Canon EOS R Series Cameras

Recently got the R5ii after about 3 years of using other brands, i forgot how loud the IBIS is in the EOS R system cameras, especially the R5ii, in a quiet room it is very noticeable.
Are you an owl? A cat perhaps?
 
Quick one. I tend to use Fv Mode quite a lot now, flexibility mainly, so i dont have to keep changing modes. Not sure its FV specific but I am slightly confused about Canon's metering... on my 85 1.4 i tend to shoot at the smaller F numbers but my camera seems to meter for the lowest ISO possible, so I'll be focusing on getting the shot on an effective AV with auto ISO and Auto shutter but my camera seems to think i want to shoot at ISO-100 1/100s and F1.4.... I've missed so many shots since I got it because of this... Its at a point where I have to compensate for it and make sure I concider it and set my shutter manually, not a problem when I remember but when i forget... had it a few more times at the weekend.

Any suggestions on why and how to avoid? (other than the obvious shoot manual, move off auto ISO etc...) just seems a bit wierd as to why it does this?
 
Quick one. I tend to use Fv Mode quite a lot now, flexibility mainly, so i dont have to keep changing modes. Not sure its FV specific but I am slightly confused about Canon's metering... on my 85 1.4 i tend to shoot at the smaller F numbers but my camera seems to meter for the lowest ISO possible, so I'll be focusing on getting the shot on an effective AV with auto ISO and Auto shutter but my camera seems to think i want to shoot at ISO-100 1/100s and F1.4.... I've missed so many shots since I got it because of this... Its at a point where I have to compensate for it and make sure I concider it and set my shutter manually, not a problem when I remember but when i forget... had it a few more times at the weekend.

Any suggestions on why and how to avoid? (other than the obvious shoot manual, move off auto ISO etc...) just seems a bit wierd as to why it does this?
It sounds like the Canon Fv logic is trying to get the lowest ISO for hand-held static subjects. Try increasing the minimum shutter speed setting?
 
Quick one. I tend to use Fv Mode quite a lot now, flexibility mainly, so i dont have to keep changing modes. Not sure its FV specific but I am slightly confused about Canon's metering... on my 85 1.4 i tend to shoot at the smaller F numbers but my camera seems to meter for the lowest ISO possible, so I'll be focusing on getting the shot on an effective AV with auto ISO and Auto shutter but my camera seems to think i want to shoot at ISO-100 1/100s and F1.4.... I've missed so many shots since I got it because of this... Its at a point where I have to compensate for it and make sure I concider it and set my shutter manually, not a problem when I remember but when i forget... had it a few more times at the weekend.

Any suggestions on why and how to avoid? (other than the obvious shoot manual, move off auto ISO etc...) just seems a bit wierd as to why it does this?
If I’ve understood your question correctly (I don’t know what fv mode is).

You can set a minimum shutter speed for auto iso. That way you never get inappropriate shutter speeds. Mines set at 1/250. And if I need higher than that I choose TV and select my shutter speed (usually for sports)
 
Quick one. I tend to use Fv Mode quite a lot now, flexibility mainly, so i dont have to keep changing modes. Not sure its FV specific but I am slightly confused about Canon's metering... on my 85 1.4 i tend to shoot at the smaller F numbers but my camera seems to meter for the lowest ISO possible, so I'll be focusing on getting the shot on an effective AV with auto ISO and Auto shutter but my camera seems to think i want to shoot at ISO-100 1/100s and F1.4.... I've missed so many shots since I got it because of this... Its at a point where I have to compensate for it and make sure I concider it and set my shutter manually, not a problem when I remember but when i forget... had it a few more times at the weekend.

Any suggestions on why and how to avoid? (other than the obvious shoot manual, move off auto ISO etc...) just seems a bit wierd as to why it does this?
Sounds like it leads to frustration and missed shots. It is so quick to change iso with the wheel. Stay in av like everyone else who needs consistent results and all will be fine
 
Sounds like it leads to frustration and missed shots. It is so quick to change iso with the wheel. Stay in av like everyone else who needs consistent results and all will be fine
I think a lot depends on what you are shooting. I find it very useful for bird photography; I set the max aperture and desired shutter speed letting the iso float with auto iso. It allows you to quickly use the exposure compensation with one wheel adjustment for black / white birds
 
me too @taxboy - but when I am doing candid racing stuff, and one minute I want to poke the camera into a car and the next I want to be shooting backlit into the sun as a car comes into the pits or something i want the camera to control the speed to avoid under exposure or hitting ISO 12500 etc, or blowing the hilights at the other extreme and that can happen, if I say sat a shutter speed of 1/500 - even that a median value. Its just that when I let the camera choose the shutter it inadvertantly picks 1/100 or 1/125 which for people moving, celebrating, changing wheels etc is just not fast enough, and not needed if its metering for ISO-100......
 
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me too @taxboy - but when I am doing candid racing stuff, and one minute I want to poke the camera into a car and the next I want to be shooting backlit into the sun as a car comes into the pits or something i want the camera to control the speed to avoid under exposure or hitting ISO 12500 etc, if I say sat a shutter speed of 1/500, which has happened. Its just that when I let the camera choose the shutter it inadvertantly picks 1/100 or 1/125 which for people moving, celebrating, changing wheels etc is just not fast enough, and not needed if its metering for ISO-100......
Try custom settings?
Alternatively, reconsider, as you mentioned before, manual mode with auto iso as this gives control of both shutter speed and aperture.
 
me too @taxboy - but when I am doing candid racing stuff, and one minute I want to poke the camera into a car and the next I want to be shooting backlit into the sun as a car comes into the pits or something i want the camera to control the speed to avoid under exposure or hitting ISO 12500 etc, or blowing the hilights at the other extreme and that can happen, if I say sat a shutter speed of 1/500 - even that a median value. Its just that when I let the camera choose the shutter it inadvertantly picks 1/100 or 1/125 which for people moving, celebrating, changing wheels etc is just not fast enough, and not needed if its metering for ISO-100......
I think you are expecting too much from the camera as effectively you are asking it to think about how you want to photograph a subject. I'd imagine the algorithm leans towards giving a low iso without dropping the shutter speed too low.
As you've stated 1/100 isn't fast enough for your needs but the camera can't know that - that's your creative choice. I'd suggest leaving the shutter speed control being the live control in Fv so you can quickly spin the wheel to take control of the camera doesn't give what you want
 
In my defence it all does happen very quickly!

Maybe I've just become too used to it coping with situations, not being used to having F1.4 though, as my old 50mm 1.4 just wasn't quick enough focusing to use in these situations. So, I'd always be controlling the shutter on an F2.8 lens as the F stop was the limiting factor. 9/10 the camera would leave it at 2.8, maybe 3.2 or 4 - which i guess is what its doing here with the shutter...

Just learning that something with a lot more light requires different technique maybe - I just thought there must be a setting somewhere that would limit how low it would go or whether other people had experienced similar behaviour - Custom settings is a good idea.
 
bought my first RF lens today to go my my R5 , an STM 50 1.8
Didn’t actually have a 50 mm lens so I thought I may as well get the RF version
Seems decent for a budget lens and its nice how close it can focus
 
I've been looking for a camera (mostly for wildlife/birds) and decided on the EOS R7 and Canon RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM which seem to tick all the boxes, dedicated bird-in-flight recognition, ok in low light and just about fits into the budget.

Question is if I go with the above lens and body, should I just get the body, or the body with the RF-S 18-150mm STM Lens? Body only is £799 at Cotswold, plus lens is £1,039 currently. I would also take landscape shots I think when walking in the Lakes and Yorkshire Dales.
 
Only you can answer the question if the bundled lens is worth £240 to you.
 
Hi Canon folks - can you help me please with any thoughts on the following:

I'm a long time user of Sony's RX10iv which I very largely use for casual wildlife shooting (mainly birds) - I was pondering replacing it with an R10 and 100-400. Relevant factors I can think of:
1. Size and weight should be similar (I cannot be bothered lugging something big and heavy around)
2. Both lenses are sharp at the long end
3. The RX10iv does F4 at 600mm equivalent but the R10 should be far better at high iso so a draw I think in terms of low light (neither are great I know)
4. Slightly more reach for the Canon (640eqv vs 600eqv)
5. More pixels on the Canon for cropping (20mp on the Sony's 1 inch sensor vs 24mp on the apsc Canon)
6. Neither are going to win a smooth bokeh competition so not a deal breaker
7. The focusing is probably better on the Canon I would guess?
8. Big plus is that the 100-400 can do a decent macro which I also enjoy and the Sony is not great at (potentially with a Raynox)
9. The minus is the loss of the wide end but I rarely use it on the RX10iv and would probably pick up a 10-18
10. The Sony has been great but it's getting long in the tooth and with no replacement in sight I'm probably going to have to change at some point

I've got also an Olympus OM1 with a wide angle and a macro lens so it feels like there's an opportunity for some rationalisation there and I could get down to one body and two lenses...

Any thoughts/views would be welcome :)
 
Are there any other users of the RF45mm?

I bought one on a whim in HoChiMinh week before last, not much of a saving on UK grey import price, but being able to walk out of the shop with it was a treat.

I’ve probably only shot about 10 frames with it so far, and they’re not downloaded yet.
Have you had a chance to play with your copy of the 45 much Phil?

I pulled the trigger at the beginning of the month and I've had the opportunity to use it in anger a couple of times now, specifically shooting people.
It certainly seems sharp enough where I want it to be and I've used it at a fair range of apertures to see how it behaves.
 
Have you had a chance to play with your copy of the 45 much Phil?

I pulled the trigger at the beginning of the month and I've had the opportunity to use it in anger a couple of times now, specifically shooting people.
It certainly seems sharp enough where I want it to be and I've used it at a fair range of apertures to see how it behaves.
I’ve only had a go once, took some pics of one of the grandkids.
But I’ve not even had time to download the files.
 
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