Wild life photography

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Harvey
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Having got myself a nice set of camoflage clothing and a ghilli suit i`m wondering what people use to entice the wild life nearer to them? For birds seed is my thinking but what about deer? Would you place food in a certain spot for a while prior to going to the site to take your shots? Your suggestions would be most welcome.
 
Hi,
My advice would be to set up a feeding station. If your trying for birds, set up some perches, drill some holes and fill with suet, scatter some sunflower hearts etc.
Research on the web will tell you the best food to attract most other things.

What you MUST do is be consistent. Go everyday at around the same time and replenish. You'll be surprised how quickly they become used to a routine, especially coming winter.

Give it a couple of weeks (you can watch from a distance) and gradually move closer. A hide is a good investment. Remember, you tend to get out of it what you put into it!

Best of luck!!
Regards

John
 
John Above gave some good advise, But it's not what i would suggest you do.

Dont drill holes in tree's, if you do, make sure there not too deep. You can cause the tree to get an infection, or alternatively,do it in a nature park you might be asked to leave and not come back.
Don't leave alot of bait out either, bury/hide some so the deer/animals have to forage for it. It's really easy, especially at winter when it's been snowing, to change the animals natural routine for something a little easier to come by.
All in all, my suggestion is simply stay low,be quiet,be down wind,and dont shower or clean the clothes you use to hunt in(effectively what your doing) as perfume from soap/shower gel/washing soap is really strong in the wild and having dirt of the surrounding area's will help mask your scent. If you want to get closer, Commando crawl slowly a foot at a time stopping after every pull to make sure the animals haven't noticed you.

Alternatively, build/buy a hide and get there before light break's so animals dont/birds dont see you. a little tip i've learned from a friend of mine, is that birds can't count, if they see 2 people go into a hide and one leave, they will think the hide is empty. so if you can, take a friend/family member with you if you set up the hide the day before.

But anyhow, good luck!
 
When it comes to Deer, time and patience, birds the same and a fast frame rate with a flash that can keep up

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Strobe flash

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Having got myself a nice set of camoflage clothing and a ghilli suit i`m wondering what people use to entice the wild life nearer to them? For birds seed is my thinking but what about deer? Would you place food in a certain spot for a while prior to going to the site to take your shots? Your suggestions would be most welcome.

Oh and I hate camo clothing personally, I want to be comfortable and warm.

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Hi,
My advice would be to set up a feeding station. If your trying for birds, set up some perches, drill some holes and fill with suet, scatter some sunflower hearts etc.
Research on the web will tell you the best food to attract most other things.

What you MUST do is be consistent. Go everyday at around the same time and replenish. You'll be surprised how quickly they become used to a routine, especially coming winter.

Give it a couple of weeks (you can watch from a distance) and gradually move closer. A hide is a good investment. Remember, you tend to get out of it what you put into it!

Best of luck!!
Regards

John

Basic back garden feeding station, pond, took 6 hours to construct, 7' x 4', with logs free from local cemetery.

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Camera triggered wirelessly and flash also wireless, sit in the hide with AP and a flask of coffee in winter a fire too.
 
I`d have thought you would be able to take a decent photograph with all that gear and set up..............:naughty:
 
Yes and no, some start at £150 but betterones end up around £600.
You could probably build one yourself if you do a fair bit of google search's, and would be cheaper.
 
Jon Mc,
Just to clarify; At no point did I suggest drilling holes in trees!!
By "setting up perches" I mean finding old fallen branches, preferably with some moss/lichen on them and THESE are what you drill the holes in and then fill with suet.

You don't have much luck attracting birds if you bury/hide the food!!

Regards
 
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Hi,
My advice would be to set up a feeding station. If your trying for birds, set up some perches, drill some holes and fill with suet, scatter some sunflower hearts etc.

You didn't exactly make it obvious what you were suggesting to to drill holes into. I can read it now after you've cleared it up, but with doing that, I would have still thought you meant drilling into tree's. My post wasn't an attack at your post either, And I'm sorry if that is how you felt when reading it.

And I'll clear up, yes, I've had quiet a bit of luck burying bait/seed's etc. It's something my Grandfather taught me to do. Most mammals and birds have better eyesight and smell into the tens if not hundreds of times better then human being's. If you think they won't work for their food, your seriously underestimating your prey. Deer's for example are foraging animal's, if you lure them in, which I would do as I also scatter bait aswell as bury it, you can see the animal smell out the food. I'll agree, this usually work's better for mammals, but I have been successful using this method with bird's also. Don't get me wrong, I'm not buring it under the soil, I hid it under leaf's and in cracks of tree's etc.

And Harvey they are expensive, but they would be worth it. Take a look on ebay and the sales section for second hand one's? might be cheaper then you expect.

John
 
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Jon Mc,
Just to clarify; At no point did I suggest drilling holes in trees!!
By "setting up perches" I mean finding old fallen branches, preferably with some moss/lichen on them and THESE are what you drill the holes in and then fill with suet.

You don't have much luck attracting birds if you bury/hide the food!!

Regards

I agree, I have holes drilled all over, in the logs I have set up round the pond, in fence posts and many places near the camera, just fill with crushed NEVER whole peanuts as they can choke and kill small new birds.
 
You didn't exactly make it obvious what you were suggesting to to drill holes into. I can read it now after you've cleared it up, but with doing that, I would have still thought you meant drilling into tree's. My post wasn't an attack at your post either, And I'm sorry if that is how you felt when reading it.

John

You know I find that a lot here and on other sites. You say he didn't make it obvious, I have had comments like that or peaple mis reading my posts.

It was clear to ME, he didn't say drill holes in trees, or just perhaps he assumes people have the sense to know that already.

It is a chat room, we don't have time to write a book, a lot is left to people to think.
 
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Again, It can read different to everyone, my response wasn't out to attack, it was mainly, stating the obvious I suppose.

And Jeremy, I shop at Camera warehouse, so yes, I've seen gimbals at the top price's, Such as the Wimberley Head Mk II that retails at £550. I did check your link before posting. And I personally would have only went for the Rh-2, I also read the review. It's abit of kit that I'm considering, specifically from Lensmaster, Mainly down to your review!

John
 
:gag:
Again, It can read different to everyone, my response wasn't out to attack, it was mainly, stating the obvious I suppose.

And Jeremy, I shop at Camera warehouse, so yes, I've seen gimbals at the top price's, Such as the Wimberley Head Mk II that retails at £550. I did check your link before posting. And I personally would have only went for the Rh-2, I also read the review. It's abit of kit that I'm considering, specifically from Lensmaster, Mainly down to your review!

John

Then I had better be more elaborate and factual in my response at it appears you wish it so.

You clearly stated, "some start at £150 but betterones end up around £600."

Better ones end up around £600.

That is a broad and sweeping statement, have you ever undertaken a full and comprehensive review of all that are available?

I have used £500 and £60 gimbals, and can tell you that just because one is £500 it does not make it "better", and what is "better" how do you define "better", it can be subjective.

Is a Bentley turbo better than a range rover, not if you want to go off road.

I HAVE done a comprehensive review of both of the Lensmaster gimbals, I have tested cheap ones from India and expensive ones, and I have no intention of saying one is better than the other, what I will say is that (a) I would not trust my £3k set-up to an import from India, and I would not throw money away on a Wimberley, and if you do ever find yourself in the position to “blind” test a Lensmaster with which I have no connection at all against a Wimberley, there is little for me to find the extra £400 worth paying.

If this has in any way confused anyone please let me know and I will elaborate more.

Oh and I am glad someone shops at Camera Warehouse, someone has to pay their OTT prices :gag: .
 
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Well , I'm glad you guys have sorted that out then, what food do you put down for deer?
 
:gag:

Then I had better be more elaborate and factual in my response at it appears you wish it so.

You clearly stated, "some start at £150 but betterones end up around £600."

Better ones end up around £600.

That is a broad and sweeping statement, have you ever undertaken a full and comprehensive review of all that are available?

I have used £500 and £60 gimbals, and can tell you that just because one is £500 it does not make it "better", and what is "better" how do you define "better", it can be subjective.

Is a Bentley turbo better than a range rover, not if you want to go off road.

I HAVE done a comprehensive review of both of the Lensmaster gimbals, I have tested cheap ones from India and expensive ones, and I have no intention of saying one is better than the other, what I will say is that (a) I would not trust my £3k set-up to an import from India, and I would not throw money away on a Wimberley, and if you do ever find yourself in the position to “blind” test a Lensmaster with which I have no connection at all against a Wimberley, there is little for me to find the extra £400 worth paying.

If this has in any way confused anyone please let me know and I will elaborate more.

Oh and I am glad someone shops at Camera Warehouse, someone has to pay their OTT prices :gag: .


Well what that lensmaster doesn't appear to have is a means of raising the height of the camera on the gimbal which makes a huge difference with different lenses mounted to reduce the tendency of the sense to seesaw under it's own weight and need less torque applying on the side knob(s)

You couldn't do that with the Manfrotto 393 I used to own excellent value that it was.

You can't do it either with the Dietmar Nill Gimbal I still have which cost me 500 quid a few years ago and nowadays is considerably more.

You can do it with the Black Widow Heavy Duty Gimbal I've just bought (£410) and I must say it's just about the perfect gimbal.

All of these heads have their good and bad points but when it comes to gimbals, I'm sorry but the fact is you get what you pay for and most photographers aren't idiots - if they've forked out for a 500mm or 600mm lens they're not going to begrudge the cost of putting the right gimbal underneath it any more than they'd begrudge the cost of a suitable tripod.
 
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Well what that lensmaster doesn't appear to have is a means of raising the height of the camera on the gimbal which makes a huge difference with different lenses mounted to reduce the tendency of the sense to seesaw under it's own weight and need less torque applying on the side knob(s)
QUOTE]

Simply "raising" the height of the camera/lens will make no difference to the swing of the outfit, what you refer to is the balance and that is achieved by moving the outfit back or forward on the mount with the baseplate in the plate holder.

When using a long lens or as you can see from my setup a heavy camera with hammerhead and battery pack, you can buy counter weights to attach to the front if there is a lot of weight, or simply buy a longer baseplate allowing back and forth "centering".

It is done all the time within Astronomy, and telescopes, depending on the eyepiece weight.
 
Well what that lensmaster doesn't appear to have is a means of raising the height of the camera on the gimbal which makes a huge difference with different lenses mounted to reduce the tendency of the sense to seesaw under it's own weight and need less torque applying on the side knob(s)
QUOTE]

Simply "raising" the height of the camera/lens will make no difference to the swing of the outfit, what you refer to is the balance and that is achieved by moving the outfit back or forward on the mount with the baseplate in the plate holder.

Of course it does! By raising the height of the camera/lens combo it's hanging on a much shorter arm with a much reduced pendulum effect, and therefore needs less torque applying on the arm lock. The camera stays at whatever angle you put it at with less inclination to keep trying to return to the horizontal.
 
Of course it does! By raising the height of the camera/lens combo it's hanging on a much shorter arm with a much reduced pendulum effect, and therefore needs less torque applying on the arm lock. The camera stays at whatever angle you put it at with less inclination to keep trying to return to the horizontal.

Sorry, yes you are right, I was on my third coffe, caffine overload.

Yes, However it is possible to rotate the second gimbal I reviewed, you are able to place a long baseplate in that which can be bought as an astronomical accessory, and is "L" shaped, and place a safety pin in the top then you have unlimited up and down movement.

It converts the second gimbal to one similar to the first but with "up-down" movement.

Are you confused, I am, coffee time.

http://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/Products/L-arm_Adapter_for_Altazimuth_.html

There are many others available also.

http://sirpatrickmooresales.co.uk/NEW.aspx
 
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LOL. No2 Son has his own precision engineering workshop and I asked him to look at making a gimbal. He concluded that with tooling costs and all the rest of it, you'd have to sell an awful lot for it to be a worthwhile competitive undertaking. He concluded that the ones on the market are a bargain. :shrug:
 
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Are we finished debating.......:D

QUOTE]

NO

This is a forum, and that is what it is for, and just because something costs more does not make it better as I have said.

But when 2 people start going on at each other over something like this, its often better to go and start a new thread on the matter instead of actually derailing the original thread ;)

I think its been made obvious to the OP that a Gimbal is a decent investment, however I am not sure this is the exact place to go in the specifics of base plates, pendulum effects etc :)
 
When two people start going on at each other !

You have a very funny idea of a forum, I thought this is what it was for, not a row, not going on but perhaps a discussion, perhaps heated but who are you to dictate who can or can not discuss things as long as it is not rude or abusive.

THIS IS A FORUM.

"An Internet forum, or message board, is an online discussion site where people can hold conversations in the form of posted messages"

And unless I am missing the point some discussions branch off to include other topics ! that are related.
 
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jeremy i really do think you need to chill, not everyone is trying to attack you.
the satelilite comment is a joke as it does look like your hide has a a sky dish attached to it, now that would be quality.

I know, it is me, I need to get out more and cut down on the caffine, you are right.

AND I HATE THAT :bang:
 
hmmm I've managed to get some good pics just by sitting quietly in a place far enough away from humans. I'm good at sitting quietly. ;) It also helps if the area is normally frequented by humans so the wildlife is sort of used to them being there :)
 
:D
I think we are all well aware of what a forum is for - this one requires everyone to keep it civil, just in case anyone has forgotten. Discuss please chaps, not argue.

Didn't the PM get a roasting for saying "Calm down darling" to a woman, now us chaps are being told to not argue by a woman, wow equality :lol:
 
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OP, to get back on topic.

Depends on the type of birds you want to shoot. I know there is a couple of lads on here who will think nothing of picking up some fresh road kill, throwing it in the car and putting that out for buzzards etc :)
 
I started by photographing the birds in the garden. I put out some feeders and attached some branches to the top of these and waited...and watched. You soon start to notice the behaviour of the birds. For example the Blue Tits would gather first in the lower branches of surrounding trees, other Tits higher in the tree and at the top would be the Goldfinches. The Blue Tits would be the first to come to the feeders, followed by the Great Tits and then lastly the Goldfinches would come in. Most birds would perch on the 'fake' branches first except the Coal Tits would never perch and just fly straight in and out again.

Once I'd started to attract a few birds it drew more in, including Nuthatch and GS Woodpecker. I then changed the branches around to target different birds, having a very tall stem above the feeders for NH and GSW to land on and walk down. I did drill a few holes in a fill with suet or peanuts but found the best shots came from the birds moving down to the regular feeders.

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I then wanted to move further afield and shoot more in the 'wild' and once I understood what they would do I could predict behaviour, having researched where to be at what time. I'd recommend watching, understanding and learning the behaviour of your subjects is the most valuable.
 
wow one ten - lovely shots - one day *sigh*
 
Thanks to everyone for their comments I'm very greatful for you taking the time and I'll be putting it to good use, Harvey
 
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