Yongnuo YN-622 Q&A

TG. said:
Can't really justify Odins at the moment, particularly with the amount of use they would get, that's why the 622s would have been perfect price wise, looks like i will have to go for the kings, Hahnel also sell a set, but not much reviewing on them as yet though. What are PeeWee Flexs ?
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Pocket Wizard Flex/Mini auto-TTL triggers. Expensive, but they can also do some cool and really useful tricks that no other system offers - Peak HyperSync, optimised HSS, optimised second-curtain sync.
 
HoppyUK said:
Pocket Wizard Flex/Mini auto-TTL triggers. Expensive, but they can also do some cool and really useful tricks that no other system offers - Peak HyperSync, optimised HSS, optimised second-curtain sync.
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They would be my first choice Richard, but just can't justify the cost right now, i've just had the bill for my D700 repair :shake: so it's looking like the Pixels, if i'm lucky :eek:

Kris said:
Pocket Wizards are affectionately called PeeWees.

Their flex system, though not without its detractors or its fans:
http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/flextt5-nikon/

I think the Nikon versions are working well now compared to the early canon problems. But if the Odins are not justifiable at the moment, the PW system isn't going to improve things.

Elv has also written about a few ttl triggers here:
http://flashhavoc.com/category/reviews/radio-triggers/ttl-triggers/
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Thanks for the links Kris :)
 
I'm looking for a solution to my lighting problem and don't know if these will help. I have a 5dmk3 and use 4 Elinchrom DLite 4s which syncd at 1/250 with my old 7d but having sold that to help pay for the 5dmk3 I'm unable to sync at anything faster than 1/160 without getting black banding at the bottom of the picture.
I understand that if I use PW mini tt1 and flex I should be able to increase my sync speed but can these Yongnuo YN-622Cs achieve the same effects?....at considerably lower prices.
 
lala said:
I'm looking for a solution to my lighting problem and don't know if these will help. I have a 5dmk3 and use 4 Elinchrom DLite 4s which syncd at 1/250 with my old 7d but having sold that to help pay for the 5dmk3 I'm unable to sync at anything faster than 1/160 without getting black banding at the bottom of the picture.
I understand that if I use PW mini tt1 and flex I should be able to increase my sync speed but can these Yongnuo YN-622Cs achieve the same effects?....at considerably lower prices.
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No, you can't increase the x-sync maximum (that's a PW Mini/Flex exclusive) but the native x-sync on a 5D3 is 1/200sec so you'll get that with the YN 622.

What trigger are you using with the D-Lites? If it's the standard Elinchrom Skyport, swap that for a Skyport Speed and you'll get 1/200sec. Or maybe you've already got the Speeds and just need to switch them into high speed mode - see handbook.
 
HoppyUK said:
No, you can't increase the x-sync maximum (that's a PW Mini/Flex exclusive) but the native x-sync on a 5D3 is 1/200sec so you'll get that with the YN 622.

What trigger are you using with the D-Lites? If it's the standard Elinchrom Skyport, swap that for a Skyport Speed and you'll get 1/200sec. Or maybe you've already got the Speeds and just need to switch them into high speed mode - see handbook.
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Cheers for that, just what I needed, a concise answer! I'm using the standard skyport Eco that comes with the DLite it kits. Can I use a pw mini on the body and the inbuilt receivers on the heads, or is there no mix n match?
 
There is zero cross compatibility between different trigger manufacturers.

sometimes there is zero compatibility even across manufacturers own ranges!
 
As Kris says. While different triggers might say they use the same frequency, there's a range within that and none of them is interchangeable between brands.

There are a few triggers you can mix, and they always state compatibility. The main one is Phottix/Calumet/Interfit do a PW clone that is deliberately PW compatible, but cheaper. It's banned from sale in the US and note there are also US and EC versions of PWs, but you could use a PW Mini on camera and one of those others on the flash. Or upgrade to Skyport Speed (you only need the transmitter) to raise the x-sync to 1/200sec.
 
I thought phottix pulled the plug on all versions (EU and US) of its peewee compatible atlas, of which the calumet and interfit are simply re-branded?

E.g. the calumet pro range now state 2.4Ghz here:
http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/eng/p...channel_wireless_trigger_kit_canon_fit/cf0090

Shame though, if idiotic US protectionism via patent law suit endured, we would still be driving around in model T fords with a silly man and a flag in front of us.
 
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Kris said:
I thought phottix pulled the plug on all versions (EU and US) of its peewee compatible atlas, of which the calumet and interfit are simply re-branded?

E.g. the calumet pro range now state 2.4Ghz here:
http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/eng/p...channel_wireless_trigger_kit_canon_fit/cf0090

Shame though, if idiotic US protectionism via patent law suit endured, we would still be driving around in model T fords with a silly man and a flag in front of us.
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Prolly right Kris, though I see the Interfit Titan version is still in stock at WEX http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-...pro-transceiver_1522750&utm_source=googlebase

The Calumet triggers on your link are Phottix Strato Mk1, and very good they are too.
 
Has anyone (other than Beansprout) got access to these transceivers and a YN560 to test whether or not you can get remote flash power / zoom management?

Beansprout (via PM, thanks) said that he couldn't get his to do this, and can't control his YN560 even when it is directly on the camera without a trigger present (via the menu). I can do this with the YN560 which was one of the first to have the metal shoe rather than the very latest offerings.

I can afford to upgrade my triggers (from the 602s) I can't afford to upgrade my triggers and flashes!

I'd be very grateful if anyone with this setup could post up!
 
Bennp2000 said:
Has anyone (other than Beansprout) got access to these transceivers and a YN560 to test whether or not you can get remote flash power / zoom management?

Beansprout (via PM, thanks) said that he couldn't get his to do this, and can't control his YN560 even when it is directly on the camera without a trigger present (via the menu). I can do this with the YN560 which was one of the first to have the metal shoe rather than the very latest offerings.

I can afford to upgrade my triggers (from the 602s) I can't afford to upgrade my triggers and flashes!

I'd be very grateful if anyone with this setup could post up!
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Had a think about this again this morning and dug out my remaining YN560 to confirm what I remembered. The YN560 only has one pin connected to the hotshoe so surely there can't be communication for other settings as well? :shrug:
 
you are of course correct. Its my much older 4-series flashes that I can control via the in-camera menu.

:wacky:

I guess the upgrade will need to wait then...
 
Best upgrade path is probably YN568's which will allow full control when you get 622's and also give real HSS instead of having to use the tail sync method.
 
do you think the newer YN flashes justify their price? I was quite happy to accept lesser build quality and the fact that they might break for the relatively low prices I've paid in the past, but as the newer flashes approach that of used Canon products I start to wonder if my money would be better spent in that direction?
 
If you ultimately want to have flashes controlled from camera via 622's then the choice is Canon EXII flashes or yongnuo. 430EXII's sell for around 160 2nd hand. So its still a bump in price if looking at multiple flashes.
I've still got my 580EXII but recently sold my 430 because I'm happy with the yn568.
 
Barrysprout said:
Also worth a mention is the fact that the 622's allow me to use 1/200th shutter on the 5D even with the Yongnuo 560's which the 603's never could. With the 603's I couldn't get a clean frame above 1/160th
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What happened above 160th to the image?
 
scoped said:
What happened above 160th to the image?
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you get a dark bar near the bottom or top, where the flash didn't sync and fire at the right time.

I have gotten that once using 622c at 200th. Most times it's been great.

What's the difference between Yn468II and this Yn568? 468 seems like a great budget flash with 622c support.
 
wuyanxu said:
you get a dark bar near the bottom or top, where the flash didn't sync and fire at the right time.

I have gotten that once using 622c at 200th. Most times it's been great.

What's the difference between Yn468II and this Yn568? 468 seems like a great budget flash with 622c support.
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I don't know, but at the time the 5-series flashes were considered a step up in build quality and reliability. The 468 didn't ever seem to get too much attention as it was superseded so quickly.
 
Bennp2000 said:
you catch a bit of the shutter in shot as a black bar.
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Ok thanks!
I can't say it's ever happened with my 603's at 200 though (apologies if this has already been said as I haven't read through the whole thread)
 
scoped said:
Ok thanks!
I can't say it's ever happened with my 603's at 200 though (apologies if this has already been said as I haven't read through the whole thread)
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If that is with the 60D then it's as expected. The 60D has an Xsync of 1/250th compared with the 5D MkII's 1/200th.

In saying that some people can get lucky with the 603's and get the full potential.

Try your 60D at 1/250th and see if you get a clean frame.
 
you sometimes don't really notice it as well, it depends on what your ambient to flash ratio is like.

I once spent ages feathering a softbox as it wasn't quite doing as I wished before realising that I was hitting my X-sync and that's why it wasn't quite correct at the top of the frame. DOH!
 
Barrysprout said:
If that is with the 60D then it's as expected. The 60D has an Xsync of 1/250th compared with the 5D MkII's 1/200th.

In saying that some people can get lucky with the 603's and get the full potential.

Try your 60D at 1/250th and see if you get a clean frame.
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Ah ok! I'll try it today, and see if the same happens
 
jonneymendoza said:
What's this thing on how the 2nd curtain doesn't work in wireless flash mode? Read it in his thread
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I'm sure it does, with the YN's but as Richard will tell you, 2nd curtain isn't quite that (camera fault not the triggers), however the Pocketwizard Flex's give true 2nd curtain.
 
jonneymendoza said:
What's this thing on how the 2nd curtain doesn't work in wireless flash mode? Read it in his thread
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Standard OEM Canon system doesn't do wireless remote second-curtain sync, for reasons unknown. Most third party TTL radio triggers do though, including YN 622. As Phil says, PW's Mini/Flex system can adjust the exact timing moment for optimum result.
 
Is the 2nd curtain necessary for HSS?

i always thought it is. Thats the point of HSS right? to execute the flash twice, one, opening up curtain and 2nd, when closing curtain
 
jonneymendoza said:
Is the 2nd curtain necessary for HSS?

i always thought it is. Thats the point of HSS right? to execute the flash twice, one, opening up curtain and 2nd, when closing curtain
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No, second-curtain sync and high-speed sync are two completely different things.

Second-curtain sync fires the flash at the end of the exposure, as opposed to the beginning as normal. Can be good for combining moving subject and ambient light blur.

HSS (FP-sync in Nikon speak) fires the flash in a totally different way, mimicking continuous light for a brief time, just long enough for the focal plane shutter to complete its cycle. Therefore, it can be used at highest shutter speeds without a dark band appearing, but the penalty is significant loss of effective brightness.
 
No, 2nd curtain sync is just for when you are photographing something moving in a uniform direction so that the flash fires with a trail behind it (trail lit with ambient).

HSS is to fire the flash at higher than sync speed. The standard method for ettl flash is:
Flash pre-fires so that the camera can meter the scene to communicate the required flash power.
The first curtain opens, and when the sensor is fully exposed, the flash fires before the 2nd curtain closes.

For 2nd curtain sync to make a difference to the exposure, the shutter has to be open long enough to make the difference visible as the flash fires not after the first opens, but before the 2nd starts to close.(usually over 1/15)

For HSS to work, rather than having a single flash when the shutter is fully open, either a longer flash or a series of pulses occur throughout the shutter firing. So high speed flash is often a slower 'flash'.


Edit. Cross posted with Richard
 
Hi guys. I just received set of 622c.
I'm using them with 5dmk2, Nissin di866, Canon 430ex mk1.

I'm interested in manual mode.
5dmk2+Nissing di866 works great. Both set to manual.
5dmk2+430ex mk1. Both set to manual. Flash doesnt fire. Both set to TTL - flash fires.
When I switch 430ex mk1 to slave while on the 622c it goes numb switching the mode between normal and slave.

Any thoughts?
Cheers


edit.
Weird. I tried every possible set up in the camera and flash menus. No result. I swapped the transcievers and it started to work. It still works after I swapped them back.
 
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Read the guide in the link two above your post about class 1 and class 2 flashgun compatibility.
 
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