I have been thinking of purchasing a used 35mm film camera purely for black and white street shots but am a bit confused by all the brands and models. Could you fine folks recommend a good reliable camera please? Budget will be around £150 I only require one 50mm lens so that needs to be considered in the price, will that budget be enough for a used, good working order slr? Looking on that auction site they seem to be well priced but a few need working on which I don't want! Any recommendations are greatly appreciated, thank you.
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What to look for in a 35mm camera?
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Thank you for your reply. I would be looking for a manual focus camera and will need a lens as stated, just something to grab quick black and white street shots whilst I'm out and about so no big lenses needed.
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I think Minolta cameras are some of the best bargains going: great usable cameras, and excellent lenses, as good as anything Nikon produced but for a lower price. My pick for manual focus would be an X500 (the better camera) or XD7 (more expensive, but quieter and more solidly built). Pair either with the 50mm f1.7, or 55mm f1.7 and you're done.
...until GAS attacks and you spend years looking for something 'better', and finally realise you had all you needed to start with........or is that just me?!
...until GAS attacks and you spend years looking for something 'better', and finally realise you had all you needed to start with........or is that just me?!
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Limit the number of choices by going 6x6 and buy a Rolleiflex
Mr Badger
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Another vote for the Canon A1 with 50mm, however, it might be worth paying a bit extra for the f1.4 50mm lens, which should give some nice-looking bokeh as well as being a good, sharp lens. Watch out for 'Canon cough' though, which can be encountered on the Canon A series cameras due to the bearings on the mirror damper mechanism drying out. It manifests itself as a squeaky sound when the shutter is fired. It's a reasonably easy fix though (last time I looked it was around £60 or so for an independent pro camera technician to fix - home remedies are available but I don't think you can beat having a proper job done if you're going to keep the camera). Buying from a reputable dealer will cost a bit more but you should get between 3 and 12 months guarantee, which can be worth it.
The A1 was the first '5-mode' 35mm camera, and gives the now standard P AV TV M (P A S M) and stopped-down AE that most modern DSLRs give, so you can choose which mode suits best for the situation at the time, which is very handy. It's also quite compact and light for such a feature-packed camera. Given that the A1 tends to sell for around the same sort of price as the AE1 and AE1 programme (probably as it's not shiny silver and retro looking!), it's a an obvious choice for the discerning user, as it's a much better and more usable camera in my opinion - and I've owned (and sold!) an AE1, but still have my A1 and would not part with it. Hope this is useful.
The A1 was the first '5-mode' 35mm camera, and gives the now standard P AV TV M (P A S M) and stopped-down AE that most modern DSLRs give, so you can choose which mode suits best for the situation at the time, which is very handy. It's also quite compact and light for such a feature-packed camera. Given that the A1 tends to sell for around the same sort of price as the AE1 and AE1 programme (probably as it's not shiny silver and retro looking!), it's a an obvious choice for the discerning user, as it's a much better and more usable camera in my opinion - and I've owned (and sold!) an AE1, but still have my A1 and would not part with it. Hope this is useful.
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That is very helpful thank you. I came across Canon cough whilst surfing the net, people were saying it seriously affects shutter speed, is that right?
Thank you to you all for your very helpful replies, can anyone please advise on where it may be better to purchase such a camera other than that auction site? Are there main dealers that may offer used SLR's? (Somewhere that may offer a limited time warranty?) Again, thank you to you all for your time.
I'll keep that in mind, thank you.
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Most used camera dealers will offer a warranty on their equipment. Harrison Cameras in Sheffield offer a 12 month warranty and West Yorkshire Cameras offer a 3 month warranty.
My advice is to go to a store and handle a few different types. I bought a Nikon F2A without trying it beforehand. There are things which I love about it but there are also other handling issues that I've yet to overcome. For example the focus throw of the lens is very short and (to me) the lens focuses the wrong way.
Mr Badger
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There are a number of shops around, and I've bought used camera kit from West Yorkshire Cameras, Ffordes and London Camera Exchange (Colchester branch via mail order) and not had any problems with the overall service they provided. I believe Harrison's Cameras give 12 months warranty on used cameras, but I've not bough from them (yet) and I don't think they have an A1 in stock at present.
Which part of the country are you in, as that might help people suggest somewhere local - it's always nice to be able to see and try before you buy? However, if you buy from a well-established and reputable dealer then returning an item if it's not as described or faulty shouldn't be a problem. Often doing an internet search on reviews of the company can be useful.
I don't know about it affecting shutter speed as I wouldn't want to carry on using a camera that had that fault, as what you are hearing is the sound of friction between surfaces, and wear will be occurring because of that, so I'd want it fixing ASAP.
Which part of the country are you in, as that might help people suggest somewhere local - it's always nice to be able to see and try before you buy? However, if you buy from a well-established and reputable dealer then returning an item if it's not as described or faulty shouldn't be a problem. Often doing an internet search on reviews of the company can be useful.
I don't know about it affecting shutter speed as I wouldn't want to carry on using a camera that had that fault, as what you are hearing is the sound of friction between surfaces, and wear will be occurring because of that, so I'd want it fixing ASAP.
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Thank you for the replies, I live in Southampton and think there is a London camera exchange (not too sure as I don't venture in to town often). I'll do a search and see what that brings up.
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I think they may be able to get cameras sent over from another branch for you to look at, so it might be worth asking if this is so, then keep your eyes peeled on their stock? That's the good thing about the A1, there are quite a few of them about so you shouldn't have to wait too long for a good one to turn up, which means you can afford to be picky as long as your enthusiasm to own one doesn't get the better of you!
I think they may be able to get cameras sent over from another branch for you to look at, so it might be worth asking if this is so, then keep your eyes peeled on their stock? That's the good thing about the A1, there are quite a few of them about so you shouldn't have to wait too long for a good one to turn up, which means you can afford to be picky as long as your enthusiasm to own one doesn't get the better of you!
I've just had a quick butchers on the London Camera Exchange website and they have a Canon AE-1 with 50mm f/1.8 lens, is the AE-1 the same as the A-1 that has been suggested? Thank you for your time.
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@Woodsy lives down that way so he may be able to let you know if there are used camera shops in the area.
Mr Badger
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No, the AE1 is a different (and quite a bit cheaper when new) and less advanced model. The AE1 is a shutter priority camera, which means the photographer sets the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture according to what the built-in light meter tells it (or it can be used in full manual). It's a much more simple camera and doesn't have quite the same build-quality the A1 has (as you'd expect with a less expensive model).
With the A1 you can choose either the shutter speed or the aperture and the camera will select the other, or put it in 'P' (programme mode) and it will choose both (fully automatic exposure), or use it in full manual and choose both yourself. So it's much more versatile. The following two reviews should give you a good insight into the A1: https://www.casualphotophile.com/2015/04/20/canon-a-1-camera-review/ and http://lewiscollard.com/cameras/canon-a-1/
So take your time, read up on any cameras you are thinking about. draw up a short list and feel free to ask on here before you finally buy. Most of all, don't rush in, there's lots to choose from so take your time and find the right one for you.
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Why do you want an SLR for street photography? I would recommend a fixed lens rangefinder such as a Voigtlander CLR which will cost around £30 including postage from EBay.
These cameras are smaller and more discrete. Anyone spotting you using it is likely to be more interested in the camera than the fact you are photographing them. They are light and almost silent in use.
These cameras are smaller and more discrete. Anyone spotting you using it is likely to be more interested in the camera than the fact you are photographing them. They are light and almost silent in use.
Mr Badger
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I can see your point John, but the Voigtlander CLR won't give as sharp an image as a Canon A1 SLR with a good Canon 50mm lens, plus it's nowhere near as versatile as its a fixed lens camera with full manual shutter and aperture settings. Great until you get a day of patchy cloud and sunny intervals, which can drive a person mad changing the exposure settings every couple of minutes to cope with the changing light conditions! I know that's what people used back in the day, and I've done some street stuff with a Voigtlander Vito BL and a Kodak Retinette 1B, but given a 'one camera choice' between those and a 5 mode 35mm SLR with interchangeable lenses then there's no comparison.
Which is an autofocus and auto exposure point and shoot, which would make more sense as a street photography camera for ease of use, but the OP wanted a manual focus 35mm SLR.
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To be honest, I don't think there's much down my way; I rarely venture into the city center either to be honest. A google will reveal more info than I have to offer as I do essentially all of my shopping online!
You could try Parkers ( http://www.parkers-photo.com/ ) in Southampton. Winchester has an LCE, but it's small and doesn't have a huge stock of second hand equipment. Arundel Photographica however are stocked floor to ceiling with cameras under £150, if you can bring yourself to make the 2 hour round trip I'd say it's worth a visit.
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Anyway, My advice above all else, is that you get your hands on a few cameras and see how they feel for you. My experience is that, no matter how capable or incapable the camera for a given situation, the handling of the camera is the most fundamental aspect. If you don't like the way it feels, it won't matter how perfect the technical specifications are for your situation, you likely won't enjoy using it.
simon ess
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but the OP wanted a manual focus 35mm SLR.
An awareness of the alternatives for that specific genre can't be a bad thing.
Mainly because of the versatility and I want to be able to set my aperture and shutter speeds manually to get different exposures and also for nostalgic purposes as my dad used to use a 35mm slr and got great results with some of his shots.
No, the AE1 is a different (and quite a bit cheaper when new) and less advanced model. The AE1 is a shutter priority camera, which means the photographer sets the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture according to what the built-in light meter tells it (or it can be used in full manual). It's a much more simple camera and doesn't have quite the same build-quality the A1 has (as you'd expect with a less expensive model).
With the A1 you can choose either the shutter speed or the aperture and the camera will select the other, or put it in 'P' (programme mode) and it will choose both (fully automatic exposure), or use it in full manual and choose both yourself. So it's much more versatile. The following two reviews should give you a good insight into the A1: https://www.casualphotophile.com/2015/04/20/canon-a-1-camera-review/ and http://lewiscollard.com/cameras/canon-a-1/
So take your time, read up on any cameras you are thinking about. draw up a short list and feel free to ask on here before you finally buy. Most of all, don't rush in, there's lots to choose from so take your time and find the right one for you.
Fantastic advice, thank you. I'll take my time and read a few reviews and do a bit of searching.
Thank you for your reply, I'll check out your recommendations. I like the sound of Arundel Photographica, I'll see if I can make it there some time.
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See if you can find an Olympus OM2SP while you're doing your research.
Fantastic camera back in the day - bullet-proof build quality, IMO and coupled with the Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 is a killer combination. Very-much a competitor to the Canon A1, but slightly smaller body IIRC.
Fantastic camera back in the day - bullet-proof build quality, IMO and coupled with the Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 is a killer combination. Very-much a competitor to the Canon A1, but slightly smaller body IIRC.
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I had one which consumed a lot of batteries fast
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I had one which consumed a lot of batteries fast
The problem with the OM2SP battery issue is similar to the OM40. As they have no off switch to get round this set it to manual and the shutter speed to B and it turns all the electronic off, I went through quite a few batteries before I found this out.
It could be argued that technical image quality isn't a primary consideration for street photography. I certainly wouldn't discount something like the Voigtlander just because another camera has a sharper lens.
I've never had a problem with using a fully manual camera for street in changeable conditions. If I meter at all, I do so at the start - meter for sunny, cloudy and shade, then adjust settings on the fly as needed. Fast B&W film like Tri-X has plenty of latitude to take care of any remaining exposure error.
The XA2 is zone focus.
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It could be argued that technical image quality isn't a primary consideration for many types of photography; providing the image is suited to the 'look' or strong enough to cope with a lack 'technical image quality', however, lens sharpness isn't something that can be added if it's not there to start with and I've been a bit disappointed with the lens on my Voigtlander Vito BL and I'm led to believe that lens quality didn't improve with the C series (if I remember correctly?). To be honest, I prefer the performance of the Kodak Retinette 1b, both in terms of the meter display in the viewfinder and the image quality. However, as we know, cameras can vary between models, so someone else's experience could be different. I do prefer the look of the Vito B series and they seem to be built very solidly. Anyway, it's somewhat academic as the OP has twice stated he wants a 35mm SLR. Mind you, if he's anything like a lot of us on here he'll end up with more than one film camera so may well be glad of the alternative advice and suggestions later on.
As for the changing of setting on the fly, then fine if you don't mind the work (and can remember to do it, if you're just starting out with film and street), but why not let the camera do the work if it makes a good job of it? Yep, the XA2 is manual zone focus, so something else to remember!
As for the changing of setting on the fly, then fine if you don't mind the work (and can remember to do it, if you're just starting out with film and street), but why not let the camera do the work if it makes a good job of it? Yep, the XA2 is manual zone focus, so something else to remember!
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Definitely consider olympus xa or xa2 for street shooting. Both offer remarkably good image quality and are truly pocketable and discrete.
Xa is far more flexible as its aperture priority and the lens a stop faster than xa2, but difficult manual focus. That said it can easily be used in zone focusing mode if you memorize 3 aperture/distance combinations. And it gives you the precise focusing when you need it. Rf patch can be brightened up by sticking a bit of blue scotch on the viewfinder window. It took me a while to get used to it, but now it's my goto camera.
For Slr don't overlook pentax system. Very cheap, good lenses. I have a miranda ms1 super with 50mm 1.8, which comes with pentax mount and shutter all the way to 1/2000. Picked them up for £10 delivered off ebay. It does everything I need and nothing I don't. Yes, it's fully manual but there is a decoupled meter to help you, which I don't use anyway as I like to use my judgement.
Enjoy. Film photography is so much more fun then digital. I now use my Sony a7ii mostly to digitise my films
Xa is far more flexible as its aperture priority and the lens a stop faster than xa2, but difficult manual focus. That said it can easily be used in zone focusing mode if you memorize 3 aperture/distance combinations. And it gives you the precise focusing when you need it. Rf patch can be brightened up by sticking a bit of blue scotch on the viewfinder window. It took me a while to get used to it, but now it's my goto camera.
For Slr don't overlook pentax system. Very cheap, good lenses. I have a miranda ms1 super with 50mm 1.8, which comes with pentax mount and shutter all the way to 1/2000. Picked them up for £10 delivered off ebay. It does everything I need and nothing I don't. Yes, it's fully manual but there is a decoupled meter to help you, which I don't use anyway as I like to use my judgement.
Enjoy. Film photography is so much more fun then digital. I now use my Sony a7ii mostly to digitise my films
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ChrisR
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I dunno, how can everyone be so wrong? For £150 get yourself a Pentax MX with a Pentax-M 50/1.4 and you have an unbeatable manual focus SLR combo!
PS, not sure anyone else asked, but what else do you shoot with? Lens compatibility can be an influence...
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Which is precisely what you get with a Voigtlander CLR. The shutter is a Prontor leaf shutter with aperture and speed rings. Manual focus is very fast - faster than a manual focus SLR. The exposure meter is not TTL but my technique us to set the exposure as I start and check every 30 minutes. Film has great exposure latitude and +/- one stop is neither here nor there. The lens is a Color-Skopar which is a copy of a Carl Zeiss Tessar which is one of the best lenses ever designed. It will not give you boring clinic perfection like a modern computer designed lens will but will have much more character.
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@Craigus has a Nikon FM for £100 ono with a 50mm lens in the classifieds under the For Sale or swap in the film section which would be perfect - always good to buy from fellow members here IMO. Not sure if you can access the classifieds hence I've put his 'tag' at the start of this post. The Nikon FM is a fantastic all manual (no electronics) reliable camera.
Fraser Euan White
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Limit the number of choices by going 6x6 and buy a Rolleiflex
mmmmmmmm a 6 x 6 Rolleiflex for £150 - I wish
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If you know the brand or even the model it might be fun to get the same.
Mr Badger
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Unless it happens to be one of the makes/models of camera that didn't age well and suffers from reliability problems.
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