When not to use IS

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Name
Richard
Edit My Images
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Hi

I am now little confused as to when use IS on my camera. I know that you should turn it off when mounted on a tripod as this makes complete sense but I have read recently (though I cant remeber where) that you shouldnt use IS when panning an object. I have been to a few airshows and have been advised to leave IS on. My results have been quite mixed between soft and sharp shots, I've always put this down to experience and technique. Im now wondering if some of my softer shots could be due to having IS turned on.

Any advice on this would be apprciated.

Thanks

Rich
 
Yes, IS-2 mode for panning should be fine for planes - nice predicatble movement in one direction. But for erratically moving subjects, like birds in flight maybe, that can confuse the IS and it may even work against you.

Two options: keep your shutter speed well up and switch off IS. Or use a monopod - excellent stabilisation at all times and takes all the weight too :thumbs:
 
If you can keep your SS above focal length, IS is not really needed anyway I.e if your at 200mm and your SS is 1/250, IS not needed as your shutter speed is fast enough not to pick up camera shake.

Main thing to keep in the back of your mind is Millions of photos were taken before IS came along
 
If you can keep your SS above focal length, IS is not really needed anyway I.e if your at 200mm and your SS is 1/250, IS not needed as your shutter speed is fast enough not to pick up camera shake.

Main thing to keep in the back of your mind is Millions of photos were taken before IS came along

To ensure sharp images you should also multiply your focal length by your crop multiplier, so on my 7D I would need a minimum of 1/320th at 200mm.

Some folk can go lower, but the rule of thumb does need to take crop into account :)
 
Some folk can go lower, but the rule of thumb does need to take crop into account :)

Only in theory. the 1/FL rule is a rough rule of thumb and is, in itself, wildly inaccurate for most people. The variation from person to person is often a factor of 8 or more (I can easily shoot 2/FL on an APS-C, my friend needs 1/4xFL on an APS-H). With such a huge natural variation whether or not you add a factor of 1.6 is irrelevant.

Each person should experiment to find their own limitiations on handholding. And you should experiment on different days - that way you'll find that your own variation is probably a factor of 2, or more. Try with different lenses and you'll probably find it's even more variable than that.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Makes much more sense now :thumbs:

One thing though, if my shutter speed is higher than my focal length, say 500th sec on 200m lens and I have IS mode 2 available should I leave it on or turn it off for general panning shot. Im assuming from the above advice that this is unlikely to make much difference.

Hope that makes sense.

Rich
 
Any time you have a fast ss you dont need is. For panning you generally have a slowish ss so either turn it off or use mode 2. Is is really useful for hand held slow ss when you dont have a tripod
 
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IS/VR, whatever your lenses call it can eat into battery charge, so, if you're finding yourself a bit flat before you're expecting it, turn it off unless you need it. If it's bright enough to keep above the suggested handholding speed, chances are it'll stay so, so you can leave IS off until it gets darker. Keep an eye on shutter speed and turn IS back on if/when the light gets too low.

Panning? Depends on the lens, so read its manual/instruction sheet. I know my Nikkor 70-300 VR allows panning in both modes but other lenses probably require switching so they don't try to correct the panning motion. All comes down to practice too; you very possibly find that pans from the end of a day's shooting are better than those from the morning - I know mine are!

Generally, when tripod mounted, IS is not needed, so even if your IS lens automatically detects tripod use, switch it off (unless your tripod is a super cheapy...)
 
Ive found that when i'm zoomed in fully the is helps visibly stabilise the image so I can actually get the focus point still on the subject. This is especially true when photographing air shows at a distance.
 
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