Beginner Photographing children spontaneously

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Nads
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Please help, I am really struggling to get decent in focus shots of my daughters (aged 2 and another 3 months). My 2 year is like the speed of lightening and is always on the go. I have decided to take my Canon dSLR everywhere I go now and aim to take at least 10 shots when we are out and about..problem is I come home and upload them to the computer and 9 of them are completely out of focus. Its making me think to hang up my camera and stick to my iPhone or point and shoot camera.
I shoot in AV mode, varying between 2.8 and 5.6/6.3 with auto ISO and auto WB. I have tried both one point focus and multi focus points with different exposures (centre weighted etc)
What am I doing wrong? please help..i am missing all these shots of them
Thank you
 
AI servo focussing, and have a search of the forum for back button focus, it might help too.
 
Are they out of focus or is it motion blur? What AF are you using? Multi zone or single point? Are you using continuous AF to track your kids? Are you using back button focusing or the shutter button to focus?

AV mode may be picking too slow a shutter speed, so take control of your camera. I'd suggest trying Tv or manual (not sure of your experience level). For kids running I aim for at least 1/320 sec shutter speed. Manually set the ISO to a value that allows this shutter speed but is still pretty much noise free, say 400 to 800. Use AF-C (continuous AF) and single point AF point selection so you choose what the focus point is, not the camera. Try following them using the above settings and wait for the moment you get some eye contact. Takes patience, but can be fun when you get a nice shot or two.

Would be helpful if you posted a pic with the EXIF data (or shared your settings) as the above is based a bit on guesswork.
 
Few good tips on here, AI servo is defenitly worth trying out, personally I find it great for motorsports but not so much for people but others get on great with it. Back button focusing is a massive help though.

But as just stated 10 is nothing, I can easily take 50 shots in 10-15 mins of the kids playing just to find a few I'm really happy with as not just the focusing which is tricky but their expressions and where their looking.
 
:agree:

Persevere, but 10 shots isn't a lot IMHO ( I took 38 shots on an hour and 10 walk yesterday morning with the dog) The other option if to use your flash + what @Phil V said
This too...

If I was out with the kids for an hour, I'd shoot maybe 100 shots, and if I got 10 good ones*, I'd be happy.

* to explain, the difference between a newbies keeper rate and a top pros, is non existent. The difference is in the quality of the images in the bin. My 'rubbish' is generally properly exposed and sharp, it gets binned because it's similar to another shot that's slightly better (expression, posture etc)
 
Thank you so much for all your help, I have tried shooting using one shot focus mode and single point focus but often the focus is soft and off. I then switched to AI focus and multipoint which has as predicted focused on things I didn't want. I will upload some images to show you what I mean.
I did try TV mode albeit briefly. I have shot in manual mode before but often missed the shot as I was too busy sorting out the settings. I don't use back button focus..how do I set that up? I have a canon. What is the advantage over this compared to half press of the shutter? Thank you again
 
You could swap your camera for a Nikon ;) and take pictures at 1/8000 sec
 
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There are a few people who like AI focus, but largely it's ignored by everyone.

Use AI Servo for subjects that might move, and never ever ever ever allow your camera to choose what to focus on. As a photographer, your aim is to create a n image of a subject. We use compositional and lighting techniques to lead the viewer to the subject. But much more importantly, the subject has to be the thing in focus, your camera has no idea which bit of the image is the subject.

AV, TV, M, P? Is rather irrelevant, so long as your shutter speed is high enough, your DoF is relevant and the exposure is correct. Don't ever listen to the willy wagglers on the internet who will tell you you're not a real photographer if you don't shoot in Manual. (There is a time and place where each of those modes will be best, but that's not a concern now.

Your camera manual will have instructions for assigning focus to a button on the back and switching it off on the shutter button.
 
A silly question really but how can you ensure the exposure is correct? I know there's a light meter in the camera it self but I don't want to keep checking that and miss my shots. I feel like I don't take enough photos of my children. Do you all print out your photos? I'm going to do a mass exodus soon :)
 
The easy bit.
Start with the cameras meter, and use an auto mode so that you have control over your image, ie choose your aperture, let the camera sort the shutter speed.

The less easy bit.
Sometimes your camera meter will get it wrong, because it's not you. It'll be fooled by light or dark subjects or surroundings, keep calm and you'll learn when this will happen, so you can deal with it, either by using exposure compensation, or by locking your exposure.

The geeky bit.
You might be able to program your camera to set auto ISO and ensure that you keep a high enough shutter speed. Also, if your meter is 'nearly there' and you shoot in Raw mode, you'll be able to tweak your exposure in post process.

Printing:
I sometimes (rarely) print my images for me, I regularly print albums for customers, but take heed of what I said about keepers, don't expect every shot to be perfect. And remember, the more practice you have the better you'll get.
 
Check the histogram on the LCD (ocassionally - not after every shot) , also if you camera has it turn on 'blinky highlights' (or whatever its actually called) , which makes the over exposed bits flash on the LCD
 
In addition to the above advice.
Learn how to read a histogram.
Learn how the in camera metering system works.
Learn how to use exposure compensation (if needed).
I usually take a couple of test shots to get me in the ball park.
Practice, a lot.

Our children have now grown up (37 and 27 years old) so now it is grand children. We would not print any more than about 6/year. However I will publish about 150/year for other family members and I do know some of hjem are printed out.
 
I'm in a similar position that our kids are little tear-abouts and won't stay still for very long. Our eldest is a bugger for posing for a shot but will invariably pull the most ridiculous face so it's best to get him when he's in full flow and sometimes the shutter speed is too slow to get a good capture. I've recently gone to multi point auto focus but had some really bad results with this so probably going back to single point and telling the camera what the subject is.

Will certainly see if I can do back button focussing with my D7000 and try that too.
 
Wow what a vast improvement at using AI Servo and a fast shutter speed. Thank you so much When using one shot though and a shallow depth of field (2.8) and a very active child do you still focus on the face to ensure its in focus and not soft and then recompose shot and risk having (yet another) blurry photo or just focus anywhere on the child?
 
I always focus on the face, particularly the eyes, for people, birds and animals. I tend to shoot a bit "loose" and tidy up the comp, if needed, when post processing.

This was shot indoors, hand held, with availabe (window) day light. 1/500 @ f2, ISO 800 and F=50mm. A Canon 70D with a Canon 50mm f1.4 lens was used.
Imige was downsized and sharpened for web publication.

Daddy by Richard Taylor, on Flickr
 
Wow what a vast improvement at using AI Servo and a fast shutter speed. Thank you so much When using one shot though and a shallow depth of field (2.8) and a very active child do you still focus on the face to ensure its in focus and not soft and then recompose shot and risk having (yet another) blurry photo or just focus anywhere on the child?
Focus on the closest eye.

That might sound overly precise, but try an experiment on a static adult. Have them 45degrees to the camera, takes shots focussed on; the nearest eye, the furthest eye, the near ear, and their collar, all at 2.8 and a reasonable portrait distance.

When you see the images on the computer you'll see that everything except the nearest eye looks 'odd', and if it wasn't for this, you'd not work out why.

As humans, we connect with faces, and particularly with eyes. You can mitigate this by using a smaller aperture at a further distance, then it just needs to be a face in focus.
 
also if they are running about f2.8 may give too shallow a dof (its fine for static portraits as richard illustrates), you may be better off with about f5.6 - although its nice to have a shallow dof to render a clean background, it is probably preferable to have an in focus child against a slightly messy background than risking the main subject being oof
 
I give up!!! Had my first outing yesterday with everyone's very helpful tips and I've still come home with out of focus photos, noisy photos (despite shooting at ISO 100); what am I doing wrong?? I'll post some photos to show you. Basically there's no issue with photos when my daughter poses but as soon as she's on the move that's it, the photos are rubbish. Please ignore the composition. Help would be much appreciated
Thanks

To me...the one where she is stood in front of the train looks out of focus, the running one definitely and some of them look noisy...maybe I need new glasses :LOL:
 
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I give up!!! Had my first outing yesterday with everyone's very helpful tips and I've still come home with out of focus photos, noisy photos (despite shooting at ISO 100); what am I doing wrong?? I'll post some photos to show you. Basically there's no issue with photos when my daughter poses but as soon as she's on the move that's it, the photos are rubbish. Please ignore the composition. Help would be much appreciated
Thanks

To me...the one where she is stood in front of the train looks out of focus, the running one definitely and some of them look noisy...maybe I need new glasses :LOL:
The one where she's stood in front of the train is in focus:D and charming, the running one is out of focus, but if she was running, it's a tricky subject.
I can't see any noise issues, the only way you'd get them at ISO 100 is if you're seriously under exposing and pulling it back in post.

All I can say honestly though is you're being hard on yourself, it takes a long time and a lot of practice to get good at this, your camera craft and photographic skill will continue to improve for years (mine still is after 30 years).

I sometimes see images I was happy with ten years ago and I'm embarrassed by them. And remember ten years ago I had been photographing semi professionally for 15 years.
 
On my computer the train one looks like she is out of focus, for some reason it's come into focus on onedrive. How do I post a photo here at max size please?
 
On my computer the train one looks like she is out of focus, for some reason it's come into focus on onedrive. How do I post a photo here at max size please?
You can link from Flickr, if the images were full size on your one drive would be available to us at full size too.
 
A tip on AI Servo use:

When focussing on a moving subject, you have to start focussing before the shot happens, keep focussing by keeping the focus point over your subject and keep shooting, with the best camera and lens you could expect to get a 100% keeper rate as far as focus goes*, with lesser gear that starts to reduce, but that's why your technique has to be great and you have to shoot loads.

*then you'd end up choosing the image based on timing and expression.

So you understand from my real life experience; during a confetti toss, I'll focus on the bride, and as the couple walk through the shower of confetti, 2 of us will be shooting almost continuously, from about 40 images shot in about 20 seconds, we'll then choose about 6 or so. And that's within quite a confined set of movements with added randomness from the confetti.

Do you think we think twice about having to throw away the other 30 odd images?
 
OK have realised that each of my shots won't be perfect first time or second time or even third time and that I have to be trigger happy and work on technique. At least I am taking my camera out more now, for the last two years I must have taken it out a handful of times as always juggling the baby too, now that I have two I thought i would juggle both and a camera :)

Have to say had a little read on back button focus last night during a feeding session and have tried it today, wow it does getting used to! do you refocus if the child is on the move again but in the same sort of area? if you understand what i mean.

I will upload full size images on one drive, i reduced the size down for here
 
OK have realised that each of my shots won't be perfect first time or second time or even third time and that I have to be trigger happy and work on technique. At least I am taking my camera out more now, for the last two years I must have taken it out a handful of times as always juggling the baby too, now that I have two I thought i would juggle both and a camera :)

Have to say had a little read on back button focus last night during a feeding session and have tried it today, wow it does getting used to! do you refocus if the child is on the move again but in the same sort of area? if you understand what i mean.

I will upload full size images on one drive, i reduced the size down for here
Just for clarity before anyone argues that I'm condoning 'spray and pray' rather than considering a shot properly...

What the OP needs is practice, and what she appears to be suffering from is a belief that she should get it right most of the time.

I wouldn't buy a guitar, and strap it on to go play in front of my mates at a first attempt, or jump in a car for the first time and expect to pass my test. I think I'd have to learn, practice and improve. Driving or playing a musical instrument aren't impossible to learn, or even that difficult, but they take a little effort, and so does photography. And whilst lots of people can do it to an OK level, to be really good.... that takes more effort again.
 
Completely agree with you Phil, it is taking multiple shots trying different things each time and realising what i am doing wrong rather aiming for that one shot. I really appreciate all your help. Thank you
 
see if your camera lets you set a minimum shutter speed, then you don't have to worry too much about resetting it if you're out and about with the kids. and completely agree that 1 in 10 is fine! i'd try not to get too hung up on technical excellence when it's your own children as you'll likely throw away some great moments. have a look at some "arty" blurry shots of children in motion and see if you like the more abstract style, you might be able to rescue some great (apart from the blur) shots with some artistic post processing.
 
The one where she's stood in front of the train is in focus:D and charming, the running one is out of focus, but if she was running, it's a tricky subject.
I can't see any noise issues, the only way you'd get them at ISO 100 is if you're seriously under exposing and pulling it back in post.

All I can say honestly though is you're being hard on yourself, it takes a long time and a lot of practice to get good at this, your camera craft and photographic skill will continue to improve for years (mine still is after 30 years).

I sometimes see images I was happy with ten years ago and I'm embarrassed by them. And remember ten years ago I had been photographing semi professionally for 15 years.
Just got to say here, Ive only been on this site for 2 or 3 weeks and Iv been surfing all through the forums picking up loads of tips and tricks and I keep seeing Phils name on so many discussions, listening, helping and encouraging...Hats off to you Phil you're a superstar mate!
 
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