The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

As you can see, I actually got the camera out this weekend. I noticed a small patch of wild flowers that had sprouted up in one corner of my lawn, probably less than 30cm x 30cm, but the colours looked appealing. I'm amazed at what you can do with a bit of thinking and a set of tubes. These were shot using the 35 f1.4 at f8, and a 16mm extension tube.

DSCF9643 by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

DSCF9639 by Steve Jelly, on Flickr
 
cambsno said:
Weight was one aspect. The D750 is 840g and the 85mm was around 350g so about 1.2kg. The XT3 is 550g, the 16-55 is 650g so (so about the same as a DSLR and prime setup) and certainly lighter than D750 and 24-70 which I often didn't use.

Having f2 primes is not that different to my previous prime setup (2.8 20mm, 1.4 50mm and 1.8 85mm) and rarely shot wide open, 2.8 or 2 was the most. Do I NEED the 1.2... probably not! Think I am answering my own question!
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There ya go, sorted then :thumbs:
 
Stumbled upon this place, which is all of half an hours drive from me. It`s amazing what`s under ya nose sometimes. Lovely gardens, and unfortunately ran out of time to venture into the house, but will be going back for sure.

Hall Place and Gardens by Paulie-W, on Flickr
 
ianmarsh said:
Thanks chaps. I like the last one too. That is a ten shot pano (I think) plus a lot of editing. I'm thinking of adding back a slight reflection but I'm not sure. I have a similar shot of Redentore, also about to have a reflection added:

Giudecca by ian marsh, on Flickr
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Personally speaking I would leave it as is
 
Has anyone had the error message to restart the camera (X-T3)? I was trying to take pictures on Sunday at Silverstone with a 55-200mm lens and kept getting this message. Camera was also very unresponsive on focussing and I missed loads of shots. It wouldn't run in CH CL mode without blacking out the screen after a couple of shots. I have a Sandisk Extreme 32 Pro SDHC in both slots and both were formatted in camera. The camera was purchased in January and the lens in February.
 
madeinengland said:
Has anyone had the error message to restart the camera (X-T3)? I was trying to take pictures on Sunday at Silverstone with a 55-200mm lens and kept getting this message. Camera was also very unresponsive on focussing and I missed loads of shots. It wouldn't run in CH CL mode without blacking out the screen after a couple of shots. I have a Sandisk Extreme 32 Pro SDHC in both slots and both were formatted in camera. The camera was purchased in January and the lens in February.
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Are the cards UHS-ii ?
 
rick448 said:
A few from our trip to North Yorkshire yesterday, we had a lovely meal at the Black Swan in Oldstead and then had a ride back past Byland Abbey.

DSCF2658 by rick phillips, on Flickr

DSCF2686 by rick phillips, on Flickr

DSCF2674 by rick phillips, on Flickr

DSCF2706 by rick phillips, on Flickr

DSCF2705 by rick phillips, on Flickr
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Colours on these seem a bit "bleached" to me... Is that the processing, or are these jpg's with one of the film simulations?

Great images though, especially the last two.
 
ianmarsh said:
OK, one more from Venice then I will stop. These are some poles where fishing nets are laid out to dry but there were just gulls when I went.

NoNets by ian marsh, on Flickr
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“Excellent” minimalist Fujigraph, nothing more to be said.

George.
 
I wanted to test the focus bracket option on my new X T30. So I set up a few objects in my kitchen to cover a depth of eight inches not including the background.

It is hard to find information on what the Fuji terms “Frames Step and Interval” actually mean. Frames is simply the chosen number of shots, Interval is the time between shots in seconds, with 0, being as fast as it can manage with the chosen shutter speed and file format.
"Step" is more problematic as it relates to the “relative” focus step, and is not a fixed value. However, a value of 1 is equal to 20% of the Depth of field at the starting focus distance, with 5 equal to 100% which is why I decided to do a trial.

My settings for the above scene were... Frames 50; step 1; interval 0. As I had no idea how many frames would be needed to cover 8 inches depth of field at step”1”
The distance to the first object was 26" depth 8" camera settings !/10 sec at F5.6, ISO 200 and 18-55 lens at 55mm

It turned out that my first thought of 40 shots were not enough but 50 was.

I could most likely have set the step value to 2 as there was very little change between individual steps at 1. But the cost of more shots is only in my time. And the better the overlap the smoother the result.

I chose to shoot raw as this is my normal way of working, and although I had used a tripod, I did align the images in photoshop before focus blending them. no additional sharpening was applied.

In the results are as below, and I have included 1st 20th and 50th shot as an indicator of the focus depth at those steps. Though viewed at 100% changes are of course more obvious.

My next test will be the same, but including a wide depth of field landscape with a prominent foreground and distant detail.

focus-blendweb.jpg
 
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Terrywoodenpic said:
I wanted to test the focus bracket option on my new X T30. So I set up a few objects in my kitchen to cover a depth of eight inches not including the background.

It is hard to find information on what the Fuji terms “Frames Step and Interval” actually mean. Frames is simply the chosen number of shots, Interval is the time between shots in seconds, with 0, being as fast as it can manage with the chosen shutter speed and file format.
"Step" is more problematic as it relates to the “relative” focus step, and is not a fixed value. However, a value of 1 is equal to 20% of the Depth of field at the starting focus distance, with 5 equal to 100% which is why I decided to do a trial.

My settings for the above scene were... Frames 50; step 1; interval 0. As I had no idea how many frames would be needed to cover 8 inches depth of field at step”1”
The distance to the first object was 26" depth 8" camera settings !/10 sec at F5.6, ISO 200 and 18-55 lens at 55mm

It turned out that my first thought of 40 shots were not enough but 50 was.

I could most likely have set the step value to 2 as there was very little change between individual steps at 1. But the cost of more shots is only in my time. And the better the overlap the smoother the result.

I chose to shoot raw as this is my normal way of working, and although I had used a tripod, I did align the images in photoshop before focus blending them. no additional sharpening was applied.

In the results are as below, and I have included 1st 20th and 50th shot as an indicator of the focus depth at those steps. Though viewed at 100% changes are of course more obvious.

My next test will be the same, but including a wide depth of field landscape with a prominent foreground and distant detail.

View attachment 250238
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Very interesting. A couple of questions...
1. Which staring point did you use for focus? The nearest part of the nearest glass?
2. Which focus mode, S, C or M
3. single point or sone focus mode?
 
saltireblue said:
Very interesting. A couple of questions...
1. Which staring point did you use for focus? The nearest part of the nearest glass?
2. Which focus mode, S, C or M
3. single point or sone focus mode?
Click to expand...
ch


As focus bracketing is a camera function you only need to set the start point, then the camera takes over. The S of Schwartz was the closest identified point, so I set a single point over that, set at S . The camera then adjusts the focus for each step, having no regard to the subject.
Set at 0 As I did it rapid fires all the shots, when you first fire the shutter.

I tried one in the garden, hand held, set at six shots with a step of 5 and rate of six. It rapid fired only Five shots. As it always stops at infinity, That is no matter however many shots you have set it up to take.
Though hand held, it worked well.
 
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Jelster said:
Colours on these seem a bit "bleached" to me... Is that the processing, or are these jpg's with one of the film simulations?

Great images though, especially the last two.
Click to expand...
No film simulation being used, I have tried changing my PP a little, I actually prefer this style for now, but am always tweaking things a little.
 
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