Wez's D810 thread

gramps said:
Are you using the Focal solid target or a paper print-out?
If a paper print-out how are you ensuring that the target remains flat to the lens at all times and is not affected by any breeze?
Was the light good when you carried out the test?
Did you ensure that the lens remained stable even when inputting the AF +/- changes manually?
The distance you calibrated at should not be causing you this problem.
I would try calibrating again and see what figure you get but make sure that you consider my questions above. :)
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Thank you for popping in and offering advice, it's very much needed at this stage! :)

It was the paper print-out, sellotaped to the door on all 4 sides. (Breeze could have got under but I made sure it was as flat as possible, still there's a chance)

The light was really good as I used a floor standing pair of 400w halogen floodlights.

I held the camera with the other hand to ensure any movement whilst entering the +/- AF value was at a minimum.

I will try it out, by moving the camera and laptop as far as I can get it.

Hopefully the light's good tomorrow afternoon, I shall do it after work (y)

Like I said, they're not even half-decent shots, but I'm sure they shouldn't look that bad :D
 
BillN_33 said:
Morning

may not help Wez - but i'm starting at zero and working my way up - making sure I eliminate any "other" factors that may effect the shot, (but I cannot eliminate me, so maybe?), - I have not calibrated the lens yet and all my shots have been at under 10 metres

but were you at ISO 2000?

keep at it - from all I read you need to take a bit more care with the D810 than other Nikon bodies - but I am finding it a bigger challenge and a worthwhile one .......

I'll post a few shots on here this evening - just rough and ready shots

these may not help - but they are the longest shot I have

but hand held with the 300mm PF + 1.7TC at 1/500th f8 - VR on

(I think that I got what I expected)

Keep posting and as you suggested we can use your thread as a D810 - bird and image thread


I was at ISO 2000, yes. But I wouldn't have thought that would make much difference as considering the exposure was good. I sometimes have trouble seeing any noise in the photos that are at 1600 ISO!

I'm going to keep at it, because user error plays a huge part, but something is not sitting right with me about it.

I have the keys to the village hall, might set it all up in there and get as far back as possible. Will certainly be further than my garden :)
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Wez, Looking at your EXIF your ISO was around the 320/400/800 mark apart from the test branch one which was 2000 and your shutter speeds were around the 2000 > 4000 mark according to Focal. So not sure what Bill was implying?

I would be looking at testing on a larger static object to start with all settings set at zero, then start adjusting if needed as Paul mentioned. I know the D810 has a dampening shutter but I think it's only when MUP. I'm not so sure that you need to have the SS that high when on a tripod and I would be starting at around 1/1000 to eliminate some shutter shock, looking at the conditions I don't think you needed to be upto 1/2000 or 1/4000 if using a steady tripod and Gimbal in those conditions?

It would also be interesting if you could retest in centre AF mode, also what metering setting was you on? Also, are you locking the AF mode being set?

I used to be anal about testing lenses and It can be a headache at times, but I would thought Focal should reduce that. I test on my neighbours alarm box which is about 120mtrs away. The below was with the 80-200mm f2.8 lens and every thing is sharp, I can see every course of cement.

Testing D810 & 80-200mm f2.8 lens by Swansea Jack, on Flickr
 
wezza13 said:
I held the camera with the other hand to ensure any movement whilst entering the +/- AF value was at a minimum.
Click to expand...

Not sure if that would be better or worse, two hands might induce more movement ... the tripod should lock it down and adjustments should be made very carefully.
 
Swanseajack said:
It would also be interesting if you could retest in centre AF mode, also what metering setting was you on? Also, are you locking the AF mode being set?
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I'll definitely re-test it tomorrow on a neighbours wall. I'll make sure I pick something really far away but the only thing with that is that if I go back to shooting birds up close, surely the focus will be out?

Do you mean single-point AF? If so, it was set on AF-S single point and the main centre focus point :)
 
gramps said:
Not sure if that would be better or worse, two hands might induce more movement ... the tripod should lock it down and adjustments should be made very carefully.
Click to expand...

Also, I fine-tuned my 70-200 2.8 straight after the 150-600 and I used it this afternoon to get some pics of the bikers doing the May Day run from London to Hastings. Got some really nice shots with that one, focus hardly missed. I tried single point AF, Group area AF and dynamic 9 AF and they all worked well.

Definitely need to re-test this 150-600 (y)
 
wezza13 said:
If so, it was set on AF-S single point and the main centre focus point :)
Click to expand...

Wez, I think that Focal only works with one of the two, (AF-C or AF-S) - it tells you when you start .. so you cannot go wrong in this respect
 
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wezza13 said:
I'll definitely re-test it tomorrow on a neighbours wall. I'll make sure I pick something really far away but the only thing with that is that if I go back to shooting birds up close, surely the focus will be out?

Do you mean single-point AF? If so, it was set on AF-S single point and the main centre focus point :)
Click to expand...

Yes single center point.

Just to clarify, was it on AFS when taking the heron photos or just for Focal testing? If AFS, not sure if that the best for BIF and possibly should have been using AFC single point. Also, have you locked the focus button, the one with the "L" on the multi selector.?

Picking up on some of the comments, if you're using Focal to calibrate your lens in AFS on a static test chart what do you do for AFC moving subjects? I have never used the software so not sure if that will make a difference?
 
Swanseajack said:
if you're using Focal to calibrate your lens in AFS on a static test chart what do you do for AFC moving subjects? I have never used the software so not sure if that will make a difference?
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AF-S for the calibration is merely to ensure that the lens isn't going to shudder back & forth during the test (as it would), thereby giving erroneous or no readings ... in the field AF-C would not affect the tested lens focus accuracy, it would just be whether or not the focus point was kept on the subject. HOWEVER, you rightly point out that it would need to be on AF-C for BIF or the chances of a sharp image would be seriously reduced :)
 
Have you ever tried it with AFC Roger?... If using a fixed target with a tripod and a wind free day would it hunt anyway? I just tried it in my living room on a ornament and when locked it didn't seem to move. I'm just wondering how the software works, as if testing in one mode then using in another doesn't make sense to me. AFS for static subjects and AFC for continuous movement. I'm probably over thinking things:eek:

On my D750, as most of my bird photography is at home on a perch, I used to use AFA which was a combination of AFS & AFC. On these more professional bodies they omit AFA.:D
 
To clarify - I always keep it on AF-C regardless of whether I'm taking portraits of the family or the pets, etc. I switched it to AF-S Single point though for the FoCal test.

The Heron was on AF-C, 5 Point Group Area AF with the focus point addon showing that focus was achieved.

I'm going to nip out in a bit and try it on the neighbours brick wall, which is quite a long way off (it'll tell me how far it is when I look at the images on the PC). I'll probably retry it first with FoCal as it's really bright and a lovely, sunny day.

Also, I've never used the Multi-Selector "L" lock. The first thing I checked when I was actually there was to make sure that the VC was turned off, which it was (y)
 
wezza13 said:
To clarify - I always keep it on AF-C regardless of whether I'm taking portraits of the family or the pets, etc. I switched it to AF-S Single point though for the FoCal test.

The Heron was on AF-C, 5 Point Group Area AF with the focus point addon showing that focus was achieved.

I'm going to nip out in a bit and try it on the neighbours brick wall, which is quite a long way off (it'll tell me how far it is when I look at the images on the PC). I'll probably retry it first with FoCal as it's really bright and a lovely, sunny day.

Also, I've never used the Multi-Selector "L" lock. The first thing I checked when I was actually there was to make sure that the VC was turned off, which it was (y)
Click to expand...

Wez

If you use FoCal at the recommended distances and settings, take your time, do it two or three times to check that it is consistent, look at the graph .......... you will get there

With all due respect to Simon, I would not recommend this "distant brick wall" test at all - why? you will not have any "evidence" to view or compare or look at

If you want an image based test, you are better using the ruler at 45 degrees or the SpyderLensCal ............... as it is only science
This will show you clearly front and back focus issues, if there are any


https://www.amazon.co.uk/datacolor-SLC100-SpyderLensCal-PC-Black-White/dp/B0041L3JS4


 
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Swanseajack said:
Have you ever tried it with AFC Roger?
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No I wouldn't Simon as it could introduce an error to the test.
Swanseajack said:
On my D750, as most of my bird photography is at home on a perch, I used to use AFA which was a combination of AFS & AFC. On these more professional bodies they omit AFA.:D
Click to expand...
AFA seems like a good idea but the lag for the system to realise that the subject is moving and for it to change setting to AF-C introduces an unnecessary delay.
 
BillN_33 said:
Wez

If you use FoCal at the recommended distances and settings, take your time, do it two or three times to check that it is consistent, look at the graph .......... you will get there

With all due respect to Simon, I would not recommend this "distant brick wall" test at all - why? you will not have any "evidence" to view or compare or look at

If you want an image based test, you are better using the ruler at 45 degrees or the SpyderLensCal ............... as it is only science
This will show you clearly front and back focus issues, if there are any


https://www.amazon.co.uk/datacolor-SLC100-SpyderLensCal-PC-Black-White/dp/B0041L3JS4
Click to expand...


Morning Bill,

I use the brick wall to check the sharpness of a lens, i.e corner to corner sharpness, if it's fine I leave the lens as it is. This test is evidence as I keep the photos to compare, so not sure what your on about?. It's a static subject and is used as a starting point at distance.

I used to use the ruler and battery test before. As I mentioned above, I used to get anal about it, so don't go looking for problems anymore unless they are obvious. If there's a glaring issue I use the DOT tune method for MFA.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM


I have seen people complaining in the past that their photos were blurry/OOF and they haven't even set the diopter correctly.:D

I'm interested in the testing for when I get a longer lens later in the year, but looking at this method something doesn't sit right with me after looking at Wez's photos. This maybe user, camera or lens error, so I would zero everything and start again if I was Wez. Will be interesting to see the repeat results.

Also, if you read some of the different suggestions for testing a lens, you should use up to 50 x focal length, so on a 600mm lens is it 300 meteres? What do Focal suggest at this focal length?
 
Swanseajack said:
Morning Bill,

I use the brick wall to check the sharpness of a lens, i.e corner to corner sharpness, if it's fine I leave the lens as it is. This test is evidence as I keep the photos to compare, so not sure what your on about?.

How can you tell from that if your lens need back or front focus adjustment - and if it does which way do you go

are you flush onto the wall ......... do you use exactly the same spot every time

How far away is it - infinity - do you use your long lens at infinity much, (infinity and long lens are a subject in themselves)

too many variables ........ if you test anything you need to cut down the variables as far as you can


It's a static subject and is used as a starting point at distance.

I used to use the ruler and battery test before. As I mentioned above, I used to get anal about it, so don't go looking for problems anymore unless they are obvious. If there's a glaring issue I use the DOT tune method for MFA.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM

I have used all you mention - the latest FoCal, (the one introduced this year), I feel is the best of any

I have seen people complaining in the past that their photos were blurry/OOF and they haven't even set the diopter correctly.:D

I'm interested in the testing for when I get a longer lens later in the year, but looking at this method something doesn't sit right with me after looking at Wez's photos. This maybe user, camera or lens error, so I would zero everything and start again if I was Wez. Will be interesting to see the repeat results.

Also, if you read some of the different suggestions for testing a lens, you should use up to 50 x focal length, so on a 600mm lens is it 300 meteres? What do Focal suggest at this focal length?

Focal recommend x 20 for the 600mm

(I use x 20 and x 10) and compare .. as 10 is nearer my regular shooting distance with the 600mm)
Click to expand...

so its 12 metres with the 600mm
 
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Bill,

I'm not sure how there can be "too many variables" on a static subject like a alarm box on brick wall, sure its going to be more stable than a chart on a tripod. The wall or alarm box doesn't move so it's less variable than a chart on a tripod? I use the alarm box for testing longer focal lengths and my overflow pipe for shorter distances. With me, the tripod is setup, I just open the legs and it goes in the same spot every-time and the height is set.

With Focal, does it only tell you if a lens is back or front focusing? and what is the sweet spot for the aperture of a particular lens?

With the testing I can see from the courses of cement if it's sharp and find out the sweet spot for my lens, my 80-200mm is sharp wide open @ f2.8 and through aperture range at what I would use it for.

I'm not trying to be awkward or anything, I just want to understand the software and if the current version makes life easier, I'm all for it.

@gramps thanks for the distance link, I added one too many noughts to get to my 300 meters and thought it was wrong after I posted.;)
 
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Swanseajack said:
Bill,

I'm not sure how there can be "too many variables" on a static subject like a alarm box on brick wall, sure its going to be more stable than a chart on a tripod. The wall or alarm box doesn't move so it's less variable than a chart on a tripod? I use the alarm box for testing longer focal lengths and my overflow pipe for shorter distances. With me, the tripod is setup, I just open the legs and it goes in the same spot every-time and the height is set.

With Focal, does it only tell you if a lens is back or front focusing? and what is the sweet spot for the aperture of a particular lens?

With the testing I can see from the courses of cement if it's sharp and find out the sweet spot for my lens, my 80-200mm is sharp wide open @ f2.8 and through aperture range at what I would use it for.

I'm not trying to be awkward or anything, I just want to understand the software and if the current version makes life easier, I'm all for it.

@gramps thanks for the distance link, I added one too many noughts to get to my 300 meters and thought it was wrong after I posted.;)
Click to expand...

Thanks Simon - also I'm not at all trying to be argumentative either - just relating my experience - I used to use a wall at an 45 degree angle to see which of the five bricks was in focus when focusing on the middle one

I cannot explain what FoCal does in a few simple words - but there is plenty of info on the web to help - it sounds complicated but it is not really and it takes longer to set the camera etc up than anything

It is quite logical - it is not expensive - I think that you can get a version for £20, although most people seem to spend 4 x that

The more mega pixels you have the more your equipment will need calibrating - and I think that once you get over 20MP fine tuning is recommended

You may be able to download the software on a free trial and you do not necessarily need to use their chart - you can use another object
 
Just come back indoors after being outside for the last hour or so.

Haven't re-calibrated yet because I noticed something. I noticed it a long time back but didn't think much of it.

With my 150-600 (potentially problem lens), when I'm holding down the AF-ON button (as I use back-button focus) in AF-C mode, I noticed that even if I point at something static with good contrast, the focus dot in the viewfinder still keeps hunting. I say hunting but it keeps flicking between dot, left arrow and right arrow. I've noticed this before on my D600 with this lens and thought the AF just wasn't as good with this lens on the older AF system in the D600.

The reason that I bring this up is that I thought that I'd try my other lens and see if it happened on those. I tried out my Tamron 70-200 2.8, Nikon 300mm F4 and my 50mm 1.8. Guess what?

The dot stays on for focus confirmation. It doesn't keep flicking between the left and right arrows.

Any chance that the AF system in the lens could be at fault? Or am I clutching at straws?
 
Swanseajack said:
With Focal, does it only tell you if a lens is back or front focusing? and what is the sweet spot for the aperture of a particular lens?
Click to expand...

Simon it goes through a series of tests at various micro-AF adjustments and the software (hence not your eyes) decides which setting provides the sharpest focus for your lens and camera combo ... also:-
  • Aperture Sharpness – find out the sharpest aperture for your lenses
  • Autofocus Consistency – check out the autofocus performance of you camera.
  • Dust Analysis – find out how much dust is on your sensor, and which aperture it will start affecting images.
  • MultiPoint Focus Test – automated comparison of many focus points, and even full individual calibration.
  • Report Generation – generates details PDF reports with all analysis results.
  • Target Optimisation – uses features of the FoCal target to optimise test analysis.
  • Expert Mode – allows changing of test settings, e.g. aperture and ISO.
Personally I haven't used all of its features but I know it made a great deal of difference to my 500 f4 and I did my 300 f4 PF with it straight away :)
 
wezza13 said:
Just come back indoors after being outside for the last hour or so.

Haven't re-calibrated yet because I noticed something. I noticed it a long time back but didn't think much of it.

With my 150-600 (potentially problem lens), when I'm holding down the AF-ON button (as I use back-button focus) in AF-C mode, I noticed that even if I point at something static with good contrast, the focus dot in the viewfinder still keeps hunting. I say hunting but it keeps flicking between dot, left arrow and right arrow. I've noticed this before on my D600 with this lens and thought the AF just wasn't as good with this lens on the older AF system in the D600.

The reason that I bring this up is that I thought that I'd try my other lens and see if it happened on those. I tried out my Tamron 70-200 2.8, Nikon 300mm F4 and my 50mm 1.8. Guess what?

The dot stays on for focus confirmation. It doesn't keep flicking between the left and right arrows.

Any chance that the AF system in the lens could be at fault? Or am I clutching at straws?
Click to expand...

Handheld or on a tripod?
 
Just tested all my lenses again on tripod pointing at, for the first test, the bird table.

The second time around I tried them on closer items.

This is what I conclude:

With tripod and ball head, it seems better BUT any slight movement with the 150-600 attached (even just pressing on the camera a touch, we're talking micrometres :) ) then the focus confirmation dot has trouble staying on confirmed.

With the other lenses (also tried the 300mm f4 with and without 1.4tc) they all held focus dot confirmation.

Can any of you, at some point, try it with the lens attached to your camera and see if it behaves as it should in AF-C single point mode please? Static subject, hold the focus button and see if the dot doesn't stay solid?

Will appreciate any response, thanks for trying in advance (y)
 
wezza13 said:
Can any of you, at some point, try it with the lens attached to your camera and see if it behaves as it should in AF-C single point mode please? Static subject, hold the focus button and see if the dot doesn't stay solid?
Click to expand...

Will check tomorrow when out but seem to remember it happening from time to time on longer lenses ... maybe not when locked down though :)
 
Was there an issue with earlier Tamron lenses which needed them to be sent back to have FW updates?

I tried the AFC mode earlier on a static subject with a Sigma 70-300mm lens and my 80-200mm and when focus was confirmed it stayed locked. I mentioned it earlier in thread as I was trying to understand the software for AFS testing.
 
wezza13 said:
Just tested all my lenses again on tripod pointing at, for the first test, the bird table.

The second time around I tried them on closer items.

This is what I conclude:

With tripod and ball head, it seems better BUT any slight movement with the 150-600 attached (even just pressing on the camera a touch, we're talking micrometres :) ) then the focus confirmation dot has trouble staying on confirmed.

With the other lenses (also tried the 300mm f4 with and without 1.4tc) they all held focus dot confirmation.

Can any of you, at some point, try it with the lens attached to your camera and see if it behaves as it should in AF-C single point mode please? Static subject, hold the focus button and see if the dot doesn't stay solid?

Will appreciate any response, thanks for trying in advance (y)
Click to expand...

I think that it is normal Wez depending on the subject and what is around it that it will slightly hunt in and out of focus confirm - I am sure my 600mm does this some of the time
 
BillN_33 said:
I think that it is normal Wez depending on the subject and what is around it that it will slightly hunt in and out of focus confirm - I am sure my 600mm does this some of the time
Click to expand...

I knew this lens did it because it was always in the back of my mind but didn't really think anything of it.

Going to try it out again on Sunday (maybe earlier) and see what I get (y)

By the way, how are you all getting on with your D810's? @BillN_33 @Swanseajack @Osmo

@gramps Do you still use yours much?
 
One other thing that I forgot to mention from Sunday's little outing was that I was trying to get the Swifts in flight with the problem lens, but a lot of the shots had severe chromatic aberration. Like never before too. Never had an issue with it until this D810. It's under warranty for 5 years and I only bought it last June.

Like Simon says (ha, geddit? :) ) it may need a firmware upgrade or something.
 
wezza13 said:
One other thing that I forgot to mention from Sunday's little outing was that I was trying to get the Swifts in flight with the problem lens, but a lot of the shots had severe chromatic aberration. Like never before too. Never had an issue with it until this D810. It's under warranty for 5 years and I only bought it last June.

Like Simon says (ha, geddit? :) ) it may need a firmware upgrade or something.
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Wez,

Theres a thread running on DP where owners have complained about AF issues, maybe worth a read to see if similar problems you're encountering. It's maybe where I had a feeling there were some issues when I was looking at the lens early last year and why I mentioned it above. The dog photo looks good though!

Also, some panning issues which need a FW update from Tamron : Hopefully of some use.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/55056023

http://www.tamron-usa.com/about/updates_canon.php

https://www.photography-forum.org/threads/tamron-150-600-firmware-update.123576/
 
Swanseajack said:
Wez,

Theres a thread running on DP where owners have complained about AF issues, maybe worth a read to see if similar problems you're encountering. It's maybe where I had a feeling there were some issues when I was looking at the lens early last year and why I mentioned it above. The dog photo looks good though!

Also, some panning issues which need a FW update from Tamron : Hopefully of some use.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/55056023

http://www.tamron-usa.com/about/updates_canon.php

https://www.photography-forum.org/threads/tamron-150-600-firmware-update.123576/
Click to expand...


Thank you, I'll be sure to take look on there tonight, just gotta nip out for a bit.

The dog one came out okay, so did a lot of the bird ones that I took in the garden earlier but they were all around 10 feet away! Any longer and they look bad. I'd also reset the AF fine-tune back to 0.

I'm thinking that there may be something up with it, hopefully may just need a f/w update (y)
 
You guys have been busy! I've been reading with interest as I'm preparing to a/f fine tune my 300mm PF.

@wezza13 I tested all of my lenses this evening to check for focus confirmation (solid white focus dot).

All on a tripod (vanguard GH-100).

Lenses tested: 105mm f2.8, 300mm f4 PF + 1.4TC, 70-200mm f2.8 @200mm, 16-35mm f4 @16+35 all locked on with solid white dot without even a flicker
The only flicker I got was from my Sigma 50mm f1.4 Art but only momentarily.

Well lit static subject from about 6 metres away.

While I was trying a few things I also did some comparison shots to try out Live view (zoom focus) + electronic front-curtain shutter (and MuP) + 3s shutter delay using a few of the above lenses. Zooming into 100% 1:1 Mrs Osmo was asked to pick out the sharpest images (just on the LCD screen), without fail she correctly picked out those with the above set up versus tripod mount/view finder only. Some of the differences were quite dramatic.

I know that is to be expected based on everything that is said here and on other reviews of the D810 but it was still nice to see the difference with your own eyes.
 
wezza13 said:
I knew this lens did it because it was always in the back of my mind but didn't really think anything of it.

Going to try it out again on Sunday (maybe earlier) and see what I get (y)

By the way, how are you all getting on with your D810's? @BillN_33 @Swanseajack @Osmo

@gramps Do you still use yours much?
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I think the D810 is an amazing camera Wez, maybe the best there is, (but I have not had a D4S) ...... it is taking me some getting used to but it is all worth it ..... it clearly is a pro camera and it is worth investing the time to get to know it well and to get used to it

I now feel that I will not want to upgrade anytime in the future ... as it is certainly too good for my ability, but I am learning thru using it .......... if you see what i mean
 
wezza13 said:
gramps Do you still use yours much?
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I do Wez, always on walkabout and often with wildlife, however if I know I'm going to see small birds or if I'm in a hide where subjects are distant I will always pick up the D7200.
 
wezza13 said:
Thanks.

I imagine it wouldn't affect it as much as the other day though, with that Heron for example. Just something that's noticeable :)
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Well gave it a try with the D7200 and 500 f4 on the tripod and gimbal ... 90% of the time there was no 'stuttering' of the AF indicator but 10% of the time there was.
No whether that was due to me moving slightly or the subject moving slightly (feather blowing etc) I don't know ... not a very scientific study I guess :)
 
gramps said:
Well gave it a try with the D7200 and 500 f4 on the tripod and gimbal ... 90% of the time there was no 'stuttering' of the AF indicator but 10% of the time there was.
No whether that was due to me moving slightly or the subject moving slightly (feather blowing etc) I don't know ... not a very scientific study I guess :)
Click to expand...

Thank you for trying that out for me. Just tried mine again and it's stuttering far too much for my liking. I'll see if I can go to the local camera shop and test out their copy of the lens and see if it still does it.

If it doesn't, well, I'll be emailing Tamron and invoking the 5 year warranty......
 
Down at the pond yesterday afternoon, practising some BiF. It was nice light, but to be honest, the 150-600mm was just unimpressive. Switched to the 300mm + 1.4tc and the results were instantaneous. A lot better, even the other side which is a long way away, you could see clearly when zoomed in. On the 150-600, you couldn't.

Oh, and I turned off AF fine tune too and kept it off and the results were better with both lenses.

Here's a quick one, got work now so will hopefully post some more later :)

Common Tern by Wez Filtness, on Flickr
 
Just reviving this as I've been out with the D810 and the Tamron 150-600 today for a few hours.

Wanted to test it some more before I sent it off to possibly be re-calibrated / f/w updated.

I left the AF Fine tune off all of the time.

If I focused on something at the other side of the pond (at infinity) at 600mm and f6.3, the result was that the subject was blurry. Stopping it down to f8 or f9 made it ever so slightly sharper.

However, when I kept it at 500mm or shorter the results were a hell of a lot sharper. And, with a budget lens such as this, I would be happy if at 600mm, it was the same as at 500mm but I knew before I purchased this lens that it was meant to be soft at the long end.

When the lens was on my D7100 and D600, 600mm was slightly softer than at 500mm and a quick bit of sharpening in PP sorted it out.

BUT, I reckon that the D810 is accentuating the long end of the focal range and making it look a lot worse than it is, due to the 36mp resolution.

Maybe this is why they require a firmware update to counteract this problem.

Fingers crossed.
 
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