The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

I've just tried my 1/8 black diffusion filter on my 50mm f1.4 and I can barely see a difference with and without it. I'll do some more tests under different lighting but I think I'll likely exchange it for a 1/4 filter.
 
snerkler said:
I've just tried my 1/8 black diffusion filter on my 50mm f1.4 and I can barely see a difference with and without it. I'll do some more tests under different lighting but I think I'll likely exchange it for a 1/4 filter.
Click to expand...

I would suggest that 1/4 is a good starting point, but to check your 1/8th and differences try it with a bright light in the FOV
 
Mr Perceptive said:
I would suggest that 1/4 is a good starting point, but to check your 1/8th and differences try it with a bright light in the FOV
Click to expand...
I did try that. I’m going to see what it’s like in the paddock at Donington this weekend (weather permitting) but I’m pretty sure I’m going to swap it.
 
What is the "best" adaptor for Nikkor F mount (50/1.4 Ais) into Sony E-mount?

Just ordered one from Japan for my FM2 but might be fun to put it on the Sony.
 
Novoflex are the most expensive I have.

I've bought quite a few adapters over the years and if you get a good cheap one it'll be fine. I've even had to send a Novoflex back.

I have Novoflex for my Rokkor, Zuiko and FD's. I have cheap adapters for the other mounts I have.

PS.
My 50mm f1.4 AIS performs well on my A7 but it and the other AIS lenses I have are probably the most modern rendering film era lens I have. If that's the look you want they fine but compared to other stuff they lack some flaws/character.
 
Last edited:
I'm quite impressed with the Pergear 35mm f1.4.

Whole picture. I can't remember if it was f5.6 or f8.

kPnUhoI.jpg


100%.

Bottom left.

kmdWv6i.jpg


Bottom right.

DC6lJOM.jpg


Top left.

UgYQ4ie.jpg


Top right.

iTjRhta.jpg


I think that's a good performance from a cheap lens. I think it's ok wide open too. I'll have to compare it to my Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 but I think the across the frame performance into the corners is better and I think the bokeh may be slightly less wild at wide apertures. So far the field curvature hasn't been an issue for me.

PS.
One at f1.4.

fbyd2cW.jpg
 
Last edited:
I’m after some advice. I’m looking into moving most, if not all, of my photo editing over on to an iPad using Lightroom Mobile. There’s one bit I’m struggling to get an answer for, and hoping someone here can help. I plan to download images from an SD card straight on to an external SDD or HDD via an Anker dongle plugged into my iPad’s USB C port. I then want to add the images into LR mobile on my iPad.

When I do this, do the images remain on the external drive, or will the process of importing them in to Lightroom transfer them to the iPad? If it’s the latter, then I’m going to have to budget for an updated iPad with more memory, something I’d prefer to avoid if possible.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Simon.
 
srhmoto said:
I’m after some advice. I’m looking into moving most, if not all, of my photo editing over on to an iPad using Lightroom Mobile. There’s one bit I’m struggling to get an answer for, and hoping someone here can help. I plan to download images from an SD card straight on to an external SDD or HDD via an Anker dongle plugged into my iPad’s USB C port. I then want to add the images into LR mobile on my iPad.

When I do this, do the images remain on the external drive, or will the process of importing them in to Lightroom transfer them to the iPad? If it’s the latter, then I’m going to have to budget for an updated iPad with more memory, something I’d prefer to avoid if possible.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Simon.
Click to expand...
I’m not sure how you can transfer straight from an SD card onto and external drive being as the iPad only had one USB port?

In answer to the question, I’ve never done it with an external drive, but transfering images to the iPad from the SD card has always left the data on the card so I don’t see why it would be any different using a drive. I don’t use LR mobile, but can you edit using images on the drive or would you have to transfer them across to the iPad first?
 
snerkler said:
I’m not sure how you can transfer straight from an SD card onto and external drive being as the iPad only had one USB port?

In answer to the question, I’ve never done it with an external drive, but transfering images to the iPad from the SD card has always left the data on the card so I don’t see why it would be any different using a drive. I don’t use LR mobile, but can you edit using images on the drive or would you have to transfer them across to the iPad first?
Click to expand...
You can do it using this dongle


Your last sentence is exactly what I’m trying to find out!

Cheers,

Simon.
 
@ukaskew do you use a monopod for slow shutter panning? I’ve tried using one a few times but just find then awkward, but I’m wondering whether it’s worth persevering with to improve my hit rate.
 
srhmoto said:
I’m after some advice. I’m looking into moving most, if not all, of my photo editing over on to an iPad using Lightroom Mobile. There’s one bit I’m struggling to get an answer for, and hoping someone here can help. I plan to download images from an SD card straight on to an external SDD or HDD via an Anker dongle plugged into my iPad’s USB C port. I then want to add the images into LR mobile on my iPad.

When I do this, do the images remain on the external drive, or will the process of importing them in to Lightroom transfer them to the iPad? If it’s the latter, then I’m going to have to budget for an updated iPad with more memory, something I’d prefer to avoid if possible.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Simon.
Click to expand...

Normally lightroom works with the images in their location, and importing is only telling lightroom where to find the image - unless lightroom works differently on iDevices.
 
snerkler said:
@ukaskew do you use a monopod for slow shutter panning? I’ve tried using one a few times but just find then awkward, but I’m wondering whether it’s worth persevering with to improve my hit rate.
Click to expand...

Nope, can't get on with them at all both in terms of carting one round all day (I move constantly) and actually using it to make any appreciable difference. I'm sure they do help, they must do, probably great for ultimate sharpness when doing frozen head-on shots but it's quite a bit of faff, more so as I rarely pan straight!
 
ukaskew said:
Nope, can't get on with them at all both in terms of carting one round all day (I move constantly) and actually using it to make any appreciable difference. I'm sure they do help, they must do, probably great for ultimate sharpness when doing frozen head-on shots but it's quite a bit of faff, more so as I rarely pan straight!
Click to expand...
Thanks, exactly my issues with them.

I do wonder how folk pan at 1/8 with a 600mm f4 and get tack sharp images though:oops: :$
 
snerkler said:
Thanks, exactly my issues with them.

I do wonder how folk pan at 1/8 with a 600mm f4 and get tack sharp images though:oops: :$
Click to expand...

1000 shots, only need one banger :) I have 600mm now so I'll give it a go next weekend.
 
After a frustrating day at Donington today I am pleased to find out that the EVF of the A1 is better than the A9II and the low frame rate limit works well allowing you to track at slow shutter speeds in real time rather than slide show, albeit with blackout :clap:

Obviously some will prefer the uninterrupted slide show view but I prefer the real time view with blackout.
 
Last edited:
snerkler said:
A few photos from the opening round of the British Touring Car Championship and Support races at Donington. Got a bit wet in the afternoon.

More on Flickr

1.

A1_04139 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
....
Click to expand...
You get a better quality of ne'er-do-well at these sort of places obviously, used a nice stand rather than just a few old bricks when they nicked the wheels :LOL:

Great set of shots, BTW!
 
Faldrax said:
You get a better quality of ne'er-do-well at these sort of places obviously, used a nice stand rather than just a few old bricks when they nicked the wheels :LOL:

Great set of shots, BTW!
Click to expand...
Lol, I found them round the back ;)


A1_04166 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

Thanks btw.
 
woof woof said:
Looks like you had a good time, great pictures too :D
Click to expand...
Thanks. Being honest it wasn’t the most enjoyable, I was so cold at one point I couldn’t feel my hands and couldn’t stop my teeth from chattering :oops: :$ But I think it was worth it as some of the shots turned out OK(y)
 
I've been fighting with my A7R V for the entire time I've had it to get it to register via PlayMemories for Wifi transfers to save across my network but I simply cannot get it to play ball
Tried switching between 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz, tried a factory reset - nothing.
This guide says it should appear as an option but it simply does not.

Any idea what might be causing this? (Updated to V2.0 on the firmware, for what that's worth)

Here's a screenshot to show it. (Or the absence of it)

sony.jpg
 
snerkler said:
Thanks, exactly my issues with them.

I do wonder how folk pan at 1/8 with a 600mm f4 and get tack sharp images though:oops: :$
Click to expand...

Stance, core and upper body work and burst shooting, although to be fair I don't venture much below 1/20th.

This is 1/20 with the 400mm f2.8

i-Tkt764r-XL.jpg

i-zGcGkfw-XL.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top