Would a monopod help with panning ?

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Flyfisher

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Ive been using a canon 40D and a 100-400 IS lens for motorsport photography. Ive been trying to get the shutter speed as low as possible
(160th) so far, but even at higher speeds my hit rate is pretty poor. I do use IS on mode 2 for panning but would a monopod improve my hit rate ?
 
I actually stop using my monopod for panning as it feels too odd particularly if a little bit of movement in both vertical and horizontal plane is involved.
 
Monopod is definitely a worth while piece of kit for motorsport, I don't use mine for panning and I don't think it would help.
 
What about if the OP stuck manfrottos universal folding base (MN678) at the bottom of the monopod (obviously on a compatible monopod) would that not help :shrug:
 
Trig's said:
What about if the OP stuck manfrottos universal folding base (MN678) at the bottom of the monopod (obviously on a compatible monopod) would that not help :shrug:
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What is that actually intended to do ?. Is it to form a mini-tripod ?
 
The problem with a monopod is that it forces you to move in an arc. Pans are generally one linear movement maybe with a small arc. The only monopod solution i have seen that could work with panning is the waist pouch and a short monopod with ballhead fitted to a heavy lens. This can work as a certain amount of panning movement comes from your hips.

However a monopod is really intended as a way to support the weight of a heavy lens which is quick to deploy on uneven ground.

Anything under about 300mm 2.8 really doesn't benefit from a monopod.
 
I couldn't get settled with a monopod whilst panning at race meetings, actually I turned into a dangerous weapon to anyone near me, I prefer to get my feet planted and swing from the hips.
 
I tend to use a monopod, and have done for a couple of years.

I twisted my back clambering over a tyre wall at Anglesey two years ago, and decided then that as I've only got one back, and its got to last me a good few years yet, taking care of it may not be such a bad thing.

However, for panning, I tend to remove it.
 
I totally use a mono to help pan that lens. If you get down to action level, you can pan all day. Shut the IS off. And focus on your own. Either follow or pan the area.
 
I use a monopod with my Bigma. Find panning fine with it too, although I can also pan without it. Makes very little difference to me....
 
Sometimes I use it and sometimes I dont. I dont find it overly 'helpful' really, it just takes some weight off your arms for a bit!
 
dunganick said:
Anything under about 300mm 2.8 really doesn't benefit from a monopod.
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I'd agree that under 300mm (2.8 or not) it makes little difference but I am in the camp of using the monopod.

The waist belt method is probably the best bet but not the one I use currently.
 
I need to work on my technique - I don't rotate properly, instead the monopod seems to tilt through the vertical (think in terms of the movement of a metronome) as I follow the subject through the pan. End result is lots of wonky horizons which need correcting in PP (not the end of the world I know but I'd like to get out of this bad habit).

I usually end up handholding...
 
I wouldn't say a mono forces bad practice but it does allow for an arc movement . Mono is a good piece of kit to have for many situations so I wouldn't write it off completely. If you want some ultra high quality pans go for a tripod and fluid head. Against a flat piece of road some really good results can be had. The outside of turn one at Oulton is fairly flat and you will not need a long lens, there is usually a crowd opposite this position which add a great deal to the look of the back ground. If you can maintain shutter speeds a wider f-stop (8ish) is helpful too. I use a mono with a fluid head in the base and get good results sown to 80th but also hand hold down to 80th. any slower and I'm in either the mono or tripod.
 
The biggest problem you face with going really slow is less about your technique and more about the movement of the vehicle. Unless it doesn't bounce around and change distance in the time you are tracking it, no excellent panning technique will help you and the result will be random if not neccessarily un-desirable.
 
I don't really pan with long glass, simples :)

Panning or other stuff needing large movements I do by hand, but thats only up to 300mm.

One of the massive advantages of not using a 300 2.8 is that f4 is light enough to hand hold :)
 
I tried to use a monopod for panning. My hit rate went down.

I can't remember exactly where I originally read it, but I started panning using a technique posted on another forum.

The common way I see people panning is position their feet towards the car where they will start panning from, then twist their body round with the pan before shooting. This is all very well but you are twisting yourself away from your natural position in order to take the shot.

I got much better sucess by changing my stance. I put myself in a position where I am comfortably facing the point where I wish to take the shot, then twist my body at the waist so I am facing the cars as they come into view. Then as I am following the car my body is twisting back into it's natural position for shooting - and my pans are smoother.

I used to get some vertical and horizontal movement in my pans - now I hardly get any. (y)

Technique 1 - Equipment 0
 
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