot when you are penned in amongst people.

it is the 'small and light' aspect that I love about Olympus primes. Last night I carried the 75mm the 17mm and the 45mm. I used them all and changed frequently.
The 12-40mm is pretty sharp wide open tbh, but I still prefer the look of f1.8. The M4/3 lenses are so easy to carry around aren’t they, trouble is it makes me want a second body to save having to keep swapping lenses :facepalm:
 
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I have the original e-m10 but have been offered a e-m5 mkii at what i think is a good price - £250 with a 40-150mm boxed. Would it be a worthwhile upgrade?
sounds good to me, at least if it's boxed it shouldn't be nicked :exit:
 
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