Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread
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I didn't thing Instagram limited you to a square crop anymore?I like the odd square crop too, but then people instantly say you're try-harding for IGyou can't win. I don't even post much on there, I do Flickr regular enough though and I just fire them up full size whatever it may be post crop
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Thanks for that. Ive actually been struggling to find an EM5 MK2 grip at a reasonable price. Just wondering why this one has the bit on the opposite end to the actual hand grip. Many don't.
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It's to fit Arca Swiss/clamp style tripod mounts, like this: this for portrait orientation. Afaik you can remove the end piece on some of them if not needed. It'll add a bit of extra protection though.
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Just be aware that L brackets play havoc with fully adjustable screens. That is why they let you remove the shorter end piece.
I have one on my Pen F and it stops the screen fully articulating. I keep the end piece removed and in my bag until required.
I have one on my Pen F and it stops the screen fully articulating. I keep the end piece removed and in my bag until required.
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They don't have to be square, but in portrait orientation you still can't use the 3:2 ratio which annoys me as my Nikon shoots in this ratio so on the rare occasion I post to Instagram I have to make a special crop.
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Is there a way to change the colouration/WB of the diorama/miniature effect art filter in the Olympus cameras? They always seem to have quite a warm/yellowy appearance, and almost like a cross processed look to them. Is it possible to have the miniature effect but without the colour changes?
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In the G menu, keep warm colour off maybe?
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I think it's intentional.
If you don't mind working on the RAW in Olympus viewer you can apply the Art Filters after the fact and play with a custom White Balance or change the color balance etc.
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Thanks, doesn't seem to make a difference though.
Thanks, I never use Olympus Viewer. Can you add any old Olympus RAW file (i.e. it doesn't have to be tagged with diorama in camera)? I might have to have a play with Olympus viewer before I go away to see what it can do so I know how to 'prepare' the shot before hand
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Just had a play about with Olympus viewer, it’s very slow and clunky isn’t it?
Playing about in LR I’ve realised I can get a similar effect using grad filters at the top and bottom with sharpness set all the way to the negative and a bit of a decrease in clarity then duplicating the grad filters. I assume inbuilt camera software applies a similar process?
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Yup you can fiddle with any RAW file - probably the jpg too if you were a masochist.Thanks, doesn't seem to make a difference though.
Thanks, I never use Olympus Viewer. Can you add any old Olympus RAW file (i.e. it doesn't have to be tagged with diorama in camera)? I might have to have a play with Olympus viewer before I go away to see what it can do so I know how to 'prepare' the shot before hand
OV3 is a bit of a mystery. They added hardware acceleration recently which made it quicker for some systems but it’s still glacial compared to lightroom. I suspect it works on the full res file for every adjustment.
If Olympus bothered to document it properly I might be a bit more forgiving if it’s slowness and odd quirks. As it stands I use it to import from the camera and move on to LR for any really editing.
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Why do you import using Olympus viewer if you’re going to use LR?
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Was wondering the same here, I use a card reader and just transfer the folder from camera to desktop - then straight to LR. Unless the Olympus software performs some magic on the files first, why bother with it?
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That's how I do it, but of course LR has its own import too
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That's how I do it, but of course LR has its own import too
Yeah, old habits maybe, I like to rename on the desktop, and sometimes I'll go through them and delete unwanted images/duplicates first so things will be nippier in LR. Doing this only takes me a minute or two as I do tend to delete on the go in camera also.
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I used to cull first but Mac preview is slow with RAW these days so I import everything to LR then use the x key to mark as unwanted and then you can delete all unwanted when you're done. Gives you the option of just deleting from the LR library or from your hard disk too. I find this much quicker now
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I'm guessing he prefers OV for the raw conversion and then Lightroom for the editing.
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Maybe, I wonder why though. I prefer to omit as many steps as possible. I used to do my LR adjustments then hit PS with all of the files and do some layers and masking for sharpening and I would do any spot or distraction removal in there, but now I mostly just use LR for everything.
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Some would argue that to get the best from your raw files, you should use the manufacturers raw converter. its not something I necessarily believe myself but I can see the merit in it
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But whatever you use to import into as soon as you import into LR, LR will convert the RAW file using its own process anyway. It's not as though the Olympus viewer converts the actual RAW file saved on your hard drive and then any program that subsequently opens up the RAW file will have the Olympus conversion. The RAW file remains the RAW file. Likewise if you import using LR but then decide to open up the RAW file using Olympus viewer you'll still get the Olympus RAW conversion rather than the Adobe one.
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I'm assuming he's importing as a 16bit tiff. I've never used OV so its all pretty much guess work.
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TIFF files are huge
I don't know if TIFF files are set in stone in terms of profiles like jpegs so no matter what program you open them with they all look the same (in theory) or whether they're more like RAW files and each software has their own conversion process? I dunno, but it just sounds like it's doubling the workflow to me. I
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What a lot of assumptions you kids make
I was using OV3 for ages and when I wanted more editing with layers etc. I exported into GIMP.
OV3 is already associated with the camera when I connect it so there's no particular reason to change.
OV3 happily imports into the correct folders on my machine - date ordered and then I add subjects to the folder name.
I got Lightroom last Christmas and took a while to get into it at all. With the end of the standalone version I'm reluctant to include it any further in my workflow, particularly adding a load of cataloguing that won't port if/when I choose something else.
I just import the folders I'm interested in editing into LR when I have time and energy to play with them. I very rarely start editing when I import - I'm usually just backing up what's on the card before I go out again.
I was using OV3 for ages and when I wanted more editing with layers etc. I exported into GIMP.
OV3 is already associated with the camera when I connect it so there's no particular reason to change.
OV3 happily imports into the correct folders on my machine - date ordered and then I add subjects to the folder name.
I got Lightroom last Christmas and took a while to get into it at all. With the end of the standalone version I'm reluctant to include it any further in my workflow, particularly adding a load of cataloguing that won't port if/when I choose something else.
I just import the folders I'm interested in editing into LR when I have time and energy to play with them. I very rarely start editing when I import - I'm usually just backing up what's on the card before I go out again.
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I have the latest stand alone version. It'll do for now at least until I get an unsupported camera.
I won't drag this into a CC sub rabbit hole other than to say for me, the sub doesn't work.
I have an import and file management solution that works for me - date and subject folders created by OV3.
I know I could use LR to do this too and catalogue and sort etc. but I was wary from the start of getting locked in and now I will eventually want something else so it seems silly to adopt something I know won't be a long term solution.
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The more people use different solutions, the better it is for everyone. Otherwise they'll charge anything they want, how they want.
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Hardware manufacturers have a history of producing crummy software.
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I have never once used the free software that came with any camera I've owned, and I've owned a good range over the years. There's always better, even for free, online.
Anyway, a few randoms with the ol' em5:
Unlocked by K G, on Flickr
I Got ID by K G, on Flickr
November Sky by K G, on Flickr
Tea by K G, on Flickr
Anyway, a few randoms with the ol' em5:
Unlocked by K G, on FlickrI Got ID by K G, on FlickrNovember Sky by K G, on FlickrTea by K G, on Flickr
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Anyone else use Capture One Pro? Or am I the only one (been using it for years)
I've never tried it, I've been using LR since 4, bought that on sale, then upgraded to 5 and the most recent I can get by update is 5.7. That'll do for another while, I find it about the easiest program to use out there.
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Tried it a few times, prefer LRAnyone else use Capture One Pro? Or am I the only one (been using it for years)
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Yes, I am still in play-with mode This image as much about the lens, but it is on the em5 - This Panasonic 25mm 1.7, really liking it. I could never get shots like this with my Fuji 35 1.4, it would hunt like a mad thing if I got anywhere near this close to the cat and I'd give up. The Pany can hunt a little at times too, , but when it's going to focus it does so quickly, and also silently which is new to me A nothing shot, but these are one chance, one shot situations if it was something you really wanted to capture. A split second later the cat head-butted the camera and that was that, "feed me NOW!"
It also focuses nice and close as quick as it does for wider shots. This was only cropped at the sides and straightened a bit.
When they want food by K G, on Flickr
This image as much about the lens, but it is on the em5 - This Panasonic 25mm 1.7, really liking it. I could never get shots like this with my Fuji 35 1.4, it would hunt like a mad thing if I got anywhere near this close to the cat and I'd give up. The Pany can hunt a little at times too, , but when it's going to focus it does so quickly, and also silently which is new to me A nothing shot, but these are one chance, one shot situations if it was something you really wanted to capture. A split second later the cat head-butted the camera and that was that, "feed me NOW!" It also focuses nice and close as quick as it does for wider shots. This was only cropped at the sides and straightened a bit.
When they want food by K G, on Flickr
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The Panasonic 25mm F1.7 is a great cat lens - I took this the day I got mine - Christmas 2015.
Pearl likes a box by AMcUK, on Flickr
And this one a few weeks later
Amy by AMcUK, on Flickr
Lovely images, and cats
You got 2 in, I have to add one more for that
[same cat, the other grumpy one is harder to photograph as she runs away every time] 
Special delivery by K G, on Flickr
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Got the 8" telescope out and had to try the EM5MK2 out on the moon.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/21MgUYN]
Moon Mono by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/ZLPYT9]
Moon by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/21MgUYN]
Moon Mono by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL][url=https://flic.kr/p/ZLPYT9]
Moon by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]
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That's some moon detail!
I just discovered that my old Takumar 200 F4 won't focus to infinity when adapted to the em5, it will do on my X-T1. It works fine, focus without any problems at shorter distances, like birds in the garden etc ... but I tried a moon shot today and at infinity on the lens it's just short for sharp focus. I presume it's the adapter itself causing this? Maybe it's a tad too wide? Anyone else ever come across this when adapting lenses? Is there an easy fix?
I just discovered that my old Takumar 200 F4 won't focus to infinity when adapted to the em5, it will do on my X-T1. It works fine, focus without any problems at shorter distances, like birds in the garden etc ... but I tried a moon shot today and at infinity on the lens it's just short for sharp focus. I presume it's the adapter itself causing this? Maybe it's a tad too wide? Anyone else ever come across this when adapting lenses? Is there an easy fix?