The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

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And the following is not really A7 related as it's about Fuji xtrans v bayer and I don't want to get into that argument but I found it interesting as it gives a bit of an insight into the in camera workings that affect the image and maybe give a look and also to marketing speak.

https://petapixel.com/2017/03/03/x-trans-vs-bayer-sensors-fantastic-claims-test/

A couple of things I do play with are temperature and tint, that's about as technical as I get but even these simple things can give a completely different look :D
 
woof woof said:
And the following is not really A7 related as it's about Fuji xtrans v bayer and I don't want to get into that argument but I found it interesting as it gives a bit of an insight into the in camera workings that affect the image and maybe give a look and also to marketing speak.

https://petapixel.com/2017/03/03/x-trans-vs-bayer-sensors-fantastic-claims-test/

A couple of things I do play with are temperature and tint, that's about as technical as I get but even these simple things can give a completely different look :D
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That article is flawed as the base files are synthesised, to me the Fuji XT-2 files easily rival my Sony A7 files ;)
Why didn't the reviewer use a two Fuji bodies, X-Trans vs Bayer?
 
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He does answer the flawed question argument and imo adequately so for anyone willing to be objective but we're getting into the tired old argument here and that wasn't the point. The point was that I think it's an interesting piece on how it's all done, xtrans and bayer, in the camera. I'm not making any judgement on iq.

Re the tired old argument the files are out there should anyone wish to download and compare and plently of people have or do own both...

Generally though, I should have known better and should have posted this in another thread, if at all.
 
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Fuguru said:
That article is flawed as the base files are synthesised, to me the Fuji XT-2 files easily rival my Sony A7 files ;)
Why didn't the reviewer use a two Fuji bodies, X-Trans vs Bayer?
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Not really for this thread (sorry Woofs), but I now have both bayer and x-trans Fuji bodies to compare (when I have time). The obvious difference is the noise at high ISO on the bayer sensor model. The X-Trans is way more pleasing.

BTW, I tested Fuji X-Trans v Canon EOS 6D a while back and the Canon files were more detailed at 1:1 scale when using the same Zeiss lens. It was a tricky test though as the Canon had a higher res sensor to start with anyway,

There is an obvious point made by one poster on that article which resonated with me. All cameras are capable today - the best one for each individual is the one which we get on with the most and meets our own indivdual needs. Obvious really, but it hit home when I tested out that D300 last night!
 
Re the Godox speedlights, I can confirm that the RT16/16s commander/transmitter unit (lencarta wavesync commander) & receivers work fine with the AD180 & V850's (all manual flashes) on the A7r in fact I even had them syncing at 1/200th instead of the stated 1/160th, also the V850's work fine when mounted direct to the A7r's hot shoe with no wobble from any of them.

As for the new A7r itself, wow, the iQ is mind blowing, even with ISO's as high as 6400 producing more than usable results! The shutter? it doesn't bother me that much, reminds me of some of the older Nikons, though the D100 I had used to feel like it was going to jump out of your hand after scaring the living poop out of you with the noise of the shutter! SS isn't that much of an issue, hand held in very low light with shutter speeds below 1/125th theres shake evident, but I'm not sure if its these old hands or the shutter.
As already said no problem in working with the speed lights etc and after following an excellent set up tutorial video its all good.
I have to ask though, what moron came up with the idea of charging the battering in body!!! not only is it slower than a tortoise on valium its also dangerous, if a battery gets a short for some reason you could loose the whole camera if it overheats! An after market charger is a must.

In a way its kind of sad to find something that can finally beat my beloved X-Pro1 for iQ and if you disregard the EVF housing in a smaller package, nearly as light and with over twice the resolution! But I'll still hang onto the X-pro1 its more than earned its keep over the years and I just can't bear to part with it.

Another surprise was the lowly FE 50mm F1.8, I'd seen quite a few scathing write ups on it but its really not that bad at all, Ok not as critically sharp as the Fuji 35mm f1.4 but sharp enough, bright and in the case of my copy quite speedy once the pre focus was turned of in the camera. Even in low light its taking a lot to trick it into hunting. so all good there.
 
BacktotheFuji said:
Not really for this thread (sorry Woofs),...
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Hey, whatever :D

On the subject of capable cameras. I have compacts which are ok for whole images even into very high ISO's and it really only all falls apart at stratospheric ISO when you pixel peep. MFT is easily better than anything I got from film and I can get useable results at ISO 25,600 and again it really only falls apart when pixel peeping but with MFT I can do a 100% crop of low ISO shots and it still looks good on screen and in print.

The A7 is honestly overkill for me but I still want it for thee reasons, it's small, to use manual lenses on and to get the best possible image quality I can of people and places that matter to me without spending stupid money :D

BTW. In another thread I mentioned some pictures of a part time model friend of mine taken with a D300. My GF's modeling shots were taken with a 6D and honestly I can't see any quality differences between them but of course both sets were taken by capable professional photographers in controlled conditions. I need all the help I can get when I'm going for quality :D
 
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magicaxeman said:
As for the new A7r itself, wow, the iQ is mind blowing, even with ISO's as high as 6400 producing more than usable results!
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Glad you're enjoying it :) The a7r has a fantastic sensor, the best I've used and it's well proven in the D800/D810/K1. The a7r was the first camera to actually expose some of my older lenses' weaknesses. My Zeiss Distagon 35/2.8 (C/Y) had CA that I didn't even know existed at 36MP :eek:
 
woof woof said:
He does answer the flawed question argument and imo adequately so for anyone willing to be objective but we're getting into the tired old argument here and that wasn't the point. The point was that I think it's an interesting piece on how it's all done, xtrans and bayer, in the camera. I'm not making any judgement on iq.

Re the tired old argument the files are out there should anyone wish to download and compare and plently of people have or do own both...

Generally though, I should have known better and should have posted this in another thread, if at all.
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I agree its a interesting read but that's all it is, modern sensors are pretty good these days and way surpass the older 35mm FF generation of sensors, that's good enough for me at present.
What I do believe other manufacturers should consider is something which Sony has already done with the A7S / SII and that's a low mega-pixel high ISO monster, for example imagine if Fuji did a 12mp sensor, the ISO ability would be great which is something people seem to go on about.
 
Durbs said:
Nope... It transfers a 2mb file on the phone for review, but Fine JPG on camera, even though 'M' mode is set to RAW when not using the phone. On further digging, the smart remote actually has a separate menu (in the app) which had this setting - just didn't think to check that using the remote would affect the camera settings...

Aside from this, and actually they required so little PP that RAW wasn't really required. the app was actually very good. It does some "clever" stuff, such as normally i have BBF, but this is disabled using the app (which is essential but could've been overlooked). Occasional delay on the shutter button, but generally worked a charm. Being able to show "clients" SOOC shots straight away was great for the vain :)
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Just following up on this - found over on DPreview - you can shoot as RAW, but the camera has to be set to JPEG+RAW on the camera, from within the app.
"Obviously".
 
Fuguru said:
I agree its a interesting read but that's all it is, modern sensors are pretty good these days and way surpass the older 35mm FF generation of sensors, that's good enough for me at present.
What I do believe other manufacturers should consider is something which Sony has already done with the A7S / SII and that's a low mega-pixel high ISO monster, for example imagine if Fuji did a 12mp sensor, the ISO ability would be great which is something people seem to go on about.
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I think Sony have done something quite clever in introducing largely the same A7 series camera with three different chips and that must keep the costs down. Has anyone else done that? Dunno, I think they've done something very similar with the A6xxx too? Anyway, I've never really looked at the performance of these cameras but downsizing a high mp count image to match the res of the lower mp count low light performing camera must close the gap a bit.

One thing I often do is downsize for final viewing and it really does make a difference to the high ISO shots, and I do use the max 25,600 of my cameras sometimes. Maybe some people do need the full sized image but there must be a lot of people who like me could downsize and be happy with the final result.

And on another note... Bristol Cameras have just refunded my money but I so wanted that lens and I'd love to try another.

And on another another note... me and GF have just set a date for our wedding!!!!! This was put back due to a health scare which turned out to be something and nothing and mostly a misdiagnosis but we're back on track now :D and will be married in July. A family member is a part time photographer so I'll ask her if she'll do the shots, she's a Canon shooter so we wont expect too much... :D

(That's a joke happy Conon guys.)
 
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I have C1 set as my "snap shot" mode, so it's set to shoot at 18 mega-pixels and jpg as 42 is unnecessary for random shots of family. The images are still fantastic.

A/S/M however all do go to the full 42mp and RAW as these tend to be for "proper" photography moments. Often this is more for cropping potential rather than ultimate image quality.

Out of curiosity, for LightRoom users, what 'Quality' do you export at?
 
New Sony FE camera designations registered in china which means its close to release (weeks/months)
Rumours confirm two high-end models.

A 70mp model with a slower FPS, geared for the high resolution rather max AF / FPS speed.

A 24mp model for blistering AF with a minimum 20fps.

Suggested price for the 24mp model is $6000 :eek:
 
Fuguru said:
Suggested price for the 24mp model is $6000 :eek:
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I suppose the price has to be viewed in context and compared to the competition but I've no idea what the competition is as I've never for a single second considered spending £6k on a camera.

What's the competition?
 
woof woof said:
I suppose the price has to be viewed in context and compared to the competition but I've no idea what the competition is as I've never for a single second considered spending £6k on a camera.

What's the competition?
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I believe Sony will be going for the big guns from Nikon & Canon.... D5s and 1DXII. :D
 
Just Googled those and they seem to be £4.5k to just over £5k but they're old tech DSLR's so maybe there's a premium built in for the mirrorless as it's the future :D

I'll read the reports and reviews and I suppose the tech in these cameras could / will appear in cheaper cameras in years to come but £4k-£6k for a camera means it's just pure interest for me and zero buying intent.
 
woof woof said:
Just Googled those and they seem to be £4.5k to just over £5k but they're old tech DSLR's so maybe there's a premium built in for the mirrorless as it's the future :D

I'll read the reports and reviews and I suppose the tech in these cameras could / will appear in cheaper cameras in years to come but £4k-£6k for a camera means it's just pure interest for me and zero buying intent.
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I agree and I think I have learnt my lesson in chasing the technical latest and greatest... I once had 2x A7RII's and a A7II at the same time :eek:
 
Guys, quick one...

What do you think the lens options are for a reasonably priced wide angle prime for the A7. I'm struggling.

I've thought 28 f2. but not sure if that isn't wide enough.

What I like the idea of is the 20mm pancake for the A6000, and which that on my A7II, but it vignettes too much. Thoughts on a cheap comparison?

To help, I'd be using for city-scapes, interior details of cars, the odd 'tight situation' street photography.

Not too interested in the 16-35mm as its heavy and expensive, unless somebody wants to flog me one at a stupidly low price.

Thanks
 
Ashburner said:
Guys, quick one...

What do you think the lens options are for a reasonably priced wide angle prime for the A7. I'm struggling.

I've thought 28 f2. but not sure if that isn't wide enough.

What I like the idea of is the 20mm pancake for the A6000, and which that on my A7II, but it vignettes too much. Thoughts on a cheap comparison?

To help, I'd be using for city-scapes, interior details of cars, the odd 'tight situation' street photography.

Not too interested in the 16-35mm as its heavy and expensive, unless somebody wants to flog me one at a stupidly low price.

Thanks
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The 28 f2 is excellent and very portable. It's not ultra wide but I think it's wide enough and pretty fast.
 
Another vote for the 28mm, when i travel light its whats glued the front....
 
Could go for a 24mm f2.8 manual lens, wider than that tends to be rare or expensive or both. There is the cheapo 19-35mm which was badged by several including Cosina, Vivitar and I think Tokina but that would nead adapting as would the cheapo Canon 20-35mm USM I had.
 
Guys help me with video

If I use my spangly new 24-70 GM the video works fine and as I zoom I get the feeling that the camera keeps focus is that right, sorry for the noddy questions but using adapted glass as I zoomed it just went out of focus and I had to press the shutter for it to refocus again

So in short is there any need to use the shutter button when videoing to get the camera to refocus, or do all I need to do is zoom in and out and the camera will take care of the rest. Thanks
 
addicknchips said:
The 28 f2 is excellent and very portable. It's not ultra wide but I think it's wide enough and pretty fast.
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littleted said:
Another vote for the 28mm, when i travel light its whats glued the front....
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woof woof said:
Could go for a 24mm f2.8 manual lens, wider than that tends to be rare or expensive or both. There is the cheapo 19-35mm which was badged by several including Cosina, Vivitar and I think Tokina but that would nead adapting as would the cheapo Canon 20-35mm USM I had.
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28mm would be my ideal choice, in terms of size, speed and to look nice against my 55mm, but not sure if it's wide enough. I did have a 24-70 that was often at the 24mm mark, and even that was 50% of the time not wide enough.
Hence the reason looking at 20mm pancake. Has anybody tried it?
 
Ashburner said:
28mm would be my ideal choice, in terms of size, speed and to look nice against my 55mm, but not sure if it's wide enough. I did have a 24-70 that was often at the 24mm mark, and even that was 50% of the time not wide enough.
Hence the reason looking at 20mm pancake. Has anybody tried it?
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Not tried it and have read very mixed opinions on it. Not a fan of putting crop lenses on ff body personally.
Don't samyang do a wide prime? -scrap that, just seen you want af. I'd get the zeiss 16-35. Versatile and not too big. I took it to Paris with me and loved it.
 
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I'm looking to get a 16-35, anyone know where they are a good price? Most are upwards of 800 quid.
 
littleted said:
Guys help me with video

If I use my spangly new 24-70 GM the video works fine and as I zoom I get the feeling that the camera keeps focus is that right, sorry for the noddy questions but using adapted glass as I zoomed it just went out of focus and I had to press the shutter for it to refocus again

So in short is there any need to use the shutter button when videoing to get the camera to refocus, or do all I need to do is zoom in and out and the camera will take care of the rest. Thanks
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Do you have any other native zoom lenses as they would work in the same way so you could just try it?

As far as I know, shooting video will make the body default to continuous AF (unless you switch to manual focus) so it essentially works like a camcorder as long as you keep your subject within the focus points so the body knows where to focus.
 
Ashburner said:
28mm would be my ideal choice, in terms of size, speed and to look nice against my 55mm, but not sure if it's wide enough. I did have a 24-70 that was often at the 24mm mark, and even that was 50% of the time not wide enough.
Hence the reason looking at 20mm pancake. Has anybody tried it?
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The 20mm works out as roughly a 30mm taking the APS-C crop factor into account, so if its wide enough on a 6000 then 28mm should be wide enough on the FF
 
stevelmx5 said:
Do you have any other native zoom lenses as they would work in the same way so you could just try it?

As far as I know, shooting video will make the body default to continuous AF (unless you switch to manual focus) so it essentially works like a camcorder as long as you keep your subject within the focus points so the body knows where to focus.
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Thanks Steve, yeah i tested it last night and it all seems good, as long as I'm not too hasty in moving it keep focus good.

Sorry for posting but i was away from home and eager to know LOL..
 
woof woof said:
Just Googled those and they seem to be £4.5k to just over £5k but they're old tech DSLR's so maybe there's a premium built in for the mirrorless as it's the future :D

I'll read the reports and reviews and I suppose the tech in these cameras could / will appear in cheaper cameras in years to come but £4k-£6k for a camera means it's just pure interest for me and zero buying intent.
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Yup it's silly money. Leica territory
 
Ashburner said:
Hi Magic,

I meant putting the 20mm on the A7II and keeping it in full frame mode to keep it at 20mm, but I think it vignettes far too much
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The 10-18mm works on full frame between 12-17 without vignetting. I'm looking at buying it as well as I can use it on my a6000 and a7r2 and it is considered a good lens
The 16-35 is a better lens but it is big and expensive.
I want a wide zoom so I can see what FL I like and then buy a prime at the right FL as I know I want wider than 30mm but I'm not sure how much wider. This will give me a range of 12-27 across both cameras
 
jonneymendoza said:
Yup it's silly money. Leica territory
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Well, no... it's not silly money is it? It's silly money for a hobby shooter like me taking pictures of scenery and posed people shots with a 40 year old lens because an A7 would be fine for that but it's roughly in line with what Canon and Nikon charge for their high performance flagship models and for those who need the performance of these high end models maybe the price is a little easier to understand. It's not as if the high end Canon and Nikon models are £2k is it? But we'll be able to judge better when the spec and camera/cameras are out.

I don't think that comparisons with Leica are the best as Leica can be expensive collectors items of questionable performance and quality but I don't think that the high end Sony will be aiming to be either.
 
woof woof said:
Well, no... it's not silly money is it? It's silly money for a hobby shooter like me taking pictures of scenery and posed people shots with a 40 year old lens because an A7 would be fine for that but it's roughly in line with what Canon and Nikon charge for their high performance flagship models and for those who need the performance of these high end models maybe the price is a little easier to understand. It's not as if the high end Canon and Nikon models are £2k is it? But we'll be able to judge better when the spec and camera/cameras are out.

I don't think that comparisons with Leica are the best as Leica can be expensive collectors items of questionable performance and quality but I don't think that the high end Sony will be aiming to be either.
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The 1dx mk2 is not 6k and it has far more lenses in the tele side to justify its main usage
 
Ashburner said:
The 16/35 would be my dream, but at the moment it is just too expensive for me needs
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Ash id get the 28 F2 i use it for most stuff and its great, its only just been demoted as i bought the 24-70GM, which is heavy but by god its tack sharp.... exciting doing HDR with it, like razor sharp...

You could always get the Minolta MD lens mount and buy up all the old Minolta Glass, its dirt cheap but Manual .....if you want cheap wide you've got 1 option really
Samyang but manual, failing that the 28mm...
 
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