Recent content by CambsPhoto

Thanks guys, super help.

Nope, don't want to run Chronosync as I don't want to shoot to the Mac's system drive. I just want to shoot to an external HD enclosure with two SSD drives in it so simply looking for recommendations for decent external RAID1 SSD drive, thanks.

Ok, as Amazon does not have the faintest idea what RAID 1external SSD drives are (not a single raid enclose comes up when I search this) I figured I'd ask on here for recomendations of very 'Reliable' external RAID 1 USB SSD hard drives. It's for use for when I tether to my Apple laptop from my...

Thanks, sk66/ Mike, forgot to mention, I'm shooting in RAW so can grab detail back from where it can't be seen, but I'm not aiming to overexpose that much. From my tests the histogram looks fine, even slightly under if anything, but the highlights don't flag anything in the hightlight-warning.

sk, if it were a choice of underexposing a little and overexposing a little would you go for the latter, to give the sensor more detail? Nice tip on getting maximum amount of light to the sensor.

Makes sense. When I took test shots at both I prefered something in the middle, about f6. In Capture One with 'highlight alert' turned on, even at f5.6 nothing flashes up in highlight allert.

To clarify, two lights either side of camera both same distance from model, both give a flash reading of f5.6 individually, but together they give f8. What f-stop do I set camera to?

Fairly straight forward question but I'm having a tad of trouble with exposure on this one. In a studio environment with a key and fill light (both 500 watt monoblocks) I have key light set at f5.6 after taking a flash meter reading for given shutter speed of 1/160th second. I put in fill...

WOW! Thank you Simon, that worked. Well, didn't work the first time, but when I did it the second time it worked. Can't find that part in my manual though, but thanks so much.

Ah, didn't think of that. It just happened though, was not always like this. I don't have a remote. I use a Godox trigger.

Forget the Rotolight Neo II, they are not powerful enough. You'd be better off light painting with a high-powered torch. Or blast your AD600 at the bus from different positions and angles and comp the parts together in Photoshop.

Most people just use a high-powered torch.

For some reason, while using my Bowens flash mono block heads today one of them just suddenly started showing the digital display on the side of the head upside down. No idea why, everything else works fine apart from this. Any other Bowens users experienced this strange upside-down display...

Anybody around here familiar with Godox AD600BM (manual, not TTL) flash heads and taking flash readings with HSS?

Ah, thanks, Green. Yes, I do that, even with a black hood thrown over my head so I can see the tiny LCD even in the sun, and checking the histogram, but really like to have light meter reading too.