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Ian Wright
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I could not turn it down at £795 though!
I could not turn it down at £795 though!
OP
Ian Wright
Guest
I can only hope you had a bad one Richard.
All you need now is a lightweight step ladder to carry around and you could use it at full height
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Neotecs are all like that. Purchased on-line (unseen) I'm afraid. I now have a Gitzo for out and about (with Arca-Swiss P0 ball head) and a big Benro (M'rotto 405 geared) for studio. Anyone that does a lot of tripod work usually ends up with a Gitzo
I also think that the head is at least as important as the legs. It's the main user-interface, the bit you actually work with, and a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
OP
Ian Wright
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Good idea Charles and perhaps a butler to carry it all
I will be using a Gimbal so shouldn't need a ball head should I?
I will be using a Gimbal so shouldn't need a ball head should I?
I got similar gear to yours (nikon and Tamron 150-600) and the manfrotto gimbal on a 055 manfrotto. Still to be convinced the combination works (including the person behind the camera). I would not bother with a ball head for a long lens. You will spend your time trying to balance things and clicking for a photo will become irrelevant. I have tried the 150-600 on an old/current model large 3 way head ... the head felt as heavy as the tripod I gave up (and setting up was a waste of time). If you want to photograph anything that may just appear gimbal is the way to go. I have done kind of still life using the manfrotto head and it seemed to have worked (at 600mm) but when I hold the camera to point and shoot - I mean put my hands on the camera whilst on the head - errrmmm (I must have the shakes).
If you use shorter lenses then 3 way, 3 way geared, or (large) ball head with good friction would be the way to go. There are cheap, expensive, light and heavy and a lot of potential cr@p. I am only familiar with manfrotto stuff (I got 4-5 heads) but still have not got any photos worth bothering with
If you use shorter lenses then 3 way, 3 way geared, or (large) ball head with good friction would be the way to go. There are cheap, expensive, light and heavy and a lot of potential cr@p. I am only familiar with manfrotto stuff (I got 4-5 heads) but still have not got any photos worth bothering with
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Neotecs are all like that. Purchased on-line (unseen) I'm afraid. I now have a Gitzo for out and about (with Arca-Swiss P0 ball head) and a big Benro (M'rotto 405 geared) for studio. Anyone that does a lot of tripod work usually ends up with a Gitzo
I also think that the head is at least as important as the legs. It's the main user-interface, the bit you actually work with, and a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
I am afraid to say you are probably correct. I used to think the Mamiya C330f was large and heavy but now I know it wasn't. No zoom lenses, no mirror slap, it was happy on a simple 3 way head. Digital camera, zoom lenses (woo hoo), front heavy (yuk), the next thing I see is the camera flexing where it connects to the mounting plate.
OP
Ian Wright
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I have definitely gone for the "belt & braces" heavy duty option. I have paired the Gitzo GT5543XLS with a Lensmaster RH-2 so should be able to handle any large lens.
Can anyone recommend a decent 105mm UV Filter to go with my Sigma 150-600?
Can anyone recommend a decent 105mm UV Filter to go with my Sigma 150-600?
OP
Ian Wright
Guest
It's a 105mm. The new Sigma UV is around the £159 mark. Don't really know how much I should be spending on one?
OP
Ian Wright
Guest
Blimey, the 105mm is considerably more at £159
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sigma-105mm-Multicoated-Ultra-Violet-Filter/dp/B0001903I4 A lesser sigma at £69.99?
OP
Ian Wright
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Earlier I found that the people who have manfrotto have B+H filters which are Schneider and I had always classed Schneider as a proper manufacturer (who knows now). Some clear B+H filter popped up in the USA for 90+ dollars. I think you have to find anything you can get which won't be that many filters and then decide if it is worth the investment.
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I, personally, would not recommend any filter unless you have a specific need - eg an ND filter (unlikely with this lens.
Any filter you put on you lens will degrade IQ, it may not be noticeable but it will be there! Also you don't need a UV filter with digital - I gave up on them years ago. Save yourself some pennies
OP
Ian Wright
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Thank you for the info john, that is much appreciated.I, personally, would not recommend any filter unless you have a specific need - eg an ND filter (unlikely with this lens.
Any filter you put on you lens will degrade IQ, it may not be noticeable but it will be there! Also you don't need a UV filter with digital - I gave up on them years ago. Save yourself some pennies
Chaz Photos
Jack Elam
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Mine is as strong as you can get as for the legs wrong way up if you understand engineering you understand you always put the strongest part of a support at the bottom, not the top FACT.
I have use mine with a 7D plus battery grip and a 2.8 70-200 and it as solid as you can get.
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The OP is using up to 600mm and no the Neotec is not "as solid as you can get". It is certainly convenient and fast to set up, but it is simply not rigid enough for long lenses and it is heavy too. It is also more expensive than all bar one of my 4 Gitzo tripods and heavier than my Gitzo GT4542LS. My Gitzo GT4542LS is more than up to the job of supporting my Canon 800 F5.6 L IS (Canon/Nikon make nothing longer) and the OP has bought an even better tripod! He will be very happy with his purchase - simply because there is nothing better on the market!
Not a dig at you - I was just trying to put things in perspective.
P.S. The legs are not the wrong way up on the Neotec - they are just right for working in water, like the Benbo tripods, the leg locks stay nice and dry.
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Then you should write to every tripod manufacturer and tell them they've been doing it wrong for the last few decades. Not that I think it makes much difference in practise, but in theory the most rigid tripod design puts the strongest leg sections at the apex where stresses are compounded, mated to fatter pivot joints. The Neotec has to be upside-down to make the quick release leg locks work, and it's in those locks where the rigidity is lost and the weight and cost are added.
Upside-down legs makes no difference to water-proofing, they're hollow tubes like every tripod and it's very easy to water-seal the feet - DIY if needs be. The best tripods for working in water simply have long leg sections to keep the joints above the surface.