The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

[T_J_G]

Which, the f1.2 or f1.4?

I know

The 1.4

 

[ancient_mariner]

The 50 f1.2 has almost become the only lens I use - Need wider? Stitch for pano. Need longer? Just crop.

 

[Bungieben]

My attempt to remove the dogs thick lead, not my dog by the way.
Pam by Ben Cheneler, on Flickr
Cocker Spaniel by Ben Cheneler, on Flickr

Had a browse through some of these images today on my phone which i don't normally do and they seemed quite dark but ok to me on my Mac studio display which is set to photography p3 d65 so got me thinking the monitor may be to bright.

 

[snerkler]

Had a browse through some of these images today on my phone which i don't normally do and they seemed quite dark but ok to me on my Mac studio display which is set to photography p3 d65 so got me thinking the monitor may be to bright.

They do look a bit underexposed which would suggest your monitor is too bright yeah

 

[Bungieben]

They do look a bit underexposed which would suggest your monitor is too bright yeah

Thank you

 

[snerkler]

Thank you

No worries, been there done that

 

[f/2.8]

I sometimes think I’d be better off with the 50mm f1.4 instead of the f1.2 as it’s very similar size and weight to the 35mm and that’s much nicer to use.

It ain’t much good at f/1.2.

 

[snerkler]

I’m not sure about these lenses if true, 16-25mm and 24-50mm seem like very odd focal lengths to me.

CONFIRMED: New Sony announcement in mid February!!! – sonyalpharumors

www.sonyalpharumors.com

 

[robj20]

24-50 f2.8 sounds great to me.

 

[ancient_mariner]

I had a Soligor 24-45 with my Pentax P30 in the mid-80s. The extra wideness (for the time) was very useful.

 

[snerkler]

I had a Soligor 24-45 with my Pentax P30 in the mid-80s. The extra wideness (for the time) was very useful.

Yeah I get that, but now you have 24-70mm lenses and a 20-40mm lens 24-50mm seems an odd one, unless it's significantly smaller and lighter than the 24-70mm.

 

[ancient_mariner]

Yeah I get that, but now you have 24-70mm lenses and a 20-40mm lens 24-50mm seems an odd one, unless it's significantly smaller and lighter than the 24-70mm.

I imagine it will be small and light, but if not then I agree it's odd. The soligor was an older lens even back then.

 

[Redspider]

Robin. Sony A7CR. Sony 70-350. Raw, low compression. Then resized.
Robin by Andy Williams, on Flickr

 

[snerkler]

I read an interesting thread on DPreview today saying that IBIS/OSS can cause blurry images with high shutter speeds and therefore it’s best to turn them off in this situation.

I can’t say I’ve noticed it before, has anyone on here experienced this? I wonder if AF tracking can be improved by turning it off as it’s one less function for the camera to do?

Whilst talking about IBIS and OSS, if you have an OSS lens does this work in conjunction with IBIS to give an even better accumulative stabilisation, or does the lens OSS ‘disable’ IBIS so you get OSS only?

 

[mav]

I read an interesting thread on DPreview today saying that IBIS/OSS can cause blurry images with high shutter speeds and therefore it’s best to turn them off in this situation.

I can’t say I’ve noticed it before, has anyone on here experienced this? I wonder if AF tracking can be improved by turning it off as it’s one less function for the camera to do?

Whilst talking about IBIS and OSS, if you have an OSS lens does this work in conjunction with IBIS to give an even better accumulative stabilisation, or does the lens OSS ‘disable’ IBIS so you get OSS only?i

They work in tandem ,on the 200-600 if you turn off os on the lens it disables the ibis , general opinion is high shutter speeds for moving objects is turn off os

 

[snerkler]

They work in tandem ,on the 200-600 if you turn off os on the lens it disables the ibis , general opinion is high shutter speeds for moving objects is turn off os

Thanks, yeah I know turning AF off on the lens disables IBIS, but what I meant is if IBIS gives you 5 stops stabilisation and OSS 3 stops, does that give you 8 stops in total?

 

[russellsnr]

Hi, I think I no what the answer to this question is going to be but here goes.
I no that to see the ISO in the viewfinder of the A7iv when using auto ISO you have to half press the shutter button but is there a way like Nikon users to actually see it all the time, find it strange that it is missing from exposure information in the viewfinder. Thank you, Russ.

 

[LongLensPhotography]

I’m not sure about these lenses if true, 16-25mm and 24-50mm seem like very odd focal lengths to me.

CONFIRMED: New Sony announcement in mid February!!! – sonyalpharumors

www.sonyalpharumors.com

It is a bit unconventional, so there has to be something a little special about it: A) better sharpness, zero distortion. I really doubt it as it is not GM; B) incredibly small C) kit lens cheap.

I think it was Sigma who introduced a few lenses like 16-28mm in the contemporary line and the only thing really going for it is the price really, and then it could be more attractive still. So it would appear like Sony needs to play their own card in this field.

These are not terrible focal length choices for the zooms by the way. Most just want their 16-20mm to whatever longer as a bonus. Likewise if you are happy with 50mm all day, 24-50 will do you good, and you are not really shooting any major headshots or wildlife at 67mm or so anyway. You are really looking at 85mm or 105mm+ there. So with good enough savings and IQ uplift balance they may have a good business case here.

 

[Mr Perceptive]

I’m not sure about these lenses if true, 16-25mm and 24-50mm seem like very odd focal lengths to me.

CONFIRMED: New Sony announcement in mid February!!! – sonyalpharumors

www.sonyalpharumors.com

A quality 24-50 fast zoom would be ideal one lens solution for a camera system for me - most of what I shoot falls within these focal lengths - it should be more compact and lighter weight than the equivalent 24-70 and since its a 2x zoom is capable of being made with superb optical properties.

Its an option availabel on the GFX (actually 25-51mm equivalent) with the GF32-64mm but that lens is F4 and just not quite fast enough, so I ended up with 3 primes (24,35,50mm equivalents).

I hope that it is true and its a succesful lens, might then encourage other manufacturers to follow suit.

 

[JJ!]

A quality 24-50 fast zoom would be ideal one lens solution for a camera system for me - most of what I shoot falls within these focal lengths - it should be more compact and lighter weight than the equivalent 24-70 and since its a 2x zoom is capable of being made with superb optical properties.

Its an option availabel on the GFX (actually 25-51mm equivalent) with the GF32-64mm but that lens is F4 and just not quite fast enough, so I ended up with 3 primes (24,35,50mm equivalents).

I hope that it is true and its a succesful lens, might then encourage other manufacturers to follow suit.

That 24-50 would be nice as long as it’s not too large and expensive (which I’m sure it will be )

 

[JJ!]

Got a Samyang 35mm 2.8 coming today as just wanted something tiny and light to tide me by.

I know some of them are not always perfect. What is the best way to check for focus and de-centering issues etc?

 

[nog]

Got a Samyang 35mm 2.8 coming today as just wanted something tiny and light to tide me by.

I know some of them are not always perfect. What is the best way to check for focus and de-centering issues etc?

This may is definitely one for Toby .

 

[snerkler]

Hi, I think I no what the answer to this question is going to be but here goes.
I no that to see the ISO in the viewfinder of the A7iv when using auto ISO you have to half press the shutter button but is there a way like Nikon users to actually see it all the time, find it strange that it is missing from exposure information in the viewfinder. Thank you, Russ.

I've not found a way.

 

[snerkler]

Got a Samyang 35mm 2.8 coming today as just wanted something tiny and light to tide me by.

I know some of them are not always perfect. What is the best way to check for focus and de-centering issues etc?

I can't find the site I originally got the info, but this is the same test method

How to check how decentered your lens is - phillipreeve.net

How to check if your lens is decentered? You may have already heard of sample variation or decentered lenses. In this article we will show you how to easily test your lenses for proper centering. If you know how it works it will take you less than 5 minutes per lens! Where this test originates …...

phillipreeve.net

 

[snerkler]

First edit yesterdays studio shoot.


A1_08753-Edit by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

 

[LeeRatters]

Got a Samyang 35mm 2.8 coming today as just wanted something tiny and light to tide me by.

I know some of them are not always perfect. What is the best way to check for focus and de-centering issues etc?

I can't find the site I originally got the info, but this is the same test method

How to check how decentered your lens is - phillipreeve.net

How to check if your lens is decentered? You may have already heard of sample variation or decentered lenses. In this article we will show you how to easily test your lenses for proper centering. If you know how it works it will take you less than 5 minutes per lens! Where this test originates …...

phillipreeve.net

I think the basic way is to focus on an infinity object centre frame, and then take 4 shots with that subject in each corner to compare.

 

[LongLensPhotography]

I think the basic way is to focus on an infinity object centre frame, and then take 4 shots with that subject in each corner to compare.

Generally yes that would do it. That presumes you have no crazy field curvature which would send all of the periphery into smear regardless. I would just focus closer to one corner and then keep flipping the camera. Even better you get on top of the hill and shoot a distant view without any foreground and anything even remotely close; use tripod, timer, double check focus. It's much easier with 1 or 2 clear images than 4+ as mistakes do happen

Top right corner actually almost doesn't matter (sky) but the edge absolutely does. Top left will matter only in vertical but then this will be closer in so sometimes a decentered lens or one with massive field curvature works in your favour like that trashy old canon 17-40 I had ages ago. Bottom absolutely matters, and so do both left and right edges / mid section

 

[snerkler]

A few more from the studio shoot

1.

A1_08640-Edit by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

2.

A1_08676-Edit by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

3.

A1_08837 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

 

[ancient_mariner]

I can't find the site I originally got the info, but this is the same test method

How to check how decentered your lens is - phillipreeve.net

How to check if your lens is decentered? You may have already heard of sample variation or decentered lenses. In this article we will show you how to easily test your lenses for proper centering. If you know how it works it will take you less than 5 minutes per lens! Where this test originates …...

phillipreeve.net

The first site I know that gave a method was Fred Miranda.

 

[Redspider]

On my Sony A73 I used the little joystick to alter the focus position from center to up or down etc. I don't have a joystick on the Sony A7CR, can I still move the focus point, if so how?

 

[nandbytes]

On my Sony A73 I used the little joystick to alter the focus position from center to up or down etc. I don't have a joystick on the Sony A7CR, can I still move the focus point, if so how?

Touch screen or the back wheel buttons can also act like direction buttons.

 

[snerkler]

On my Sony A73 I used the little joystick to alter the focus position from center to up or down etc. I don't have a joystick on the Sony A7CR, can I still move the focus point, if so how?

I can’t believe they didn’t put a joystick on on the older models you had to press a button to activate the d-pad to move the AF point, I’d imagine it must the same.

 

[f/2.8]

Nipped out today for the pups first walk.

Decided to grab some photos.

Awful results

It’s been so long since I shot something that wasn’t a wedding.

 

[Redspider]

Touch screen or the back wheel buttons can also act like direction buttons.

Thanks but not on mine they don't, unless I have to set it differently to the A73s focus..

 

[Redspider]

I can’t believe they didn’t put a joystick on on the older models you had to press a button to activate the d-pad to move the AF point, I’d imagine it must the same.

Yes, I also would have liked a joystick. I have looked at on-line videos, and Googled about it, not to mention spent a ton of time on the menu, but so far no good.

 

[nandbytes]

Thanks but not on mine they don't, unless I have to set it differently to the A73s focus..

as mentioned you will need to set a button activate the D-pad to move the AF buttons.
I can look into it but it will be late tomorrow evening. I am busy till then.
If you haven't figured it out by then we can try to work it out.

 

[LeeRatters]

Yes, I also would have liked a joystick. I have looked at on-line videos, and Googled about it, not to mention spent a ton of time on the menu, but so far no good.

On the A7, I have the centre button to activate and then the D pad to move. The Riii has a joystick anyway. But I also have a press of the joystick to focus too.

 

[Redspider]

On the A7, I have the centre button to activate and then the D pad to move. The Riii has a joystick anyway. But I also have a press of the joystick to focus too.

I have found that, not sure how, but it only works if I look at the touch screen, I can't look through the viewfinder and move the focus point, only if I look at the touch screen. That is helpful, but I would like to move it whilst looking through the viewfinder, so I can point at the exact part I want to focus at. Is that possible?

 

[ancient_mariner]

I have found that, not sure how, but it only works if I look at the touch screen, I can't look through the viewfinder and move the focus point, only if I look at the touch screen. That is helpful, but I would like to move it whilst looking through the viewfinder, so I can point at the exact part I want to focus at. Is that possible?

Don't you also see the image on the rear screen, the same as the VF?

 

[mstphoto]

I have found that, not sure how, but it only works if I look at the touch screen, I can't look through the viewfinder and move the focus point, only if I look at the touch screen. That is helpful, but I would like to move it whilst looking through the viewfinder, so I can point at the exact part I want to focus at. Is that possible?

I can do it on the original a7c