Recent content by sk66

Within how many stops? It's not unlimited... (typically 7-9 stops). And there's not much benefit of going beyond that as you probably can't print it.

IDK... Ansel redeveloped/reprocessed some of his images multiple times over the years.

Film can probably record detail you cannot see; in highlight or in shadow. The only questions are if the detail exists (there is any contrast), and if it can be resolved (it is large enough). I.e. just because the contrast (detail shadows/color) is overexposed to your eye does not mean it does...

I would say it has an exceptionally large exposure latitude. The film speed rating is whatever you decide it is; it is/was quite common to shift away from the official rating as "your default." E.g. many say ISO 200 is best with XP2. But that does make for a unique case for applying the zone...

I suppose you could also make note of the last exposed frame and then rewind/reload a roll (with enough care), or even cut a roll into segments for separate development... But yeah, I guess that's a major reason why the zone system is more of a historical note rather than common practice.

A human can see around 20 stops (with eye dilation), the dynamic range possible in nature is higher than that.

I think the main thing to learn from the zone system is that how something meters, and how it appears to you at the moment, are not reality. I.e. something that is middle gray can appear/record anywhere from black to white based upon how much light it is reflecting, and how long the exposure is...

Why select spot metering? The other metering modes already bias/average the exposure in some way. And no, it won't work; the Zone System is not (and never was) just about metering/exposure... theoretically, metering the exposure as you are suggesting could cause both the shadows and the...

And the roundhead speedlight thing is (almost?) entirely marketing BS, no matter the price...

My Lightroom catalog shows an average of approximately 300 images annually. I probably take ~4 times that, but many/most never even get imported. I generally don't take a picture unless I think it will be at least as good as one I already have in my portfolio or if it will be new/different..

I wouldn't bother unless you just want it around for miscellaneous use. The ones I have like that are used to hold/position speedlights and props/holders for product photography... they're not used to actually hold a camera.

The part with the three screw holes is the panning mechanism; it is designed to spin freely when the pan friction is loosened. I'm not sure what is holding the outer ring. It may be free to remove now with the pan friction knob/screw removed, or it may be being held captive by the stuck ball...

That looks like an inexpensive ballhead... I have a few of those around. On a head like that the locking knob is actually a conical screw. And when it is screwed in it wedges the ball (or a cup under the ball) upwards forcing the ball into the conical opening at the top. This is a picture of the...

Why not use a native app to convert them? Preview (Mac) and Photos (windows, w/ raw image extension) can open CR2/CR3 files and export /save them as jpegs.

Wireless triggers are great; but if you don't actually need them...