The universal trigger interface (The little box)

This sounds very interesting just wondering how it's going so far and I'm very interested in buying one if it is what I think it is sound,light,laser...input to trigger Flash and camera wirelessly or wired not sure after reading the whole thread but would be definatly be interested.:D
Will it be able to trigger all nikon cameras?
 
This sounds very interesting just wondering how it's going so far and I'm very interested in buying one if it is what I think it is sound,light,laser...input to trigger Flash and camera wirelessly or wired not sure after reading the whole thread but would be definatly be interested.:D
Will it be able to trigger all nikon cameras?

Yes anything with a 10 pin Nikon plug or anything that you can get an RF603 lead for :)

Both hardware and software heading towards the finishing line :)
 
Yes anything with a 10 pin Nikon plug or anything that you can get an RF603 lead for :)

Both hardware and software heading towards the finishing line :)

Sorry if this is a stupid question but what is an RF603 lead,
because i know my camera doesn't have a 10 pin nikon plug (its a D90) and i don't know what to look for to see if its compatible with a RF603 lead. :thinking: :D
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question but what is an RF603 lead,
because i know my camera doesn't have a 10 pin nikon plug (its a D90) and i don't know what to look for to see if its compatible with a RF603 lead. :thinking: :D

D90 has one, it goes to the micro USB like socket if I remember rightly.

N3lead.png


Nikon D90 D5000 D7000 D3100 all use this cable plus possibly others.
 
Thanks :), i was just wondering roughly what size would it be ? and i will be interested in buying one when available.:D

I am hoping to have the prototype finished within the next 4 weeks. Not sure after that but keep an eye on the thread.
 
Sorry to hear about finger, I hope you make a full recovery on that.

As for the device, great to see it coming to a "full version". Can't wait.

(y)
 
Well the prototype in a box is now built to the point that the LCD screen is fully working as is the contrast etc. The connections for the buzzer, the buttons and LEDs are made as is the IR receiver....

The I/O port, camera ports and HP flash ports are fitted and wired to the main circuit board but then do not do anything.

Just need to add the LP flash ports and build the output circuits for all the ports then build the external triggers.

Once that is done I design the board on the computer in order to create my actual circuit board PCB and I can decide if this is something that can easily be built in house or whether I speak to a contact I have about them building the circuit boards at their circuit board factory!

Now to think of the box it goes in and to also build the portable version :)


Question......

I have found a peli case just about the ideal size which would make a fantastic "rugged" case and be a great +£30 option but still need to decide what normal desktop case would be best.


Oh and people wanted to see mission control plus the prototype...

universal_trigger_proto1.JPG


universal_trigger_proto2.JPG


universal_trigger_proto3.JPG
 
I have to say your "Mad Scientist Lab" looks much neater than mine. ;)

Looks like it's coming along nicely.
 
I have to say your "Mad Scientist Lab" looks much neater than mine. ;)

Looks like it's coming along nicely.

I had just spent 3 hours moving everything around and re-wiring the whole place. My Christmas has now arrived.....

UNI-T 4102C 100MHz 2 channel digital storage oscilloscope with 16 channel logic analyser and 2 x current to voltage adapters :) Niiiice so that can be seen on the desk.

My old 20MHz analogue scope is now redundant :)
 
Any idea if the 'rugged' version will be as they're normally phrased 'water resistant'?
I know it's probablt a pita with electronics but I'm sure like as few other I'd probably use such a device out in the field, maybe once the final box is knocked up and we know sizes one of these sealed plastic bags with cable outlets can be used.

PS
Keep up the good work :)
I looked but I couldn't see a first aid kit ;)
 
Looking good Mr. Darren (y).

Question; is this to be a battery powered device, or AC? Same for the rugged version?

Love the pictures :love:
 
Looking good Mr. Darren (y).

Question; is this to be a battery powered device, or AC? Same for the rugged version?

Love the pictures :love:

Yes battery powered or DC via the USB plug so you can use a £3 car adapter with the supplied USB lead too :)
 
Any idea if the 'rugged' version will be as they're normally phrased 'water resistant'?
I know it's probablt a pita with electronics but I'm sure like as few other I'd probably use such a device out in the field, maybe once the final box is knocked up and we know sizes one of these sealed plastic bags with cable outlets can be used.

PS
Keep up the good work :)
I looked but I couldn't see a first aid kit ;)

Its in one of the drawers at the right :) Most things are not visible, the Mac pro, proliant server and linux box are behind those drawers too!
 
How much might you be after for that?

John has first refusal on it but if he doesn't want it then I will have to stick it in the adds section to comply with the rules. I will of course let you know before I do. It's probably worth £50 with one probe (my other probe is one I bought a few weeks ago for £20 so I would let it go for what I paid or let the buyer get another cheap probe for £6-10 from ebay). But like I said it has to be done via the correct route. It is a nice scope though.
 
Well I've been at it since 8:00 am, Fnarr! Fnarr!

Anyway just to keep everyone informed.....

The full on "cased prototype" has now gone past the breadboard version with:

All low power ports fully setup, wired and working.
All camera ports fully setup, wired and working.
Buzzer wired in and working.
RTC wired in and working.
Separate board for HP section built and populated (just needs wiring).
I/O port wired up for beam breaker circuit board.
All LED are state changeable by the software.
IR receiver fitted.
Board keepers fitted.
Now everything works from 5V USB so no need for external PSU.
Addition of 3.5mm sockets on rear as low power ports.

Then tonight in software land...

Re-written menu routine.
Added section into the setup menu allowing all IO functions to be tested.

Might finish the hardware tomorrow so long as nothing changes......

Still have the HP board to wire up.
IR output section to build.

Oh and a box with all the ports normally on a camera, flash etc to test the device.

Then I can start on the trigger leads :)
 
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Well I've been at it since 8:00 am, Fnarr! Fnarr!

Anyway just to keep everyone informed.....

The full on "cased prototype" has now gone past the breadboard version with:

All low power ports fully setup, wired and working.
All camera ports fully setup, wired and working.
Buzzer wired in and working.
RTC wired in and working.
Separate board for HP section built and populated (just needs wiring).
I/O port wired up for beam breaker circuit board.
All LED are state changeable by the software.
IR receiver fitted.
Board keepers fitted.
Now everything works from 5V USB so no need for external PSU.
Addition of 3.5mm sockets on rear as low power ports.

Then tonight in software land...

Re-written menu routine.
Added section into the setup menu allowing all IO functions to be tested.

Might finish the hardware tomorrow so long as nothing changes......

Still have the HP board to wire up.
IR output section to build.

Oh and a box with all the ports normally on a camera, flash etc to test the device.

Then I can start on the trigger leads :)

dunno what's taking so long :LOL:
 
Well after getting back from the hospital about my finger I had to repair the bench power supply then started work on a quick side project which is a box with all of the same connections as the main box but inside it will have an intelligent circuit tester so that I can test all the functions (and timing!) of the main box. Only got as far as wiring up all the sockets and leads.....

RTC circuit board failed so had to re-wire the box to work with the alternative board until the RTC chips I ordered from Hong-Kong arrive so that I can add them to the actual main board.

The RTC has 56 bytes of battery backed up memory so I'm giving the option of saving all the variables to the RTC so that it remembers them between power offs.

Finished the high power board...... I have bought HIGHER value relays than what would be required for the flashes and now technically it could switch 10 amps at mains level.......... So how about turning the power on and off for the studio lights/spot lights etc for time lapse..... Will think about that.
 
I've got something similar 99% finished - based around the open source Arduino with four sensor inputs and four trigger outputs. I'm not planning to market mine though, I just wanted something that would work for wildlife, water drops, bursting balloons, shattering glass and similar :D

Good luck with it :)
 
Excellent project and I'm very interested in this.

Digressing slightly, can anyone techy tell me what the maximum usable distance would be for a laser beam breaker ?

Ie, how far apart, in broad day light if that makes a difference, would it be possible to locate a laser beam and 'receiver' (sorry, not technical here at all !) which when broken would trigger the camera ?

Would 10m apart be too far ?
 
Digressing slightly, can anyone techy tell me what the maximum usable distance would be for a laser beam breaker ?
It would depend a lot on the power and focus of the laser; the really big ones can be bounced off the moon.

I would say, from a logistical POV, that it would be better to have the laser and detector side by side, and bounce the beam off a microprismatic surface (a bike rear reflector, or the silver strip stuff from Hi-Vis coats). You won't need power supplies at both ends then.
 
Thanks for that.

Apologies for the noddy questions, but what would I expect to pay for such a laser that was capable of a 10m (or so) throw ?

Is this something that's readily available in Maplins or similar ?
 
Maplin offer an IRLED beam breaker kit. You could try swapping out the LED module for an IR laser module and see if that extends the range if the kit is insufficient for your needs.

The problem with using IR lasers is the beam is invisible - much harder to set up and focus accurately although I've set up a subroutine in my controller code to continuously return a value from the receiver (my modules are dual purpose and can either be used with a discrete receiver sensor or with a retro reflector) for alignment purposes. :)
 
Well after getting back from the hospital about my finger I had to repair the bench power supply then started work on a quick side project which is a box with all of the same connections as the main box but inside it will have an intelligent circuit tester so that I can test all the functions (and timing!) of the main box. Only got as far as wiring up all the sockets and leads.....

RTC circuit board failed so had to re-wire the box to work with the alternative board until the RTC chips I ordered from Hong-Kong arrive so that I can add them to the actual main board.

The RTC has 56 bytes of battery backed up memory so I'm giving the option of saving all the variables to the RTC so that it remembers them between power offs.

Finished the high power board...... I have bought HIGHER value relays than what would be required for the flashes and now technically it could switch 10 amps at mains level.......... So how about turning the power on and off for the studio lights/spot lights etc for time lapse..... Will think about that.

you're going for relays rather than opto isolators? dont they incur some latency?

I've got something similar 99% finished - based around the open source Arduino with four sensor inputs and four trigger outputs. I'm not planning to market mine though, I just wanted something that would work for wildlife, water drops, bursting balloons, shattering glass and similar :D

Good luck with it :)

heh, ive just finished a similar setup myself. arduino system written from scratch based on the cameraaxe. 2 flash/camera triggers, wireless nikon camera trigger (the d70 has no remote cable so i just imitated the nikon remote). then droplet valve, gate sensor and laser trip wire :) I'll have my arduino source code up soon if you want to nick owt.

DSC_0604.jpg
 
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Interesting, I might have to grab one or two of those. I just bought 3 of these from Proto-Pic, but they're out of stock now.

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/594

Not as powerful than the ones you've linked, but I've had successful setups with the laser & photoresistor a good 20ft apart with no problems.

you're going for relays rather than opto isolators? dont they incur some latency?
Hmmm... I would've said so too. Anything mechanical is going to have some kind of delay, no matter how small. For water droplets it's probably not a big deal (as long as that delay is consistent) as you'll be adding a delay anyway to get the impact, but for a sound trigger, that may be problematic.

Looks like there's a few of us building systems off Arduinos. Just etched my first ever shield last night. Today I need to drill and see if it actually works. ;)
 
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Interesting, I might have to grab one or two of those. I just bought 3 of these from Proto-Pic, but they're out of stock now.

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/594

Not as powerful than the ones you've linked, but I've had successful setups with the laser & photoresistor a good 20ft apart with no problems.


Hmmm... I would've said so too. Anything mechanical is going to have some kind of delay, no matter how small. For water droplets it's probably not a big deal (as long as that delay is consistent) as you'll be adding a delay anyway to get the impact, but for a sound trigger, that may be problematic.

Looks like there's a few of us building systems off Arduinos. Just etched my first ever shield last night. Today I need to drill and see if it actually works. ;)

I'm using opto-isolators for the camera and LP ports. The relays are for the HP ports which will control upto mains level. I will be calibrating the system so that if the relays take 5mS to fire they get the pulse 5 seconds earlier! Most people will never use the HP ports anyway!
 
you're going for relays rather than opto isolators? dont they incur some latency?



heh, ive just finished a similar setup myself. arduino system written from scratch based on the cameraaxe. 2 flash/camera triggers, wireless nikon camera trigger (the d70 has no remote cable so i just imitated the nikon remote). then droplet valve, gate sensor and laser trip wire :) I'll have my arduino source code up soon if you want to nick owt.

I am virtually there with the software! I'm using a rectangular screen for mine and a menu system so its rather different. With the inclusion of a real time clock for time lapse etc, PS2 and remote control it does change it somewhat. The 1280 is a rather capable controller so I'm using that.

Relays have their uses but most they do have latency as has been said but firing them just before they are needed is the thing to do :) I am timing the latency to calculate the time to fire them so that they line up time wise. Like I've said though, most people will not bother using the HP section but it is there for those that need it.

I will keep adding more and more to the software as time goes by so people can come up with suggestions plus with the I/O port taking inputs and output outside there is scope for people to add all manner of extras later.
 
Looks like there's a few of us building systems off Arduinos. Just etched my first ever shield last night. Today I need to drill and see if it actually works. ;)

I will have a 3 tank etching system by this time next month if anyone needs PCBs making up :)
 
BLOOMIN' NORA DAZZA! you have been a busy boy! only just noticed this thread... looks like a brill project you've undertaken there, can't wait to see the thing in action.

it sounds almost as groundbreaking as my electric self-stirring coffee mugs :puke:
 
BLOOMIN' NORA DAZZA! you have been a busy boy! only just noticed this thread... looks like a brill project you've undertaken there, can't wait to see the thing in action.

it sounds almost as groundbreaking as my electric self-stirring coffee mugs :puke:

Haha :) Did you notice the piece of slate on my bench :)
 
you're going for relays rather than opto isolators? dont they incur some latency?



heh, ive just finished a similar setup myself. arduino system written from scratch based on the cameraaxe. 2 flash/camera triggers, wireless nikon camera trigger (the d70 has no remote cable so i just imitated the nikon remote). then droplet valve, gate sensor and laser trip wire :) I'll have my arduino source code up soon if you want to nick owt.

DSC_0604.jpg

if he doesn't want to see your code - I certainly do!!
pretty please cherries++
 

Missed this picture before, are those 40x2 HD44780 LCDs? Where'd you find 'em? All I can find is 20x4 and 16x2. Would love to get my hands on some 40x2 if you know where I can get some. :)
 
I'm using opto-isolators for the camera and LP ports. The relays are for the HP ports which will control upto mains level. I will be calibrating the system so that if the relays take 5mS to fire they get the pulse 5 seconds earlier! Most people will never use the HP ports anyway!

I was also worried about the delay from using a relay
Is it consistent enough that you can anticippate it like that?
could you not use a thyristor (or is that so 20th century?)?

(probably a typo but if it takes 5mS to fire a 5mS earlier pulse is best!!)
 
I was also worried about the delay from using a relay
Is it consistent enough that you can anticippate it like that?
could you not use a thyristor (or is that so 20th century?)?

(probably a typo but if it takes 5mS to fire a 5mS earlier pulse is best!!)

Arr yes. I have looked with the scope and they are repeatable. We are talking about quite small time delays but remember this is a working prototype so if it doesn't work then I dig out some SCRs :) (they were always the fall back). IF it works well with relays then I can use the relays to turn on MAINS for studio lights in the time lapse section too......

I've actually got a full day tomorrow which will be brilliant.
 
Arr yes. I have looked with the scope and they are repeatable. We are talking about quite small time delays but remember this is a working prototype so if it doesn't work then I dig out some SCRs :) (they were always the fall back). IF it works well with relays then I can use the relays to turn on MAINS for studio lights in the time lapse section too......

I've actually got a full day tomorrow which will be brilliant.

cool
if you ever need one beta testing just bellow
 
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