What are the top three specifications (and other questions!)

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Apologies for a long opening and feel free to skip to halfway down this thread! I think I’ve three questions that haven’t been answered yet. Please don’t feel you have to answer all of them!

I’ve done loads of reading but during my research I feel I’m wading into deeper treacle as each time I feel I’ve understood something I find another complication. There are three basics I wanted to clear up.

(Years ago I started with an Olympus OM10 (film SLR). More recently I bought a Fujifilm HS20EXR bridge camera and it is fair to say that I’m very pleased with it.)

However, I’m now looking at the viability of purchasing an SLR as well (used ). Before I start I’ve found some really useful information on these forums and many thanks to all those who’ve taken the time and trouble to respond to others’ questions. I thought that to save repetition (as many questions on the forum are very similar) I’d list what I know.

As I understand things:

a) Like everything in life, buy the best you can afford. With cameras it is more important to spend a budget on a decent lens or two, as opposed to the camera.

b) Canon and Nikon are the market leaders (and for good reason).

c) Different lenses have numbers relating to maximum aperture at the short and long focal length (think I have this correct) but I do understand this bit! E.g. 18-55mm zoom lens, wide to standard focal length f/3.5-5.6 = 3.5 is max aperture at 18mm and 5.6 is max at 55mm. The lower the aperture number the more light the lens allows through and, generally, the better the quality is of the lens.

d) IS = Image Stability and VR = Vibration Reduction and both = Anti Shake (IS-Canon, VR-Nikon) – other letters give other features.

e) When buying a camera you’re buying a system so Canon lenses fit Canon cameras, Nikon lenses fit Nikon, Tamron fit both but with an adapter* and so on.
* in simple terms

HALFWAY!!
:eek:


I have three questions:

Question 1)
I’m stuck with how my camera’s lens compares with say, a Canon equivalent. My lens is:
F=4.2-126mm (35mm equivalent 24mm-720mm), f/2.8-5.6.

A canon EF 100-400mm doesn’t even approach the 720mm of my camera (which cost me about £440). Also it’s aperture settings are 4.5-5.6. However, the lens costs three times as much as my camera and a 2x converter is the same price as my camera! And the quality is out of this world.

So can some good soul explain why my camera cannot get anywhere near the same quality pictures? Perhaps it’s something to do with the sensor (next question!)? Perhaps it’s to do with the DoF (or lack of in my camera)? Or is it something else?

I’m also stuck with this cropping effect (e.g. 1.6 on a Canon, 1.5 on a Nikon). Would an EF 55-250mm with a 2x converter = an 800mm focal length? (1.6 x 250 x 2)?

Question 2)
The sensor on my camera is ½” and I assume this means the diagonal (8mm x 6mm as I’ve read on the dpreview website). A Nikon 300 (in the interests of balance!) is 23.6 x 15.8mm. Does a larger sensor purely equate to quality or are there one or two other factors to consider?

Question 3)
Bearing in mind the lens is more important than the camera when you buy a camera, apart from how it feels, weight, menus and such like what would you say are the top three items (in order) that you feel give the camera the edge on quality? E.g. speed, sensor size, number of pixels. When you’re comparing cars so many look the same but it’s the engine, gearbox and suspension which make the difference. What makes up the “engine, gearbox and suspension” in a camera?

I’d be really grateful for some answers and promise not to follow up with a whole list of more questions!

You got to the end?
:clap:

Edward
 
Question 1 and 2.
The small sensor is what gives your lens such a zoom range. Just as the 100 - 400 has that focal length on a full frame camera but on an APS-C sized sensor (the one you give as example in Nikon D300) is actually has the equivalent of 150 - 600 ish.
The cost is purely down to the materials and manufacturing to produce a much bigger lens with more glass better quality machining, faster focusing etc,.
The quality of images is the combination of the bigger sensor (a larger area to capture the light) and the better lens. The type and technicalities of the sensor do make a difference and a sensor that is only 2 mm bigger could be worse but generally with all things being roughly equal the larger sensor will be better
 
a) Like everything in life, buy the best you can afford. With cameras it is more important to spend a budget on a decent lens or two, as opposed to the camera.
You need good glass, If you're planning on upgrading, sticking with one brand, you can usually keep the lenses for the new camera.
b) Canon and Nikon are the market leaders (and for good reason).
Yes, but don't necessarily rule out the others.
c) Different lenses have numbers relating to maximum aperture at the short and long focal length (think I have this correct) but I do understand this bit! E.g. 18-55mm zoom lens, wide to standard focal length f/3.5-5.6 = 3.5 is max aperture at 18mm and 5.6 is max at 55mm. The lower the aperture number the more light the lens allows through and, generally, the better the quality is of the lens.
Yes.
d) IS = Image Stability and VR = Vibration Reduction and both = Anti Shake (IS-Canon, VR-Nikon) – other letters give other features.
Yes.
e) When buying a camera you’re buying a system so Canon lenses fit Canon cameras, Nikon lenses fit Nikon, Tamron fit both but with an adapter - Nope, Tamron (and others) make lenses to fit Canon/Nikon etc. Adaptors are also available to fit some lens mounts to some camera mounts(brands). For Canon; EF-S lenses are designed for, and will only work with, their cropped sensor cameras. EF mounts are designed for full frame cameras but will work on the crop cameras. Similar with Nikon (I think).* and so on.
* in simple terms

HALFWAY!!
:eek:


I have three questions:

Question 1)
I’m stuck with how my camera’s lens compares with say, a Canon equivalent. My lens is:
F=4.2-126mm (35mm equivalent 24mm-720mm), f/2.8-5.6.

A canon EF 100-400mm doesn’t even approach the 720mm of my camera (which cost me about £440). Also it’s aperture settings are 4.5-5.6. However, the lens costs three times as much as my camera and a 2x converter is the same price as my camera! And the quality is out of this world.

So can some good soul explain why my camera cannot get anywhere near the same quality pictures? Perhaps it’s something to do with the sensor (next question!)? Perhaps it’s to do with the DoF (or lack of in my camera)? Or is it something else?
The focal length you gave is 4.2-126mm, as the sensor in your camera is tiny compared to an SLR, 1/8th If my maths is correct, it only picks up 1/8th of the image you would get from a full frame SLR with the same length lens, the rest of the image is in effect cropped giving the apperance of a much greater zoom. (Google - crop factor SLR).
As Depth of field is related to the actual focal length of the lens, the shorter focal lengths used with the small sensor don't allow shallow depth of field. (Longer focal lengths have greater magnification giving a smaller the depth of field).
All the pixels on your camera are jammed in to that small sensor, amazing when you think of the size of them :) the higher pixel density can lead to other problems, also the lenses in p&s cameras are much smaller so any imperfections/tolerances will have a greater effect.

I’m also stuck with this cropping effect (e.g. 1.6 on a Canon, 1.5 on a Nikon).
The cameras' sensors are 1.6 or 1.5 times smaller than a full frame camera so they only pick up the middle part of the image from the lens. The edges are lost or 'cropped'. The lens, and focal length, stay the same but the image is 'cropped' (smaller sensor) to look like a lens 1.6x as long was used, also called equivalent/effective focal length.
Would an EF 55-250mm with a 2x converter = an 800mm focal length? (1.6 x 250 x 2)?
You would get the same framing as a 800mm, but it would be (250x2 = 500)Cropped to 60%.
Question 2)
The sensor on my camera is ½” and I assume this means the diagonal (8mm x 6mm as I’ve read on the dpreview website). A Nikon 300 (in the interests of balance!) is 23.6 x 15.8mm. Does a larger sensor purely equate to quality or are there one or two other factors to consider?
Lower pixel density less electrical interferance etc., Focal lengths and depth of field as above.
Question 3)
Bearing in mind the lens is more important than the camera when you buy a camera, apart from how it feels, weight, menus and such like what would you say are the top three items (in order) that you feel give the camera the edge on quality? E.g. speed, sensor size, number of pixels. When you’re comparing cars so many look the same but it’s the engine, gearbox and suspension which make the difference. What makes up the “engine, gearbox and suspension” in a camera?
Pixels has got to the point where it doesn't matter anymore for normal use it's just a marketing numbers game, the lens and sensor quality make far more of a difference. Menus i could get used to. Low noise in higher iso images would help a lot which tends to be better in the full frame cameras. Speed of focussing I've found to be more to do with the lens with my DSLR. Other things I'd consider is the time it takes from power on to firing the first shot, memory card types/cost, second hand market for more kit :)
I’d be really grateful for some answers and promise not to follow up with a whole list of more questions!

You got to the end?
:clap:

Edward

Think I got most of the questions HTH.
 
Last edited:
Think I got most of the questions HTH.

Wow!! Blimey Andy_S!!!

Thank you for all the time and effort you've put into that! Really helpful!!

You've both confirmed what I am trying to understand and given me some really useful info.

Thank you, again.
 
top three specifications for me are (in no particular order:)

1) Comfort/ease of use when it comes to button placement. Delving in an out of menus isn't my style - I like things to be obvious and to-hand. The more button the better IMO. Not all cameras are built equal and that matters a lot when you use one most hours of every day.

2) Good high ISO capability. Essential when you don't know if it's going to be an ISO 100 day or pitch black.

3) Weathersealing. Probably the one thing I take for granted most, but it's also probably got me out of more sticky situations than I care to remember.
 
Thank you, Pat. Must admit I'd not thought having more buttons instead of menus - important to me too.

Is the ISO capability just a case of reading numbers off the lens or is this in combination with the body as well?
 
ISO is not related to the lens. ISO comes from film days where the film was rated with a "speed". The sensor now takes it's place (along with all the electronics that go along with it) and does a simliar thing to film. The higher the ISO the faster the film with downside of more grain (or noise in sensor terms).
 
Doh - silly me!!!

Of course it does!

Many thanks for the reminder, Chris!


Thank you, Robert. That's one of the many threads I'd trawled through. It's taken me a fair while to begin to understand sensors (hence my specific question).
 
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