The universal trigger interface (The little box)
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cowasaki
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Both of them will be all one board.
I finally finished my first PCB using the 1284p this morning after having loads of problems previously.
The portable version is going to use the 328p with the larger version using the 1284p
I haven't forgotten about the 1284p by the way but wanted to make sure it worked first!
I finally finished my first PCB using the 1284p this morning after having loads of problems previously.
The portable version is going to use the 328p with the larger version using the 1284p
I haven't forgotten about the 1284p by the way but wanted to make sure it worked first!
mmcp42
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Both of them will be all one board.
I finally finished my first PCB using the 1284p this morning after having loads of problems previously.
The portable version is going to use the 328p with the larger version using the 1284p
I haven't forgotten about the 1284p by the way but wanted to make sure it worked first!
not a prob
wasn't hassling you at all!
(and a working version is always a sound idea!)
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cowasaki
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Right well I now have two fully working mobile triggers.....
The white one is the original version built as a shield onto a 328p board.....
Using this working design I built a PCB design which went into the black version (this version had a couple of faults which I fixed) then....
Using THAT version with the fixes I produced two identical working PCBs (The green one is the one I built and the white one is one Mrs_C built - Her first attempt at soldering electronic components and it worked first time
). This particular version relies on a 2.5mm stereo socket, 3.5mm mono socket, potentiometer for the menu selection and 3 buttons all being attached to the case and wired to the board.....
Not a solution I am a big fan of so today I have finished a newer better version that contains ALL of the components on the board! This will include all the buttons and everything so that all we need to do is simply take the prepared case and place the board inside, do up 2 screws, plug in the 9V snap connector and screw the case together. This new board should be up and running in a few days.
I have also located all the components I want to use except that I cannot find a rotary 10K linear potentiometer that is PCB mountable and the same size as the rotary encoder WITH a switched off position. So there will have to be a separate on/off switch.
These two built boards work just the same but are more of a pain to assemble. These will be going to John CGeezer who was the initial inspiration and to the TP staff toy cupboard.
Selling them has got a step closer
The white one is the original version built as a shield onto a 328p board.....
Using this working design I built a PCB design which went into the black version (this version had a couple of faults which I fixed) then....
Using THAT version with the fixes I produced two identical working PCBs (The green one is the one I built and the white one is one Mrs_C built - Her first attempt at soldering electronic components and it worked first time
). This particular version relies on a 2.5mm stereo socket, 3.5mm mono socket, potentiometer for the menu selection and 3 buttons all being attached to the case and wired to the board.....Not a solution I am a big fan of so today I have finished a newer better version that contains ALL of the components on the board! This will include all the buttons and everything so that all we need to do is simply take the prepared case and place the board inside, do up 2 screws, plug in the 9V snap connector and screw the case together. This new board should be up and running in a few days.
I have also located all the components I want to use except that I cannot find a rotary 10K linear potentiometer that is PCB mountable and the same size as the rotary encoder WITH a switched off position. So there will have to be a separate on/off switch.
These two built boards work just the same but are more of a pain to assemble. These will be going to John CGeezer who was the initial inspiration and to the TP staff toy cupboard.
Selling them has got a step closer
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cowasaki
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Well...
I've added a modification so that with a special lead the device can be programmed via the trigger port whilst still attached to the trigger.
Created a complete all in one water droplet trigger box which by its design is always aligned.
Just working on the software now as it needs a polish as the hardware gets better.
Just completed the latest PCB which uses PCB mounted sockets, buttons, menu pot and the encoder plus the opto couple is now mounted on the reverse of the PCB so it can be changed without removing the screen etc.
Oh we have an on/off button too
Complete kit completed and ready for CGeezer to do some water droplet shots over the next week or so.
Just working also on the sound trigger.......
I've added a modification so that with a special lead the device can be programmed via the trigger port whilst still attached to the trigger.
Created a complete all in one water droplet trigger box which by its design is always aligned.
Just working on the software now as it needs a polish as the hardware gets better.
Just completed the latest PCB which uses PCB mounted sockets, buttons, menu pot and the encoder plus the opto couple is now mounted on the reverse of the PCB so it can be changed without removing the screen etc.
Oh we have an on/off button too
Complete kit completed and ready for CGeezer to do some water droplet shots over the next week or so.
Just working also on the sound trigger.......
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cowasaki
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Right here we are then......
The software is now virtually finished and now you can watch on the rear screen as you adjust the camera delay and the water drop moves down the screen towards the water
Here is it setup for the first time in it's entirety:
and the result:
This is just using natural light and the D200 (I was taking the pictures of the setup using the D700).
The software is now virtually finished and now you can watch on the rear screen as you adjust the camera delay and the water drop moves down the screen towards the water
Here is it setup for the first time in it's entirety:
and the result:
This is just using natural light and the D200 (I was taking the pictures of the setup using the D700).
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cowasaki
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I will make one
The sound trigger is also working. The big problem has been that is was not very reliable when firing the camera but I then realised that you need to make the circuit for a longer time! Now it fires every time
The intervalometer works
The sound trigger works
The water droplet detector works
The laser beam breaker works
The programming interface works
The software is VERY nearly at RC1 stage
The portable box is at a close to completed stage too
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Awesome work Darren, I have been watching this with great interest
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cowasaki
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Anybody want to see the STAND ALONE sound trigger ?
I will be doing TWO sound triggers, one of them plugs into the universal trigger control unit and is powered and controlled by that plus I am doing a completely stand alone sound trigger.
BUT
The stand alone sound trigger is going to have a socket on the side which will allow it to plug into universal trigger control unit too (on the board below this will be the four holes on the middle left)!!
So what you can do is get the stand alone sound trigger THEN later on you can upgrade to the universal trigger with one of the other trigger units but still use the sound trigger.
In it's stand alone configuration you have the same two controls to adjust the sensitivity (rough and fine) plus a trigger off button (there is a link across this button in the above picture) but you cannot adjust the delay. This is not really an issue with the sound trigger because you would mostly be wanting to take pictures of something AS it makes the noise.
There is a strong possibility that THIS may be available in a matter of weeks in order for me to get the money to put the main device into production. Anyone buying this device will still be able to use it with the universal trigger later!
This device is triggered by VIBRATION or SOUND and you can plug either a microphone OR a piezo crystal into it.
I will be doing TWO sound triggers, one of them plugs into the universal trigger control unit and is powered and controlled by that plus I am doing a completely stand alone sound trigger.
BUT
The stand alone sound trigger is going to have a socket on the side which will allow it to plug into universal trigger control unit too (on the board below this will be the four holes on the middle left)!!
So what you can do is get the stand alone sound trigger THEN later on you can upgrade to the universal trigger with one of the other trigger units but still use the sound trigger.
In it's stand alone configuration you have the same two controls to adjust the sensitivity (rough and fine) plus a trigger off button (there is a link across this button in the above picture) but you cannot adjust the delay. This is not really an issue with the sound trigger because you would mostly be wanting to take pictures of something AS it makes the noise.
There is a strong possibility that THIS may be available in a matter of weeks in order for me to get the money to put the main device into production. Anyone buying this device will still be able to use it with the universal trigger later!
This device is triggered by VIBRATION or SOUND and you can plug either a microphone OR a piezo crystal into it.
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Ooh nice Darren, its the sound part I was interested in
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cowasaki
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Ooh nice Darren, its the sound part I was interested in
Remember though that this device cannot control the delay so you would probably want the main control later but it should be good for balloons etc.
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Had a brilliant day at Darren's we had a play in the studio with the water drops module, it's far surpassed even my wildest dreams. I can see Darren's trigger going global. Anyone want to see some video? ... Well it's uploading now and I will post some links in a few minutes.. In the mean time here is a photo to give you all a nice warm glowing feeling inside.
My advice is to get your orders in quickly
... Well it's uploading now and I will post some links in a few minutes.. In the mean time here is a photo to give you all a nice warm glowing feeling inside. My advice is to get your orders in quickly
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Had a brilliant day at Darren's we had a play in the studio with the water drops module, it's far surpassed even my wildest dreams. I can see Darren's trigger going global. Anyone want to see some video?
My advice is to get your orders in quickly
Fantastic
Can I trouble you so much and ask you to explain the set-up and how you worked the contraption.
Thanks in advance
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Wail,
You need something that stores water and allows it to drip out (in my case a burette).
You then set this up so that the drips fall through the hole in the water drop detector breaking the light beam within.
You then turn the sensitivity control until each water drop lights the LED.
The water drop detector is then connected to the universal trigger interface and the interface connected to the camera.
You then run one of several supplied routines:
INSTANT
TRIGGER
INTERVALOMETER
SOLENOID
in this case TRIGGER...
You then set:
the number of repeats (just a large number will do)
the camera port ON
the camera delay to say 100 milliseconds
the flash port OFF (the flash is firing from the camera in this example)
the repeat delay
Then the camera is in MANUAL mode setup as you would for a studio and MANUALLY focussed on the point where the water drop will hit.
Then you start the drips......
As each drip goes through the device it waits for (camera delay/1000ths second) before it fires which will give the drip time to fall into the water bath underneath.
You can see this in the rear screen of the camera.
By adjusting the CAMERA DELAY setting up and down you whilst it is working you can set it so that it takes the picture at just the right time for the effect you want
You need something that stores water and allows it to drip out (in my case a burette).
You then set this up so that the drips fall through the hole in the water drop detector breaking the light beam within.
You then turn the sensitivity control until each water drop lights the LED.
The water drop detector is then connected to the universal trigger interface and the interface connected to the camera.
You then run one of several supplied routines:
INSTANT
TRIGGER
INTERVALOMETER
SOLENOID
in this case TRIGGER...
You then set:
the number of repeats (just a large number will do)
the camera port ON
the camera delay to say 100 milliseconds
the flash port OFF (the flash is firing from the camera in this example)
the repeat delay
Then the camera is in MANUAL mode setup as you would for a studio and MANUALLY focussed on the point where the water drop will hit.
Then you start the drips......
As each drip goes through the device it waits for (camera delay/1000ths second) before it fires which will give the drip time to fall into the water bath underneath.
You can see this in the rear screen of the camera.
By adjusting the CAMERA DELAY setting up and down you whilst it is working you can set it so that it takes the picture at just the right time for the effect you want
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cowasaki
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Darren,
Thank you very much for the elaborate explanation. Can't wait to get one
And perfect timing for back to school
I have to find a number of components in the spec I need then I need to work out how I can finance it all and whether it is best to have then professionally assembled or build them etc.
As it stands the device is working.
I also want to find a solenoid that can drip a water drop as and when I want to.
The solenoid routine in the universal trigger is currently capable of pushing a clip in order to say drop a strawberry into some cream or similar......
Might be selling the stand alone sound trigger first to get the money, might have another alternative.......
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cowasaki
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The desktop/professional version which started all this is no longer going to be built as already described.
I will be building a dual screen, dual processor, remote control, radio remote, high and low power, peli case version capable of being attached to 4 or maybe 8 different triggers etc etc - this will be next year sometime. Most people will find the portable version is what they need.
I will be building a dual screen, dual processor, remote control, radio remote, high and low power, peli case version capable of being attached to 4 or maybe 8 different triggers etc etc - this will be next year sometime. Most people will find the portable version is what they need.
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cowasaki
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He's no Stephen Spielburg but you might just about get the idea
We will do a proper video next week
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Can I also say to add that the trigger never missed a beat and once set up caught EVERY single drop that went through the detector without fail.
Also the fact that finding a commercial equivalent device online charging £xxx for the device then shamelessly followed by £xxx added per lead, adaptor, drip kit, sound attachment, intervolomator, etc. etc individually shows quite clearly that Darren really is not in this purely for the money and should be applauded for his total commitment and immersive drive into this project.
I shall ignore the "he's no Steven Hawking" comment though!
Also the fact that finding a commercial equivalent device online charging £xxx for the device then shamelessly followed by £xxx added per lead, adaptor, drip kit, sound attachment, intervolomator, etc. etc individually shows quite clearly that Darren really is not in this purely for the money and should be applauded for his total commitment and immersive drive into this project.
I shall ignore the "he's no Steven Hawking" comment though!
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cowasaki said:Now I need to find someone with an air gun to try and see if the water droplet detector will work as a pellet detector too
I believe this is normally done via a sound trigger with a delay, I think the 100% accuracy of your detector gives you other options too, I hope you are a good shot though
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It was Stephen Spielburg.
I have a camcorder somewhere so we can get some footage and then stick it all together with the bits of the Adobe software that I haven't used yet
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cowasaki
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I believe this is normally done via a sound trigger with a delay, I think the 100% accuracy of your detector gives you other options too, I hope you are a good shot though
I know but the way my beam breaker circuit works it should detect something as small and quick as a pellet. If that is the case then it will be far easier for people to set up and use.
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This video lark is a joke, took me a number of attempts to upload and then had to wait in an imaginary queue (for non payment and not joining their exclusive club) at Vimeo for it to be converted!! I then went to YouTube and ended up going to bed after a too long wait uploading. Thanks to mrs CG for finally posting the link
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Okay it was a poor joke anyway,
I don't know, it would have been rather handy today it one of our cameras had video. I really don't mind if they add video so long as it doesn't ruin the still ability.
My D4 has turned into an oscilloscope/logic analyser, bench PSU, surface mount rework station, soldering/desoldering station, complete PCB manufacturing setup etc etc etc
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cowasaki
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After John left I set it all up again finding a better setup that was a tad more stable.
Basically you can see a lab stand G clamped to the cross member on the roof pointing downwards and to this is a burette clamp and burette. Also attached to the stand is a manfrotto super clamp / arm / second super clamp. In the super clamp is the water droplet detector. This is all connected up as described earlier with the Lencarta Smart flash studio light being triggered using a radio transmitter as I couldn't find a 3.5mm to 3.5mm studio light cable at the time. (the portable trigger control unit has a socket on it to directly control the studio light BUT this socket also acts as a solenoid control socket so when using solenoids you only have the camera socket. This isn't an issue as you can control the light with the camera OR alternatively I will be selling a camera output socket to flash adapter & a camera output socket to HIGH POWER flash adapter)
Basically you can see a lab stand G clamped to the cross member on the roof pointing downwards and to this is a burette clamp and burette. Also attached to the stand is a manfrotto super clamp / arm / second super clamp. In the super clamp is the water droplet detector. This is all connected up as described earlier with the Lencarta Smart flash studio light being triggered using a radio transmitter as I couldn't find a 3.5mm to 3.5mm studio light cable at the time. (the portable trigger control unit has a socket on it to directly control the studio light BUT this socket also acts as a solenoid control socket so when using solenoids you only have the camera socket. This isn't an issue as you can control the light with the camera OR alternatively I will be selling a camera output socket to flash adapter & a camera output socket to HIGH POWER flash adapter)