Which film stock would you recommend for the snow…?

Jakemico AE-1P

Jakemico AE-1P

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The wife & I wanted to go somewhere snowy this year. I voted for Svalbard to see the glaciers, ice bergs, polar bears and whales. She voted for Lapland.

As it was a tie, and we’re married, we’re going to Norwegian Lapland.

I’ll be taking my M3 and maybe FM3a but wonder what people’s recommendations are for shooting snowy scenes.

Black and white - I’ve got tmax, ilford and Kodak XX to burn through.

Colour - what deals with the whites best without getting blown out?

Also - should I take a filter for the B&W to help add some contrast?
I’d assumed a polariser to help darken the skies.

Thoughts, experiences, examples all welcome!
 
Mostly you can shoot what feels right for the scene, your key is getting your meter reading. Last time I shot in snow I was using Kodak Ektar, its what I had, I metered on a wet granite wall that was in full sunshine, worked well as a 50% grey and I am very happy with the exposures I got.

No harm in having a exposure card for taking your meter readings off
 
Karl.t1965 said:
Example, kodak ektar, metered to a local greyView attachment 412562
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Indeed..... point your camera for a reading (in the same light) at something grey or even clear blue sky or if possible green grass as it's nearly the same as incident light reading. The logic is:- taking a reading from something equivalent to a Kodak grey card (in the same light).
 
If you are using B&W I would go for a middle of the road film (FP4+) and if using a camera meter over expose and under develop to keep the highlights within reasonable limits. If you use a seperate meter with incident light measurement then you can use it at the standard setting.
 
Skylight is blue, therefore shadows are. From which it follows that a yellow filter will increase contrast in the snow making the texture more obvious.
 
Karl.t1965 said:
Mostly you can shoot what feels right for the scene, your key is getting your meter reading. Last time I shot in snow I was using Kodak Ektar, its what I had, I metered on a wet granite wall that was in full sunshine, worked well as a 50% grey and I am very happy with the exposures I got.

No harm in having a exposure card for taking your meter readings off
Click to expand...
Actually should it not be 18% grey, not 50%, or was the question in my exam paper incorrect all those years ago.

I have just pulled this off the web:-

Why is a grey card 18 percent?
The card's main focus is lighting and setting up proper exposure. The short answer to why we use 18% Grey is simply this, if the light in an average scene being photographed is averaged out, it will produce an 18% grey tone (neutral).

I also remember that the lecturer also told us that there is no need to buy a grey card, the inside of a cornflake box is close enough.
 
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I've shot HP5 and XX in snow and wasn't happy with the results. I like my snowy scenes white and pristine and the usual character of those films doesn't work for me. Your mileage may of course vary!

I'd probably use something like TMAX100, or Ilford Delta 100. The T grain films are cleaner which gives (IMO) a better look to snowy scenes.

As always, it's down to taste...
 
Rodinal said:
Actually should it not be 18% grey, not 50%, or was the question in my exam paper incorrect all those years ago.

I have just pulled this off the web:-

Why is a grey card 18 percent?
The card's main focus is lighting and setting up proper exposure. The short answer to why we use 18% Grey is simply this, if the light in an average scene being photographed is averaged out, it will produce an 18% grey tone (neutral).

I also remember that the lecturer also told us that there is no need to buy a grey card, the inside of a cornflake box is close enough.
Click to expand...

It was incorrect. See Ctein's Post Exposure for the reason. Somewhere on t'internet I seem to recall there's a page about the myth of 18% grey.
 
StephenM said:
It was incorrect. See Ctein's Post Exposure for the reason. Somewhere on t'internet I seem to recall there's a page about the myth of 18% grey.
Click to expand...

Interesting, it was called 18% grey, but I'm happy to accept understanding has moved on.
 
Ctein explains the difficulty in getting the information directly from light meter manufacturers, but goes through the maths from data they do release to show that meters are calibrated at 12%. I have a vague recollection that it was Ansel Adams who pushed Kodak to 18%, which is why Kodak say to hold the card at 45 degrees to the light (to drop the figure to the correct value...).

I anticipate disagreement to this, but I'm not inclined to go further to justify it.
 
StephenM said:
Ctein explains the difficulty in getting the information directly from light meter manufacturers, but goes through the maths from data they do release to show that meters are calibrated at 12%. I have a vague recollection that it was Ansel Adams who pushed Kodak to 18%, which is why Kodak say to hold the card at 45 degrees to the light (to drop the figure to the correct value...).

I anticipate disagreement to this, but I'm not inclined to go further to justify it.
Click to expand...

I don't think you need to justify it at all. There's always been a bit of smoke and mirrors to film work, and this is just another bit. In the end, we all do what we do to get what we want.
 
StephenM said:
It was incorrect. See Ctein's Post Exposure for the reason. Somewhere on t'internet I seem to recall there's a page about the myth of 18% grey.
Click to expand...
In which case are grey cards still sold as 18% grey - or are they wrong also?. I think you are possibly badly miss-informed.
 
StephenM said:
It was incorrect. See Ctein's Post Exposure for the reason. Somewhere on t'internet I seem to recall there's a page about the myth of 18% grey.
Click to expand...
Oh yes if it is on the internet, I forgot it is bound to be correct.!
 
I never denied that 18% grey cards reflected 18%. My point was that light meters are calibrated to make 12% a true mid tone, and that is why Kodak say to use them at 45 degrees so the meter reads 12%.

If you doubt this, by all means explain the errors of fact (which Ctein obtained from the meter makers) and/or the error in his calculation.

I don't believe t'internet either, but I (mistakenly, clearly) thought that saying the information, probably in a fuller form, could be found there might encourage research, as Ctein's book would be a harder source to consult.

I've learned my lesson. In future I won't explain or give reasons, just make a bald assertion. It will save me effort, and still give the same result.

And with that :exit:
 
StephenM said:
I never denied that 18% grey cards reflected 18%. My point was that light meters are calibrated to make 12% a true mid tone, and that is why Kodak say to use them at 45 degrees so the meter reads 12%.

If you doubt this, by all means explain the errors of fact (which Ctein obtained from the meter makers) and/or the error in his calculation.

I don't believe t'internet either, but I (mistakenly, clearly) thought that saying the information, probably in a fuller form, could be found there might encourage research, as Ctein's book would be a harder source to consult.

I've learned my lesson. In future I won't explain or give reasons, just make a bald assertion. It will save me effort, and still give the same result.

And with that :exit:
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Actually I am not really interested! I take photographs for my own use and pleasure and I know what works for me. So if anyone else wishes to go around quoting minutia which may or may not work good luck to them. I will continue as I have done since 1963. Thank you!
 
StephenM said:
I never denied that 18% grey cards reflected 18%. My point was that light meters are calibrated to make 12% a true mid tone, and that is why Kodak say to use them at 45 degrees so the meter reads 12%.
Click to expand...
Oh well I thought film all camera meters were calibrated for 18% as standard but digi cameras for 12%.
 
soupdragon said:
This guy seems to use Ektar with a warming filter.

www.alexburkephoto.com

Kodak E100 - Pushing the Limits of Slide Film — Alex Burke Photography

Learn how to get the most out of the new Kodak E100 Ektachrome slide film. See examples and find out the best way to expose this film.
www.alexburkephoto.com www.alexburkephoto.com
Click to expand...
Kodak E100 is a slide film that was known as Ektachrome Tony, Ektar is a more modern ISO 100 colour negative film. I used E100 back in the film only days and it always had a tendancy towards Blue so a warming filter (81 A or B IIRC) was necessary to get the colour temp corect in snow, however a colour neg film such as Gold or the Portra of the day didn't usually need one just careful exposure.
 
Topsy said:
Kodak E100 is a slide film that was known as Ektachrome Tony, Ektar is a more modern ISO 100 colour negative film. I used E100 back in the film only days and it always had a tendancy towards Blue so a warming filter (81 A or B IIRC) was necessary to get the colour temp corect in snow, however a colour neg film such as Gold or the Portra of the day didn't usually need one just careful exposure.
Click to expand...
Yep, misread that.
 
Whenever I've been skiing I've set the camera to half the box ISO and that's worked well for me.
If you have the inclination and a suitable meter an incident reading would be best.
I've never used B+W when skiing, I have used slide film.
 
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