I can only speak for speedlites as that's all i've used. I don't have a studio, so for me, portability is key. I can pop the speedlites in my camera bag and pop them on a couple of stands, have them stood on a set of p.a. speakers, get someone to hold them etc etc without the need for wires, plugs and so on. Having said that, if i had dedicated studio space, i would invest in lights specifically to have them in the studio, but it would be the speedlites that would be with me on location.
Thanks Phil, that flash looks great for the price - I already had 4 speedlights though with triggers (Yongnuo 560 III's) so have bought a 5th and have spent £130 on 2x 150cm and 2x109cm umbrellas. I think while I'm still learning and mastering it speedlights will be fine for a learning base until I then start playing with proper studio lights.
At weddings, indoors I generally use speedlights too, but outside to fight sunlight I like to have the power available sometimes (battery powered studio type flash or hybrid)I can only speak for speedlites as that's all i've used. I don't have a studio, so for me, portability is key. I can pop the speedlites in my camera bag and pop them on a couple of stands, have them stood on a set of p.a. speakers, get someone to hold them etc etc without the need for wires, plugs and so on. Having said that, if i had dedicated studio space, i would invest in lights specifically to have them in the studio, but it would be the speedlites that would be with me on location.
You'll soon learn the limitations of that kit
What are you going to need 4 lights with brollies for?
Light isn't always about adding enough, it's more important to be able to control where it lands, and for that softboxes, reflectors and grids are the modifiers of choice, and flags and reflectors to further control.
It'd work, (if that's what you want to achieve) be prepared to experiment with zoom positions. It's also a lot to go wrong when learning to light, I'd usually advise buying 2 but start shooting with 1 flash (there's 1 sun). The shooting equivalent would be going out on your first trip with 2 cameras a tripod and lenses from 16 to 400mm; it clearly makes more sense to learn one thing at a time. There's a reason training courses start simple.I figured I'd use 2 of the smaller brollies to light a backdrop, and 2 big ones for key/fill light and a barebone flash as hair/backlight. Feel free to tell me this is wrong, I'm still learning.
I completely agree, and basically it's the fast recycling and the modelling lamp that makes the difference that should be obvious to everyone - the better liqht quality when used with softboxes and the higher power is perhaps less obvious.A lot of people who have never used studio heads seem to have the idea that they're somehow difficult and clumsy, whereas speedlites are small and easy and reassuringly familiar. It's actually the other way around!
Sure, studio heads are bigger than speedlites but they're hardly difficult to handle. The big and cumbersome part is the stands and softboxes, and of course they're exactly the same either way. Controls couldn't be easier - basically a power control knob plus on/off switches for the modelling lamp and optical slave. That's it.
There no faffing with mounting brackets and stuff, and softboxes etc fit straight on with the flash tube in the ideal position for best light. And in performance terms, they simply have speedlites beaten every which way. Prices start at under £100.
If you're anywhere nears a mains socket, studio heads are made for the job
Arse about face but...Cool, you've all swayed me! My studio has loads of power outlets so perfect really, going to learn the basics and practice with speedlights - then upgrade to studio heads asap.
Cool, you've all swayed me! My studio has loads of power outlets so perfect really, going to learn the basics and practice with speedlights - then upgrade to studio heads asap.