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Which, the f1.2 or f1.4?
I know
The 1.4
Which, the f1.2 or f1.4?
I know
My attempt to remove the dogs thick lead, not my dog by the way.
Pam by Ben Cheneler, on Flickr
Cocker Spaniel by Ben Cheneler, on Flickr
They do look a bit underexposed which would suggest your monitor is too bright yeahHad a browse through some of these images today on my phone which i don't normally do and they seemed quite dark but ok to me on my Mac studio display which is set to photography p3 d65 so got me thinking the monitor may be to bright.
Thank youThey do look a bit underexposed which would suggest your monitor is too bright yeah
No worries, been there done thatThank you
I sometimes think I’d be better off with the 50mm f1.4 instead of the f1.2 as it’s very similar size and weight to the 35mm and that’s much nicer to use.
Yeah I get that, but now you have 24-70mm lenses and a 20-40mm lens 24-50mm seems an odd one, unless it's significantly smaller and lighter than the 24-70mm.I had a Soligor 24-45 with my Pentax P30 in the mid-80s. The extra wideness (for the time) was very useful.
Yeah I get that, but now you have 24-70mm lenses and a 20-40mm lens 24-50mm seems an odd one, unless it's significantly smaller and lighter than the 24-70mm.
They work in tandem ,on the 200-600 if you turn off os on the lens it disables the ibis , general opinion is high shutter speeds for moving objects is turn off osI read an interesting thread on DPreview today saying that IBIS/OSS can cause blurry images with high shutter speeds and therefore it’s best to turn them off in this situation.
I can’t say I’ve noticed it before, has anyone on here experienced this? I wonder if AF tracking can be improved by turning it off as it’s one less function for the camera to do?
Whilst talking about IBIS and OSS, if you have an OSS lens does this work in conjunction with IBIS to give an even better accumulative stabilisation, or does the lens OSS ‘disable’ IBIS so you get OSS only?i
Thanks, yeah I know turning AF off on the lens disables IBIS, but what I meant is if IBIS gives you 5 stops stabilisation and OSS 3 stops, does that give you 8 stops in total?They work in tandem ,on the 200-600 if you turn off os on the lens it disables the ibis , general opinion is high shutter speeds for moving objects is turn off os
It is a bit unconventional, so there has to be something a little special about it: A) better sharpness, zero distortion. I really doubt it as it is not GM; B) incredibly small C) kit lens cheap.I’m not sure about these lenses if true, 16-25mm and 24-50mm seem like very odd focal lengths to me.
CONFIRMED: New Sony announcement in mid February!!! – sonyalpharumors
www.sonyalpharumors.com
I’m not sure about these lenses if true, 16-25mm and 24-50mm seem like very odd focal lengths to me.
CONFIRMED: New Sony announcement in mid February!!! – sonyalpharumors
www.sonyalpharumors.com
A quality 24-50 fast zoom would be ideal one lens solution for a camera system for me - most of what I shoot falls within these focal lengths - it should be more compact and lighter weight than the equivalent 24-70 and since its a 2x zoom is capable of being made with superb optical properties.
Its an option availabel on the GFX (actually 25-51mm equivalent) with the GF32-64mm but that lens is F4 and just not quite fast enough, so I ended up with 3 primes (24,35,50mm equivalents).
I hope that it is true and its a succesful lens, might then encourage other manufacturers to follow suit.
Got a Samyang 35mm 2.8 coming today as just wanted something tiny and light to tide me by.
I know some of them are not always perfect. What is the best way to check for focus and de-centering issues etc?
I've not found a way.Hi, I think I no what the answer to this question is going to be but here goes.
I no that to see the ISO in the viewfinder of the A7iv when using auto ISO you have to half press the shutter button but is there a way like Nikon users to actually see it all the time, find it strange that it is missing from exposure information in the viewfinder. Thank you, Russ.
I can't find the site I originally got the info, but this is the same test methodGot a Samyang 35mm 2.8 coming today as just wanted something tiny and light to tide me by.
I know some of them are not always perfect. What is the best way to check for focus and de-centering issues etc?
Got a Samyang 35mm 2.8 coming today as just wanted something tiny and light to tide me by.
I know some of them are not always perfect. What is the best way to check for focus and de-centering issues etc?
I can't find the site I originally got the info, but this is the same test method
How to check how decentered your lens is - phillipreeve.net
How to check if your lens is decentered? You may have already heard of sample variation or decentered lenses. In this article we will show you how to easily test your lenses for proper centering. If you know how it works it will take you less than 5 minutes per lens! Where this test originates …...phillipreeve.net
Generally yes that would do it. That presumes you have no crazy field curvature which would send all of the periphery into smear regardless. I would just focus closer to one corner and then keep flipping the camera. Even better you get on top of the hill and shoot a distant view without any foreground and anything even remotely close; use tripod, timer, double check focus. It's much easier with 1 or 2 clear images than 4+ as mistakes do happenI think the basic way is to focus on an infinity object centre frame, and then take 4 shots with that subject in each corner to compare.
The first site I know that gave a method was Fred Miranda.I can't find the site I originally got the info, but this is the same test method
How to check how decentered your lens is - phillipreeve.net
How to check if your lens is decentered? You may have already heard of sample variation or decentered lenses. In this article we will show you how to easily test your lenses for proper centering. If you know how it works it will take you less than 5 minutes per lens! Where this test originates …...phillipreeve.net
Touch screen or the back wheel buttons can also act like direction buttons.On my Sony A73 I used the little joystick to alter the focus position from center to up or down etc. I don't have a joystick on the Sony A7CR, can I still move the focus point, if so how?
I can’t believe they didn’t put a joystick on on the older models you had to press a button to activate the d-pad to move the AF point, I’d imagine it must the same.On my Sony A73 I used the little joystick to alter the focus position from center to up or down etc. I don't have a joystick on the Sony A7CR, can I still move the focus point, if so how?
Thanks but not on mine they don't, unless I have to set it differently to the A73s focus..Touch screen or the back wheel buttons can also act like direction buttons.
Yes, I also would have liked a joystick. I have looked at on-line videos, and Googled about it, not to mention spent a ton of time on the menu, but so far no good.I can’t believe they didn’t put a joystick on on the older models you had to press a button to activate the d-pad to move the AF point, I’d imagine it must the same.
as mentioned you will need to set a button activate the D-pad to move the AF buttons.Thanks but not on mine they don't, unless I have to set it differently to the A73s focus..
Yes, I also would have liked a joystick. I have looked at on-line videos, and Googled about it, not to mention spent a ton of time on the menu, but so far no good.
I have found that, not sure how, but it only works if I look at the touch screen, I can't look through the viewfinder and move the focus point, only if I look at the touch screen. That is helpful, but I would like to move it whilst looking through the viewfinder, so I can point at the exact part I want to focus at. Is that possible?On the A7, I have the centre button to activate and then the D pad to move. The Riii has a joystick anyway. But I also have a press of the joystick to focus too.
I have found that, not sure how, but it only works if I look at the touch screen, I can't look through the viewfinder and move the focus point, only if I look at the touch screen. That is helpful, but I would like to move it whilst looking through the viewfinder, so I can point at the exact part I want to focus at. Is that possible?
I can do it on the original a7cI have found that, not sure how, but it only works if I look at the touch screen, I can't look through the viewfinder and move the focus point, only if I look at the touch screen. That is helpful, but I would like to move it whilst looking through the viewfinder, so I can point at the exact part I want to focus at. Is that possible?