Would this work ? Push Pull in Camera

BADGER.BRAD

BADGER.BRAD

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Hello all,

A theoretical question ! I've decided for dull winter conditions to use a 400 ASA Film but wish to use it at 800 speed. Now I could do this in camera by rating it as 200 ASA and make the camera over expose by one stop ( or just over expose one stop with my own calcs (sunny 16 or external meter) Would this work or is it best to do this in processing ? Now alternatively I've got this film in camera and have some very bright conditions where it would just blow the highlights so I take a reading ( or use sunny 16) and deliberately under exposure by x amount of stops using a filter so that I can use a shutter speed that I have available and still process the whole film as one speed . Would this work ( don't worry if you confused by now , I certainly am !) Now just to cause even more brain overload if I've shot a 400 speed film at 800 ASA and used these methods do I tell the processors I've shot my 400 film at 200 speed in order to get the over exposure to 800 or do I let it go through processing at 400. At this point if you still following your a better man/woman that me ? Good luck !
 
Kevin Allan said:
To rate the film at ISO800, you will be under exposing by one stop, compared to box speed, not over exposing. So you need to set the meter to 800 to get the correct reading. You will need to tell your lab that you have rated the film at 800, so that they can increase the processing time accordingly.
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:agree:
 
If using B&W you could try some Ilford XP2. It has a wide latitude and you can shoot it at various asa settings on the same roll while developing it normally without pushing or pulling - so set the camera meter for 200asa in bright conditions, or drop it to box speed (400asa) or even 800asa for when there is less light. I’ve never tried this myself, but I’ve read that it can still produce good results.

It’s a C41 film too, so you can have it developed easily at most commercial labs.
 
Thanks for your input everyone, I have some manual cameras that have very limited to limited shutter speeds so putting a fast/slow film in would cause problems in certain conditions, some of the idea with this was to make these cameras a little more flexible.I must admit I've used XP2 in the past and the results were excellent Nige.
 
FishyFish said:
If using B&W you could try some Ilford XP2. It has a wide latitude and you can shoot it at various asa settings on the same roll while developing it normally without pushing or pulling - so set the camera meter for 200asa in bright conditions, or drop it to box speed (400asa) or even 800asa for when there is less light. I’ve never tried this myself, but I’ve read that it can still produce good results.

It’s a C41 film too, so you can have it developed easily at most commercial labs.
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Pretty much any negative film will have enough latitude to cope with a stop either way, especially once the lab's done the printing as well. Slide would be another matter and 1/3 stop either way can make (or break!) the shot!
 
XP2 certainly has plenty of latitude.

If you're basically guessing at exposures (based on the "Sunny - f/16 rule-of-thumb), film latitude is probably the least of your problems.
 
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