10 stop filter for £2 - really :D

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dinners said:
Hi folks

Apologies if this has already been covered - had a read through the thread but got a bit lost. Seems people are using a particular seller now.

Who are we all buying from ?

What number welding glass is good ?

Which holder ?
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From ebay for next to nothing, or £3 from Machine Mart. Any number is fine, they are all very dark, or very very extremely dark.

ScarySquirrel said:
Will this http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_1&products_id=103721 and this http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_1&products_id=103730 work?
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Just get the adapter ring, and stick the filter straight on it with BluTac, sealing any any light leaks.

ScarySquirrel said:
What do you mean 'from behind the lens'? Through the viewfinder, or where the glass is in the filter. If the latter, how would I avoid this?

Thanks.
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He means from between the filter and the front of the lens.

I got a local glazier to cut mine round and I fitted it into an old screw-in filter. The cut was a bit crude (cost £2 in the Xmas kitty) but I sealed it up with BluTac and it's fine. No light leaks and ten times easier to use than a big sharp square thing.

Don't forget a custom white balance as it's horribly green without, or sort it in post processing. And be certain to cover the viewfinder during the exposue or you will get light leaking in there too.
 
When you use the welding glass lens with the holder you will get light leaking between the front of the camera lens and the back of the welding glass, this light will reflect the camera lens's front element onto the back of the welding glass causing a horrible reflection on the final image. So all light needs to be shut out between them, there are a few methods in this thread from using old socks to diving suits ;)
 
Just found this thread, what a gem:clap:

Ordered myself a welding glass filter this week, can't wait to see what happens. Got to have a go for £2.30 LOL:D

I plan to glue the filter to an old screw on filter ring to avoid the xs light problems discussed earlier in this excellent thread.

Will post some pics if they turn out ok:shrug:
 
I just asked this question on an older thread. Why can't we just go out at night to get the much longer exposures.
 
Cheers Alby, I never thought about street lights because I like natural landscapes so probably wouldn't take street scenes at night,but it's a fair point. I guess I've just got enough junk to carry when Im out taking pictures and Im trying to justify not adding any more.
 
Thanks for resurrecting this thread, I'd intended to buy one of these months ago and completely forgot about it.... just bought one from Dark Mutton for £2 off ebay. Looking forward to having a play!

Paul
 
A good method of fitting it onto your lens is to use a stepping up ring. I used a 77 > 82 ring, cut the filter to about 80mm in diameter ( a glazier did it for me) and just glued it in with superglue.

Once the glue has dried you can cut any excess off with a Stanley knife. The knife doesn't damage the glass - unlike those useless multi-coated jobbies we're always being told we must buy ;) - and the glue just peels off.

j

PS when you've completely finished you can wipe the blood off with a paper tissue.....:puke:
 
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Can someone please help me to setup the WB for these?

I'm using a Nikon D90.

Thanks :)
 
Damoegan said:
Can someone please help me to setup the WB for these?

I'm using a Nikon D90.

Thanks :)
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Just as normal custom white balance setting. Shoot target (white or grey card - a neutral subject) under typical conditions, ie daylight, and make sure you cover the viewfinder eyepiece. Use that image to set the custom WB. Done. Just like any other WB custom setting.

To save you doing it again, you can save it in one of your user settings. What I do is always keep that image on the memory card, don't delete it, so it can be referenced and the WB reset at any time.

Or of course you can just leave it and do it in post processing - same difference.
 
Hi everyone, just getting in to this. Does it work at night as well as daytime?
And guess what? Because im a welder, i get mine supplied FREE from work!!!! :clap:
 
paddyg001 said:
Hi everyone, just getting in to this. Does it work at night as well as daytime?
And guess what? Because im a welder, i get mine supplied FREE from work!!!! :clap:
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It'll work - but a 13-14 stop delay at night is going to make for exposures that last all night :LOL: I suppose if you've a mains power unit for the camera, or maybe using it on (B&W) film it'd be okay :shrug:
 
TheBigYin said:
It'll work - but a 13-14 stop delay at night is going to make for exposures that last all night :LOL: I suppose if you've a mains power unit for the camera, or maybe using it on (B&W) film it'd be okay :shrug:
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He's not joking y'know! You don't use an ND filter at night as the exposure will be very long anyway.
 
Andy77 said:
My 1st attempt with the welding glass(y)

3563253-2-watergate-bay.jpg
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What a cracking shot. (y)
 
Robbo said:
lol I nearly pent 80-90 on a 77mm 10 stop....might re think now!
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The welding glass works alright but there are drawbacks and it's a lot of faffing. If you like this technqiue you'll soon get fed up with it.

This ND filter is cheaper at £65 and I think the best one currently available LightCraft ND500-MC http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photog...raft-workshop-77mm-nd500mc-filter-p-2927.html

It is nine stops, multicoated glass, and very close to neutral (B+W is a bit orange) but 77mm only. I got this and sold my B+W.
 
HoppyUK said:
The welding glass works alright but there are drawbacks and it's a lot of faffing. If you like this technqiue you'll soon get fed up with it.

This ND filter is cheaper at £65 and I think the best one currently available LightCraft ND500-MC http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photog...raft-workshop-77mm-nd500mc-filter-p-2927.html

It is nine stops, multicoated glass, and very close to neutral (B+W is a bit orange) but 77mm only. I got this and sold my B+W.
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Cheers for that I am after a 77mm for my 10-22mm and just using a step up ring to fit my other lens.

EDIT...link doesnt seem to work?
 
Here's one i took a few days ago with the b&w 10 stopper, its great and there does tend to be a warm colour cast but can be easily removed with pp
4912001263_93745e4bb6_z.jpg


Andy:)
 
Robbo said:
Cheers for that I am after a 77mm for my 10-22mm and just using a step up ring to fit my other lens.

EDIT...link doesnt seem to work?
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Link works for me. Or type in www.premier-ink.co.uk

Only slight drawback with that filter is it doesn't have a front thread, so it is more difficult to use with a square grad.

They've done it to make it super-slim and prevent vignetting with super-wides like your 10-22, but it is slim enough anyway and is just unnecessary. You can use a regular thickness filter on that 10-22 and still have no trouble.
 
Ive found a bit of a flaw with using the rubber bands! you cant zoom in cos it keeps pulling back!!! mist invest in a few tubes of superglue!(y)
 
A recent one from me:

4911711178_e828d282d7_z.jpg


My attachment method is using a cheap Cokin P filter ring off eBay [a 58mm version]. This has a flange of a fair width on it that you can use to stick on your glass with blutak. Just roll it out into a sausage shape that's long enough to go around the face the adaptor than place the glass on top. This now sits in my bag from time to time and be easily screwed on or off as required.
 
So, ordered some glass from darkmutton, looking at the mounting options.

1. Cheap Cokin p style holder on the front with tape round the outside?
2. Cheap Adapter ring, glued directly to the glass?
3. Cheap Adapter ring, stuck on with blutak?

Only going to use this on one lens, so the fact its got an adapter ring glued on isnt a problem. Just wondering which would give the best
 
I have mine stuck with suer glue :)
and tape on welding glass edges as mine is really sharp and gave me few cuts ;)
 
bastic said:
I have mine stuck with suer glue :)
and tape on welding glass edges as mine is really sharp and gave me few cuts ;)
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Obtain a sheet of medium emery cloth and rub across and then along the edges, this will take the sharp edges off.
 
You can also get a 77-to-82mm aluminum step-up ring for under £4 from the 'bay.. then cut the glass to size and superglue. Would give you a 2.5mm "lip" around.

Edit: Just found a 77-to-86 one for £3.. ordered it :)
 
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I've just dropped £2.50 on a 10 filter from darkmutton. Will have a fettle and see if I can get it in my lee holder.

As many have said - for such a small sum of cash you can't go wrong!
 
Might seem a obvious question but I’m assuming a B+W ND110 will give better results in terms of picture quality? Brought some glass a couple of weeks ago as a tester, really started getting into long exposures, here’s one from the weekend:

5029711346_2272739a16_z.jpg
 
Willo said:
Might seem a obvious question but I’m assuming a B+W ND110 will give better results in terms of picture quality? Brought some glass a couple of weeks ago as a tester, really started getting into long exposures, here’s one from the weekend:
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No - the picture quality is down to what you point the camera at. A proper ND110 will make quite a improvement to the IMAGE quality though :)
 
Well after I started this thread I have finally gone and got a B&W ND110 :D I will still play with the welding glass though as it is a lot more of a challenge then the proper thing :D
 
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