Canon EOS R Series Cameras

nandbytes said:
Doesn't look great in corners for shooting wide open but not sure if you care about the corners
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfjxK9EO9Nc


The EF and even he sigma Art version are a bit of an old design and not that great tbh. Sigma ART DSLR version is probably the best of the lot that's availabe for canon.

I see from your signature you have both Fuji and canon, may be fuji is better brand for 24mm FoV lenses. their 16mm or sigma 16mm f1.4 are really nice lenses in comparison.
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LongLensPhotography said:
I'm actually half tempted to get the art myself, unless I get the TSE mkII instead. Probably the latter would be more useful for my line of work, but also significantly dearer. I've got 2 L zooms that cover 24mm and I'm not truly happy with either. Ever since I got 5Ds I fell out of love with shorter zooms.

There is the newer DN ART version, which is obviously not available in Canon RF mount. I looked at the charts and I can see a very subtle improvement over DG version, It's there but it wouldn't justify upgrading. If you want to see truly major gains look at 35mm or 20mm versions. Also there is contemporary version, again E and L mount only and that is f/2 and at that setting it is already by far the sharpest one of the lot. The best 24mm f/1.4 lens is clearly the Sony GM and that is that.

P.s. I believe Tim is into the big Fuji's.... There is no 1.4 version there.
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Thanks guys, I managed to pick up a mint Canon EF version for the same price as the RF or Sigma. Looking forward to trying it out.
 
rob-nikon said:
The R5/R6 Lbracket is specially designed for those cameras. There is a generic one but it wont have the anti twist.


No L bracket I’d ever bought before having a Sony mirrorless camera ever went the full length of the camera underside. They always stopped before the battery door. The Sony’s needed the extra length to increase the depth of the camera grip as their cameras were far too short in height to hold nicely. The R6 with 3LT L bracket I have doesn’t need the extra depth as the grip already long enough for me.
The vertical side of the 3LT l bracket will impede the full opening of the screen. I find I have to open it 90 degrees then angle the screen to say 30 degrees then open it the rest of the way to 180 degrees (in line with the back of the camera). For anyone who’s used L brackets for years it’s a pretty acceptable compromise. I’d be unlikely to have the screen out flat to the side. I’d just turn it around and leave inside its surround if I wanted that.
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Bit of a question revival. Having had a look around it seems around if I may have to go for a 3LT Ellie short bracket . Could I ask a couple of questions please:

1) Are the 3LT L brackets stable ? I notice they are made in 2 sections any wobbles etc. My previous L bracket for my 7Dii was a one piece item and absolutely rock solid

2) Do you have any pictures please showing the restricted view of the screen? I appreciate I won't get full movement (my research suggests only the Promedia Gear brackets allow that) but just to show how restricted the view is. Ideally I'd like it to tilt at about 45 degrees up for landscape orientation shots so I don't have to crouch down to view the screen (getting older !) Similarly for portrait orientation - the pictures on the Sunwayfoto site suggest you have to stand at 90 degrees to where the camera is facing, which isn't ideal

Many thanks
 
taxboy said:
Bit of a question revival. Having had a look around it seems around if I may have to go for a 3LT Ellie short bracket . Could I ask a couple of questions please:

1) Are the 3LT L brackets stable ? I notice they are made in 2 sections any wobbles etc. My previous L bracket for my 7Dii was a one piece item and absolutely rock solid

2) Do you have any pictures please showing the restricted view of the screen? I appreciate I won't get full movement (my research suggests only the Promedia Gear brackets allow that) but just to show how restricted the view is. Ideally I'd like it to tilt at about 45 degrees up for landscape orientation shots so I don't have to crouch down to view the screen (getting older !) Similarly for portrait orientation - the pictures on the Sunwayfoto site suggest you have to stand at 90 degrees to where the camera is facing, which isn't ideal

Many thanks
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The 3LT L bracket (Roxie) that's built specifically for the R5/R6 is a one piece L bracket so I can't common on the two piece ones.

If you scroll through the photos on 3LT's website for the Roxie L bracket you will see how movement is affected. It can move between flat and 45 degrees. You can see the screen as only an edge will be blocked by the L bracket.

You are being redirected...

www.3leggedthing.com

In portrait the screen movement isn't impeded as long as you don't have the area Swiss head clamp knob pointing to the back.
 
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rob-nikon said:
The 3LT L bracket (Roxie) that's built specifically for the R5/R6 is a one piece L bracket so I can't common on the two piece ones.

If you scroll through the photos on 3LT's website for the Roxie L bracket you will see how movement is affected. It can move between flat and 45 degrees. You can see the screen as only an edge will be blocked by the L bracket.

You are being redirected...

www.3leggedthing.com

In portrait the screen movement isn't impeded as long as you don't have the area Swiss head clamp knob pointing to the back.
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Thanks very much. Really appreciate it
 
taxboy said:
Bit of a question revival. Having had a look around it seems around if I may have to go for a 3LT Ellie short bracket . Could I ask a couple of questions please:

1) Are the 3LT L brackets stable ? I notice they are made in 2 sections any wobbles etc. My previous L bracket for my 7Dii was a one piece item and absolutely rock solid

2) Do you have any pictures please showing the restricted view of the screen? I appreciate I won't get full movement (my research suggests only the Promedia Gear brackets allow that) but just to show how restricted the view is. Ideally I'd like it to tilt at about 45 degrees up for landscape orientation shots so I don't have to crouch down to view the screen (getting older !) Similarly for portrait orientation - the pictures on the Sunwayfoto site suggest you have to stand at 90 degrees to where the camera is facing, which isn't ideal

Many thanks
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3LT brackets are stable, the whole thing is one piece so when you extend the vertical plate the whole thing moves. The adjustment are at the bottom where the 3/8 are. I had the vertical extended a bit to give more space when rotating LCD screen. The downside is when you use this bracket vertically you have to ensure you have the whole length secured on the plate otherwise it will wobble.

IMG_3108.JPGIMG_3109.JPGIMG_3110.JPG
 
TimHughes said:
Thanks guys, I managed to pick up a mint Canon EF version for the same price as the RF or Sigma. Looking forward to trying it out.
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The Canon 24mm f1.4 will be perfect for events :).

As a bonus, it adapts well to the GFX too, albeit with a small vignette - such a lens just does not exist for GFX so this could be interesting - Brenizer Method look in one shot.

For Astro, I'll be keeping the Samyang 24mm f1.4, as wide open for stars it performs noticeably better.
 
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TimHughes said:
The Canon 24mm f1.4 will be perfect for events :).

As a bonus, it adapts well to the GFX too, albeit with a small vignette - such a lens just does not exist for GFX so this could be interesting - Brenizer Method look in one shot.

For Astro, I'll be keeping the Samyang 24mm f1.4, as wide open for stars it performs noticeably better.
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Presumably the 24 TS-E wouldn't vignette on the GFX? And the Mk2 version is supposed to be very good.
 
Chipper said:
Digital Camera world reporting that Canon have announced delays to R6ii, RF135 and the speedlight.... no change there then!
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This seems to be the norm for any years so manufactures can say demand has out striped supply and production,...again.. !
 
Anyone here who's used the new RF 50/1.2? How do you feel it compares to the EF version?
 
py6km said:
Anyone here who's used the new RF 50/1.2? How do you feel it compares to the EF version?
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Never used the EF version unfortunately. But the RF version is a stunning lens.

Most photos I’ve took with it are of people who wouldn’t be too impressed with me sharing on here. So I can’t give any examples unfortunately….

I did have the EF 85mm II prior to having the RF version though. And I will say that the EF ones do have a unique ‘look’ to them compared to the new ones.

I assume the 50 is the same.

Even though I’ve preordered one of the new 135’s. I fully expect it to have lost the same unique look it also has compared to my EF version. But we’ll have to see…
 
Thanks, that's useful to know. Yes, I'd agree that there is a look in terms of contrast and colour rendition of the EF 1.2 lenses that's pretty special. I also remember once changing from an older (all metal) Nikon 85/1.4 to the newer version, and something was different about it. Not in a bad way, but I guess the same with the EF to RF glassand not isolated to Canon. Still my 50/1.2 has been sold now, so will be getting the RF version soon I hope. The 135/2 was another stellar optic - interested to hear how you get on with it. I've still got the 85/1.2 II - even grey prices for the new RF version are too much for me at the moment.
 
Spider with prey last night.

arachnid_feed_b_4k-XL.jpg


Paul.
 
You know, I've got some nice lenses for R6, the rf 24-70, 70-200 and I have used my ef 16-35 and 100-400 + 1.4TC loads, Borrowed an RF 85mm 1.2 a couple of times too. But the lens that's given me so much fun recently is the RF 16mm 2.8. Just take it with me wherever I go, chuck it my pocket, whatever, it's great!
 
Really unsure what to do at the moment. Both my R6's will need the shutter replaced as I'm fast approaching the 300,000 mark. Also, both hot shoes are pretty dodgy. I have no issues with the cameras, I love them, to be honest, so should I get them repaired and carry on using them, trade them in as is or 2 R6ii's, or repair and trade in for 2 R6ii.

To give some more context, I have 68 weddings, plus engagement shoots and commercial stuff next year, so i have to do something lol.
 
PDub said:
Really unsure what to do at the moment. Both my R6's will need the shutter replaced as I'm fast approaching the 300,000 mark. Also, both hot shoes are pretty dodgy. I have no issues with the cameras, I love them, to be honest, so should I get them repaired and carry on using them, trade them in as is or 2 R6ii's, or repair and trade in for 2 R6ii.

To give some more context, I have 68 weddings, plus engagement shoots and commercial stuff next year, so i have to do something lol.
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Congrats on all the bookings! If it was me, the downtime and uncertainty of the repair route would be a worry. I'd trade in for 2 new R6iis and let the camera shop deal with any repairs needed. They will quickly pay for themselves, no?
 
TimHughes said:
Congrats on all the bookings! If it was me, the downtime and uncertainty of the repair route would be a worry. I'd trade in for 2 new R6iis and let the camera shop deal with any repairs needed. They will quickly pay for themselves, no?
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Thank you. :) Yeah, the cost isn't too much of a concern, thankfully, I guess it's about which is the best route. From what i see, I'm not gaining a huge amount from the mk2 as I don't shoot video.
 
PDub said:
Really unsure what to do at the moment. Both my R6's will need the shutter replaced as I'm fast approaching the 300,000 mark. Also, both hot shoes are pretty dodgy. I have no issues with the cameras, I love them, to be honest, so should I get them repaired and carry on using them, trade them in as is or 2 R6ii's, or repair and trade in for 2 R6ii.

To give some more context, I have 68 weddings, plus engagement shoots and commercial stuff next year, so i have to do something lol.
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why not treat yourself to R3 and stop worrying about mechanical shutter ever again?
 
Not sure if I should post this one as a different thread or in here. Has anyone had any success with "Auto" tracking of a subject on the R5?

I've got a very jumpy cat (Oreo) and I love taking pictures of her jumping and doing back flips mid air. I've had (fair) success doing this in the old school way - I/e get down on the floor as low as i can, head to view finder, thumb on the focus and nailing the focus when she comes into the focus area (limited by the fact my flash sync is slow and i'm shooting >1/250th).


However last few weeks I've been trying to do this by setting the tracking to auto detect the subject, i.e no focus point mode where it picks the subject for you - but it struggles to pick up the cat - maybe because of the lack of light/contrast - i'm not sure.

I was hoping it would provide a more acurate way to pick her up and track her than my efforts trying to lie of the floor and track her using one of the other 2 tracking modes (i,e the ones where you use the normal focus point and then it locks onto the subject in that region) rather than automatically doing it all for you.

Here are a couple of me doing it manually. 5G4A9488.jpg5G4A9495.jpg

I managed to get a few to focus when using the auto, mainly the ones like the first example below but all of the jumping just couldnt pick her up then track. Any suggestions?

5G4A6279-Edit.jpg

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A_S said:
Not sure if I should post this one as a different thread or in here. Has anyone had any success with "Auto" tracking of a subject on the R5?
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Yes, for moving subjects I use it all the time in the following way:
- move the camera so the white AF square is over the subject
- press the AF-on button on the back to start tracking

I can't remember if I needed to customize the AF-ON button. In the customize menu 3 you can customize the buttons. AF-ON is set to "metering and AF start" on my camera.

Hope this helps!
 
A_S said:
Not sure if I should post this one as a different thread or in here. Has anyone had any success with "Auto" tracking of a subject on the R5?

I've got a very jumpy cat (Oreo) and I love taking pictures of her jumping and doing back flips mid air. I've had (fair) success doing this in the old school way - I/e get down on the floor as low as i can, head to view finder, thumb on the focus and nailing the focus when she comes into the focus area (limited by the fact my flash sync is slow and i'm shooting >1/250th).


However last few weeks I've been trying to do this by setting the tracking to auto detect the subject, i.e no focus point mode where it picks the subject for you - but it struggles to pick up the cat - maybe because of the lack of light/contrast - i'm not sure.

I was hoping it would provide a more acurate way to pick her up and track her than my efforts trying to lie of the floor and track her using one of the other 2 tracking modes (i,e the ones where you use the normal focus point and then it locks onto the subject in that region) rather than automatically doing it all for you.

Here are a couple of me doing it manually. View attachment 374323View attachment 374324

I managed to get a few to focus when using the auto, mainly the ones like the first example below but all of the jumping just couldnt pick her up then track. Any suggestions?

View attachment 374326

View attachment 374327
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nice cat.

Manual is clearly the way to go. These are clearly very difficult conditions for the camera. Black cat against black furniture in a very dark and pretty much backlit room. You can't really complain for an early stage ai failing to get it. There is no need to in fact. And it's not like the black dog I was trying it on in a blazing sunshine and it still failed. That's a bit of a flashback.

Fairly plain backdrop, longish lens is how I would approach it every time. Proper studio lights with modelling leds would help with focusing as well as properly lighting and freezing the motion. Or just pick 200mm and go outdoors in daytime. It's just so much easier.
 
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TimHughes said:
Yes, for moving subjects I use it all the time in the following way:
- move the camera so the white AF square is over the subject
- press the AF-on button on the back to start tracking

I can't remember if I needed to customize the AF-ON button. In the customize menu 3 you can customize the buttons. AF-ON is set to "metering and AF start" on my camera.

Hope this helps!
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Thanks - this sounds like the way I have been doing it but I’ve been trying to switch it to the fully auto mode - which removes the white square or rather the camera dictates where the white square is. The camera chooses the subject and no focus point is used. All I need to do is press af-on once the camera picks up the subject (but it’s not picking up the subject).

The plan being to have the camera static and release with a remote shutter so I don’t have to have my chin and elbows on the floor!

D52142D0-679E-4748-BEEF-8D730F531168.png
 
A_S said:
Thanks - this sounds like the way I have been doing it but I’ve been trying to switch it to the fully auto mode - which removes the white square or rather the camera dictates where the white square is. The camera chooses the subject and no focus point is used. All I need to do is press af-on once the camera picks up the subject (but it’s not picking up the subject).

The plan being to have the camera static and release with a remote shutter so I don’t have to have my chin and elbows on the floor!

View attachment 374367
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Ah ok, got it. In this case, also check your "subject to detect" in menu 1 is set to "animal"

This is not a mode I'd trust to be 100% reliable, but worth a try for sure.
 
TimHughes said:
Ah ok, got it. In this case, also check your "subject to detect" in menu 1 is set to "animal"

This is not a mode I'd trust to be 100% reliable, but worth a try for sure.
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Yes done that and tried a few of the tracking sensitivity options like instantly focus on things entering the focus point etc but still struggling

Worked very well with an active dog on the beach and to an extent with cars but the cat maybe too quick for this method!
 
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