Recent content by zooxanthellae

Read the product description again on the 1st for cameras link ,I thought it said 'baby phooing coat' until I realised I was reading a typo. Quite unsavoury.

I purchased a very dusty one for good monies, it even had small animal hair behind the front element. Gave it a clean out and fitted a HD front filter, the lens stayed dust free after this for many months until I sold it myself as I moved to FF. cracking lens !!! Just keep the barrel as clean...

At 400mm you will struggle without OS free hand. I have a canon 70-200 2.8 non I.s and although I could have gone with a tele it would have been hard to use free hand. I added the 150-500 to my line up and so glad I did, the OS is superb too.

I might have got my knickers in a twist here but if you add + MA doest that move focus foward? If so bring it back to +15 as it's back focusing now, well to me at least when viewed on my phone.

Are the other bodies you are testing it on crop? If so it may be due to the more forgiving DOF on the 1.6 crop compared to your mk1V. Try it on a FF as if the problem is with the lens it will be worse than the MK1V. My MA on my 24-70 is different at the long and short ends I do know that.

Nope no knife!!!! Remove the lens and leave it in the sun and try again. Just don't point it at the sun with the lens cap off whilst attached to the camera as you could end up melting the mirror box. Sounds like the bayonet hasnt been fitted correctly before being forced on by turning the hood...

Was this in single shot mode or machine gun? Just wonder if you have AF as secondary priority and the camera is more interested in getting a shot off than AF in 19 point setting as nothing looks to be in focus

When you purchase go and take real world pics in real world situations to get a feel for it. Don't jump straight in checking batteries or rulers at certain angles whilst avoiding shooting on any day with an M in it whilst balancing a sausage on your right shoulder. You'll just scare yourself to...

Have you tried taking the little battery out as well as the main batt? A long shot as it does sound mirror/shutter based but worth a go.

Yup it's the fps clash with 50 UK hertz cycling. Try sticking the camera into NTSC 30fps and picking a shutter speed of twice the NTSC fps I. E shutter speed of 60. If in pal 25fps avoid multiples of this number for shutter speed I.E 50 ,100 etc as you will start to record the 50 hertz cycle...

Can you remove the pin? If the pin is sitting there and is solid it won't let the body seat down onto the head plate.The camera will then turn on the plate. My 5d II plus 24-70 doesn't shift on both of my manfrotto heads, they don't feature a pin system which I imagine is for certain cameras.

With fixed aperture you don't get the iris twitch as it changes when you zoom when taking video.I found this quite annoying as there is an associated glitch in exposure and a light clicking as the blades close down.

Dont suppose someone can give some good advice on decent M42 or FD lenses and adaptors for the NEX as ive just laid my hands on one.:thumbs: I would love to utilise my EF lenses but it would seem that only one firm is looking at a conversion for electronically controlled aperture...

There is a service firmware that is applied to most Canon models so they can be calibrated. Once this has been done the firmware is flashed/factory reset back to consumer firmware. If you end up with the camera back with the service firmware you would find quite a few odd features plus standard...

This could be hertz cycling from artificial lighting depending on the shutter speed used and the hertz cycle in Aus . Do you get the same horizontal banding under natural light? Change the shutter speed under artificial light and depending on the hertz cycle you should be able to cancel the...