Russ, I wouldn't worry about whether your photos are macros or not. This is after all a
Macro and Close-up forum, and in any case there isn't a common agreement as to what "macro" actually means.
Anyway, welcome to the world of small things.
I love photographing flowers. They are perhaps my favourite subjects. A couple of thoughts for you.
You mention a tripod head, but not the tripod. I don't know how you are intending to go about your flower photography. If you are going to pick flowers, bring them indoors, arrange them, perhaps in a light tent, and then photograph them, it may not matter too much what tripod you use. However, if you are planning on photographing flowers in the wild then bear in mind that flowers don't always grow in convenient to photograph places. Depending on where you are they may be difficult to get at, for example because you can't walk into flower borders in a formal garden, or you can't get through the brambles or across the stream or whatever out in the country. You may need to get at a flower from low down, or over the top or around the side of a bush, or through an awkward mess of foliage. In such cases an ordinary tripod may often let you down. There are tripods with greater flexibility, such as arms that can go out horizontally, or at some other angles, and can get your camera near to the ground, or looking down over a bush etc. FWIW, the tripod setup I use is illustrated
here. (I'm not recommending this setup in particular, just illustrating that you do have some options on this front, and possibly some things you need to think about.)
There is also the question of whether to use a tripod all the time, or even at all. I do use a tripod sometimes for flowers. If the air is calm I may set up shots, take my hands away, let the rig settle and use a remote release to take the shot. If you are doing this then you would do well to use mirror lock up, because mirror slap can undo all the good work of letting the camera settle down. Alternatively, and what I do almost all the time, is to use Live View. That way there is no mirror slap. Even if you have the mirror locked up or use live view you can get shutter shock (which my tests have shown, on my kit, to be a genuine issue not a hypothetical one). If you have it available, Electronic First Shutter Curtain eliminates shutter shock, which is what I use with my Canon 70D, which is my preferred camera for photographing flowers. (That is not a recommendation for crop versus full frame, because I have never used a full frame camera.)
Sometimes when I use a tripod I keep my hands on the camera, using what I call a "tripod assisted" approach, but that is more often with invertebrates than flowers. Most often though I work hand-held when photographing flower. That way I can get at really awkward angles, for example shooting one-handed while using the other hand to grab hold of something as I lean over/around some obstacle or out across a pond or stream, or hold back foliage, or when I'm working in portrait orientation with the camera low down towards the ground. And to get the freedom of movement to do all this I almost always use the LCD, and is why I chose the Canon 70D because it has an articulated screen, and it has a live view implementation that actually works quite well. (And I think you have to use live view to get Electronic First Shutter Curtain on the 70D.) If you are going to use the viewfinder then an angle finder will give you a bit more flexibility, but not as much as using an articulated LCD. You can get full frame cameras with hinged LCDs and good live view, such as the Sony A7r or A7s, but bear in mind that compared to an articulated LCD, a hinged screen isn't much good for working in portrait orientation (which of course might or might not be relevant for you).
I find the creative juices flow much better when I work hand-held, but that is a very personal thing. For example some people like the slow, deliberative approach that using a tripod hands-off encourages them to adopt.
There is also the question of what type of lens to use. That may seem obvious - a macro lens. Perhaps, for flowers, one with a good long focal length like a 180mm macro, because that will help throw backgrounds out of focus, and with flowers, if you are working with a tripod, weight may not be so important. As it happens (and again, this is not a recommendation, just to mention that you do have options) I use a telephoto zoom lens (Canon 55-250 STM) when photographing flowers. Being a crop lens it is lighter than a full frame lens, and it is nicely sharp. Using a zoom lens can be beneficial. It can give you some extra reach for difficult to get at subjects, and it can let you get captures in cramped situations where, with a prime lens, you can't step back far enough. You can also play with framing shots differently, back and forth, back and forth, without having to move which, especially when coupled with changing apertures to explore background effects, I find very conducive to creative composition. (I do have a Sigma 105mm macro lens, but I have found that I have no use for it.)
If I want to get a bit closer-in, for smaller flowers, I put a mild achromat on the front of the lens (a Canon 500D close-up lens). Remember too that there are flowers, buds and other botanical nicenesses at smaller scales than the usual flowers one thinks of. For example, at this time of year there are (depending on where you are) tiny things starting to poke their heads up above the ground, and these can make good subjects in areas that you might well walk past because they look like bare earth if you don't take your time to look closely. This sort of botanical subject can even take me beyond 1:1 occasionally.
So, flower photography is, IMO, a fascinating and rewarding field of endeavour. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. I look forward to seeing your flower pictures.
