The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Mr Perceptive said:
My 410 when I had it would go vertical, remember you can angle the tripod legs to help as well.
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Maybe I'll have a little play around with it tonight. But I really love the ease of an L-Bracket. Will take some persuation to move away from them :)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Since the 'normal' bracketing works by adjusting shutter speed, this will not work, given that the SS will go up to 15mins in Timer mode, I don't see the requirement for bulb bracketing. I set offs 15min exposure in Liverpool Cathedral not realising that it was still a 9 bracket sequence, I abandoned after one shot as I didn't have a spare 2 hours!!!

If you were on ISObracketing then in bulb mode might work
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Sorry. Missed this reply.
I tried this yesterday and got some strange results. Unfortunately I've deleted the images now and can't remember what was happening but I know I did get a strange image on the viewfinder.
I'm out tomorrow so will try again if I get set up before it gets dark.
 
Hi Everyone - still trying to get up to speed with the camera and various settings. My question - Do you have any recommendations for the size of the focus point when taking shots of static subjects e.g. candid portraits etc?

I think my technique is wonky as I'm finding I am getting focus on e.g. the nose rather than the eye. Totally accept that there are things I need to look at technique wise but wonder if the camera can help me! Would reducing the size of the focus point help - I have it on the middle of the 5(?) settings.

If you have other recommendations e.g. MF check on point of focus or other aids the camera has I'd welcome them. I'll continue to focus on technique, subject distance, aperture etc but please feel free to give me any pointers there too. Always looking to learn!

Thanks in advance.

Dave
 
mickledore said:
MF. Use focus peaking in red. You get little bread crumbs round what is in focus.
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From the off or do you use AF first and then use the MF assist? I have tried the latter but haven't used solely MF. My peaking was in blue but have just switched to red and it does seem a bit easier to see what's in the plane of focus. Thanks.
 
Sniffer said:
From the off or do you use AF first and then use the MF assist? I have tried the latter but haven't used solely MF. My peaking was in blue but have just switched to red and it does seem a bit easier to see what's in the plane of focus. Thanks.
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I have my peaking white usually... A really good setup though is to shoot in mono with red peaking, really stands out, then just process the colour raw as usual...
 
Sniffer said:
From the off or do you use AF first and then use the MF assist? I have tried the latter but haven't used solely MF. My peaking was in blue but have just switched to red and it does seem a bit easier to see what's in the plane of focus. Thanks.
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No. Never thought of using both. Will use one or the other. Sometimes AF won't pick up so I switch to MF but not as a check on AF. That's the sort of thing a pixel peepers would do:eek:
 
Sniffer said:
From the off or do you use AF first and then use the MF assist? I have tried the latter but haven't used solely MF. My peaking was in blue but have just switched to red and it does seem a bit easier to see what's in the plane of focus. Thanks.
Click to expand...

mickledore said:
No. Never thought of using both. Will use one or the other. Sometimes AF won't pick up so I switch to MF but not as a check on AF. That's the sort of thing a pixel peepers would do:eek:
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If you set the camera to MF, then pressing AF-L will cause it to auto focus, then you can tweak in manual if required. Note this only works with Fuji lenses, and will not work if you have the lens in manual (eg pull the ring back on the XF23mmF1.4)

Its actually very straightforward and enables you to get the lens basically set up before final adjustment.
 
Whilst we are on obscure topics...does anyone know how to change the hyperfocal distance colour indicator. I'd like something brighter, especially for nightime use.
 
EVF is pretty bright but against a dark background the bar can be hard to see.
Still better than pacing it out.
 
mickledore said:
Whilst we are on obscure topics...does anyone know how to change the hyperfocal distance colour indicator. I'd like something brighter, especially for nightime use.
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That can't be done Sir, well not on its own anyway only with the rest of the display.(y)

George.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
I have my peaking white usually... A really good setup though is to shoot in mono with red peaking, really stands out, then just process the colour raw as usual...
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mickledore said:
No. Never thought of using both. Will use one or the other. Sometimes AF won't pick up so I switch to MF but not as a check on AF. That's the sort of thing a pixel peepers would do:eek:
Click to expand...

Mr Perceptive said:
If you set the camera to MF, then pressing AF-L will cause it to auto focus, then you can tweak in manual if required. Note this only works with Fuji lenses, and will not work if you have the lens in manual (eg pull the ring back on the XF23mmF1.4)

Its actually very straightforward and enables you to get the lens basically set up before final adjustment.
Click to expand...
Thanks all - As it happens it's an XF23 f1.4 that I'm using. Will try these things out but also have a sneaky suspicion that I'm not good enough to use this focal length at wide apertures and get the results I'm intending.
 
Guys when i've gone to import my images from my sd card onto my laptop they're in three folders 102_fuji, 103_fuji and 104_fuji. Is there any way to stop this happening? I am not 100% sure why they're in folders when it's not something i set up but i'd rather they all just showed together to make it easier to select the ones i want to import. Can this be done easily enough?
 
scottduffy said:
Guys when i've gone to import my images from my sd card onto my laptop they're in three folders 102_fuji, 103_fuji and 104_fuji. Is there any way to stop this happening? I am not 100% sure why they're in folders when it's not something i set up but i'd rather they all just showed together to make it easier to select the ones i want to import. Can this be done easily enough?
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I look forward to the answer, as when I fill my card up I get 102 & 103.
 
Sniffer said:
Nice picture Dave - how did you achieve the studio look? I've seen it done with flash but not natural light (unless in a studio!) :)
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It is very easy if you have Lightroom. I saw some shots that a member here put in the animal thread and asked him. Get your photo in LR crop to how you want it, add a dark vignette then brush in negative exposure.
 
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scottduffy said:
Guys when i've gone to import my images from my sd card onto my laptop they're in three folders 102_fuji, 103_fuji and 104_fuji. Is there any way to stop this happening? I am not 100% sure why they're in folders when it's not something i set up but i'd rather they all just showed together to make it easier to select the ones i want to import. Can this be done easily enough?
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How many photos are in each folder? IIRC it starts a new folder after 1000...

Actually, the ability to create new folders in camera is the one thing I miss from my canon - Splitting weddings into pre/ceremony/post/reception... Or holidays into individual days etc...
 
scottduffy said:
Guys when i've gone to import my images from my sd card onto my laptop they're in three folders 102_fuji, 103_fuji and 104_fuji. Is there any way to stop this happening? I am not 100% sure why they're in folders when it's not something i set up but i'd rather they all just showed together to make it easier to select the ones i want to import. Can this be done easily enough?
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Dave70D said:
I look forward to the answer, as when I fill my card up I get 102 & 103.
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THIS
VVVV

jimmyjamjojo said:
How many photos are in each folder? IIRC it starts a new folder after 1000...

Actually, the ability to create new folders in camera is the one thing I miss from my canon - Splitting weddings into pre/ceremony/post/reception... Or holidays into individual days etc...
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A tiny PITA if a shoot goes over but an extra 10 seconds to copy/paste the 2nd folder is a small price to pay.
 
Nod said:
THIS
VVVV



A tiny PITA if a shoot goes over but an extra 10 seconds to copy/paste the 2nd folder is a small price to pay.
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One of them was empty and the other two contained 1052 between them. I am just used to opening my cf card and having all my images there. I will get used to it. Had my confused for a bit though as I thought it had written all my raw files to one and the jpegs to the other. I know you can do this but since I’m about to stop shooting jpeg I think I’ll give it a miss.
 
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