Which basic kit to consider buying

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Name
Richard
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Morning folks,
I'm thinking of buying a basic 'entry level' lighting kit. I have no studio, just the rooms in my house to use as a temporary measure. I'm looking to take some full body portrait photos & as I've never used proper studio lighting before, I'm wondering if the links provided below will light up the subject(s) well enough:thinking:

I've been looking on Ebay, backdropsource & other various sites for basic continious lighting kits, but as I'm a newbie to using lighting, I'm getting a bit confused:shake::thinking:

Here are the kits that I've been looking at:
http://www.backdropsource.co.uk/Pro...0-watt-continuous-lighting-kit-with-umbrellas

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=140256447191&_fvi=1

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=140255966731&_fvi=1

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=280255114133&_fvi=1

Can anyone point/shove me in the right direction? I don't want to buy something that's going to be totally useless:bang:

I should really buy myself a 'basic guide book' on studio lighting. Any pointers:help:

Many, many thanks in advance for your help & advice:D.

Richard
 
Please don't even consider ANY continuous light source. Flash is the way to go, for various reasons. A couple of posts or so down, you'll see a thread (mine) titled 'Basic Lighting Guides'. Click on the links, I'm sure you'll find them helpful and I'm also sure that you'll then forget about continuous lighting.

As for guides to studio lighting (and using it) I've written several, and there are videos too. you can find them here
 
The main reasons not to use continuous lighting is that it generates a lot of heat which causes models to persire but also your eyes contract to adjust to the continuous lights, whereas the flash is so sudden and the modelling lights quite dim that they don't contract.
 
Ok thanks for the helpful tips. So if flash lighting is the way to go, which beginners kit should I get? I've seen a few Jessops kits on Ebay:thinking:

Rich
 
Jessops Portaflash are very much entry level and some people seem to be happy with them, but you can do a lot better without spending a fortune.

The makes I'm happy to recommend are Elinchrom, Bowens and Lencarta
 
I'm looking myself for a starter studio kit so would like to hear peoples comments and recommendations on this one.

Cheers
 
Bowens 200 or 250 kits are very good value for money. If you want to spend a little bit more then go for the 500's. In the kit you get 2 heads, 2 umbrellas, 2 stands and a nice bag to carry it all in.

Dave
 
What do you mean take them, how can I take them and be in them.... I wish :crying:

No they were taken by a friend, although I can't imagine why he didn't ask me to do the modelling :bat:.

Mel :love:
 
What do you mean take them, how can I take them and be in them.... I wish :crying:

No they were taken by a friend, although I can't imagine why he didn't ask me to do the modelling :bat:.

Mel :love:

Aww im sure he would have asked you if he hadnt already booked the models and paid for them....Your name is down for the next one ;) haha
 
I was looking at the Interfit kit but was really torn between 150s and the 300s, I just don't want to buy something then wish it'd got a bit more ooomph! I'd either get a dual 300 or a triple 150 for the budget....
 
If you have the budget, the triple 150 set is a great set, and improves on the 2 head setup for a number of reasons.

1. It comes with a case.
2. It comes with a backdrop
3. It has 3 heads, so you can light the backdrop, and still have 2 heads for the subject.

If I had the choice to make, I'd go for the 3 head 150 set.
 
If you have the budget, the triple 150 set is a great set, and improves on the 2 head setup for a number of reasons.

1. It comes with a case.
2. It comes with a backdrop
3. It has 3 heads, so you can light the backdrop, and still have 2 heads for the subject.

If I had the choice to make, I'd go for the 3 head 150 set.

Thanks Goatee. So you think that 150 has what it takes? With a GN of 30 I should be able to shoot at F8 (ISO100) from 3.75 metres away but I'm always a bit weary of manufacturers GNs.

I'm not planning to shoot cars or anything that requires massive coverage, or even from more than 8 feet away from the subject.

To be honest lately I'm erring more towards the darker scenes anyway, but I'd like to be able to whip out a 'venture' stylee shoot now and then if my friends want to capture their kids growing up or something. (As mentioned this is where 3 heads would be great.)
 
Yup - I think it would be fine - I shoot at f/11 or f/12 from 6 foot away or so. With that, I've shot a group of around 15 people, with no problems.

Thanks Goatee. So you think that 150 has what it takes? With a GN of 30 I should be able to shoot at F8 (ISO100) from 3.75 metres away but I'm always a bit weary of manufacturers GNs.

I'm not planning to shoot cars or anything that requires massive coverage, or even from more than 8 feet away from the subject.

To be honest lately I'm erring more towards the darker scenes anyway, but I'd like to be able to whip out a 'venture' stylee shoot now and then if my friends want to capture their kids growing up or something. (As mentioned this is where 3 heads would be great.)
 
Groovy beans, cheers Goatee. Now the real choice I have is Stella vs Venus. The Venus kits are a great deal cheaper for the same power, so I've got to have a delve and understand what I'd be missing if I went for the cheaper option.
 
No worries Kalibre - glad to be able to help! Can I ask why not the EX 150 3 head kit?
 
No worries Kalibre - glad to be able to help! Can I ask why not the EX 150 3 head kit?

Thought you'd ask that. ;)

I haven't really checked them out if I'm honest, but the opening description on most sites seems to be:

"Ideal for beginners and first time users"

then the interfit page had a section called:

"What do all the buttons do?"

That makes me gringe........ :cautious:

It's my normal techie knee-jerk reaction to skip anything entree level, something my wife doesn't share.......

Going to check them out now. :)
 
If you can find somewhere to try them out, I really would urge you to. The only thing which may vary, is I believe the mounts are different (on the EX and DX lights, it's an Elinchrom mount, and on the others it's Bowen I think), which could mean that there are more or less light modifiers for the different light series - I don't need anything other than what I have for now - and should I want a snoot / honeycomb, I think I can get them, and if not, I'll add a manual power flashgun with a modifier on. If that aint enough, then I'll sell up, and get a new set of lights (probably an Elinchrom D-Lite set).
 
I haven't bought anything from them, but I have exchanged emails with Neil there, and found him to be friendly and knowledgable about their kit. Generally, lights are cheaper for some of a number of reasons.

1. Smaller power range - this goes down to 1/8 power - that may not be low enough.
2. Non stepless adjustment - though these lights do have stepless adjustments
3. Build quality
4. Consistency - both of light levels output, and colour.
5. Speed of recycle.
6. Range of compatible accessories - possibility to expand in the future.

If I hadn't got the Interfits, I think I'd have got that kit - but email them - Neil's a nice guy, and I'm hoping to get a background support from him.
 
Thanks for helping ! I was also looking at the Interfit 150 3-head. Which would you imagine might be a better option ? The Stable imaging 3-head set or the Interfit ?

Great answer btw , very very helpful, much appreciated
 
Glad to help :D. I'm happy with the Interfits, but. . . the Stable imaging set is still quite tempting. I would have thought that the Interfits are more solid, and built to a higher standard, though Neil imports his kit directly, so it could be cheaper simply because he's cutting out the middle man. For light use, I'd have thought that the Stable imaging kit would be ok, and checking out his eBay store, he has over 300 transactions with 100% positive feedback. Whichever kit you go for - let us know :D.
 
http://www.stableimaging.co.uk/stud...ting-kit/prod_14.html?review=read#read_review

looks very cheap ?

could some wise sage ( anyone other than me will do ) tell me why that might be ?

cheers !!

It's very good value for money.
Having said that, you need to be aware of its limitations...

Firstly, it's a generic kit, with pretty much the same item produced by a number of different manufacturers who are export only (only the best manufacturers produce kit good enough to attract a Chinese market). They tend to be made down to a price, not up to a quality standard.

You may find it difficult if not impossible to get repairs done.

The reflectors are fixed. Interchangeable reflectors are much better because they allow a much wider range of accessories to be used, and the accessories work better if the reflectors can be changed/removed.

The reflectors are highly efficient, which artificially boosts the power output and because of this the light is very harsh.

The modelling lamps are only 50 watt, this is useless, especially when used with umbrellas or softboxes.

The adjustment range is only 3 stops, which is inadequate. You'll need to add neutral density filters to reduce the power sometimes.

BTW, I may be an old cynic but I just don't believe the glowing testimonials. I've never met a pro fashion photographer who would use this kind of kit, or who would take a new, untried kit to a shoot. It just doesn't happen.

But, as I said earlier, it's cheap.
 
Forgot to mention, the other big problem with this type of light is that the colour temperature is often very inconsistent, and so is the power output. This is a major problem at the cheaper end of the market. Of course, I'm not in a position to say whether or not these particular lights have that problem.
 
thanks gary , i thought the testimonials were hilarious myself , you can always spot them. OK , that's great , for half the price of the interfits I can't expect too much. Very detailed and helpful info. I'll be ordering a set today , so will report back here next week what I made of Neil's gear.

Thanks everyone, just brilliant forum

John
 
Garry raises some valid points which shouldn't be totally discounted. I would disagree with the 3 stop range being such an issue - my lights also only have a 3 stop range, and I've never had to turn them right down. Also, whilst the light may be a bit harsher, using shoot through brollies, or softboxes will soften it nicely.

50W modelling lights may be too dim to be of much use, and it would be worth checking colour and light level consistency between shots - on the interfits, it's excellent.
 
well i was going to use shoot through brollies so I think I'll get this set and see how i go, can't argue with the price , just hope everything works !
 
Good luck, keep us updated, and post some shots :D.
 
I wanted a shoot-through white brolly really , where would you recommend I get one ?

Last question for now, what's a better use of my 3 lights for the kind of shot you saw in the link - 2 lights front left ( reflector to left of model/wife )1 light on the background ,
or 1 front 2 back either side ?

I also have a flash gun which will be redundant I hope , or would you utilise that too ? if I've strayed off topic please say and I'll go elsewhere !

Cheers
 
I have the Stable Imaging kit and think it's great. I also have a couple of friends who agree. With regards repairs Neil seems like a nice bloke and when I managed to break one of my modelling bulbs ... don't ask... sent me a couple free inc postage. You don't get better. I have seen simular cheap kits that don't come close in quality. One friend had one from Mr Studio or something where they had higher modelling lights but he regretted that as his lamp melt out of shape. If you have the money go for the Bowens if you want to start out cheap get the Stable Imaging, plenty to learn with and at a cost that if you want to move up later in life you haven't broke the bank. That said if anyone wants me to do some tests.. and tells me how I am more than willing. I have a light meter if that helps?

Mel :love:
 
I don't know what this proves but it gave me a chance to play with my light meter. I know there is a certain amount of rounding goes on to get the f-stop but at 5ft from the strobe at full power ISO 100 1/160 and taking 20 readings without moving they all gave f16. So I imagine this shows consistancy.

Lessons learnt:
1. Do not look towards the flash and expect to be able to read the numbers
2. Allow the flash to recharge between readings (At first I thought the lamps were dying getting lower and lower as I repeatadly triggered the light meter without waiting :wacky:)

But how can I measure colour temp (without buying a meter) is there a way to use the custom white balance of the camera?
 
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