The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

IMHO the 60mm shouldn't be advertised as a macro lens, nothing to do with the lens not being 1:1 but because of its sluggish macro autofocus even in good light. Manual focus at macro level is unusable.

For portraits it is just amazing and sharp.
 
architectfadi said:
IMHO the 60mm shouldn't be advertised as a macro lens, nothing to do with the lens not being 1:1 but because of its sluggish macro autofocus even in good light. Manual focus at macro level is unusable.

For portraits it is just amazing and sharp.
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I second that.

The Zeiss Touit 50mm f/2.8 is a true macro lens giving 1:1 ratio. It's very fast, light and is also superb as a portrait lens and in my opinion outclasses the 60mm in every respect.

I would like to do a head-to-head with the faster 56mm, that would be very interesting.
 
The 60 is faster on the X-T than it is on the X-Pro1 but not as fast as the 105 is on a D700, hence me chopping it in against the 10-24. I would agree with Alastair when he says that the 55-200 is a better choice.
 
Spooky said:
Have to say I am loving my XT1 and gradually getting to grips with where the buttons fall. Also starting to customise a few settings, assigning specific functions to the more accessible buttons. I still marvel at its weight and the quality of images straight out of camera. The studio pics I took at the weekend are fabulous and easily stand up against those from the D700.

Got a day of playing tomorrow so will give it a good run out over a range of styles / methods of shooting.

Quick thought; I should really put filters on the front of the glass but am toying between UV (I had those on the front of all my Nikon lenses) and polarizer filters - anyone want to share their approach?

Cheers

Spooks
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Any chance of you sharing an image, I have a D700 but would like a smaller camera to pop in the bag instead of the weight, I would like it for portraits too, which lens are you using it with?
 
Working on a few from the promo shoot tonight so will pop up a link.
 
For portraits, I have used both the 60mm prime and the 18-50mm. Both are very good, crisp lenses.
 
Guys are your images looking under exposed when first importing in for PP? I check exposure levels in the camera and it's always in the centre of the scale before shooting. Exposure preview looks good, nice and balanced and reviewing the image on the LCD looks spot on. Opening up in Aperture and the RAW looks dim, almost every image needs the exposure tweaking. I almost always shoot in full manual mode.

I've also had very mixed results shooting in full Auto, the metering seems...well, crap. Either over or under exposed. It's probably me but don't see how when the camera is in Auto (all dials switched to A).

Feel like I'm going nuts.
 
rodd1000 said:
Guys are your images looking under exposed when first importing in for PP? I check exposure levels in the camera and it's always in the centre of the scale before shooting. Exposure preview looks good, nice and balanced and reviewing the image on the LCD looks spot on. Opening up in Aperture and the RAW looks dim, almost every image needs the exposure tweaking. I almost always shoot in full manual mode.

I've also had very mixed results shooting in full Auto, the metering seems...well, crap. Either over or under exposed. It's probably me but don't see how when the camera is in Auto (all dials switched to A).

Feel like I'm going nuts.
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Probably a silly suggestion but I hit this problem the other week on my XPro1; I had accidentally dialled in a stupidly high ISO.
 
DigitalRelish said:
It's difficult to quantify without the tools to measure it, but the 35mm feels slightly faster on the X-T1, but that night just be because of the phase detection meaning less hunting.

The overriding limitation is probably the AF mechanism within the lens itself.
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Thanks Will, what you say makes sense & help's demonstrate (to me at least) that my desire for a XT1 can't really be justified!!

Now if I chopped in the XP1, 18, 35 & 60 for the XT1, 14, 23 & 56 that would make sense, well except to the wallet!!
 
Spooky said:
Probably a silly suggestion but I hit this problem the other week on my XPro1; I had accidentally dialled in a stupidly high ISO.
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How would a high ISO cause images to look under exposed? I'm guessing your right though, I've probably accidentally changed a setting in the menus somewhere.

Just checked and I have DR on auto? Could that be it?
 
It's a known problem with X-T1 files at high ISO and DR 200% or 400%. Adobe have released ACR 8.5 RC as a fix, expect a proper update shortly (Fujirumur is very occasionally useful for something - link).
 
rodd1000 said:
Guys are your images looking under exposed when first importing in for PP? I check exposure levels in the camera and it's always in the centre of the scale before shooting. Exposure preview looks good, nice and balanced and reviewing the image on the LCD looks spot on. Opening up in Aperture and the RAW looks dim, almost every image needs the exposure tweaking. I almost always shoot in full manual mode.

I've also had very mixed results shooting in full Auto, the metering seems...well, crap. Either over or under exposed. It's probably me but don't see how when the camera is in Auto (all dials switched to A).

Feel like I'm going nuts.
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Shoot a few frames RAW + JPEG. I've noticed that the RAWS look extremely flat against the JPEG. Just proves that all RAW needs processing.
It's why I only shoot RAW rarely. Usually when I have a certain look in mind (usually Black and White conversion)
I doubt it's the DR on auto, mine always is.
 
trevorbray said:
Shoot a few frames RAW + JPEG. I've noticed that the RAWS look extremely flat against the JPEG. Just proves that all RAW needs processing.
It's why I only shoot RAW rarely. Usually when I have a certain look in mind (usually Black and White conversion)
I doubt it's the DR on auto, mine always is.
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Thanks Trevor I hadn't thought of that, I'll give it a try. I don't mind having to tweak in PP but it's nice when it looks good straight out the camera.

Does anyone find fuji RAW files take a painfully long time to load? Nikon RAWs weren't much slower than JPEG but Fuji's can take 10-15 seconds which is annoying. Wonder if it's an Aperture thing?

Thinking of switching to LR as aperture sometimes displays the wrong thumbnail for the images too.
 
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rodd1000 said:
Thanks Trevor I hadn't thought of that, I'll give it a try. I don't mind having to tweak in PP but it's nice when it looks good straight out the camera.

Does anyone find fuji RAW files take a painfully long time to load? Nikon RAWs weren't much slower than JPEG but Fuji's can take 10-15 seconds which is annoying. Wonder if it's an Aperture thing?

Thinking of switching to LR as aperture sometimes displays the wrong thumbnail for the images too.
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I'm an Aperture user. Not noticed any real problems. Tried Lightroom and am convinced it doesn't convert RAW as well as Aperture. I only use Aperture to store and use as RAW converter. All my PP is in Photoshop.
 
trevorbray said:
I'm an Aperture user. Not noticed any real problems. Tried Lightroom and am convinced it doesn't convert RAW as well as Aperture. I only use Aperture to store and use as RAW converter. All my PP is in Photoshop.
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Which RAW converter do you use Trevor?

Is the one in the Box, silkypix any good?
 
rodd1000 said:
Which RAW converter do you use Trevor?

Is the one in the Box, silkypix any good?
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No. I use Aperture. Simply send the RAW to Photoshop as a PSD. Set it up in Aperture preferences for external editor.
 
Yeah I have PS as an external editor but it's an older version which is why I don't use it to often, might treat myself to an upgrade.
 
rodd1000 said:
Yeah I have PS as an external editor but it's an older version which is why I don't use it to often, might treat myself to an upgrade.
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I was using CS3 until quite recently.
Subscribed to Photoshop CC, not sure it was really worth it. I seem to use exactly the same methods and get the same result..
 
rodd1000 said:
Yeah I have PS as an external editor but it's an older version which is why I don't use it to often, might treat myself to an upgrade.
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I've found the best Photoshop investment was subscribing to the Guy Gowan website. I've learned an awful lot.
 
rodd1000 said:
Guys are your images looking under exposed when first importing in for PP? I check exposure levels in the camera and it's always in the centre of the scale before shooting. Exposure preview looks good, nice and balanced and reviewing the image on the LCD looks spot on. Opening up in Aperture and the RAW looks dim, almost every image needs the exposure tweaking. I almost always shoot in full manual mode.

I've also had very mixed results shooting in full Auto, the metering seems...well, crap. Either over or under exposed. It's probably me but don't see how when the camera is in Auto (all dials switched to A).

Feel like I'm going nuts.
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You haven't turned your exposure compensation dial by mistake, have you?
 
Have to admit that that occurred to me too. Harder to do on the X-T1 than on the X-Pro1 but still possible.
 
Buy the 10-24 or wait for the 16-55? Actually, any rumours as to when we might see the 16-55?
 
simonblue said:
Nothing yet, it seem to have been a big delay & with the 18-135mm :(
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I have a massive itch that I need to scratch in the next few days but I'm at a total loss what to do. I've got the 23mm 1.4 and was going to get either the 14mm, 10-24mm or 56mm. But I'm not sure what to do with these new lenses coming out.... :eek:
 
I know the feeling the 16-55mm is a must buy for me,i am suppose to be getting £250 voucher of the 18-135mm,but the price could be high on that one.
Choices
 
UaeExile said:
I have a massive itch that I need to scratch in the next few days but I'm at a total loss what to do. I've got the 23mm 1.4 and was going to get either the 14mm, 10-24mm or 56mm. But I'm not sure what to do with these new lenses coming out.... :eek:
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What do you like to photograph? That should help you to choose . The 10-24mm is very useful to get some interesting close foreground for landscapes and is very genuinely very useful. The. 56mm is superb for portraits. Really depends on what you like to photograph. Lots of reviews out there on these but not much information on the new lenses yet.
 
Blank_Canvas said:
What do you like to photograph? That should help you to choose . The 10-24mm is very useful to get some interesting close foreground for landscapes and is very genuinely very useful. The. 56mm is superb for portraits. Really depends on what you like to photograph. Lots of reviews out there on these but not much information on the new lenses yet.
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I want to shoot more portraits, but at the minute mostly I just shoot on my travels. So it's a total mix.

I'd get the 10-24 but the thought of the 16-55 puts me off as that's a much more useful focal range for me and I don't need ultra wide.
 
I'm sure this has been covered so apologies, but how are we finding manual focussing with legacy lenses? How does the split screen behave with non native lenses attached, is the peaking any good? Also how are we finding the lock button on the iso/shutter dials?
 
Mr. C. I've never tried any legacy lenses on mine - for me, one of the joys of the XF lenses is their smallness and quality so I haven't played with other options. TBH, I find the X-T's AF so good that I haven't played with MF much either! As for the lock buttons, they're easy to find - they're in the middle of the dial!!! ;) In use, I find them to work very well. Maybe a little fiddly to change very quickly but as yet, I haven't needed to change ISO quickly so haven't found that a problem. The shutter speed dial is only locked when set to A so the lock button only gets used to shift from that setting - for me, no problem. I find the locks easier to use than the lock buttons on the dials of my D700.
 
Nod said:
Mr. C. I've never tried any legacy lenses on mine - for me, one of the joys of the XF lenses is their smallness and quality so I haven't played with other options. TBH, I find the X-T's AF so good that I haven't played with MF much either! As for the lock buttons, they're easy to find - they're in the middle of the dial!!! ;) In use, I find them to work very well. Maybe a little fiddly to change very quickly but as yet, I haven't needed to change ISO quickly so haven't found that a problem. The shutter speed dial is only locked when set to A so the lock button only gets used to shift from that setting - for me, no problem. I find the locks easier to use than the lock buttons on the dials of my D700.
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Wish the ISO button didn't lock on every turn mind.
 
Why can't they just do a 'press to lock button'. That way users decide which setting they prefer to use and everyone is happy :D
 
architectfadi said:
Why can't they just do a 'press to lock button'. That way users decide which setting they prefer to use and everyone is happy :D
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The reason why there is an ISO lock stems back from film days. If you were shooting on 400 ISO and you knocked it up to 800 by accident the film was pretty much screwed. You could compensate to a a degree in processing (push pulling) but it increased the grain considerably and you may have lost shots completely at the beginning of the film.

Having used an SLR for years I find if second nature and not at all difficult so I'm a fan of the lock. I understand it's not to everyone's taste.
 
Just back from my first wedding using the XT1 and XPro1 exclusively. Got to say, loved the light load (compared to the D700s) but am still shattered. Will post a full report / summary once I have recovered, bathed, eaten and slept!
 
Spooky said:
Just back from my first wedding using the XT1 and XPro1 exclusively. Got to say, loved the light load (compared to the D700s) but am still shattered. Will post a full report / summary once I have recovered, bathed, eaten and slept!
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Looking forward to your report (y)
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
I'm sure this has been covered so apologies, but how are we finding manual focussing with legacy lenses? How does the split screen behave with non native lenses attached, is the peaking any good? Also how are we finding the lock button on the iso/shutter dials?
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I have never used a Nikon Lens with an adaptor on the Fuji X System preferring to keep the two system separate. The quality of the XF lenses are really very good when combined with the sensor. I know done people have tried them with good results but can't really comment further.
 
Still torn between keeping my A7R or selling and buying an XT1. Hate the Sony Interface so much, it can't do blue skies and it's sloooooooow, but it's full frame and oh so sharp even with nasty lenses! Wish I could afford more cameras!
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Still torn between keeping my A7R or selling and buying an XT1. Hate the Sony Interface so much, it can't do blue skies and it's sloooooooow, but it's full frame and oh so sharp even with nasty lenses! Wish I could afford more cameras!
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Ooh, now that's a tough one..good luck.
 
Spooky said:
Just back from my first wedding using the XT1 and XPro1 exclusively. Got to say, loved the light load (compared to the D700s) but am still shattered. Will post a full report / summary once I have recovered, bathed, eaten and slept!
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Looking forward to it too
 
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