So I was playing with shutter speed today just testing things, and got to 1/200. Aperture set to 3.5 and ISO set to around 100. With flash on this resulted in an over exposed image due to the flash. So I tried to increase the shutter and realized it won't go past 1/200 with flash on (this is in full manual mode and shutter priority mode) so I understand the shutter speed and how it works. But even with an ISO of 12600 aperture of 3.5 and a shutter speed of 1/4000 it is still slightly underexposed. With a very very grainy image due to the ISO. So what is the purpose of a 1/4000 shutter, and where would you effectively use it if your unable to flash to generate the light needed?
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What Is the purpose of a 1/4000 shutter with no flash?
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You can of course use it for two distinct reasons, or combine the two.
1. Use it to freeze subject movement
2. Use it to allow a large aperture to be used, to blur the background.
At 100 ISO on a bright sunny day, you should be able to use 1/4000th at around f/3.5
1. Use it to freeze subject movement
2. Use it to allow a large aperture to be used, to blur the background.
At 100 ISO on a bright sunny day, you should be able to use 1/4000th at around f/3.5
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It is in the range of the sort of setting (possibly on the fast side) that sports photographers use to take pictures of fast moving subjects e.g. skiers, motor sports, racehorses etc.
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This is because the flash duration is very short and the shutter needs to be fully open when the flash fires. The shutter only fully opens at slow shutter speeds. At 1/4000 seconds, the shutter will only be a moving slit when the flash fires and only a small part of the image will get the flash.
You can get around this by using High Speed Sync which allows you to use faster shutter speeds but at the price of a reduced flash intensity. Flash intensity is reduced as the flash actually repeatedly fires for the 1/4000 seconds of the exposure rather than firing with its full intensity once.
1/4000 seconds shutter speed works fine in bright sunlight without the need for flash.
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To add to the above:
Flash is only rarely used at those high shutter speeds (though there is a way to do this)
Just for clarity; why do you want to use flash atthose shutter speeds?
Bear in mind what I posted in the other thread; we don't use flash just to add 'more' light, we use it to control the light.
Flash is only rarely used at those high shutter speeds (though there is a way to do this)
Just for clarity; why do you want to use flash atthose shutter speeds?
Bear in mind what I posted in the other thread; we don't use flash just to add 'more' light, we use it to control the light.
I'm new to this really, so I was just trying a few things with the cameras manual settings, and seen that the flash doesn't fire past 1/200 and was just wanting to know why. I'd planned on trying it indoors to freeze movement of water where brightness wasn't enough to get the shot without a massive ISO which gave me too much grain.
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If the flash is in manual mode dial it down so it gives you a proper exposure. If it's in ttl mode use flash exposure compensation.
Using flash is a two exposure shot
Exposure 1 is your ambient light. How do you want that to be? You main (with flashes fill)?
Totally not there or slightly underexposed.
Leaving the ISO out your ambient is controlled by your shutter and apperture which you dial in accordingly to the above. You might want a shallow dof or a high shutter speed and here is where you decide.
Exposure 2. Your flash, controlled/controlling your apperture and is affected by the flash to subject distance, the Inverse square law. Is this the fill or main light. You can either adjust your flash output to a desired apperture or dial your apperture up or down.
If your subject calls for a shutter speed higher than your sync speed (around 1/160-1/250sec depending on camera brand and model) you need high speed sync and to know how to get into that mode if your camera flash combo can do that. Or you can use ND filters to bring down you exposure which will often save you alot or flash power over doing ttl.
Maybe better explained in this thread
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/using-hot-shoe-flash-on-d3300.662940/#post-7950341
Using flash is a two exposure shot
Exposure 1 is your ambient light. How do you want that to be? You main (with flashes fill)?
Totally not there or slightly underexposed.
Leaving the ISO out your ambient is controlled by your shutter and apperture which you dial in accordingly to the above. You might want a shallow dof or a high shutter speed and here is where you decide.
Exposure 2. Your flash, controlled/controlling your apperture and is affected by the flash to subject distance, the Inverse square law. Is this the fill or main light. You can either adjust your flash output to a desired apperture or dial your apperture up or down.
If your subject calls for a shutter speed higher than your sync speed (around 1/160-1/250sec depending on camera brand and model) you need high speed sync and to know how to get into that mode if your camera flash combo can do that. Or you can use ND filters to bring down you exposure which will often save you alot or flash power over doing ttl.
Maybe better explained in this thread
https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/using-hot-shoe-flash-on-d3300.662940/#post-7950341
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That's in bright daylight, the OP wants to do this indoors
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Yes but the opening question was "what is the point of a 1/4000 shutter speed with no flash...."That's in bright daylight, the OP wants to do this indoors
Regardless of what they want to do.
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So, think about what we've said about the 2 different exposures.
If you dial down the ISO to 100, use a shutter speed of 1/125* and f8, without flash, you'll get a completely black image. Your 'ambient' is so far underexposed that it'll have no effect on your final image.
The flash exposure will be bright enough to light the scene, and faster than the fastest shutter speed your camera has, because the exposure time is only the time the flash is lit, which might be 1/10,000 sec. you can either set a manual output or just use iTTL.
* keep the shutter speed below flash sync and allow some wiggle room for flash communication if using a flash off camera.
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You're right, unfortunately this question is one in a series, where the OP is trying to get his head round why his flash isn't behaving at high shutter speeds.
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Ahh right, I just read it as written...You're right, unfortunately this question is one in a series, where the OP is trying to get his head round why his flash isn't behaving at high shutter speeds.
Yeah flash sync is something I've literally learnt from this post and another I had.another question in. Haven't had chance to properly play with flash yet. My 2 month old son let's me play about 20 minutes at a time after my days work, So just been testing the water.
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You're right, unfortunately this question is one in a series, .
Now the mist clears....