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  1. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    I think you’re right about the sheet being loaded with the emulsion side facing the holder in the SP-445. I’m going to shoot some more sheets tomorrow now that I’ve modified the holders to remove the centre of them entirely
     
  2. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    That’s odd, it should just open iTunes and play. You can search for the Sunny16 Podcast in iTunes direct otherwise. Episode 70 is the latest one.
     
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  3. excalibur2

    excalibur2 Loretta

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    Brian
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    Well on my PC I clicked on your link and it asks me what to open with and I say itunes.exe and I just get the itunes page with a lot of stuff I'm not interested in :rolleyes: dunno about podcast I'm not into that. Anyway my grandson is a whizz kid on his i-phone (and now pc) and I'll let him sort it out.(y)
     
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  4. simon ess

    simon ess

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    Nice shout out for the TPF&C Massive.

    :)
     
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  5. wontolla

    wontolla Misery Guts Monica

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    I'm not a Misery Guts and Monica is not my Moniker
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    Me neither!
     
  6. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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  7. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Got to give a nod to where the idea came from/who to blame ;0)
     
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  8. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    In designing the camera around the idea of streamlining the assembly, I wanted to move away from full bonded parts or heat-set threads as they're both time consuming and fiddly. I was looking for a relatively simple fixing nut that didn't stick out the back of the standard too far but meant that I can bolt the laminations together without needing extra assembly work beforehand. As a result, I came across Rivnuts that are designed for fitting threads into sheet material.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    By design, they push through the front face of the sheet and have a 1mm flange around the end to hold them flush. You would then use a threaded tool to screw into them and compress the fluted section from behind the sheet to clamp it in place. By flipping them around the other way and slotting them in from the back of my parts, I've got a ready made internal thread with a neat 1mm flange on the rear face which gives me a dry connection :) As well as simplifying the assembly, it also means that I can separate the parts if I want to for repair/upgrade down the line without having to break bonded faces etc.

    I've had to enlarge the holes on the rear laminations to take the rivnut but apart from that I haven't had to make any other changes. I'll still have to countersink the front face but with a bench drill that will be quick and easy. I've also ordered a selection of black countersunk hex head bolts in different lengths so they blend in much better with the acrylic faces.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2017
  9. excalibur2

    excalibur2 Loretta

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    Brian
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    Your instructions don't work for me i.e. "To listen to an audio podcast, mouse over the title and click Play" erm no play showing so I click on "view in itunes" by using itunes.exe and get to itunes page..from there "subscribe to podcast" then copy and paste url then select "feed" ? and can't hear anything :rolleyes:
     
  10. ChrisR

    ChrisR

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    Do you have your hearing aid in, Brian? :D:D:D
     
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  11. acs

    acs

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    Don't have iTunes for Windows (though it is a free download) but does play OK in the Apple podcast app; however, I did have to search for sunny-16 and select the first result in the list... Ep. 70
     
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  12. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Hey, who knew. It turns out that LF film works much better when it’s loaded in the holder the right way round...in my defence, I’m an idiot.

    I’ve also removed the centre of the SP-445 holder and was a bit more forceful with the agitation and the development is spot on.

    IMG_9014.JPG

    IMG_9017.JPG

    I’ve got a slight light leak on the sides but I know what that is so I’ll fit an extra seal.

    IMG_9020.JPG

    Fomopan 100 of unknown heritage, shot at iso 80, f45 1/8th (150mm)
     
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  13. Terrywoodenpic

    Terrywoodenpic

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    There is a little bit of fogging coming in from the sides and top, that needs investigating.
     
  14. Andysnap

    Andysnap POTY (Film) 2015

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    Andy Grant
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    It might be the film, it was very, very old, stuck together and generally knackered. I used a couple of sheets before sending it o to Steve and I had similar issues, however it might still be worth shooting a sheet of known provenance just to make sure.
     
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  15. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Yup

    "I’ve got a slight light leak on the sides but I know what that is so I’ll fit an extra seal." ;)

    I'm blaming Andy's dodgy film stock...that I'm very grateful for!

    I've just done a torch test all over the camera and can see that the light is coming in from the front bellows plate. I re-used this set of bellows from a previous build and sandwiched a second plate to the front of it for the updated fixings. When I made the bellows, I wasn't fully happy with dimensions on the front so ended up bonding two sides to the rear of the plate and two sides to the front of the plate. As a result, when that was sandwiched to another plate there are a few small places where it's not a complete seal....so again, my fault!

    With the proper bellows they will be light tight and bonded direct to the rear of the plate.
     
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  16. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Funnily enough, now I put the two sheets together that I've shot, the fogging on them both is exactly the same....strangely, I shot both images from different parts of the house and different times of the day so the light was coming from a different direction. Hmmmm

    Next test, develop a fresh sheet without shooting it in the camera and see if it's got the same fogging.

    I've just received a box of Quickload Velvia 50 off @Strappy so am cutting a second back for the Chroma to use a Quickload holder. I can't wait to shoot some slide!
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2017
  17. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Another random request for advice...

    Can someone with a Linhof Technica lens board measure it please and confirm the size/thickness? From looking around I thought they were 96x93x2mm but I've seen someone else say 99x96mm?

    Cheers
    Steve
     
  18. Nomad Z

    Nomad Z

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    Same as a Shen Hao lens board. 96 wide, 99 high, 2mm thick. The notches and chamfered corners go to the bottom
     
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  19. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Thanks for confirming that. I’ll have a look at modifying my standard to accommodate them.
     
  20. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Could you also tell me how wide the chamfered corners are? (How far in from the edge do they come in)
     
  21. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    I’ve just reorganised my Office/workshop before decorating and grabbed a quick Chroma “family portrait”!

    Image1507485783.759584.jpg
     
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  22. Nod

    Nod Kronus

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    Cat------------------->Pigeons!

    I rather like the brass screw heads against the purple acrylic with the orange bellows.

    Makes me wish I had the patience for LF but I'm all too aware of my shortcomings.
     
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  23. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    To be honest, I quite like the mix of traditional brass and modern purple/orange too but I think the black bolts I’ve got now are more subtle.

    I’m waiting on a sample of a new material to come in the post before I build another set of bellows. Should still be able to make them in a range of colours though :0)
     
  24. StephenM

    StephenM

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    Purple and orange camera and you're talking about subtle? :D
     
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  25. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    'subtle' is a relative term ;0)
     
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  26. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    This will be the next interchangeable back for the Chroma :0)

    IMG_9064.JPG

    The standard back is almost perfect except for removing the 5mm wide bar across the top to allow the Quickload holder to fit flush.
     
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  27. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Just to add to the previous post with my Quickload back, I’m also working on this one;

    IMG_9130.JPG

    IMG_9131.JPG

    It will take standard 4x5 aluminium and glass plates and uses the same mount points as the ground glass holder :0)

    I’m also re-designing the front standard slightly to accept Linhof-Wista style lensboards as well as my acrylic boards. I’m going away on holiday next Tuesday so will be launching the Kickstarter campaign when I get back
     
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  28. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg

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    Glass plates in a plastic camera! Fantastic. You going to offer a few dozen plastic plates cut to size?
     
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  29. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    I’m not sure how well Acrylic would work with collodion but you know I’m going to have to find out now! It was Sam Cornwell (Solarcan) who asked me about wet plate so I’m blaming him :0)
     
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  30. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg

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    I'm sure with your contacts you could get some alu cut to size cheap enough.
     
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  31. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg

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    Looks like some one has tried it at least.
    http://www.wetplatesupplies.com/black-acrylic-5x4-pack-of-12.html
     
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  32. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Ok, I’ve got an answer off Sam. It works with a plastic plate but not ideal when it comes to heating to put the shellac on!

    Like you say, I’d stick to aluminium!
     
  33. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg

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    Makes sense. Black tin types are what I'd really like to have a shot at but its so much more difficult and thats before finding someone to sit infront of the camera for an hour!
     
  34. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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  35. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg

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    Do you need somewhere to clamp it down or some such?
     
  36. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    Do you mean to clamp the plate inside the holder on the camera m?
     
  37. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg

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    Dunno really, its just occurred to me I've no idea how the back end works for plates.
     
  38. simon ess

    simon ess

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    This is just getting cooler and cooler.

    Silly question time.

    Would it be possible or worth it to make a plate holder for a medium format camera?

    E.G. Bronica SQ
     
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  39. stevelmx5

    stevelmx5

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    From what I’ve seen, the plate just needs to be pressed in flat like a sheet of film so I’ll hinge the rear cover and have a screw down clamp. The cover can then be opened in a dark bag, the plate dropped in then the cover can be closed back over and locked in place. Simple (not that I’ve ever shot wet plate but you know...)
     
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  40. StephenM

    StephenM

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    The VP Exakta of the 1930s had this facility (on some models). The practical difficulty from an operational point of view was that the plate couldn't sit in the same plane as the film, and hence needed special lenses to be able to focus (which had to be done view camera style on a ground glass.
     

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