tips on HDR

Greyhound

Greyhound

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Name
Steven
Edit My Images
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hi all

im using the canon 600d and just want some advice and tips on HDR shots and software to use im currently using lightroom3.4 and i dont think i can use it for HDR

thanx
 
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There are probably a variety of approaches, but this is what works for me.

In manual, take a shot at a "normal" exposure.

I take either 5 or 7 shots alltogether. Adjust shutter speed to give 1 stop exposure difference between each shot - 2 under and 2 over.

I use Photomatix to make the HDR.

Biggest tip after that - be subtle. IMO the best HDR doesn't look like HDR, but then some people love the garish look you can get. Each to their own.

Oh, sorry if this is obvious - you'll need a tripod.

An example:


Twenty to Sunset by simon ess, on Flickr
 
^^ Thats a nice shot Simon

One thing i would say is if you do it with photomatix dont take that as the complete shot. Take it to Lightroom or photoshop afterwards and tweak it in there as well
 
As many exposures as it needs, generally at least six if it's a csene worth HDR, could be as many as fourteen.. process in your HDR software of choice (I prefer FDRtools), export to Lightroom, tweak and job's a good 'un. Most HDR lacks shadow depth to my eyes, I generally put back some deep shadows to help define shape and dimensionality.

 
I paid for LR/Enfuse last night (Free trial is 500px max on the long side, min donation is £2 + VAT) and have to say it's great so far. I have been using it to increase dynamic range, not create wild surreal images which are not my cup of tea.

It merges the images into an nice even image, though a touch flat. Once back in Lightroom I treat it like a normal image. The result is nice and natural looking, something I found impossible when I tried the Photoshop merge tool.

http://www.photographers-toolbox.com/products/lrenfuse.php
 
The latest update of Canon's own DPP software now has a HDR tool just for you to know
 
How come shutter speed would be the modification for different exposure, i would have thought it would be the ISO for different exposure levels - ive even tried the bracketing that is part of the 600d but i cant get any pics near as good as the one posted above.

Should I abandon the bracketing and do it at different shutter speeds and ISOs as a combination or simply stick to the bracketing but do every level that is available so all exposures are captured then HDR it in PS/PM ?
 
Carlh said:
How come shutter speed would be the modification for different exposure, i would have thought it would be the ISO for different exposure levels - ive even tried the bracketing that is part of the 600d but i cant get any pics near as good as the one posted above.

Should I abandon the bracketing and do it at different shutter speeds and ISOs as a combination or simply stick to the bracketing but do every level that is available so all exposures are captured then HDR it in PS/PM ?
Click to expand...

Why ISO? changing shutter speed doesn't affect the ability of the sensor to record the scene, changing ISO does. Anything over base ISO for your camera and you're compromising your HDR from the start.

Think about what changing the ISO does..
 
Alastair said:
Most HDR lacks shadow depth to my eyes, I generally put back some deep shadows to help define shape and dimensionality.
Click to expand...

That is so true.

It reminds me that a couple of months ago, on a wet Sunday, I played with the idea of taking 1 or 2 more underexposed shots than overexposed. The results looked promising, but I've yet to try it seriously.

Aah - found it. A nothing shot of nothing but I think a slightly better balance.

I shall experiment further. Thanks for reminding me Alastair.


Armchair by simon ess, on Flickr
 
The quick fix for the shadows is to take the tonemapped image into PS/PSE and overlay at about 30% opacity one of the darker exposures from the exposure sequence. It's a really quick fix and instantly puts some depth back into the image.
 
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