Beginner Starting out with IR using the Hoya R72 filter.

rob-nikon

rob-nikon

Messages
6,951
Name
Rob
Edit My Images
Yes
I've recently picked up a Hoya R72 to try out IR, it's something I've thought about trying for a while. I thought I would post asking if anyone can point me in the right direction of turtorials/help. I'm currently interested in the possibilities of B&W high contrast processing rather than the false colour. So far it seems the Hoya R72 needs an extra 10-12 stops exposure to compensate for the dark filter.

Here is result of a quick trial in my garden earlier.

First IR trial image by -Rob - Nikon-
 
  • Like
Reactions: ST4
Looks great! Probably works for landscapes and long exposures? To have a more practical option I sent my old 350D off to lifepixel to convert to infra red (b&w as you are looking for). There are some tips on their website too as I recall.
 
rob-nikon said:
....... So far it seems the Hoya R72 needs an extra 10-12 stops exposure to compensate for the dark filter.
Click to expand...
The R72 is blocking around 4 stops and the remaining 6-8 stops are lost by the IR blocking filter in the camera. The R72 is doing its best to only allow IR and the hot mirror is doing its best not to allow IR.
The shot looks good although there may be a hint of lens induced hotstop in the centre (difficult to tell with the composition).

Life Pixel have a wealth of information and tips on their site.... https://www.lifepixel.com/infrared-photography-primer

Bob
 
Just by adding a filter, results vary by camera (and lens) but as Bob says you're fighting the system and it's always going to be an uphill struggle. Older cameras with CCD sensors are said to be better, eg Nikon D70, D40 etc.

I would just buy a cheap old DSLR and have it converted. Advanced Camera Services in Norfolk is another popular place for conversions, and a little nearer to home
http://www.advancedcameraservices.co.uk/
 
I bought my full spectrum converted Panny G1 on these forums.

Great camera.

Depending on the filter used I can take 590Nm faux colour all the way up to 950Nm near Infrared shots.

Also if a scene doesn't work with one filter try a different wavelength one. Sometimes you get a keeper when you thought there was no point in trying.
 
Canon Bob said:
The R72 is blocking around 4 stops and the remaining 6-8 stops are lost by the IR blocking filter in the camera. The R72 is doing its best to only allow IR and the hot mirror is doing its best not to allow IR.
The shot looks good although there may be a hint of lens induced hotstop in the centre (difficult to tell with the composition).

Life Pixel have a wealth of information and tips on their site.... https://www.lifepixel.com/infrared-photography-primer

Bob
Click to expand...
Whilst processing this I noticed the hotspot. I need to do a bit more testing with my lenses to see which work best with IR.
 
HoppyUK said:
Just by adding a filter, results vary by camera (and lens) but as Bob says you're fighting the system and it's always going to be an uphill struggle. Older cameras with CCD sensors are said to be better, eg Nikon D70, D40 etc.

I would just buy a cheap old DSLR and have it converted. Advanced Camera Services in Norfolk is another popular place for conversions, and a little nearer to home
http://www.advancedcameraservices.co.uk/
Click to expand...
I thought about a converted IR camera but as an introduction to IR the Hoya R72 seems to be a good low cost introduction. Converting a camera costs a lot more, in the future I may go that way if I find I like it.
 
rob-nikon said:
I thought about a converted IR camera but as an introduction to IR the Hoya R72 seems to be a good low cost introduction. Converting a camera costs a lot more, in the future I may go that way if I find I like it.
Click to expand...

Rob, the big disadvantage with the R72 over a converted camera, is that with the R72, most shots have to be tripod based, or if not you are winding up the ISO to maintain a stable image. With a converted camera, the hot mirror is removed, and replaced with an IR filter, so you have less 'stops' in the way enabling decent handheld shots to be taken.

As long as you can work around this with the R72, then you are fine, have a play and if you feel that IR is for you, then get a converted camera, the choices in conversion are quite wide.

As Canon Bob says, there are lists on the internet regarding hotspot issues with lenses, some can be removed in PP, others are more severe.
 
I tried out the Hoya r72 filter in the Lake District at the weekend. Whilst the Nikon 20mm f1.8 G seems to be affected by hotspots, the Nikon 24-120 f4 and Nikon 70-200 f2.8 seem to work perfectly. The Hoya R72 filter does mean it's in long exposure territory overall it worked out OK, it's a good introduction to whether I would like it enough to get a converter IR camera. I'm currently not a big fan of the IR bright white look but the high contrast black and white images really appeal to me. Below are a couple of images I took at east water in dappled sunlight and partially overcast conditions.


Lingmell and Wasdale Head Hall Farm- Infrared B&W by Rob Cain, on Flickr

 
I do love my infrared stuff - I started off with the R72 but just couldn't get along with it for some reason. I ended up going for a DSLR I bought from here & got it converted, by far the best way to go if you do decide to take more IR images.
Here's a few of mine:

The_Abbey by Michael Garton, on Flickr
Fire in the sky by Michael Garton, on Flickr
Sentinel by Michael Garton, on Flickr
 
rob-nikon said:
Whilst processing this I noticed the hotspot. I need to do a bit more testing with my lenses to see which work best with IR.
Click to expand...

Different lenses produce different results, but are you covering the viewfinder while you are taking the photo? Some cameras will be affected by light coming through the viewfinder and this will appear as a "hotspot" in the centre of the photo.
 
Peter B said:
Different lenses produce different results, but are you covering the viewfinder while you are taking the photo? Some cameras will be affected by light coming through the viewfinder and this will appear as a "hotspot" in the centre of the photo.
Click to expand...
I covered the viewfinder all of the time in the lakes except on one day where I forgot and a line appeared in the same position in all images taken that day. I had visited a few locations that day so I could only put it down to not covering the viewfinder, once covered again it worked fine. I found the line didn't show on the 'red' raw file but once coverted using David Clapp's guide it appeared as a wide blue line across the frame. I can't remember if I covered the viewfinder in the 20mm test but I was using live view so I should have done so. I'm going to do a bit more testing closer to home with the 20mm to how it's affected as I didn't want to do in the lakes after finding the 24-120 and 70-200 performed well.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top