The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Ordered the X-T5 an 16-50mm for next week on the Fuji free trial, looking forward to trying it out. One disappointment though is that the 16-50mm doesn't appear to have a proper aperture ring as it's a multifunction ring and so doesn't have markings and there's no hard stop. I'm not sure why Fuji chose to do this, one of the nice things about Fuji is that you can have that 'oldschool' manual control but it means having to check the EVF/LCD everytime to check the aperture which I don't like.

1st world problem for sure, but it's an unecessary niggle imo, is there a particular reason they chose to do this?
 
snerkler said:
Ordered the X-T5 an 16-50mm for next week on the Fuji free trial, looking forward to trying it out. One disappointment though is that the 16-50mm doesn't appear to have a proper aperture ring as it's a multifunction ring and so doesn't have markings and there's no hard stop. I'm not sure why Fuji chose to do this, one of the nice things about Fuji is that you can have that 'oldschool' manual control but it means having to check the EVF/LCD everytime to check the aperture which I don't like.

1st world problem for sure, but it's an unecessary niggle imo, is there a particular reason they chose to do this?
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That lens isn't constant aperture is it? It's 2.8-4.8, so for anything below F/4.8 the aperture is going to change as you zoom in: unless the aperture ring moved as you zoom I don't think it would be possible.

Having said that, they do the same thing with the 10-24 which is constant F/4, not sure why.
 
skullfunkerry said:
That lens isn't constant aperture is it? It's 2.8-4.8, so for anything below F/4.8 the aperture is going to change as you zoom in: unless the aperture ring moved as you zoom I don't think it would be possible.

Having said that, they do the same thing with the 10-24 which is constant F/4, not sure why.
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The 10-24 has a proper arerture ring with hard stops and numbers.
 
skullfunkerry said:
That lens isn't constant aperture is it? It's 2.8-4.8, so for anything below F/4.8 the aperture is going to change as you zoom in: unless the aperture ring moved as you zoom I don't think it would be possible.

Having said that, they do the same thing with the 10-24 which is constant F/4, not sure why.
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Of course, the aperture changes as you zoom, what a muppet I am sometimes :lol: In my defence it's a long time since I've used a zoom without constant aperture ;)

The 10-24mm does have a proper aperture ring with markings and a hard stop.
 
morning, it’s just a thought that’s come to mind and I’ve yet to use a Fuji body or lens, the aperture rings are they clicked like my 40mm voigtlander on Sony mount?
 
Seriously thinking about swapping the XT5 for another X100VI.
I’ve only been using the 27mm 1.7.
The 16-50 has been used for a total of 5 pics.

Anyone know whether WEX ‘pre-orders’ are coming through regularly?

Alternatively, could buy a 23mm but the XT5 body is still a bit too thick even with the pancake.
 
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Impressed with MPB, had a decent offer got X-T3 plus grip (£458), but on receipt they upgraded the offer to £501 which was more than I had it up for on this site!!! And money in my account a few hours later.

So owned for 20 months, added 30K clicks to the shutter count (total now 45K), sold it for £14 less than I paid for it, and still have a couple of spare batteries - happy days :)

Good result (and goes partially towards offsetting the £800 hit I took on my X-T2 when Fuji’s were less popular…..,
 
bl0at3r said:
Seriously thinking about swapping the XT5 for another X100VI.
I’ve only been using the 27mm 1.7.
The 16-50 has been used for a total of 5 pics.

Anyone know whether WEX ‘pre-orders’ are coming through regularly?

Alternatively, could buy a 23mm but the XT5 body is still a bit too thick even with the pancake.
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I got mine from Wex but I went on every day and then one lunchtime out of the blue they showed stock, later on in the day it was gone again.
 
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Topsy said:
The 10-24 has a proper arerture ring with hard stops and numbers.
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snerkler said:
Of course, the aperture changes as you zoom, what a muppet I am sometimes :lol: In my defence it's a long time since I've used a zoom without constant aperture ;)

The 10-24mm does have a proper aperture ring with markings and a hard stop.
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Mine doesn't. It's the mk1 though, have you guys got the mk2 WR version?
 
skullfunkerry said:
Mine doesn't. It's the mk1 though, have you guys got the mk2 WR version?
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I don't have it as I don't havea Fuji ILC, but it was the WR version I was referring to (y)
 
zx9 said:
I particularly liked the second one though I don't think I would want to rent / own a beach hut in such a high density beach hut 'city' but you made a great photo of it.
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I agree. Sort of defeats the object of them IMHO.
The ones to the left are 2 to 3 deep in places aswell.

Ps there are colour versions on my Flickr as well
 
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zx9 said:
I like your B&W conversions over the original colour ones, it is the very dark brown or black ones that detract from the colour for me.
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They are not conversions, just straight from the camera B&W.

My camera is set for 3 exposure bracketing most of the time.
B&W + yellow, standard and Velvia. Usually get one I like from it.
I really like B&W from this camera and my wife normally dislikes them, but in this case she agreed B&W was nicer
 
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leaky5 said:
They are not conversions, just straight from the camera B&W.

My camera is set for 3 exposure bracketing most of the time.
B&W + yellow, standard and Velvia. Usually get one I like from it.
I really like B&W from this camera and my wife normally dislikes them, but in this case she agreed B&W was nicer
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I usually run my Leica M240 as B&W jpg plus RAW which obviously can be colour or converted to B&W, I have only been using the X-T4 for a month or so and have not tried the film simulations. I have been mostly concentrating on getting the AF to work the way I am happy with, it is so different to the Canon way that I have had twenty odd years to get to grip with.
I am enjoying the Dynamic range 200 setting which generally makes the raw files easier to work with than Canon 2CR or 3CR files but have lots more to set up / play with.
 
Reliance on film simulations can be difficult, because digital doesn't have the highlight roll-off of film, it means that digital film simulations are much more critical of lighting changes, a shot ahead of you can look great, one behind you can look pants. They are great to use as a guide tough, but IMHO they cannot be relied on,

With the very early cameras, first generation X-Pro1 (gen 1 X-Trans) and the original X100 (Bayer) the sensors were more 'film like' and my experienece with these cameras is that you can get good (and more consistent) results, sticking to a film silumation, but as Fuji's have become more 'digital' this has become harder to do.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Reliance on film simulations can be difficult, because digital doesn't have the highlight roll-off of film, it means that digital film simulations are much more critical of lighting changes, a shot ahead of you can look great, one behind you can look pants. They are great to use as a guide tough, but IMHO they cannot be relied on,

With the very early cameras, first generation X-Pro1 (gen 1 X-Trans) and the original X100 (Bayer) the sensors were more 'film like' and my experienece with these cameras is that you can get good (and more consistent) results, sticking to a film silumation, but as Fuji's have become more 'digital' this has become harder to do.
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You can get a more film like highlight roll off and colour gradation using curves and masks in LR but it's never going to be exact. Film doens't look the same from one scene to another though, something I recently discovered :facepalm: (I might even have mentioned it on here before).
 
snerkler said:
You can get a more film like highlight roll off and colour gradation using curves and masks in LR but it's never going to be exact. Film doens't look the same from one scene to another though, something I recently discovered :facepalm: (I might even have mentioned it on here before).
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I don’t disagree but film is often capable in varying highlight situations keeping the shadows the same whereas to stop digital clipping, you have to under-expose thus losing shadow detail (JPG shot)

There is no right or wrong answer they are just different, and yes changing light affects film shots too but in a different way!!!
 
Mr Perceptive said:
I don’t disagree but film is often capable in varying highlight situations keeping the shadows the same whereas to stop digital clipping, you have to under-expose thus losing shadow detail (JPG shot)

There is no right or wrong answer they are just different, and yes changing light affects film shots too but in a different way!!!
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It was more the colours, this is what I mean, same film but very different colours

Screenshot 2026-06-19 at 17.29.14.jpg
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Almost certainly down to metering and exposure - last shot is way underexposed - hence the colour shift and muddy shadows
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The light meter on my OM1 is a bit unreliable, the needle is constantly jumping around :lol:
 
snerkler said:
The light meter on my OM1 is a bit unreliable, the needle is constantly jumping around :lol:
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Remember it’s try to set an 18% grey level to determine the exposure, so a relatively bright dog plus (I assume) white or near white walls and it will automatically under-expose (just like a digital camera would), so you either need to take spot readings from darkest and lightest points from the scene and determine using grey matter your exposure, or apply exposure compensation or maybe just spot meter the subject when the shots are in this kind of environment. I don’t know what metering options you have on your OM1

You can always use your X100VI as your spotmeter :)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Remember it’s try to set an 18% grey level to determine the exposure, so a relatively bright dog plus (I assume) white or near white walls and it will automatically under-expose (just like a digital camera would), so you either need to take spot readings from darkest and lightest points from the scene and determine using grey matter your exposure, or apply exposure compensation or maybe just spot meter the subject when the shots are in this kind of environment. I don’t know what metering options you have on your OM1

You can always use your X100VI as your spotmeter :)
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Thanks, I do understand metering and I was overexposing but clearly not enough. There's no markings though to say whether it's 1 stop, 2 stops etc so it is a bit of guess work and as I've only shot 2 rolls of film on it I still haven't worked out where the needle needs to be to compensate. This is all the manual says, plus the needle bounces around anyway :lol:

Screenshot 2026-06-19 at 17.58.10.jpg
 
snerkler said:
Thanks, I do understand metering and I was overexposing but clearly not enough. There's no markings though to say whether it's 1 stop, 2 stops etc so it is a bit of guess work and as I've only shot 2 rolls of film on it I still haven't worked out where the needle needs to be to compensate. This is all the manual says, plus the needle bounces around anyway :lol:

View attachment 485412
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Download a simple Lightmeter app for your phone - then in these situations you can do a double check

Bouncing meters never helped anyone :rolleyes:
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Download a simple Lightmeter app for your phone - then in these situations you can do a double check

Bouncing meters never helped anyone :rolleyes:
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I don't plan on shooting much with it. I've got 3 rolls of film to use up and then I doubt I'll buy any more, it's getting too expensive.
 
snerkler said:
Thanks, I do understand metering and I was overexposing but clearly not enough. There's no markings though to say whether it's 1 stop, 2 stops etc so it is a bit of guess work and as I've only shot 2 rolls of film on it I still haven't worked out where the needle needs to be to compensate. This is all the manual says, plus the needle bounces around anyway :lol:

View attachment 485412
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I wish the X100f had that style of exposure reading instead of a histogram......
 
LeeRatters said:
I wish the X100f had that style of exposure reading instead of a histogram......
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I find the histogram much more useful as it shows you whether highlights are being blown and blacks being crushed. A light meter needle like on the OM1 SLR only shows whether it's over or underexposed, the light meter on modern cameras tells you this, but also tells you how much over/underexposed, which again for me is much better than a very vague needle. Of course YMMV
 
snerkler said:
I find the histogram much more useful as it shows you whether highlights are being blown and blacks being crushed. A light meter needle like on the OM1 SLR only shows whether it's over or underexposed, the light meter on modern cameras tells you this, but also tells you how much over/underexposed, which again for me is much better than a very vague needle. Of course YMMV
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The lightmeter on the GX680 - not actually a lightmeter, tells you whether it thinks enough light hit the film after the exposure has been taken!!!

As with virtually all professional Fuji Medium Format Film Cameras you are expected to use an external meter!!!
 
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