Can you focus stack hand held?

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I recently saw a fabulous macro image of an insect that apparently had been captured hand held. I asked how it was done and the op said that he swayed slightly to achieve this capturing approx 20 images to focus stack. Is this possible accepting that the overall size and proportions of the image will be changed? I don't understand but am intrigued.
 
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Thanks. I have the Canon 90 body which has the auto focus stack function but unfortunately I only have the Canon 100mm 2.8 non IS macro lens that does not. I learn you have to use the newer IS version for this to work seamlessly. I can't afford that so I guess it's manual operation, sway and hope.
 
I never move the camera, I move the focus points.
Moving the camera will give you different DoF's and composition.

The type of lens is pretty much irrelevant. I get good results from my M50 kit lens ( 15 - 45mm) as well as the 100mm L canon lens.
Just don't change the focal length if using a zoom.
 
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I never move the camera, I move the focus points.
Moving the camera will give you different DoF's and composition.
Exactly! Hence my original question.
If you have good light and can get away without flash, you could use 10 fps and take a burst of shots while gently 'rolling' forward.
But how do this not affect the composition in a stack. I just don't understand the physics of this.
 
And I asked the op if he used a focus rail and he said not. So I'm confused how he captured such amazing shots.
 
I assumed you can move the camera, as that's the same as a macro rail? :)
Think about it, you start with an image the size of a pea, in the view finder, for example, you walk forward, it now fills the screen, eyepeice what ever,
How are you going to stack several images of several sizes?

as that's the same as a macro rail? :)
A macro rail tends to be used with lens such as the MPE or other manual focusing lenses to get the fine adjustment, especially with 2 plus times magnification lens.
 
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Think about it, you start with an image the size of a pea, in the view finder, for example, you walk forward, it now fills the screen, eyepeice what ever,
How are you going to stack several images of several sizes?


A macro rail tends to be used with lens such as the MPE or other manual focusing lenses to get the fine adjustment, with 2 plus times magnification.
Fair point (y)

I'll keep queit :coat:
 
It works, but not as well as focus stepping.

The stacking software will automatically align the images, but if one is a long way off, it won't be included.

Luck will sometimes give a result, but it is not as consistent as focus stepping, either auto or manual
 
So to sum up. Camera on a fixed point, tripod, take, say 10 images, by adjusting the focus point, nothing else, although if the light changes you may need to adjust the speed, or ISO.
Adjusting the aperture may screw up the depth of field, and give a blurry result.
Then stack the resulting images in something like affinity Photo
 
Yep as Chris said move the focus point and take a series of shots
it’s how I used to do it but I never managed more than a stack of 3 or 4 doing it that way , that was just me not being very quick , but 3 shots is very often enough to get enough of the subject in focus
I now use a mirrorless camera, R5 where it does it for you and makes it easy
 
Just my view, I could be totally wrong...

After seeing the samples you posted, 12-20 stacks on an insect like a fly, assuming the lens is 1:1 and the final image was a hefty crop (a flies head at 1:1 is going to need a crop), moving the camera forward just a few mm's isn't really going to show after software stacking.

It would be an issue on a larger subject though.
 
Used to use the technique a lot of moving the camera and so the focal plane through the subject during a fast burst.

You need to balance aperture, shutter speed and iso. Set to manual (and fixed iso not auto iso ) and manual (fixed ) focus. Main problem is getting enough light on the subject. Got the technique from this and similar videos:

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HowcTTo3vfY
Needs practice !!!

I should say that I only got a handful of goodish results and got bored and moved back to more traditional methods. Main problem was the lighting - trying to use natural light is a pain and didnt want to complicate a simple technique by setting up led panels etc.

This is obviously for twitchy things outside.

Inside I may use a rail or generate a stack with the camera tethered and use ControlMyNikon ( windows only ) to drive the focus motor. I have not really used in camera stacking with small things / macro - seems better for landscapes etc but that is probably my not trying hard enough to get a handle on it.

There are always issues with ghosting in stacking whether you move the camera or the lens focus. Good discussion on the Zerene site.
 
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I assumed you can move the camera, as that's the same as a macro rail? :)
Me too. Keep the same settings on the camera but move the camera along the rail. I’ve done it and also used the fixed camera and change the focus method. However it is rare that I use either method so not much help.

I gather some people focus stack landscape shots. I take a lot of landscapes but never focus stack. Am I missing out.
 
Just my view, I could be totally wrong...

After seeing the samples you posted, 12-20 stacks on an insect like a fly, assuming the lens is 1:1 and the final image was a hefty crop (a flies head at 1:1 is going to need a crop), moving the camera forward just a few mm's isn't really going to show after software stacking.

It would be an issue on a larger subject though.
I wasn't happy with sizing of the images I posted previously so I repost here just to illustrate the sheer excellence of them. I can only wish I could take macro images like these. They are screen shots from Macro & Close up Photography a private Facebook group if you are interested, and I recommend you take a look if you are a subscriber.
Thanks anyway for all the advice and video that I watched with interest.
 
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I wasn't happy with sizing of the images I posted previously so I repost here just to illustrate the sheer excellence of them. I can only wish I could take macro images like these. They are screen shots from Macro & Close up Photography a private Facebook group if you are interested, and I recommend you take a look if you are a subscriber.
Thanks anyway for all the advice and video that I watched with interest.

View attachment 400069
View attachment 400070
Posting other peoples images without crediting them is considered bad form, here and elsewhere
 
Do a search for a chap called Brian Valentine AKA Lord V, he is very knowledgeable about all things macro and I seem to recall seeing a post of his on POTN about hand held stacking for macro, he is on Flickr and SmugMug
 
Do a search for a chap called Brian Valentine AKA Lord V, he is very knowledgeable about all things macro and I seem to recall seeing a post of his on POTN about hand held stacking for macro, he is on Flickr and SmugMug

he was one of the people that originally inspired me when I started shooting macro
 
I recently saw a fabulous macro image of an insect that apparently had been captured hand held. I asked how it was done and the op said that he swayed slightly to achieve this capturing approx 20 images to focus stack. Is this possible accepting that the overall size and proportions of the image will be changed? I don't understand but am intrigued.

What software are you using for stacking?
 
And I asked the op if he used a focus rail and he said not. So I'm confused how he captured such amazing shots.
I have not done any for a while now but used to use Helicon Remote which incrementally changes the point of focus. All you need to do is set the nearest and farthest point you want in focus and Helicon does the rest calculating the step size according the the aperture chosen. Helicon then captures the set. The actual stacking of the set can be done in PS and other software.

Dave
 
I have not done any for a while now but used to use Helicon Remote which incrementally changes the point of focus. All you need to do is set the nearest and farthest point you want in focus and Helicon does the rest calculating the step size according the the aperture chosen. Helicon then captures the set. The actual stacking of the set can be done in PS and other software.

Dave
I still think that the OP might check out the tethering by ControlMyNikon or Canon etc. One advantage is that this software can give you a preview of any stack you set up to see where the FPs are - saving images from the live feed to the PC before committing to actually take the sequence.
Had a look at Helicon remote and that looked good however - I preferred Zerene for its post cloning capabilities when I was trying this stuff but it’s swings and roundabouts.

There us a canon version - dunno about others - just used it on Z5,D500 and 1 V3


 
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Me too. Keep the same settings on the camera but move the camera along the rail. I’ve done it and also used the fixed camera and change the focus method. However it is rare that I use either method so not much help.

I gather some people focus stack landscape shots. I take a lot of landscapes but never focus stack. Am I missing out.
It's worth doing if you have an important foreground.
But you need tripod or place for it to sit, however the aligning in photoshop or whatever is really good now.
 
Here is a four picture focus stack I tried a little while ago, hans held.

I kept the camera at the same distance from the spider and re-focused on different parts.

Spider by John, on Flickr
 
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Here is a four picture focus stack I tried a little while ago.
I'm not sure what's happening there, it does seem a bit hazy?

It does clean up a bit, levels and USM in CS5.
Hope you don't mind?

53089356948edit_d9f89114de_c.jpg
 
I'm not sure what's happening there, it does seem a bit hazy?

It does clean up a bit, levels and USM in CS5.
Hope you don't mind?

View attachment 400116


Wow thanks Chris that looks much crisper. Off to try myself now. I use Affinity, I know what the "levels" are but unsure about USM
 
Wow thanks Chris that looks much crisper. ... but unsure about USM
No worries John, happy to help.
UnSharp Mask. IMO the best of the available sharpening tools.
I'm sure It's available in affinity too.
 
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