Photgraphing people

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Although ive been into photography for a while, my subject matter has been nature mainly birds.

I am exploring the possibility of doing volunteer work, and it has been suggested that perhaps i could use my hobby to take photos of events.

Ive not taken people related images before, any advice or tips would be really appreciated. For instance my wildlife lenses are 100-400mm and 150mm macro.

What would forum members think about using a 24-70mm, or a 70-200mm lens for events / people.

I hope you can offer some advice as im out of my depth with this kind of subject matter EG what type of metering. etc.

regards brian.
 
It's scary at first!!! :D

The 24-70 and 70-200 will be ideal for people shots, so don't worry about that. My biggest issue is (well, getting closer to 'was' now :) ) confidence. It's a steep learning curve and a lot of people really don't like it..... think of the people you're photographing as birdies and apply the same principals! :lol: Except it should be easier, because they can understand you!

What kind of events are we talking about?

Chris
 
Thanks Chris, i understand i wont feel comfortable taking people and im sure they feel likewise. Im hoping as they will be organised events the agency would eventually use them for talks and newsletters. It took me years to get comfotable taking wildlife, learning fieldcraft/ comfort zones etc. im sure there must be tips for putting people at their ease.

ta brian.

Events could be varied, Disabled games, Walking, Age concern projects keep fit crafts shows etc.
 
chris321 said:
My biggest issue is confidence.
Click to expand...


Amen to that. If you're looking nervous and unsure then it will just put the subject off. Especially if it's a public event where people aren't expecting to have their photos taken, so whilst you're close to them don't spend too long metering and framing the shot. When I say don't spend too long, I don't just mean take a shot then move on - obviously your exposure and framing still needs to be spot on, and getting it right the first time is very difficult, but that's just something that, in my opinion, is entirely down to experience.

As well as trying not to show your nerves, you have to come across as approachable and friendly. If the situation is right then I will always try to say thank you after I've taken their picture.
 
Some very good advice :)

I have recently started photographing people, and have a couple of weddings coming up (one for a family member) and all I can say is that if you are not confident and look confused or nervous then people won't always take you seriously. That is mainly advice for big family events rather than taking shots of 1 or 2 people, although to put them at ease it is always good to be confident.

So I would know your kit (which I'm sure you do) and know what and where you want to shoot, and don't be afraid to tell them to do something which may feel unnatural to them if it will get a good shot. And simply boss them about a bit, let them know you are in charge :) As guybrish said though, you need to be approachable - don't make them scared of you!

In terms of the lenses yes those 2 will cover you, and I have found the 50mm 1.8 great for low light conditions.

The 70-200 will allow you to take more reportage (non-posed) pictures which you could start with to warm yourself up and ease into the shoot, raising confidence before going for the proper shots.

Hopefully that helps, and I'll let you know if I pick up any more tips after my big events!
 
A 24-70 and a 70-200 are ideal for people photography...better still if you have two bodies to put them on...
They account for about 99% of my images since I went FX... I also have a 17-35 for wide stuff (which used to be my 'main' lens with DX) and a 50mm f/1.2 for those wide-open 'bokeh' shots, but seldom use it TBH...
 
Thank you Dave and Rob, i suppose i will be doing more candid style at first, rather than more posed shots. Any ideas about settings for group shots ? My bird photos are usually around 400 ISO, F5.6 for a sharp subject and narrow DOF, but although i think that might work for portraits was wondering how groups are photographed.

Thanks all for responding, much appreciated.
regards brian.
 
Group shots don't move so lower the iso - you won't need that fast a shutter speed if shooting on a 'standard' zoom...100-200iso (depending on camera - go for the lowest setting).
DoF will depend on how you 'stack' the group; as long as you ensure there's enough to cover them front to back, you're good to go...
 
Throw yourself into doing some street photography, you will probably be nervous at first.
Once you feel comfortable doing it, when it comes to event photography, you will feel happy about catching good random shots as well as posed shots.
My Mrs has a large family and I am forever been asked to take group shots at various functions.
I'm happy to do them but I find wandering around with the camera produces far more interesting photos.
 
Arkady said:
Group shots don't move so lower the iso - you won't need that fast a shutter speed if shooting on a 'standard' zoom...100-200iso (depending on camera - go for the lowest setting).
DoF will depend on how you 'stack' the group; as long as you ensure there's enough to cover them front to back, you're good to go...
Click to expand...

Agree with this - I wouldn't have the iso any higher than 200 if you're shooting outside for the group shots (as most are).

I tend to up the aperture to 5.6 or higher for large group shots so as to include the background and ensure everyones face is in focus :) Of course this depends on a lot of things so be prepared to play around a bit.

I'd also make sure you know where you want to cut the shot. Do you want to include their feet or just their upper bodies. If the latter then cutting at the right point (not their knees or ankles) becomes an important point to consider.
 
Thanks Rob and Darren, street photography is something i would like to do but its quite daunting. And i need to try larger DOF, so i may practice on the swans on the local lake until i get the hang of it.
 
You'd be better off practicing on something similar to the subjects you'll be shooting - get your family and friends to help out...
Then you'll know what setttings to use...
 
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