Washing Your Car!

R.Y.K. LEE said:
Is a sealant the same as a wax? I understand that a polymer sealant is a synthetic wax, am I right?
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Sealant is not chemically the same but does a similar job. Both waxes and sealants are "last stage" products. i.e the last thing you put on. Very generally speaking, sealants are easier to apply than waxes. Esp the hard waxes in flat round tins.

R.Y.K. LEE said:
Or do I wash, dry, seal, then wax?
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I would, wash, dry, polish, seal OR wax.

As Russ said, one or the other will be fine. Id say go with a sealant for now for ease. The Autoglym one I mentioned (extra gloss protection) is a doddle to apply. I recently used the Farecla super resin wax from halfords which is a few quid more expensive than the autoglym. That does a nice job too and is pretty easy to apply.
 
I am OCD about cars and have always followed all the do's and don'ts ....but oh how I wish I had never chose black for my latest car !!
 
Every time I see this thread in the listings I keep thinking it says, Washing your carl I thought maybe it was a private reference to a certain body part :D
 
Galaxy66 said:
I am OCD about cars and have always followed all the do's and don'ts ....but oh how I wish I had never chose black for my latest car !!
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My car's black too! I found my silver car before this one hid dirt much better. But I guess its more of a pain to clean by the time the dirt does show :)
 
If you want a long lasting, easy to apply and reasonably cost effective wax, I can't recommend colinite 915 highly enough http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/collinite-915-marque-d-39-elegance/prod_281.html

I've had the same tin for nearly 9 years and there's still a few waxes left! Bear in mind that the usage has been 2 cars every 3-4 months plus ad-hoc use on other people's cars. Not that you're meant to but I've even applied it in hot sunshine with very little problems.
 
Russ77 said:
If you want a long lasting, easy to apply and reasonably cost effective wax, I can't recommend colinite 915 highly enough http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/collinite-915-marque-d-39-elegance/prod_281.html

I've had the same tin for nearly 9 years and there's still a few waxes left! Bear in mind that the usage has been 2 cars every 3-4 months plus ad-hoc use on other people's cars. Not that you're meant to but I've even applied it in hot sunshine with very little problems.
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Being lazy....

Can I apply this after going through a machine car-wash?

Effectively instead of "wash, dry, polish, seal OR wax". I'd only have to wax to prolong the just-washed effect.
 
wuyanxu said:
Being lazy....

Can I apply this after going through a machine car-wash?

Effectively instead of "wash, dry, polish, seal OR wax". I'd only have to wax to prolong the just-washed effect.
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I've tried applying it with a machine but it's actually more difficult tbh.

Once you've done your initial "hit" (clay, polish, wax) with that wax you'll get away with just wash & dry for 3-4 months, you can eek this out a little longer if you use turtle wax wax it wet when you dry it, just spray on once you've rinsed the car and wipe off as you dry it.

I only polish my car once a year, I may clay it in between polishes if it needs it but using that wax it only really needs waxing 3-4 times a year.

For example.....

Apr - Wash, clay, polish, wax (might add another coat of wax after a week or so if I feel like it)
May - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
Jun - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
July - Wash weekly and use wax it wet, wax if required (you'll get less "beading" when the wax needs re-applying)
Aug - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
Sept - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
Oct - Wash weekly and use wax it wet, wax if required (you'll get less "beading" when the wax needs re-applying)
Nov - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
Dec - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
Jan - Wash weekly and use wax it wet, wax if required (you'll get less "beading" when the wax needs re-applying)
Feb - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
March - Wash weekly and use wax it wet
 
wuyanxu said:
Being lazy....

Can I apply this after going through a machine car-wash?

Effectively instead of "wash, dry, polish, seal OR wax". I'd only have to wax to prolong the just-washed effect.
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I wouldnt. Wax *ought* to be applied to a totally clean and free of chemical, soap, anything surface. The machine car wash will almost certainly not leave the car like this.

Having said this if you're not too bothered about swirl marks and the wax only lasting a week or so, go for it.
 
DorsetDude said:
Whatever you do, don't go to detailingworld.co.uk for information. I did and I now spend up to 5 hours when Im doing a "big" wash and that doesnt include the interior.

The holy grail of cleaning/washing is not to let any grit, dust etc thats on your car get wiped round all over it when washing. It is this grit that causes all the swirling, fine scratches.

In your case a very basic idea might be:
Snow foam, dwell
Hose/wash off
Two bucket method to wash the car with noodle mitt. Noodle mitt in wash solution bucket, wash part of panel, rinse off in rinse bucket to get any grit off mitt, back into wash bucket and so on to complete entire car.
If buckets get exceptionally dirty during, empty them and refill and carry on.
Rinse car off after wash with hose/washer.
Dry car off, do not use chamois or rub. Get a large microfibre cloth and simply lay on surface and pat in place, lift off and repeat. I can get my golf dry using two large ish MF cloths this way.
Personally I wouldnt worry about clay yet, its a bit advanced (if you do want to get a G3 clay mitt to use, but you'll need clay lubrication spray to use with it as well)
After wash and dry, then you can polish, buff off then either a wax or a sealant, buff off.
I get my stuff when Halfords have a 3 for 2 sale on car stuff.
Try Auytoglym super resin polish followed by autoglym extra gloss protection for sealant.

For your wheels Ive found the simoniz alloy wheel cleaner really good. Use a different mitt (or a sponge on the wheels, but not the bodywork) I also use a wheel brush which can be found cheap in TK maxx quite often to get between the spokes and really scrub. If you're doing wheels, do them first, nothing worse than wheel grime flicking up onto your nice clean paintwork.

The above is what Id call a "big" wash.

For an interim wash I'd do snow foam and rinse, two bucket clean, rinse, dry off then apply a quick detailer (or waterless wash as they're sometimes called but you dont want to be applying this when the car is covered in dust/dirt as the dirt will mark the paint as you wipe).

Hope this helps. Any Q's feel free to ask.
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I used to help my mate who had a detailing business, was just about to say I know s great forum but if you have any ocd tendencies avoid it !
Snow foam for show, elbow grease for glow!
 
jakeblu said:
Every time I see this thread in the listings I keep thinking it says, Washing your carl I thought maybe it was a private reference to a certain body part :D
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Not just me then!
 
All this talk of clay bars, but no mention of this being a no no, if you have metallic sparkly finish paint on your car.:eek: Read the instructions first.(y)
 
shreds said:
All this talk of clay bars, but no mention of this being a no no, if you have metallic sparkly finish paint on your car.:eek: Read the instructions first.(y)
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You sure guv? Most paint these days has a lacquer (clear coat) finish on top anyway so all your doing is cleaning back to the clear coat layer then waxing etc. You wont end up anywhere near the paint. Quite happy to be corrected but seems logical to me.
 
If you have the money and care enough get it done at a detailed first and ask for an easy maintenance finish. My car used to dry itself completely streak free, only required a "polish" twice a year to maintain. Need to unsubscribe to this as I am now looking through the shed for my sun gun ...
 
shreds said:
All this talk of clay bars, but no mention of this being a no no, if you have metallic sparkly finish paint on your car.:eek: Read the instructions first.(y)
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Been using clay bars for years on metallic paintwork with no issues :)

Although we're talking consumer grade which would be a World apart from those used in bodyshops ;)
 
I am genuinely surprised by how many of you do all this to your cars... we just go to the carwash!
 
Bobsyeruncle said:
Fairy liquid strips the wax :eek:
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I think this is why a fair few of use have "Liked" it lol

I've not read everything here but it's amazing what a weekly wash of 15-20 minutes in plain water does but like many, I spend money on extras and this year I'm going to try clay bars.

A moment I'm not proud of at all, but I wrote my mother's car many years ago (early 1980's). It was bought for £2,500 and I washed it most weekends with just water. Two years later when I crashed it the assessor came to visit and he organised a cheque for ... £2,500.

My insurance premium for the next 12 months was £500 for a £3,000 car. I was outraged as was my father. These days, a £3,000 premium for a £500 car for an 18 year old is deemed a bargain. How times change.
 
I do this for a living, I'm a mobile car valeter. Here's some basic tips.

Always pre-rinse your car, preferably with traffic film remover.
Use the two bucket method with grit guards in the bottom of each, one of just water, the other with wash and wax shampoo.
Use a lambs wool my it. NEVER USE A SPONGE!! Grit stays on the top of your sponge so can swirl paint.
Dry with a microfibre towel, use 2 if necessary. One to get the worst off, the second to to dry completely.
Dry door shuts so they don't water mark.

Waxing depends on the wax. Use a damp applicator to help it spread and buff off with a microfibre towel. I use a basic liquid spray wax in all my mini exterior valets just to add shine and some protection. A decent wax should go on every 6 months to a year.

IMHO snow foam is a gimmick. I use a traffic film remover through my washer.

I've had kartcher but am now using a kranzel. But it was over £600.

Brush :O No, never. Except caravan/motorhome roofs.

Waterless. I can't see how this system can work without scratching the car, no matter what they say.

Another tip for waxing dark cars: When you are removing the wax from the bonnet sometimes it will look a little 'oily' Wet it quickly with your drying mircofibre and then buff again with your wax off mircofibre. Hay-presto!


Hope this all helps.
 
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mrgubby said:
Be very very careful with the pressure washer, ours took the paint of the sills on Mrs Gubbys Fiesta :(
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The paint on fiesta sills is pants. They get very chipped just behind the front wheel due to road grit etc so your paint was probably hanging off in the first place. You'd find it hard to take good paint off with a cold washer.
 
Raptor Mike said:
I do this for a living, I'm a mobile car valeter. Here's some basic tips.

Always pre-rinse your car, preferably with traffic film remover.
Use the two bucket method with grit guards in the bottom of each, one of just water, the other with wash and wax shampoo.
Use a lambs wool my it. NEVER USE A SPONGE!! Grit stays on the top of your sponge so can swirl paint.
Dry with a microfibre towel, use 2 if necessary. One to get the worst off, the second to to dry completely.
Dry door shuts so they don't water mark.

Waxing depends on the wax. Use a damp applicator to help it spread and buff off with a microfibre towel. I use a basic liquid spray wax in all my mini exterior valets just to add shine and some protection. A decent wax should go on every 6 months to a year.

IMHO snow foam is a gimmick. I use a traffic film remover through my washer.

I've had kartcher but am now using a kranzel. But it was over £600.

Brush :O No, never. Except caravan/motorhome roofs.

Waterless. I can't see how this system can work without scratching the car, no matter what they say.

Another tip for waxing dark cars: When you are removing the wax from the bonnet sometimes it will look a little 'oily' Wet it quickly with your drying mircofibre and then buff again with your wax off mircofibre. Hay-presto!


Hope this all helps.
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Thanks!

I heard that with TFR, that I have to be very careful with the dilution and the timing. Will it damage paintwork etc if I use too strong of a mixture or if I left it on the body for too long?

What dilution would you recommend using?

As for the mitt, why lambs wool? I was looking at noodle mitts and the prices vary widely. There was a £2.99 in the Co-op.
 
R.Y.K. LEE said:
Thanks!

I heard that with TFR, that I have to be very careful with the dilution and the timing. Will it damage paintwork etc if I use too strong of a mixture or if I left it on the body for too long?

What dilution would you recommend using?

As for the mitt, why lambs wool? I was looking at noodle mitts and the prices vary widely. There was a £2.99 in the Co-op.
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Yes you do have to be a little careful. Normally it's not to let it dry, although obviously at times this can't be helped. I normally leave it on while I fill the buckets. ADDED IN EDIT: The worst I've seen is it leave the paint a little streaky but this seems to go as the car dries. You don't have to cover the car though unless you are doing a deep clean or there's birds much over it. In my mini exterior I normally go 2/3 up the doors, the whole bonnet and windscreen and the back of the car. I also do some in the arches and wheels and then apply a stronger one to wheels. The one I use on the bodywork normally though doesn't take of previous wax. I have to others though, a stronger one for shuts, crevices and window ages (basically anywhere you get greenery growing) also all over on really bad cars. And another even harsher one for seals, arches and basic clean off wheels.

Mix wise it depends. I used to use my all over one through a spray bottle which was 8 litres and mixed it with about 6 litre of water, so 2/6. But it's less than this through the washer. The others I still use in a spray bottle and have them quite strong.

What you use depends on what and how much you want to do. There is, dare I say it, an art to washing cars properly. I do clay barring and polish mopping and wouldn't recommend either unless really needed.

As for wash mitts, lambs wool is is much better for your paint. At £2.99 you've answered your own question lol. Here's the link to the one I use: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-Lu...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
 
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Raptor Mike said:
Yes you do have to be a little careful. Normally it's not to let it dry, although obviously at times this can't be helped. I normally leave it on while I fill the buckets. ADDED IN EDIT: The worst I've seen is it leave the paint a little streaky but this seems to go as the car dries. You don't have to cover the car though unless you are doing a deep clean or there's birds much over it. In my mini exterior I normally go 2/3 up the doors, the whole bonnet and windscreen and the back of the car. I also do some in the arches and wheels and then apply a stronger one to wheels. The one I use on the bodywork normally though doesn't take of previous wax. I have to others though, a stronger one for shuts, crevices and window ages (basically anywhere you get greenery growing) also all over on really bad cars. And another even harsher one for seals, arches and basic clean off wheels.

Mix wise it depends. I used to use my all over one through a spray bottle which was 8 litres and mixed it with about 6 litre of water, so 2/6. But it's less than this through the washer. The others I still use in a spray bottle and have them quite strong.

What you use depends on what and how much you want to do. There is, dare I say it, an art to washing cars properly. I do clay barring and polish mopping and wouldn't recommend either unless really needed.

As for wash mitts, lambs wool is is much better for your paint. At £2.99 you've answered your own question lol. Here's the link to the one I use: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-Lu...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
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That's not too bad of a price for the lambs wool mitt. I thought it would be one of those specialist items that they charge through the nose on lol.

How do I clean it afterwards? By hand or is it machine washable?

Was looking at the Carplan stuff again at Halfords. Comes in 5L containers. Hi-Foam, TFR, and some kind of pour on wax (looks like the same stuff as Demon Shine). Will these be a good start?
 
R.Y.K. LEE said:
That's not too bad of a price for the lambs wool mitt. I thought it would be one of those specialist items that they charge through the nose on lol.

How do I clean it afterwards? By hand or is it machine washable?

Was looking at the Carplan stuff again at Halfords. Comes in 5L containers. Hi-Foam, TFR, and some kind of pour on wax (looks like the same stuff as Demon Shine). Will these be a good start?
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I used to machine wash mine but found it ruined them so I normally but it on the grit guard of an empty bucket and jet it out. To be honest if you are doing it right they don't need cleaning out often anyway. Every time you return to the buckets rub it on the grit guard in the rinse bucket.

Regarding the other product I'm afraid I cant comment as I don't use them.
 
Auto(sorry about the pun!)rinsing?
 
Raptor Mike said:
That's why people pay me to do it (y) And so they know it's done right. Also for some people their car is the second, if not the first, biggest investment they've made.
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Great posts and thank you - when I'm keen (not the last year or so I must admit!) I have done a 20 minute wash with water and a soft brush once a week and a 5 hour clean once a year.

Some great tips. I bought a clay bar a few weeks ago, mainly for the windscreen but not used it yet. Too flamin' cold and wet to be thinking about washing cars :)
 
EdwardL said:
Great posts and thank you - when I'm keen (not the last year or so I must admit!) I have done a 20 minute wash with water and a soft brush once a week and a 5 hour clean once a year.

Some great tips. I bought a clay bar a few weeks ago, mainly for the windscreen but not used it yet. Too flamin' cold and wet to be thinking about washing cars :)
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It's not cold now, January was cold!! And this winter has been mild. You know it's cold when you can't wash your hands with the water from the butt in your van and then start jumping about in pain ;)
 
Okay guys,

Just sprayed some snowfoam and its not as I expected!

Not very foamy, doesn't blanket the car. What am I doing wrong? I have followed the instructions properly. Smells nice though, like marzipan lol :D
 
Being in the Motor Trade hopefully I can offer some useful advice here.
I would avoid all Pressure washer attachments/Brushes. They can be a nighmare if you pick up a bit of grit and brush it across the car. Best with a good traditional sponge and washing up liquid or a wash and wax additive. TFR is great for the engine bay, under the wheel arches and the lower sections only. Beware though as some TFR can damage/discolour the chrome strips and black gloss strips near the Windows. If almost makes a rainbow effect that cannot be removed. Use a Alloy wheel cleaner, but be careful with the acid based ones as the will eat away at the plastic wheel centres and blister them. Put it on and don't leave it too long.
Do not use the rubber wipers/scrapers for drying. Use a chamois. The new synthetic ones are sometime better than the more expensive leather types. I would usually wax a car every month although it's not written in stone. I would suggest getting your products from a trade supplier like Autosmart or Autoglym they are our mobile suppliers. They offer some nice products and advice. The ones you buy from some of the car centres are not that great and you pay a lot for small amounts. Maybe you can ask a local garage when the local van/supplier is there and grab some bits from the van at trade rates. Good Luck.
 
Oxford_Matt said:
Being in the Motor Trade hopefully I can offer some useful advice here.
I would avoid all Pressure washer attachments/Brushes. They can be a nighmare if you pick up a bit of grit and brush it across the car. Best with a good traditional sponge and washing up liquid or a wash and wax additive. TFR is great for the engine bay, under the wheel arches and the lower sections only. Beware though as some TFR can damage/discolour the chrome strips and black gloss strips near the Windows. If almost makes a rainbow effect that cannot be removed. Use a Alloy wheel cleaner, but be careful with the acid based ones as the will eat away at the plastic wheel centres and blister them. Put it on and don't leave it too long.
Do not use the rubber wipers/scrapers for drying. Use a chamois. The new synthetic ones are sometime better than the more expensive leather types. I would usually wax a car every month although it's not written in stone. I would suggest getting your products from a trade supplier like Autosmart or Autoglym they are our mobile suppliers. They offer some nice products and advice. The ones you buy from some of the car centres are not that great and you pay a lot for small amounts. Maybe you can ask a local garage when the local van/supplier is there and grab some bits from the van at trade rates. Good Luck.
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You shouldn't use washing up liquid. As I understand it ruins paint over time. Wash and wax shampoo isn't expensive. And you are better of not using a sponge but a lambs wool mitt. Some good advice about trim. Some cars are fine but Audi are a nightmare, including their roof rails. You should always pre rinse a car and use a tfr on the bottom half ast least before even touching it. Rinsing with water alone just won't cut it 99% of the time.
 
Raptor Mike said:
You shouldn't use washing up liquid. As I understand it ruins paint over time. Wash and wax shampoo isn't expensive. And you are better of not using a sponge but a lambs wool mitt. Some good advice about trim. Some cars are fine but Audi are a nightmare, including their roof rails. You should always pre rinse a car and use a tfr on the bottom half ast least before even touching it. Rinsing with water alone just won't cut it 99% of the time.
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Washing up liquid is fine. My valeters and detailers use it daily on my prestige stock cars and my own cars.
TFR is far more aggressive that washing up liquid. FACT
 
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